| Author | Message | ||
     Nein_collins |
hey guys... this one has left me stranded more than once...I needed to replace the main crank seal, and while I was in there, the detent plate needed repair(blasted little clip!!) so I got the Baker smooth shift kit to install. Got it all back together and it rode great, now my problem is the 20a ignition fuse is popping once the bike warms up. Like I said, it's left me stranded a few times..lol. Anyway the first time it happened, I did a search here and it came up with loose cables (battery cables were quite loose - thought that fixed it, but nope...not hardly). Then I disconnected the speed sensor, nope..not that either. I disconnected my hid headlight (and pulled that fuse) to see if it was loose wiring there...nope!.. Not sure where to go from here guys, after almost 4 years of ownership and fixing almost everything myself, i'm about done...I look at the 2 old hondas in my garage and i'm wondering if i'll have as many issues with them as I have with this bike once I get them put together.... Do i need to tear the primary back down and check to see if I chaffed the wires on the "alternator" that I was so very careful to not chaff the wires on? I rode it around the neighborhood tonight and as I accelerated is when the fuse popped... Thanks guys! Gray | ||
| Reepicheep |
I don't know how a bad stator could blow a fuse. I think you have a different problem. | ||
| Jayvee |
I don't have the book in front of me, but you did trace the wiring diagram of what components are on that circuit? Doesn't it have to be somewhere along it? Electrical is supposedly very logical, even though to me, it seems to operate more in the magical | ||
| Harleyelf |
Check the stator wires for shorts to ground, but most likely there is some other explanation. Did your neutral light switch come off when you installed the Baker kit? Might it be the pinched wire? Run your fingertip along the edge of the primary gasket and look for anything electrical. | ||
| Oldog |
20 A is the main ignition fuse? Some suggestions, using the wiring diagram see whats connected to that fuse, locate the devices and any connectors, trace the wires visually looking for any nicks, pinched places, etc, pay attention to the wiring conditions at connectors and places like the stator wire grommet Most simple devices the wire is +12V. others ( like the fuel pump ) there is a +12 from a fuse and then the "ground is switched on and off" by the ecm. Electrical trouble shooting is a process of elimination and should be done methodically Good luck | ||
| Arizona_buell |
If you suspect the stator then unplug it and try it like that. Has to be a direct short to blow the fuse repeatedly. | ||
| Oldog |
20 amp ign fuse is fed from the battery across the starter terminal and a 30A self resetting circuit breaker. from there it goes to the key switch to the fuse block From the 20 a fuse it feeds the ign relay@30 then to the handle bar kill sw, the relay coil is fed @ 86 W/bk it looks like 87 is hot when the relay is "on" this feeds s 16 that feeds the fuel pump, bank angle, ecm p1 blk, injectors and coil pack +12V Your stator is behind the VR and behind the 30A breaker I doubt its the issue | ||
| Littlebuggles |
It's not uncommon for ignitions to go bad on any bike that's had more than the key on the key ring. These are exposed to the elements as well, so Al sells replacements. My dad's Honda (PC800) did the same thing. I had a '88 Lincoln who's ignition liked to short to ground and draw the battery down, left me stuck a few times 'til I fixed it. | ||
| Oldog |
I have to go with Mike on the key being a possible problem and intermittent, especially if you have a metal dash support for the key If the switch is in a plastic dash I would check other places that line feeds so many things, |
