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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2007 - 07:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Interestingly enough, you can use a front brake line (steel or rubber) on the rear if you relocate or delete the brake light switch!

Yes PW03, please post those pics at the 'rearsets' thread.
As far as creating a debate, there are some things that cant be mentioned without it happening. But, as Saro pointed out, it is all about learning, and thats why I'm here (to learn).
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Buellistic
Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2007 - 08:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you "RETRO FIT" and "IMPROVISE" the you get to keep the BRAKE LITE SWITCH !!!

In BLASTing
LaFayette
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2007 - 08:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm pretty sure thats what I just posted, but without the condescension! : )
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Blake
Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2007 - 08:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

LaFayette,

I agree. I sorely want a Blast to tinker withand thrash around town. I dig big bore Thumpers especially air-cooled ones with carburetors. : D


"And the statement of "until the weight starts to shift to the front"..... THe weight STARTS to shift to the front as soon as you begin to decel either via engine braking or any application of brakes."

Saro, that is so true. Physics doesn't happen after a while all of a sudden. It pretty much governs constantly. : )

The simple truth is that, deficient traction or lean angle considerations exluded, 100% of the emergency stopping power for a sport bike (not a racing bike, just a sport bike) resides in the front brake. If you use the rear brake in such a situation, deficient traction or lean angle considerations exluded, then you aren't using maximum braking or you are going to generate a rear skid which can be extremely hazardous when it prompts the rear end to come around, upon which the rider will often release the rear brake causing the rear end to react violently often resulting in the rider being thrown from the bike.
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Swampy
Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2007 - 09:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Carlost,
I just put an Avon Vyper Stryke on the front of the Big Kids Blast this Saturday but have not had the chance to take it out. I was replacing an Avon AM51 that had a side wall that was cracking.

Yes I would still recommend them in the larger sizes.
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Joey
Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2007 - 09:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

About that cellphone thing and headsets: Statistics show that if 25% of people out there used headsets, then you'd be hit 25% of the time by someone using headsets instead of his hands. There is no statistical difference between hands-free and hands-full cell phone usage. When I'm in my cage, I almost always use only one hand to drive, so my other hand is free. It's the brain that loses road focus when carrying on a conversation on a phone.

Oh--I practice using my rear brake all the time! But, when I've had to stop suddenly, I've noticed that my foot just isn't into this whole stopping thing nearly as much as my hand, so I'm happy.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2007 - 09:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Swampy
" there has been a moratoreum on firearm and ammunition sales in the area and the bars are open 24 hours"Where are you and what century are you in?
Siberia is a crazy place...
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Slowhand96
Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2007 - 09:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Erik, I guess YOU BE THE MAN! ... LOL..

I agree with what you all say... yet disagree too.

Saro, I'm not sure how long it has been since you took the MSF course but there is an exercise for matching engine speed to road speed. Please remember this is a BASIC RIDERS COURSE, we have to cater to the lowest common denominator.

"a group of folks who, more often than not, should never even have LOOKED at a motorcycle." ............ We were all new to this once. Some of my proudest moments come when one of these "folks" scores perfect on the test and carves through the curve like they were born on a bike.

As far as the rear brake discussion goes, if a person uses it every time, they will develop the habit of using it correctly and with that will come the muscle memory of how hard they can apply it before before lock up. I firmly believe that any little bit it adds is worth it, that foot or two or five that using that brake provides could become valuable real estate someday.

Can I "PROVE IT"? No, nor can anyone prove that it is 0. My foot moves with my hand every time and if my front tire gets in trouble, my foot is already on the rear to take up the slack, no fumbling, no added reaction time.

Back to the BRC. I spend most summer weekends coaching 24 newbies (and the dreaded "know-it-alls"). Invariably I will run into the same "TYPES" of people in almost every class.

The woman who is taking the course against her husbands wishes, he has just spent weeks berating her that she will crash and die. I get the job of calming her nerves while I encourage and convince her that she can do it and will be fine.

Then there is the offspring of the grizzled old guard, harley faithful who's final word of advice to his youngster or wife is that using the front brake will kill ya. (I'm sure somewhere on some discussion board the opposite debate rages over front brake use)

The dirt bike kid who habitually uses only two fingers on the clutch and brake and never takes his fingers off of the brake leaver (constantly lit break light). Who also stands on the pegs half the time and sort of counter balances in the curves.

