Thread Last Poster Posts Pages Last Post Archive through November 15, 2006 Mabueller 30  1  11-15-06  05:00 pm

A note for cam installations:
Valve guide mod is easy - remove the seals, mark top of guide with a sharp pick or something to show how much needs to come off, use a drill bit that's larger than the guide O.D. and drill down to the mark (holding bit aligned with guide and steady so it doesn't jump around!), de-burr and round sharp edges w/ a dremel. Honing the guides would be a good idea, if you have the right size (dingleberry type hone). Re-install seals (you're supposed to use new ones - I didn't, and oil use has never been lower, go figure.

Another option - instead of cutting guides, just don't use the seals... might use oil, but who knows - you can always put them back on.

Retainer/seal clearance allows about .55" valve opening before interference, IIRC (see "replacement heads" thread to double-check!), so subtract that from your cam's advertised lift to get minimum required amount to be removed, then add a little extra (maybe .02") for good luck.

A machine shop (or a HEAD shop!) could do a much better job, probably pretty cheap too - but my setup is low-budget and intended to be temporary, so I just winged it...

060" is recommended.
Once again you've done a nice write up. I hadnt though of using a drill to just cut it away. Seems much easier than grinding!

Author Message   Nytrashman Posted on Wednesday, November 15, 2006 - 05:01 pm:        thanks EZ.......i still think i will go with plan C. if i get to plan Z prior to Dec please ban me from this board.   Mabueller Posted on Wednesday, November 15, 2006 - 05:07 pm:        So Buellistic, What would be your specific upgrade solution suggestion? TIA   Buellistic Posted on Wednesday, November 15, 2006 - 05:12 pm:        Nytrashman and BUELLers: If you take the head off, you will need a head gasket, base gasket, push rod cover gakets(upper/lower)which comes in a Top End Kit ... This will be in the FACTORY PARTS BOOK that you should have !!! Now if the cylinder wall looks good you will not have to do a ring job ... The way "i" get around this is to pull the wrist pin out of the piston leaving the piston with rings in the cylinder ... Now if you are going to pull the piston out of the cylinder, if it was me "i" would go ahead an put a high compression piston in at this time ... THAT MEANS BORING CYLINDER OUT TO NEXT PISTON SIZE ... Remember this: THE RINGS ARE YOUR ENGINE ... You really need to read the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL on this and ask questions why it says what it says ... "BUT" it will not have pulling the wrist pin to keep from doing a ring job because that is not what the SERVICE MANUAL is about ... IT IS ABOUT REPLACING PARTS THAT SOMETIMES IS NOT NECESSARY !!! In BLASTing LaFayette   Ezblast Posted on Wednesday, November 15, 2006 - 05:16 pm:        Concur!   Nytrashman Posted on Wednesday, November 15, 2006 - 05:20 pm:        upgrading the springs does make sense, thanks for pointing that out to me. i do not know what the turn around time is for the head work. i have not called and spoken to anyone from NRHS as i am still exploring all my options.   Ezblast Posted on Wednesday, November 15, 2006 - 05:25 pm:        Talk to Brian at Millinium/Revolution Performance - they have the kit on sale and he's always willing to discuss options - GT - JBOTDS! EZ   Buellistic Posted on Wednesday, November 15, 2006 - 05:37 pm:        Mabueller and BUELLers: "i" am NOT into telling you'll what STAGE HOP-UP to up-grade the preformance of you engine, "BUT" THINGS to keep you'll of the side of the road enroute to where ever your going or been(ie: PREVENTIVE MAINTANCE) ... Tell you things that will make you BLAST more reliable and "FUN" to ride ... Little things that are inexpenanceive to do to your engine that will make it run better and faster within its stock configuration with out hurting reliabity(remember the devil is in the details)... In BLASTing LaFayette   Gearheaderiko Posted on Wednesday, November 15, 2006 - 09:13 pm:        NYT: the ear beating will be worse! FYI: Both EZ and I are running similar engine setups. Stage 2 heads,B70/SE550 cams, 7500 redline-they arent exactly the same, but close enough. EZ flogs his on the street, mine is now a dedicated racebike (mercilessly flogged at 5000-7500rpm). Both arevery streetable, reliable and the powerband is where you want it if you want performance (IE not towing a trailer, sidecar or passenger). Neither are even close to a professional racebike where the powerband has moved so far up into the higher rpm range thats its a chore to ride. We both also have stock Blasts (no internal engine modifications) to compare to. You could get away with not doing a base gasket if careful on disassembly and Buellistics 'cheater' method of leaving the piston in cylinder the will work well too (just dont drop the piston pin retaining clips into the engine-new clips would be advised). As far as plan "Z" you can see how easy it is to go there. Think your mods out carefully. With the stage 2 head & high comp piston, B50 cams were recommended to me. Seriously, contact MMelvis about his engine. Buellistic is also right when he alluded to the point that whether you leave it stock or modify it, time should be spent tuning it and taking it to a reliable person with a dyno is invaluable. Whether Stage 1 or 2, I would definitely upgrade the springs to allow for a better cam or higher rpms down the line. Big bore kits come with the high comp piston. Lastly, nothing you're considering doing is going to turn it into a wheelie prone, tire smoking, Ninja beating Blasterd. Its also not going to be unreliable. With careful thought though it will turn into a bike you'll thoroughly enjoy riding (even more). Remember your Blast is only as reliable as the last person who worked on it!   Swampy Posted on Wednesday, November 15, 2006 - 09:47 pm:        To keep those pesky wrist pin retainers from falling into the crankcase, stuff a bunch of very clean rags into the crankcase before you try removing them. The cams are going to cost you about the seame amount of money, its the head work that will cost different. Maybe a deciding factor is decide what head treatment you can afford then match the cams to it.   Gearheaderiko Posted on Thursday, November 16, 2006 - 09:16 pm:        Since there's really only a choice of 3 street cams, matching the headwork will be easy and uncomplicated without much chance for error.

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