| Author | Message | ||
     Deanh8 |
Its the 12 pin ECU style computer, carbed. What options do I have? | ||
| Jayvee |
Take a look at this yet? http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/disc us.cgi?pg=next&topic=47623&page=639850 They don't talk about nose-cone installed ones though. That's another possible. (Message edited by jayvee on March 19, 2015) | ||
| Deanh8 |
Yeah but the one they are talking about is from a 2000. Mine is like the one pictured below. i cant seem to find the factory race ones anywhere and aftermarket is slim to none  | ||
| Ratbuell |
Do you want to change the ignition module but keep all the stock stuff? Or do you want to swap out to something like a Daytona Twin Tec setup that's a standalone system? I ran a Twin Tec 1005 nosecone single-fire system in my old 1340 FLHP for years - dead-nuts reliable, ran like a champ, and it (an 80" motor with cam upgrade and ported heads) laid down 80/80 at the tire all day long. I installed the twin-tec system and simply abandoned the HD wiring/etc in place. Nosecone module, singlefire coil...and its own harness. That was it. | ||
| Screamer |
Dean, I think I might have a new Buell Race module for an M2 if you decide to go that route. R | ||
| Deanh8 |
Ratbuell, I just want to be able to tune this thing. Anything would be cool. It seems as though I cannot bypass the stock ECM as it controls a lot more then just the ignition. | ||
| Dannybuell |
An ECM on a carbed bike does one thing the ignition. I have the Crane HI4, very adjustable. Works Like a Champ with a Dyno Tune and a Mikuni! https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=crane+hi4+bue ll | ||
| Ratbuell |
What he said. It isn't an "ECM". It's an "ignition module", and all it does is make plugs go sparky-sparky. That's all. Chances are, they used the same physical box and wiring as the early EFI bikes used for their ECM's, for economy reasons...but trust me (us) - all it does is spark. Crane is adjustable. TwinTec is adjustable. Advance curves, advance amounts, rev limits, all that good stuff. All tuneable, with either of those choices and probably others as well. But don't worry - all "that box" does on the stock bike...is spark. That said...as I think on it...it *might* run the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) and the tach. Your new ignition will have a tach adaptor wire. Just leave the stocker in place and plugged in to the harness, to have VSS function. Unless you have a speedometer cable off the front wheel hub, but that age bike shouldn't. Although checking your factory shop manual will tell you if the wiring from the VSS (usually near the front belt sprocket / trans output shaft) runs through the ignition module, or if it goes directly to the speedometer (which may have its own processor). My FLHP had a cable speedo, and I used the TwinTec tach adaptor wire to drive my factory tach with no issues. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Screamer, what does the race module do? I might be interested. | ||
| 1313 |
I understand it only being an ignition module, but what about the engine temp sensor feedback, skip spark programming, etc.? Something needs to receive and process that electronic data, doesn't it? What else but the ignition module/ECM would do that? I wish I had paid more attention to the late M2's... 1313 | ||
| Cupcake_mike |
1313, m2 has a carb, so it doesn't need processing of any of that stuff. All the module does on a m2 is take the signal from the optical pickup at the cam cover and relay that to the coil.... | ||
| Screamer |
On an M2 the ignition controls spark delivery. On certain years in certain markets, there was temp sensor feature (same as the fuel injected models) that the module used to monitor engine temp and activate the engine protection strategy - if necessary. The "race" module moves the rev limit to 6800 rpm and it removes any stock timing manipulation that may have been in place to control sound emissions. | ||
| Harleyelf |
I used a M2 module when I converted my S3 to carb, and the part number was the same as many years of XLH. The 32399-84A was the module of choice for the Twin Sports racing series back in the day. Full advance curve, no VOES, single fire. Anything that will work on a Sportster of the same vintage should work. I lap-soldered and covered the solder joins with industrial (okay, military) shrink wrap. The color codes on the wires is the same. Pink for Tach. | ||
| Imadog |
I have the Dynatek Dyna DD2000-HD2E8 on my 2000 M2. It has an 8 pin plug, I thought this was same for the 2002 M2. Here is a link to the manual / installation instructions: http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/downloads/instruct /D2K-HD2E.pdf I had to set mine on curve 4 (started out on curve 2 but had issues with detonation) which has a lazy advance curve but is about the same as stock Q-curve ignition module. I had some other issues with carburetion (see my profile) so I may try bumping it up to curve 3 this spring. The unit I have does not look like the one you have pictured, but the people at Dynatek are very helpful. Hope this helps. (Message edited by imadog on March 22, 2015) | ||
| Xldevil |
Does the Dynatek bypass the POP sensor? Is it suitable for a 88" engine? Cheers,Ralph (Message edited by Xldevil on March 23, 2015) | ||
| Imadog |
Ralph, After re-reading this blog, it seems like they changed the ignition module for M2 in 2001-1/2 from an 8-pin to a 12 pin unit. Is the POP sensor what I call a Knock sensor (detonation sensor)? I don't have one on my 2000 M2. I checked www.dynaonline.com and I could not find a 12-pin ignition module, but I could have missed it. For your application you could inquire with them through e-mail. They have many modules for HD. Larry Nelson of Dynatek was very helpful and a fellow buell rider. Gary (Message edited by imadog on March 23, 2015) | ||
| 1313 |
To set the facts straight... From my 1997-1998 S3/S3T service manual:  Just a 'dumb' ignition module... From the 2001 M2 Cyclone service manual:  AND  A slightly smarter, more capable ignition module, that: 1. "make plugs go sparky-sparky" 2. engine temp sensor (which is a critical parameter for skip spark) 3. Bank Angle Sensor So I guess I was 'all wrong' - I forgot about the Bank Angle Sensor... And, I can confirm it was a 2001 Model Year change. I put on break-in miles on one of the first 2001 M2 Cyclone demo bikes. The first night out, skip spark activated when it shouldn't have. It was checked out the next day and it was determined that 2 wires were switched. Once adjusted break-in mile accumulation restarted. Just to set the facts straight... 1313 (P.S. Joe, I'll give you 3 guesses where this 'proof' came from...and the first 2 don't count!!!) | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Looks like it uses the same packaging as the fuel injection brains. | ||
| Imadog |
WOW!! That is great information. Thanks. | ||
| Ratbuell |
You can still keep BAS function, though - simply leave the OEM brain in place, plug 10 pin 6 and 9 will be unused, and plug 11 pins 1, 2, and 3 will be unused. Aftermarket ignitions like the TwinTec have their own cam sensors (hell, they ARE the cam sensor!), coil wires, and battery leads. It's a simple piggyback. Although, the BAS cuts spark, not fuel, so keeping it would be pretty much worthless unless you hooked it to a relay, driving the battery + connection on the TwinTec module... Skip spark...well...just keep moving and don't let it get *that* hot  | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Anyone using the Dynatek 2000i? |
