| Author | Message | ||
     Beardo |
Seems to me, reading through this thread, people have explained what's going on. You either don't get it, or have chosen to ignore vital information... | ||
| B1rdman |
Wow...look, I know it's the crank seal. But I had originally taken it to a shop to fix that very thing and they strung me along for 2 months telling me it was everything but that seal. Finally after they fixed all parts that went bad due to the crank seal, they admitted that it must be the crank seal. I will be fixing it myself, but I don't need any jackass comments from people, you or otherwise. | ||
| Oldog |
Bird I have done the crank seal, Offer is still good, we need to set a time. soon, I am in the bran, and can be reached at "jbryant at tankfab dot com" did you ever resolve the 5th gear issue? | ||
| Beardo |
'I will be fixing it myself' Isn't that what you should have done in the first place? Jackass comments? Hardly. If you are going to act like a bull-headed ass, then don't be surprised by the comments you get in return. As for you, written off... | ||
| Oldog |
We need to borrow the seal driving tool for the crank seal, to set it to the correct depth, I have a table and a secure garage to work in over a weekend it is important that we have parts and any special tools required, I have the clutch spring tool,and a locking bar, crank seal, and driver are needed, as well as 1 quart of your favorite tranny juice, and a primary gasket. | ||
| Buellistic |
HARLEY-DAVIDSON technicians making MECHANICS out of BUELL Riders since OCTOBER 2009 !!! Get the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL and PARTS BOOK for your YEAR/MODEL BUELL, start learning !!! | ||
| B1rdman |
Jim: I've ordered the seals, as well as a locking tool (you hadn't responded yet and I'm gonna get this done hopefully next week.) Where can I get a seal driving tool? | ||
| Oldog |
Kent Moore, its a steel ring that fits over the crank and has a shoulder to set the seal in the correct depth, Reepicheep got one in too deep, it does not work well. | ||
| Buellistic |
Did mine with out the "SPECIAL TOOL", THINK and IMPROVISE !!! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Works great! For about 4000 miles. Then not so much.  You can make a less good special tool by machining a "step" into the tip of a dowel rod. Put the high part of the step on the seal, and the low part on the aluminum case, and carefully insert. That will keep it from going in too deep. That was my infamous green tinker toy my kid busted me using (hey! You broke my tinker toy!) The special tool is much more fullproof (and foolproof) though. | ||
| B1rdman |
I would rather just buy the special tool...any links to it specifically? I found hundreds on ebay. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
This are some good write up's ,and even with a pdf for making your own tool. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/695328.html?1349218166 http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/174248.html http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/695100.html | ||
| B1rdman |
Finally got around to taking the bike apart. Now, looking at the crank seal it doesn't seem like it's bad...or does that not matter? From the many posts I've made on this forum, everyone has always said it was the crank seal. Every time the mechanics would seal up an area that the bike was leaking from, it would leak from somewhere else instead. It was for sure leaking out of the trans vent tube in the tail section a while ago, which almost always points towards a bad crank seal, right? The oil level in the engine oil tank would go down as well. Here are some pics...first and last pic show the crank seal...I can get more pics if need be.      | ||
| Tll130 |
im new to bulls in general but mine was puking oil almost non stop it seemed like but when i would stop it and sit it then check the engine oil it wasnt going down after reading on this forum i decided to change the crank seal just incase after a week of puking. drained oil out of tranny and engine changed crank seal put everything back together put full syn in both tranny and it puked a bit im assuming to find its get rid of any excess and hasnt happened since (unless i go really hard on it then a few drops come out but thats normal from what ive read) and mine looked just like yours so if you already have it apart my advice would be just replace it anyways better safe then sorry. | ||
| B1rdman |
Final question before I go to bed: I noticed that when I wiggled the spacer out that it started leaking a considerable amount of oil right away from the engine...should it do that, simply by removing the spacer? I'm guessing NO and that the seal, if not faulty, would keep the oil separated. If so, then I definitely found my problem. | ||
