| Author | Message | ||
     Johnod |
Has anyone here done this? Planning on changing that and the primary adjuster upgrade, both per the Don Castro info. Any helpful hints, anything I can screw up badly? Thanks. | ||
| Buelliedan |
It is quite easy to do. Just a simple c-clip Make sure you get a new c-clip from HD. It is the same as a Sportster so just go to any HD dealer and tell them it is for a 2000 Sportster. Part # 11019 You just pull the primary cover and then pull the c-clip and the detent comes right off. make sure to take a dift punch and lightly tap all the pins in fully as they tend to wander out after some time. (Message edited by buelliedan on November 22, 2014) | ||
| Johnod |
Do I need to remove the clutch assembly? | ||
| Buellistic |
Johnod: The "BEST" advise anyone can give you is to get the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL and "PARTS BOOK" for your YEAR/MODEL BUELL ... Learn to be your own "MECHANIC" ... The reason Buelliedan told you the PART NUMBER and to ask for it as a 2000 "SPORTSTER" is HARLEY-DAVIDSON PARTS people go BRAIN DEAD when you say BUELL... (Message edited by buellistic on November 22, 2014) | ||
| Kc_zombie |
You need a service manual. If you can't get a manual then this link MAY help for the detent (it's for a blast)... http://buellridersonline.com/forum/showthread.php? t=6827 Seriously get a service manual. Good luck. | ||
| Johnod |
Guys I have the manual, thanks. I was asking for any helpful hints or stuff to watch out for. To me it looks like I need to pull clutch assembly, Dan didn't mention that, that's why I asked. It still looks like I need to pull the clutch assembly to me, looking at the book. Zombie thanks for the link that is very good. | ||
| Buellistic |
Johnod: PM me and "i" will send you some eye opening(brain too) HELP "INFO" ... | ||
| Johnod |
Pm sent. | ||
| Easy_rider |
You don't need to pull the clutch assy. Read the manual and decide which gaskets you plan on replacing before you start. The sideplate bolts have a tendency to be frozen. The heads strip out easily. Heat is your friend. So is anti-seize upon reassembly. For the clutch cover, make sure you loosen all four bolts evenly or one will bind and you'll strip it. The shifter is always a pita to get off. Take your time and work with it. There's one bolt underneath that I always seem to miss. The cover comes off much more easily if you remove it. | ||
| Johnod |
Why would I be removing the side plates? I see no mention of that in the book. | ||
| Phelan |
More than likely you won't be able to remove the primary cover without removing the left side plate. If you are still planning on changing ISOs, do this while you have the left plate off. If you can't find any tears in the ISOs or bent washers in them, they are more than likely fine though. I thought I needed to replace one but it turned out the bolt had backed out a bit so the ISO was loose. The washer and the rubber looked fine so I just bead blasted the bolt, loctited it, and put it all back together. Been that way a few thousand miles already with no issues and much less vibes. | ||
| Jim2 |
The shifter is always a pita to get off. Take your time and work with it. I use a faucet puller to make easy work of removing the shifter arm on my M2. | ||
| Johnod |
All I had planned to do was change the détente plate. Now I'm changing clutch plates, all the springs, clutch arms,and now rear isolators ,, when , when, when, will I learn? After 30 years of old cars and bikes you'd think I'd know better If it ain't broke leave it alone.  | ||
| Buellistic |
Johnod: There is an old saying: Be careful what you ask for ??? ISOLATOR HELP "INFO" will be on the way "ASAP" ... | ||
| Mhlunsford |
on my m2 I used a washer and X clip from ACE - tight fit. I did not see any mention above about checking if you have the newer detent I believe it has a A stamped on it. | ||
| Johnod |
Jim2 The faucet puller idea worked very well, thanks. I never would have thought of that. To anyone else I highly recommend this, the tool is only 10-12 bucks, well worth it. | ||
| Johnod |
Got the isolator plate off today, heat and a hand powered impact driver did the job. Snapped the head off one bolt though. | ||
| Hootowl |
When you reassemble, put some anti seize on the back of the head of the machine screw. | ||
| Johnod |
You guys using anti seize on threads as well? Think I read that somewhere. | ||
| Hootowl |
No need. The machine screw and the nut it threads in to are similar metals. IMHO the issue is corrosion between the bolt and the aluminum. They are pan head bolts so there is a lot of surface area to stick together. | ||
| Johnod |
Today I pulled everything and installed the new plate. Which of course leads to more questions. 1- Somewhere I read to install TWO retaining clips, any truth to that? Not sure it's even doable. 2- Should I install a new shifter shaft seal, and how hard is it to do? Thanks | ||
| Xldevil |
Afaik ,there is only one clip possible. The shifter seal has to be replaced,because it will most likely leak after removing the primary cover. It is an easy job,just tap the new seal in with care,using a tube that will only sit on the outer rim of the seal,but inside the seal's seat in the primary. Then,before you put the primary on,cover the knurled part of the shifter shaft with some thin tape or silicon band.This will save the seal lips. (Message edited by Xldevil on December 11, 2014) | ||
| Steveford |
If you still have the primary cover off, hit the clip with contact cleaner and give it a few drops of Green Loctite. Every little bit helps with that design. My first X1W kept popping that clip off and it turned out to be one of the shifter drum dowels was backing itself out so it was Green Loctite on the dowels as well. Be sure to set the shifter pawl adjustment with the drill bit and, ideally, a cut down primary cover. | ||
| Johnod |
Green is a new one on me, I see there are 5 different greens as well. I did the drill bit thing, no cut down primary though. | ||
| Steveford |
Green=Self Wicking http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37423-Green-Penetrat ing-Threadlocker/dp/B000IHLZ5E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8& qid=1418476482&sr=8-1&keywords=green+loctite | ||
| Johnod |
I ordered some. Thanks for the link. You ever wonder if the all the different colours, and all the different numbers are a bit of a scam? While I was in there, I got rid of the spring plate too. (Message edited by johnod on December 14, 2014) | ||
| Steveford |
The neighborhood children tell me that all of the variants of Loctite taste the same so perhaps you're right. | ||
| Lynrd |
Not true. I find the Red to be slightly tart compared to the blue. As for the green, I do not have an opinion - because who in their right mind would taste the green loctite? | ||
| Johnod |
I imagine the purple must be grape flavored, seems to reason? | ||
| 4speeder |
I have used the red and the blue loctite just about daily for 25 years. There is a HUGE difference in those two products. The blue dries to a milky white soft solid around threads and keeps things from loosening up. The fasteners can be removed with normal tools, but once loose it's difficult taking them apart with your fingers, you still have to use tools to overcome the drag from the blue Loctite. The red loctite is almost like a super glue once it sets up. If your threads are cleaned real good with lacquer thinner or acetone before applying the red loctite and assembling, it will setup and you cannot get the fastener apart without heating it up with a torch or high temp heat gun. Even if the fasteners are oily or dirty the red will setup hard, but they come apart a lot easier than if the fasteners are super clean when assembled. You would never want to use the red Loctite on any fastener that will need to be routinely taken apart. The red is also good for locking sleeves onto shafts that have a slip fit instead of an interference fit. Occasionally I have to machine a sleeve off of a shaft that I've put on several years earlier and the lathe tool bit will cut right on down to the shaft and the sleeve will still not break loose. The red Loctite is good stuff. Steve is right on about the green. The green is like the blue but it will actually wick itself into a fastener that has already been assembled so you don't have to take it apart. |