The person who has had it drilled into them that they have to get off of the clutch A.S.A.P and uses it like an on / off switch.

Frequently during the obstacle avoidance exercise someone will ask "is this when you teach us how to LAY IT DOWN?"

Finally there is the 16 to 20 year old who thinks a FZRXYZ600R1RR super sport is the perfect first bike that he can grow into. This is the kid I worry about becoming a red stain somewhere, I also worry that this same kid will come to a message board (not this one of course) and and go away filled with ideas and advice that are way above his skill level that he can't wait to try out on the interstate.

On any weekend I have 15 hours (10 on the bike) to take them from how to mount the bike, where to put the key, to swerving, cornering, and stopping with some level of proficiency. If I can do this... with the tools and time given, then I can end the day with peace of mind.

There is a lot that the BRC is and a lot that it isn't. There is an infinite amount of training that could be / maybe should be added but if I deviate from the curriculum I accept the liability. I can only keep the faith that these guys know what they are doing and I think that they do.

I've said my peace, I'll get off my soap box now, I promise no more posts on breaking.
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P3newbie
Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2007 - 10:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ok here goes, as a healthcare professional,(i am a chiropractor) i see stats on just about everything that happens. it goes with the territory. while i do not have the studies in front of me, i can tell you, that during several university studies that tested cell phone usage with/without hands free, and people driving under the influence, and (shocker coming-ready), using a phone without hands free had a 40% higher accident rate than dui's and handsfree.(suprised, and during one study found that cell phone users NEVER saw motorcycles or pedestrians, and would have killed 50% or more due to inattention to what they were doing. off my box now.

as far as pics of my rearsets, i would love to post them, i just have not figured out how the hell to post em. they are in my camera and on my hard drive, after that, a serious case of DUH!! has set in. i am working on it.
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2007 - 10:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

http://www.beginnerbikers.org/
http://www.beginnerandbeyond.com/index.php
Its not worth the chance of hi-siding - it locks up easily enough on the Blast in the rear - I frequent these two boards as a Blast fan - so I know those arguments well - lol


P3nb Email them to me I'll get em posted and then you can coment on them.
GT - JBOTDS! EZ

(Message edited by ezblast on April 06, 2007)
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Peppwaves03
Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2007 - 11:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK so I just took the MSF course (250 bucks) I have minimal experience (as you can tell by my posts) and I was told always use both front and rear brakes. It made sence to me (i was told 75 % of braking force comes from the bront brake and technology makes it so you wont fly over the handle bars), when coming to a stop you hit both brakes and balance off the left leg when stoping since your right leg will be already on the rear brake. As far as cornering into turns they advised to slow into a turn by braking both with the front and rear brake at the same time, and slowing into the turn, pressing, then rolling on the throttle out of the turn. At first it seems really weird and still does to be honest. What I dont get is how you can go to the course get your certificate yet not see one second of "real" world experience or go onto any freeway. Just a thought.

(Message edited by peppwaves03 on April 05, 2007)

(Message edited by peppwaves03 on April 06, 2007)
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, April 06, 2007 - 02:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Actually, it was the Advanced course I most recently took...

Once again, I strongly recommend taking the MSF courses as I know from experience some wild s**t can happen to you out there and the better prepared you are the more likely you'll survive that first 6 months. I understand the lowest common denominator factor and although people graduate or get a certificate, they've merely been taught the tools to make them a better rider. Practicing them makes the difference.
Slowhand, my respect to you for the wide range of students you have to deal with.

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Blake
Posted on Friday, April 06, 2007 - 03:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Great post Slow! You sound like a great instructor.

To be honest--I alluded to this earlier--I used to always brake combining front with light rear braking, until I grew tired of having to replace the rear brake pads so darn often, that and in one very aggressive stop (nearly missed a turn), the rear tire commenced skidding, I foolishly lifted off the rear brake, and suffered the adrenalin rush of a near high side.
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Sarodude
Posted on Friday, April 06, 2007 - 11:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Slow-


quote:

Saro, I'm not sure how long it has been since you took the MSF course but there is an exercise for matching engine speed to road speed.