| Tll130 |
That I'm not sure as before I changed mine all my oil was drained from my bike as I wasn't sure if it needed to be or not and it needed an oil change anyways. What I would do is visually inspect it if it looks ok it mostly likely is put in the new seal and put it all back together. If you are feeling iffy like the spacer is part or all of it then call your local dealership and see if they have one in stock and replace that to? If not maybe check online. If you don't feel like waiting and you want to just get to riding put in the new seal and keep old spacer in put it back together and stop worst thing is you just need more oil and a spacer. So on the knowledge I have that's all I can do for you but maybe someone else can give you a straight yes or no on your question. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Anyone with a pre-'99 or '00 lightning or S3 should change it just because they improved the design. My S3 puked the month I got it. | ||
| B1rdman |
Oh I'm definitely going to change it lol. Just wondering if anyone can answer that question or affirm that what I said is true? | ||
| Bluzm2 |
What Elf said, from the looks of it you have the original single lip seal. Change it to the new double lip seal. When you pull the spacer you will get some drain back into the primary space. Not a lot, just what's in the bearing and race area. If you get more than that, you have a serious sumping issue. Means you may have a leaky check valve in the oil pump. Not a big deal really, just takes a while for the pump to clear the sump on start up. | ||
| B1rdman |
Yeah it was a considerable amount of oil that didn't seem to end for about 20 seconds before I put it back in to stop the flow. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Then you need to be very careful to only add oil when the sump has been pumped dry; that is, when the motor is warm. If you have a sumping issue and you fill the oil tank before starting the engine, you will have a bad day. The best outcome is your head vent puts the excess quart of oil into your air cleaner and onto your right leg. Tanks have burst. That gets messy. | ||
| B1rdman |
How do I find out what the defective part is? I would much rather address and fix that issue now with the bike apart. Is it the check valve/spring in the oil filter housing? | ||
| Blackm2 |
One thing at a time Wes. Get that seal fixed! The pump is on the other side underneath the cam cover, on the bottom of the engine.  | ||
| B1rdman |
Gotcha, will do. lol I should have the bike back by tomorrow night and then it's just reassembly. I'll probably have it back together before tomorrow. Should I need to worry about a clutch line seal or oring, since oil was coming out of the mid-adjustment point? Or not worry since this time the primary shouldn't be pressurized? | ||
| Blackm2 |
Well if that o-ring isn't fresh at the primary cover/clutch cable, I would replace it and the shift shaft seal too. But you shouldn't have to worry as the new seal will prevent the primary side from pressurizing. | ||
| Kalali |
You may also want to replace the chain adjuster shoe while you have the primary cover off. That's if you still have the OEM unit in there. There are also a few other things to "improve" in the gear shifter area like the c-clip or may be even refresh the starter gasket. It just depends on how far you want to go. I'm going to do most of those when I replace the transmission oil in a couple of weeks. | ||
| B1rdman |
New double-lip seal is in! Once I get home from school (USC) I'll try to get it all back together. I hope this solves my oil leak issues...it's been 3 months since I've ridden.  | ||
| Harleyelf |
It should solve your "oil leaking from pressurized primary" issue; no more pressurized clutch cable! After your joyous test ride, examine your oil lines under the bike. If you have foreign matter in your pump's check valve, you may have rotting rubber above your muffler. Treat the symptom without exposing the root issue and you will be treating the same symptom again far too soon. Oil line is easy to find. Tank to pump and pump to tank run in a hot zone above the muffler. Pump to filter is in a rock strike zone. Vent to tank is subject to heat, too, from the cylinders. But first, go for that joyous test ride! Synthetic 20W50 will not rot your stator. | ||
| B1rdman |
I'm gonna use Mobil 1 V-twin oil, 20w50 in both the engine and primary. Does that sound right? (Message edited by b1rdman on July 25, 2013) | ||
| Jim2 |
Yes |
