| Author | Message | ||
     Garlic_sauce |
Whats up guys I just changed my front bearings and the napa ones I used aren't as wide as the stock bearings. I noticed this when i tapped the first one in but thought F it I don't think it matters. The problem is though is that the fork spacers aren't flush with the inner race of the bearing. Now, can I just add some washers/spacers or should I take the bearings out and get the right ones? Other than the width the bearings fit perfectly. Thanks. | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
I forgot to mention the space is about 1/8 on each side. | ||
| Indybuell |
I'd take em out. But that's just me. You don't want to be putting them in / taking them out, as the hole they go in will eventually begin to loosen up. | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
Is this the general consensus? I'd really hate to take them out and through them away and buy new ones. No offense Indy but what do y'all think? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Probably fine. Theres should be enough 'wiggle room' in the sliding spacer to take care of the difference. See how it fits. Without spacers (as long as everything fits okay) you'll be offset in the front end, a little, not enough to really notice. Spacers would make it perfect and the wheel bearings may not last as long (wether that measured in feet or miles I dont know). As Indy said, pulling them will wear the hole. I'd leave well enough alone. PS you may want to post the part number for future reference. Also, was it a direct crossover, a matched fit or ? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Thread moved to the KV section under wheels, tires, etc. | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
OK cool. They were a matched fit with the bearings still in the wheel. I had just had the tires changed when I noticed the bad bearing. I meant 1/8 INCH on both sides LOL, sorry about that. I will just cut and sand some pipe to make the spacers. BTW anyone know the OD of the front axle off hand? Thanks. | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
P/N: NAPA Bearing 6203-2RSJ. | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
Got my spacers. I slid the end of the stock handlebars over the axle and it lines up perfectly with the inner race of the bearings! I just need to measure and cut em and I'm done. I knew those bars had to be good for something.  | ||
| Ezblast |
What is the size of the front ball bearings? Anyone know? If I didn't want to use stock, a generic number would be nice. EZ | ||
| Reuel |
The front bearings are an oddball size, single race. I found a source for some at about $7 each, but I'd have to order 5000. You can get a dual race version that's 1/16" wider, which means you could use them if you wanted to modify things by 1/16" on each side. I thought about it, but never got past the thought. | ||
| Ezblast |
Here you go folks - I found the generic number for the front bearings My stock bearings from 2003 are 62203-2RS1 SKF bearings from Italy. Dimensions on said bearing d: 17 mm D: 40 mm W: 16 mm rear - 6204 2rs I'm thinking maybe ceramic - damn things have a higher tensile than steel now days - thanks to NASA. EZ | ||
| Delslo1986 |
Here is a site with the odd sized front wheel bearings http://bearingsdirect.com/store/index.php?l=produc t_detail&p=839 | ||
| Monzaracer |
SO THIS IS A NEW FIX I HAVE WORKED ON FOR BLASTS! BUT FIRST SOME INFO ON CLUTCH CABLES! Well I decide to ride one day and feel crinkle of bad clutch cable ,,,so looked for new aftermarket, ordered, wrong free length, called Motion Pro, sent new ,right one, free length by the way 3 1/2 works great(First Motion Pro came in at 2.9 in free length, didnt work). (This ones just for our info now on to new fix!) So now back to riding over hot part of summer and lost one of the front wheel brgs. SO HERE IS WHAT I DUG UP ON BEARINGS: From local bearing place the factory 17 idx40odx16 width is a 4203-2rs EUROPEAN metric bearing. Now some say use a 6203-2rsj yet all I find are 12 mm wide and decrease load rating. NOW Ducati DID use use a 62203-2rs1 in the rear of specific bikes and replaced them with 12 mm wide 6203 and new spacers. SO I go looking for a different bearing, something that I DONT have to pay $55 for aftermarket, or wait a week or so from HD, IF near an HD shop and will work with me. So next best alternative would be use a 5203-2rs, its a 17.5 millimeter wide bearing which would put wheel off set by 0.060" or 1.5mm. After weighing all my options I am torn, stock single row brg, or the 5203 and make it fit, mill wheel or fork to allow for wider bearing on right side. Left isnt issue as spacer WILL move and bolt had plenty of thread left. So here is what I intend to do I am going to mill the bearing seating ledge in right side of wheel by 0.060" reduce internal sleeve appropriate amount to maintain proper side loading of bearing and install 5203-2rs bearings. I can order generic bearings for 9.95 ea on www.vxb.com ,,,Nagachi premium bearings for $26.88 each. Locally I can get them for $38.70 plus shipping. Now another bunch of info on these: 5203-2NSL specs Dynamic load