| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
Harley-Davidson University CLASS of 1959 So I guess that makes you a technician?  | ||
| Buellistic |
"MECHANIC" In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Ezblast |
I was told this could also be dogged gear ears - if so that is a complete tear down and case split again - sorry for that news - only on the hardest ran Buell would this usually occur. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  (Message edited by ezblast on March 25, 2007) | ||
| Buellistic |
Jumping out of low gear happened to my S3T due to transmission abuse ... Had to replace first gear and shifter fork which was easy as my engine has a transmission trap door ... Make sure your Shifter shaft Alignment is correct before spliting cases !!! Count your blessing as it is easier to do transmission repairs on a BLAST than a XB ... In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Buellistic |
How are we all going to learn ??? In BLASTing Lafayette | ||
| Ezblast |
I concur with Buellistic! | ||
| Swampy |
I don't think it is a fluid level problem, I would readjust the shift rachet again. You could probably even run the thing for a very short period without the cover on just to check if it was correct. You could see how it goes into first without the cover on, checking alignment of the shifter detent and all the other stuff. If readjusting the rachet doesnt work then it is probably a bent shift fork if the gears all look good. Did you get the reassembly correct? | ||
| Mike86ttype |
I would like the post above this one be deleted and never talked about again.  Post deleted per request, but I cant promise it wont be talked about. (Message edited by gearheaderiko on March 26, 2007) | ||
| Drfeelgood |
Dagon, I scared myself today. I went out to get the bike warmed up for my to school ride and I look at the carb and noticed it was dripping! what looked to be gas on everything. Turns out it was just condensation that collected after I put the bike away the night before. It was colored funny cause I greased the carb up last time I was in it. Jumping to conclusions almost made me have a bad day haha. | ||
| Carlost |
Good morning...wow...haven't been here in a while...y'all missed me I'm sure. Anyway I just took possession of the 2001 Blast and wanted to know...WHAT IS THE RIGHT BATTERY FOR THIS BEAST? The Yuasa website shows YTX14BS which is a sealed wet battery. I was under the impresion that all "flopped sideways" Hardley batteries were of the sealed AGM type which is just slightly different. What would the Buell part number be? Thanks! | ||
| Peppwaves03 |
Hey guys quick questions. Just got a 2002 Buell Blast with 1400 miles and was doing the 1000 mile maintenance. I have changed the oil, changed the trans fluid, adjusted the clutch, and now I need to adjust the primary. From reading the posts and the manual I have to use a torque wrench set to 24 inch/lbs and then back off 7 flats? Two questions: 1) Where to do I find a torque wrench inch/lbs that can measure 24 lbs? The only ones I found start at 100 inch pounds. 2) what is meant by flats? Sorry I have never used a torque wrench Thanks! Trying to to do this myself as HD dealer here in Ann Arbor, MI said it would take them 15-15 days to do the 1k service and charge me 300 bucks. | ||
| Carlost |
Normally Sears sells both inch-lbs and ft-lbs torque wrenches...the inch-lbs being designed for much lower torques obviously. You can usually use a ft-lbs torque wrench at the lower settings to equate to inch-lbs. For example, if you were trying to reach 24 inch-lbs, you could set your regular torque wrench to 2 ft-lbs (12" per foot x 2 ft = 24 inch-lbs). However, torque wrenches tend to be innacurate at both extremes of its range. | ||
| Carlost |
Someone should add part number 65948-00 to the FAQ section as the Harley battery part number for Blasts...also fits V-Rods...  | ||
| Buellistic |
PN65948-00 battery FITs THE "V-ROD" and "BLAST" !!! GET A BAR TORQUE WRENCH BECAUSE IF YOU DROP IT "OR" IT IS OVER 6 MONTHs OLD YOU DO NOT HAVE TO GET IT CALABRATED !!! THINK ABOUT IT ??? In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Joey |
Flats are the flat parts of the bolt head. On a hex (6-sided) bolt, 6 flats would be one revolution. Diba? | ||
| Carlost |
I like the clickie-clickie of the digital torque wrenches... | ||
| Buellistic |
Carlost: What about the expense of getting one or more calabrated ??? You do not think they stay calibrated for ever do you ??? In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Craftsman/Sears/Orchard Hardware Supply/(K Mart?) sells a torque wrench that goes down to 25 inch lbs-it will go down to 24 inch lbs and still be accurate. As far as re calibrating torque wrenches every 20 minutes, thats just plain paranoia. For the average Joe, it will stay calibrated for a long time. Bar or click type is personal preference and both will go out of calibration eventually or if abused. | ||
| Swampy |
An Optima battery would work, or just get one from the Buell dealer or one of our wounderful sponsers! Are you absolutly sure its is a bad battery? Carlost, read up on the "By Ear" method, it is really easy to perform. Tighten it while running till you hear a "Whirring" sound then back it off till it goes away. Its perfect every time. | ||
| Swampy |
Doesn't EZ, have a spare battery? | ||
| Ezblast |
Yuppers - | ||
| Joey |
I tried this, but all I could hear was a "PUTT! PUTT! PUTT!..."  (Message edited by joey on March 30, 2007) | ||
| Slowhand96 |
Joey Try going "backwards" Loosen the bolt until you hear the chain rattle (its louder than the whir), then tighten until the rattle stops. When I did mine I could hear the whirring of the chain rubbing on the adjuster and the idle drop, then I loosened it about three "flats" and could hear the rattle. I split the difference, about 1.5 flats tightened from the rattle. I don't know if this is the best way but it has been working for me. There are lots of posts about the adjusting by ear method. | ||
| Ezblast |
Ride around a while. around 1/2 an hr., then take wrench loosen bolt and open up adjustment, then tighten bolt till put - put sound slows, then loosen till when put - put sounds normal - this of course assumes properly mounted air intake boot and correctly set idle between 1000 to 1200 rpms among other things - lol - when it sounds normal stop, tighten bolt, just before all the way up wrap a little pipe tape, tighten bolt to spec (I use German value), holding nut head in place - done. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
EZs German tightening value.....Gudntite BTW, I just mounted a new Vyper Stryke on the front of the Big Kids Blast tonight. I used a new method of breaking the bead WOW! was it eazy! I took a 12" piece of 2X4 tapered on one end mounted it on a 6' 2X4, about 12" in from the end so it would pivot, and put the short end under a wall perlin in the pole barn and pushed down on the bead and...POP! it came right off very eazy! (Message edited by swampy on March 31, 2007) | ||
| Mabueller |
Sure, EASY. But now I need to build a pole barn first ... . "... and put the short end under a wall perlin in the pole barn and pushed down on the bead and...POP! it came right off very eazy! " | ||
| Swampy |
Bring it over, I'll do it for you.... I guess you need the pole barn first to have trusses to hang the Blast from. | ||
| Mike86ttype |
my right front turn signal front clear plastic piece is missing. do they just sale that part and also both my pegs sag. is there a cheap fix to that. thanks | ||
| Mike86ttype |
Well guys its got to be a bent shift 1st gear shift fork. It takes off then jumps out of gear for a second then goes back in. i dont fill a jerk or anything but i hear it. Every other gears shifts fine. i have adjusted everything according to the book and still no luck. im running Castro 20-50 a little less then a quart. i had to replace the shift drum because the 1st gear journal was clogged with metal so im guess they tried to force it into 1st gear and bent the fork. man i dont want to take the bike apart again. | ||
| Ezblast |
Replace first and second gears and forks - they are cheap, work the hardest and it will give you peace of mind. GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
