| Author | Message | ||
     B1rdman |
GREAT...so I got the clutch all adjusted good, lever was firm and perfect...then after I adjusted the primary chain slack, for whatever reason my clutch lever got slack-ish where I'm not sure it's going to fully disengage if I press it to the handlebars. To make matters worse, one of those gay ass screws on the derby cover is stripped so I can't take it off right now to adjust the clutch slack. | ||
| Alfau |
1. Clutch cable sloppy loose. 2. clutch adjustment. 3. adjust the cable. If you adjust clutch b4 loosen cable,no good. | ||
| B1rdman |
Sorry man but I wasn't able to follow your train of thought there... I never touched the mid adjustment point or the lever area. I simply reattached the parts at the primary and adjusted the cable there back to what it was. Everything at the lever was perfect at that point. Then I adjusted the primary chain slack and bolted up everything else down there. Then I noticed that for whatever reason that the clutch lever now had a ton of slack. Can I take this new slack out at the mid adjustment point or does it have to happen at the primary? | ||
| Blackm2 |
Wes, make sure you're using the right size torx socket. If you go to small that strips those torx bolts pretty quick on the inspection cover. Plus you don't have to wrench those down to hard either. You MAY be able to make it up at the cable adjustment, but it really should be done first at the cable end. The cable adjust is more the fine tuning so to speak. | ||
| Buellistic |
CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT Class 101, just PM me if you want a copy ... | ||
| B1rdman |
I know how to do a clutch adjustment. My clutch was perfect before I adjusted the primary tension and bolted up the muffler and put the shifter back on. Then I noticed that I had slack in my clutch lever that wasn't there previously. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Perhaps the cable was not fully seated in the adjuster when you set the clutch-center ramp. This will move the arc where the clutch engages out of the best area (directly under the ramp). If it just popped into place you can extend the adjuster to take up the slack. It would be best to know for sure the cable is slack and re-adjust the ramp, then take up the excess slack. Drill the bolt out with a countersink if you have to. | ||
| B1rdman |
It was definitely seated, I made sure of it. I just don't understand why the damn thing suddenly got a ton of slack. So annoying! | ||
| Harleyelf |
One of the balls may have fallen out. Get that cover plate off and look before you put any miles on it if you value your primary chain and its sprockets. A loose steel ball can wedge in unpleasant places. The cable's failure to seat may have been at the lever. Did you check the tension pad to be sure it is the new design? | ||
| Hootowl |
A loose ball can wedge in uncomfortable places. Ain't that the truth. | ||
| Kalali |
"I know how to do a clutch adjustment. " Dude, no one is questioning your wrenching abilities but if this is what you did: "I never touched the mid adjustment point or the lever area. I simply reattached the parts at the primary and adjusted the cable there back to what it was", then you need to consult the FSM one more time. The procedure needs to be followed to the tee otherwise you'll have issues. | ||
| Harleyelf |
I think his issue is more likely to be the circlip than the cable. If it went boink suddenly and now is super-loose, something inside was not fully seated. Or its groove was not quite clean. Or it was re-installed upside-down. The book says to use a new one every time, and a new shifter seal. | ||
| B1rdman |
The circlip can be installed upside down? Which part is that? Or better yet, which numbered item from this figure:  (Message edited by b1rdman on July 26, 2013) | ||
| Beardo |
There is only one circlip in the breakdown. | ||
| B1rdman |
With the amount of time it took you to type that super helpful reply, you couldn't at least just give me a number? If you or anyone really gets exasperated and feels the need to be condescending or sarcastic, then simply move on to another thread. As for the people who have been HELPFUL, thank you, I really appreciate it. | ||
| Beardo |
Nah. Since you are super smart, going to school at USC, you know what a simple circlip is. Hell, I'm surprised you haven't figured out this problem yourself. But I'm just being condescending and unhelpful. Basically, what I'm saying is, you have had everyone bend over backwards to help you. Even have you the answers, not the clues, the end to your troubles early in the thread. But have dismissed it. Acting like an •••••••. Sell the bike. Buy a Honda. And •••• off... (Message edited by Beardo on July 26, 2013) | ||
| B1rdman |
Go take your assinine comments and troll somewhere else. You are a complete waste of internet bandwidth. You may have a pathetic freakin life over there, Brian, with nothing else to do but to make snarky comments on the internet, troll people's threads, and insult them, but keep it to yourself. Go stroke your over-inflated ego somewhere else. | ||
| Oldfartnbuell |
beardo AMEN! | ||
| Harleyelf |