Well, the course I remember taking around 2001 FORBADE simultaneous use of front brake and throttle. Had to use all 4 fingers to brake. Matching revs - actively matching revs to not upset the balance of a vehicle and misuse traction at the drive wheel(s)- involves the use of the throttle to raise the revs to where they need to be when you re-engage drive. Slipping the clutch without matching revs starts using up your traction budget at the rear and also upsets balance - unless that's what you want.

Again, there's a certain amount of damage control being done here. I suspect the reason they have you disengage drive and use all 4 fingers is to a) keep you from inadvertently giving it gas when you're trying to stop and b) if you failed at requirement a, you've disengaged drive so it won't matter. That doesn't undo the fact that it's just BAD PRACTICE.


quote:

Please remember this is a BASIC RIDERS COURSE, we have to cater to the lowest common denominator.




That is where I feel things take a turn in the wrong direction. Not everyone is cut out to ride. Personally, I think the public and the motorcyclists taking the MSF course would be better served if it WASN'T set up for the LCD. There should be some way to politely tell someone, "Maybe this isn't the right activity for you."

We all have limitations and would do well to heed them. Mine? Well, I'm terrible at organizing stuff. I can't manage my own time. It's nearly IMPOSSIBLE for me to take traditional classes and my great desire to become a Mechanical Engineer was squashed by grades in college. If I see the light at the end of the tunnel, escape from the train tracks has all of a sudden become uninteresting. I get too wrapped up in message board posts. (hey, wait a minute.....) These things cause me much grief in life - so I try to not insert myself in a situation where those things matter.

Poor eye-hand coordination? Inability to override human survival instincts? Having trouble un-learning the right foot mash? These things won't just depress you if you figure out you don't do 'em well. They will KILL you.

I ride in LA. Things can get pretty hostile out here. Between the sheer numbers of drivers, the legalization of lane sharing, the general lack of courtesy, and the "ME ME ME" of attitude of cagers make things VERY harrowing out there. This is not the place I'd want to send out someone making up part of the LCD crowd.

I'm not god's gift to motorcycling. I have coached enough people in 4 wheel racing and 2 wheel riding to know when some people don't have it in 'em. On a track, it doesn't matter so much - unless they start posing a danger to others. On the street.......

I have helped a few not so close friends learn to ride who shouldn't have been. They'd all taken the MSF course (something I suggest to everyone). They were still having trouble and asked me to help 'em. They did better afterward - but still not GOOD. Still not constantly improving. Still content with just the minimal amount of skill to ride around an empty parking lot - with a near zero confidence and competence level. I STILL felt EXTREMELY guilty to this day for not having suggested they sell their bike and take up basket weaving.

The MSF is a great thing. I think it's awesome when folks like you want to share their skill and passion for something. I'd myself LOVE to be an MSF instructor. But the MSF preaches certain things that I can't pass along with a clear conscience.

-Saro
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Carlost
Posted on Friday, April 06, 2007 - 11:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Lane splittin' in LA RAWKS! I did that for the very first time in '05 during Laguna. WOW! Wish we had that here in PA. I got pretty good at it, too...even got a thumbs up from a CHiP on an RT.

Anyway...MSF courses here are free and I took both Basic and Advanced...good courses. The Basic is a must. I don't remember anything they said that I would not repeat or teach someone else.

Here's a good one for avoiding highsides. If you must mash the rear brake hard all the time because you don't know WTF you're doing, then make sure that you keep doing this...don't change now and never let go the brake pedal : D
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Carlost
Posted on Friday, April 06, 2007 - 02:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah...Swampy thanks...went ahead an ordered a set $123 delivered from Tires Unlimited. Some of the mainstream bike tire places did not cary these "scooter" tires : D
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Carlost
Posted on Friday, April 06, 2007 - 03:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I can't take this stock airbox...takes to much dang space. Can't I just hang a UNI filter off the CV40 and support itwith some springs and stuff?

