| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
Put a hundred miles on it before you do adjustments. Given the state of your Blast a primary/clutch check/adjustment will be in order, eventually. You just cut the ends of the grips off for bar ends. Oil change takes 1 1/2 qts. 1.5 is it. Check the oil only when hot. Backfires usually mean lean. Could be boot or carb nipple or just adjustment. Fly screen brackets bend easy. The seat latch POST is adjustable. Undo the jam it and use a screwdriver to turn the post. They strip easy, loosen and tighten carefully. Someone will happily trade that tall seat for a low seat!! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The repair manual specs need an INCH POUND torque wrench that goes to 24 INCH lbs NOT foot pounds. Huge difference. The repair manual primary adjustment method is fine just go 12-18 'flats' instead of the 7 flats the manual says (waaaay too tight). EZ will say something like 25 to a million flats out, but I disagree. Either way, 12-25 will get you in the ballpark to adjust by ear and a reference point to go back to. You'll do the primary/clutch when you change the trans fluid (takes exactly 1 quart-use synthetic). | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Turn signals can be fixed with electrical tape, sometimes. They can also be modified. The longer ones also come apart so you can shorten them. You might need to be creative, but I don't think glue will work. | ||
| Bhdooo |
That's pretty nice that it came as a kit and fit perfectly! It appears to be out of stock unfortunately, also I saw ez's with the trimmed superbike ones, I'm digging that for the time being. https://imgur.com/hXsc9Si That slot right there that i boxed, the latch on the bike doesn't quite make it. Do i just tighten that latch? So i guess i spoke too soon. I loctited the spark plug, making sure to use only a little bit on the tip that unscrews. On the cold start it didn't start up without starter fluid, and would back fire and die without throttle since the revs dropped. I do need to note that the other day, when warm it would start right up with the first press of the button. Superboots really need to get back in stock... (Message edited by bhdooo on August 02, 2016) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
No picture :-( Look under the seat. The little penis lookin thing unscrews after you loosen the jam nut. Check Das Boot! | ||
| Bhdooo |
https://imgur.com/hXsc9Si Hmmm just wasnt activated? Anyways your description is definitely of what I highlighted | ||
| Wrightd223 |
I am able to click on the link, and it looks like it is threaded so thats probably where to adjust it. If I remember I will try and do it on my bike. I never have trouble latching mine, unless the bike lock I store under my seat is turned a certain way and is too tall. Also make sure you insert the front end of the seat under the gas tank area first, then push the back down. There is a part on the front seat that is supposed to slide in first. Mine doesn't have this, and I don't mind it at all, but I bet if you don't slide the front part of the seat in the watch probably wouldn't reach the nub on the bottom of the seat. | ||
| Bhdooo |
Seat latches on now. Under power it feels nice and smooth, but letting off the throttle it backfires. Seems like the the boot from everything I've read. Those superboots really can't be made quick enough :-\ https://vid.me/YFYN | ||
| Ezblast |
Check air mixture screw as well. If stock - should be 2 turns out, aftermarket exhaust - 2 2/3 turns out. EZ | ||
| Wrightd223 |
General question about that kinda stuff, if you do the drilled hole in the stock exaust mod, do you basically still consider it stock for those type of things? Like to you have to rejet the carb and things like that, or can you get away with not doing those things? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Rejet is the same 45 slow, 170 main(stock jet). Shimming the needle almost always helps. | ||
| Ezblast |
Drilling the plug is easy, lol - the rest is harder, but not difficult. Drilling the hole in the exhaust is the hardest part. EZ | ||
| Bhdooo |
Dan finally sent me an email! So I'm ordering a superboot. Going to get a air mixture screw as well in case I mess up drilling the plug... But my follow up question is this. I understand that the airbox mod now basically means I attach an outerwear filter to the airbox where I would've originally cut. I want to to do this due to my plans of keeping my airbox for support as well as using it as a catchcan. However does this really filter the air as well as a KN? As I think the overall goal I'm reaching for is a mixture of reliability improvements with modest power gains, my concern is the how effective the filter is. I live in socal if that helps... | ||