rating Cr: 15,000 N Static load rating Cor: 9,250 N Limiting Speed: Grease Lubrication: 12,000 RPM And its DOUBLE ROW ball bearing No specs on 4203-2RS supposedly available from SKF but salty Just for reverence: 6203-2RS 6203-2RS1 specs Dynamic load rating Cr: 9,550 N Static load rating Cor: 4,800 N Limiting Speed: Grease Lubrication: 12,000 RPM So for maybe an hour of set up time I will get a higher load rated bearing as in double in Static and say 1/3rd increase in Dynamic load. The mods are minimal and honestly I can pick up a couple of machine washers in 0.060" with appropriate hole size to go back together with regular bearings from HD later on. My thing is that this is going on 2013, federal law states manufacturers maintain specific stocks of critical parts for 10 yrs as demand calls for (ie they keep parts for about 5 and then let qty diminish and only refill if needed). Blasts where last made in 09, sooo parts may get odd. I will pick up wheels as funds allow, mod them and try to spruce them up for this mod and provide them for sale. Also included will be proper washers to reinstall old style brgs later on if wanted. BUT I hope this eliminated the need to ever replace them again for long time,,besides I got 17k out the one that went bad,,yeah only ONE went bad. Oh and wheels I mod WILL be marked as will the bearing spacers. I also intend to make sure spacer is precision width to hopefully alleviate any undue side loading of bearings up on axle torquing. Outer spacers should NOT need any mods. I also will, once I get everything in order and on road and tested for while, offer this mod for peoples wheels and provide service bearings if needed. If it looks good and my engineer gives me thumbs up on testing I have three different ceramic versions possible but pricey. Just depends. Lee PS if this need s to be moved who ever moves it feel free too but I would like to know where it went . (Message edited by MonzaRacer on July 20, 2012) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
FWIW: Just because a Blast wheel bearing feels "rough" doesnt necessarily mean its bad or needs to be replaced. They get that way from sitting around and it happened often as we'd rotate wheels on and off the raceBlast. But they were track tested under harsh conditions and always came out spinning just fine. FWIW. Thanks for sharing your bearing story. Maybe if you can trim the fluff out of it and stick to just facts we could post it as information. No offense, its just a real long read as it is. | ||
| Monzaracer |
Well I was letting people kind of know that I had other issues. Guess I should have broken it up a bit. AS for the bearing being rough, when it move side to side, feels rough riding and falls apart driving it out and had mucho shards inside wheel but no wheel damage..Its bad,,,but only one was "bad" other is smooth and fairly tight. According to my engineer friend, while I havent seen the factory 4203-2RS load specs he is estimating about a 20% increase in bearing load capacity with dual race roller bearings over stocker. AND according to some a 6203 will work but he gave me finite element analysis on it over the 4203 and the 5203 and the failure estimate (remember its only a computer generated analysis and we only have load of bike, weight of rider and speed involved oh and side load from cornering he allowed for) is the 6203 MIGHT last 10k miles if average of 4203 is 15k miles, but IF general failure of factory bearing is 15k to 17 k then the 5203 should go roughly 50k miles with little to no issues. It is a stretch as my bearings wont be in for a bit BUT being able to order a lot of bearing at once ,,and if wheel mod isnt too hard I might be able to sell/swap other peoples wheels. Also I am going to take wheel in and see what local powdercoat would be. They have a nice silver with clear overlay that is supposed to hold up well on intakes. May see what wheels look like. | ||
| Monzaracer |
Well new bearings are in, machining the wheel was fun but the right side bearing sits flush, the left sticks out the extra 0.060 of its width. I used a valve grinding machine too reduce the inner spacer width. Actually went together easy, Got to ride it about 30 seconds before the rain started. Probably no more than sprinkles but really didnt want to ride without my jacket or helmet in rain. BUT it felt just like before and I can order new bearings from www.vxb.com for 9.99 each and have them here,,, and shipping is cheap if your not in hurry. Ill let everyone know just how it works out after some miles. | ||
| Monzaracer |
Bearing going strong still, but need to recover seat, get new rear tire, possibly front due too wear on rear Michellin gold class 140/70, new Michellin is lots more money over gold class or MT75. and Front might have some weather cracking from sitting. and been fighting water in tank, battery showing age (06 battery) ,thinking of an antigravity brand or at least one of their jump packs. Salty though. Bearings doing strong, 21k+ on bike so prob 15k on new rearwheel/bearings from when sprocket worked loose. So probably gonna replace rear bearing while off bike. but fuds are short right now sooooo. |