Who's done something that actually works AND looks good? : D
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Carlost
Posted on Friday, April 06, 2007 - 04:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

BTW the much maligned Buell Pro-Series air cleaner is not available...obsolete part. The Buell website still shows it as an accessory though.
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Ezblast
Posted on Friday, April 06, 2007 - 04:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)




Yes - you can do that, What I did is get the Torque stack for an M2 found at American Sport Bike and the stack pre-filter I got at Outer Wears Stack filter @ 0.050 filtering - pt. # 135-B - Black - they have multiple colors and attached that with a 3 1/2" hose clamp - 1 carb spring on each side of carb connected to lowest corner fin of head on each side. So far so good now with extended testing of each bike using the stock intake boot, however, I do change the intake boot out with the oil as a matter of course.
GT - JBOTDS! EZ

(Message edited by ezblast on April 06, 2007)
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Carlost
Posted on Friday, April 06, 2007 - 05:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

EZ WTF's a torque stack? : D
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Ezblast
Posted on Friday, April 06, 2007 - 05:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It adds a couple ftlbs to your bottom end;0) -
http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-prodshow/PROD66.html
GT - JBOTDS! EZ

(Message edited by ezblast on April 06, 2007)
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, April 06, 2007 - 08:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Uni filters come in a variety of shapes and sizes. The American Sport Bike torque stack is a must at least as an adapter to fit an air filter.
The elbow for the Pro Series is probably still available if you want to go that route.
K & N (or like substitute) also makes a multitude of filters that may work and there are also other CV40 carb adapters out there (but are generally overpriced as most are for the twin HD's).
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, April 06, 2007 - 08:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

PS Have yet to change an intake boot as the result of an unsupported carb!

Oh, god..here we go...
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, April 06, 2007 - 08:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So what exactly is the speed rating of these Avon 'scooter' tyres? (in letters and numbers please)
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Ezblast
Posted on Friday, April 06, 2007 - 10:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

P Though could have been rated S though they saw no need to for the rear.
S for the front.
The reason I mentioned the rear tire part is that I was curious as to why the the front was rated for more than the rear. So I contacted them and I was told they where both made to the same standard, however, for different bikes and that the rear didn't need a higher application rating for the model bike it was made for.
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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Swampy
Posted on Friday, April 06, 2007 - 11:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Chapperell has the Avon AM63 Vyoer Strykes, they are around $100 plus shipping for both front and rear. The speed rating is 100mph.
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Rotzaruck
Posted on Saturday, April 07, 2007 - 10:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Okay, I've worn myself out scouting around about this primary thing, I'll learn how to find stuff eventually I suppose, for now, I'll just ask, and beg patience.

Becks 04 blast has about 11500 miles, I was going to do the primary chain adjust, just cause. There's no abnormal noise (but this is the only Blast I've ever heard),far as I can tell. No other problems except I can't get from first to second as fast as i'd like, thought it may just be me, but Beck has trouble too. Guess the rev limit has it's good points. I was sure that would go away when I changed the fluid (to mobil synthetic),and adjust clutch, but no.
My manual gives a torque spec so low, my little T wrench won't get there, saw where a much higher spec was posted, and a listening method, but don't know about my untrained ears.
Quit rambling, self, ask the question

do I need to adjust just cause, or wait until I have a logical reason? Torque it to what?
Thanks
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Swampy
Posted on Saturday, April 07, 2007 - 12:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Don't sweat it. You need patience with this bike....

Look to see if the primary adjustment spacer is still in between the adjusting bolt and lock nut. Just start the bike up and after it warms up(just comes off fast idle) start backing the bolt out aways and listen to what the primary sounds like, then start tightneing it up till you hear the whirring noise, and back it off till it goes away. If that doesn't help with shifting then adjust the shifter pawl.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, April 07, 2007 - 08:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you've never done the primary chain then I'd adjust it. After that it should hardly ever need adjusting, unless you start abusing it.
There is no higher torque spec than 24 inch lbs (unless its newton meters) and Craftsmen makes a wrench that goes to 25 inch lbs and it will still be accurate enough at 24 inch lbs.

1st to 2nd hard shift is generally normal (it used to be 2nd to 3rd on the big Buells so they changed the ratios so 1st to 2nd would be 'bad' instead).
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Rotzaruck
Posted on Saturday, April 07, 2007 - 08:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Swampy,
some of the simplest things can be so complicated
and visa versa
that sounds so easy it's almost scary

Shify Paul?!!! I think I bought my M2 from him!!

if that adjust doesn't cure it, I seem to sense more questions on the horizon, I'll have to look in my picture book....we shall see
Thanks
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