There is no upside down for the circlip (#13) unless you ignore the manual and re-use it. Inverted might be a better word; what do I know about proper terminology, I only went to Cal Berkeley. At the hardware store, you will want a torx driver bit set, not a "gay-ass screw" remover. Go to the Ace Hardware on Melrose in South Hollywood and use that term. If you reinstalled it inverted, it might have picked up some warp or chamfer which might make it pop out. Most times when they pop out it is because they were not fully in the groove or there was FOD in the groove. The part is symmetric when new. I re-use them several times, but I make sure it is fully in the cleaned groove and can turn freely. You don't need a part number, just a clean groove to seat it in and the right tool. And I always shorten up my cable adjuster before assembling and adjusting my clutch for a reason. You're looking to place zero load on the mechanical parts before the cable begins to move it. Got to relieve the cable tension if you want to know just when that is. Lever (#6) must be at the back of its travel. The guys you call trolls are all active, helpful members of this forum. Any day when you feel you are meeting more than your fair share of rude folks, look to the signals you used to draw them to yourself. | ||
| Kalali |
Well said. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Please stop the personal attacks, they don't add anything. Basic politeness 101... If you are getting help, make sure you listen first, then talk. People are giving of their time and knowledge to help you. Try and make the best use of what they are giving you, just as you hope people make good use of things you give them. If you are giving help, do so politely, or don't do it at all, either is fine. Giving advice, then being an ass about it, is still being an ass. (Thanks! I should know, I've done this wrong from both sides  ). | ||
| B1rdman |
Thanks, Bill. I really do appreciate all the helpful people who have positively contributed in my threads. There will always be those with a superiority complex or that get their jollies from attacking new or ignorant members on any forum. They fail to realize that it not only makes them look bad but that it really gets nothing positive done, and as such, should simply refrain from commenting. I have searched on these forums and others, I have consulted the manual many times, and I have learned on my own before posting a new thread, despite how it may appear. I'm sorry that I didn't know what a "circlip" was when I've always called them snap rings. I'm sorry that it "appears" that I've ignored other people's suggestions or advice because in FACT I have ignored nothing. I would rather ask about something 5 different times than to do it wrong once. I am not a noob to forums in general or mechanically. That said, even when I know how to do something if there is the slightest hint of doubt then I'll try to find the answer from manuals, online, or others. I enjoy this forum and for the amount of knowledge from its members. As for the bike, I adjusted the clutch and started it up. Took a few turns of the key for the fuel pump to want to prime but on the third click it primed completely and started up with no issue. I let it idle for a good 15 minutes and haven't so far seen any leaks. The real test will be on the road but go figure it just started to pour outside. | ||
| Kalali |
All is well. No harm done. Make sure your Battery is strong under load. The OEM ignition switches are also known to get flaky as they age. Keep at it. | ||
| Tll130 |
Birdman let me know if you don't have it figured out yet I just replaced my clutch cable and I will more then gladly take it all apart again and vid it for you and throw it all back together and adjust it... Or just make a quick vid on adjusting it for you? Maybe it'll help | ||
| B1rdman |
Hey I appreciate the offer, Travis, but I was able to get it working. It was all put back together just fine, the "circlip" was seated without issues, no loose balls or anything. After I adjusted the cable again it worked great. Maybe I had gotten distracted with something else the last time I adjusted it, who knows. I rode it all day yesterday with zero issues. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Good to know. Many happy returns and miles to go before you sleep. Nine times out of ten, when the clutch slips suddenly and still works, it is a cable issue such as not being seated fully into the handle's recess at the time adjustment is set. That tenth time there are loose parts in the primary case. Did you check your primary chain tension shoe to see it is the new design? My original one came apart and traveled up to wedge above the chain. | ||
| B1rdman |
I don't know if it's the new design or not, but best chances are that it is not. I'll look into it to see what I have and where I can get the new design though. When I inspected it, it looked to be in good condition. It was probably the 9 out of 10 times scenario though. | ||
| Harleyelf |
It happened to mine during a test drive at the stealership after a recall upgrade. They replaced the shoe and the primary chain but neglected to properly torque the drive sprocket. Half way home it backed all the way off and started rubbing on the inside of the primary case. The shifter shaft seal removed itself and all my primary oil dripped out. I repaired their damage myself. That chain doesn't stretch if properly lubricated and not raced. Adjust it so loose it almost hits the case and forget it for years at a time. Too tight and it can pop the seal out from under the clutch basket or even bend the transmission shaft. | ||
| B1rdman |
I gave it a 1/2" play...that should be enough, right? That's what I read from the manual anyways. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Yes, if you had the tightest spot. I adjust mine while the motor is running. It should be too loose to look like a vibrating guitar string but too tight to slap the case. |