| Bhdooo |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/712067.html?1379123883 What is that thing on the carb in this thread? Looks interesting. | ||
| Ezblast |
https://thunderproducts.com/shop/boyesen-power-x-w ing/ or you can make your own using a torque stack - http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/6812.html?1462159418 http://speeddealercustoms.com/product/harley-cv-ca rb-velocity-stack-black/ Call outerwears.com for Blast Stack Filter, use hose clamp to apply it - easy deal - all around. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
No, an Outerwears filter will not filter as well as a K&N. Will it likely hurt your engine? Probably not. | ||
| Bhdooo |
Dan actually stocks the outerwear if I'm not mistaken. He also sends it with velcro. Would the x-wing diy or not fit inside the airbox? I can definitely see that not working with Dan's intake mod... (Message edited by bhdooo on August 12, 2016) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
That's good, because getting the wrong sock will cause you problems, big problems. I know nothing about the "snake oil" X wing or atomizers or whatever. Not saying they don't work, they just aren't conventional and some "add-ons" are purely theoretical. So I'm no help there. | ||
| Bhdooo |
Got a superboot, ez mixture screw, and an outerwears coming inbound. Will update accordingly. | ||
| Ezblast |
Actually filters particulate down to .025 which is fine. Oil may or may not get dirty a bit sooner - depends on how much dirt is in your air - lol - I change mine every two to three thousand miles anyway. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Oh - and I'll say these days 25 flats out and if no sound change then you are perfect! EZ | ||
| Bhdooo |
I live in socal, and actually in an area really close to me has been having the worst smog days in awhile. Regardless I'm just going to be really on it when it comes to maintaining my blast. Its actually my first true vehicle purchase with no help, so my baby for real. I may have only ridden it twice but good lord is it intoxicating. I just want to ride... | ||
| Ezblast |
Totally got ya - go ride! EZ | ||
| Bhdooo |
Haven't installed the superboot yet. So I haven't actually seen it yet but was wondering how exactly to install it. I'm going to assume that I need to remove the airbox, and the carb? Anything else? While doing so I plan on shimming my needle, installing my ez mixture screw, and making my leftover charcoal canister hose plug routing more tidy. | ||
| Bhdooo |
So I tried installing the superboot and it was a mixed bag. Needed to give it a bit of throttle at first and eventually it would start idling. But the carb would start leaking fuel. Happened while idling and also after bike was shut off. My reading seems to imply the float would be getting stuck? Eventually the superboot and carb even popped off and is now just hanging there... I know how to adjust the throttle cables but I still haven't discovered what it should be adjusted to. Also with the ez air mix screw. Is the bottom when I literally screw it all the way in? It is possible that when the plug was drilled out there were still bits that could give resistance sooner. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
EZ mix screw is the same as the stock screw: it has a washer, spring and O-ring on it. The spring gives it resistance. And it should be tightened all the down, LIGHTLY bottoming before adjustment. If you haven't taken the carb apart, then the float is probably stuck. A few raps with a screwdriver handle on the float bowl should in stock it. If the carb came off, you didn't have it on right. | ||
| Bhdooo |
I took the carb off to put a plug and shim the needle. So the mixture screw should have the oring first, spring, then washer then carb? I need to recheck it to make sure it bottoms out properly and that I didn't lose any of that. My boot install went like this. 1 remove airbox 2 disconnect throttle cables 3 disconnected deutsch connecter 4 disconnect fuel line 5 take off hose clamps from original boot 6 slide superboot onto bike 7 shove carb into other end of boot. 8 Tighten clamp 9.reconnect everything. The superboot is still attached to the carb. And not gonna lie it was a pain to get everything slid into the rubber. Totally had to take off clamp. Where did i go wrong? | ||
| Ezblast |
You can do that with out taking off air box - sigh...patience. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes, when placed onto the screw it should be spring, washer o-ring. The o-ring should be next to the washer so the screw and spring can turn without messing up the o-ring b I've never even seen a super boot, so I couldn't tell you. But I do know it should never ever come off that easy. | ||
| Bhdooo |
What would constitute fair pricing for the buell soft bags, windscreen and low seat? |
