| Author | Message | ||
     Fresnobuell |
Hey guys, I purchased a used PWC trailer and at some point I believe the lugnuts were installed backwards with the narrow, tapered side towards the wheel. Anyone want to confirm or am I missing something here? The tapered end does fit the hole in the wheel, but I believe the flat side of the lug should be against the wheel.  | ||
| Ratbuell |
They're installed correctly. It's a "lug-centric" wheel. The tapered lugs fit into tapered holes, and center the wheel on the studs. Install the tapered side into the tapered hole in the wheel. You can *try* it the other way, but it'll be a bouncy ride!! | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Thanks. I did some googling on the subject and I was going to conclude the same thing. Just looked strange, but I kinda knew it might be correct since the tapered part and the wheel hole mated up so well. Any advice on dry torque? I was going to go with 75 ft lbs. They are 1/2 inch studs on 13 inch wheels. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I just put brakes on my Grand Cherokee with alloys, 110 lb-ft there. Should be a sticker on a fender with torque specs? If not...go 75 and paint-mark them - dot on the lug, dot on the wheel. If the dots stay lined up you're fine; if the dots go out of alignment you know the lugs are loosening and you need to go tighter. | ||
| Bandm |
I would go 100 ft lb http://www.hispecwheel.com/files/LugNutTorque.pdf | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Got an email from the manufacturer: "Coined side goes to the wheel, it’s a three stage torque for the lug nuts, first is 25 lbs, 2nd 60 and the last is 90 pounds. See PDF file for torque specifications, for 13” wheel use wheel size 14 (1st line)" | ||
| Fresnobuell |
I like the paint mark idea too. Easy visual. | ||
| Ourdee |
Joe has paint marks all over the place. It works. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Yep. My bikes have freckles  Makes for a super-quick pre-flight. | ||
| Etennuly |
The trailers I have done maintenance on for years have the same size studs and nuts. They say 120 ft lbs. They recommend checking them before and during any trip. Few people do, but my experience tells me to torque them when installing them and again within ten miles of carrying a load. Then you should be good for a long time. Do not fall into tightening them a little bit more when ever you check them. This is the number one cause for having to install new studs and nuts. If you check them with a non torque wrench, just put the socket on and apply pressure in the tightening direction to feel that they are not loose or easy to turn. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Go to Harbor Freight and buy a $20 torque wrench. They have, consistently been within 1% of a SnapOn or Proto torque wrench on my local SnapOn truck. Wheels are one of the most important torque specs to follow. And Head bolts, rod caps... Z | ||
| Aesquire |
I have a religious question! Never seize? | ||
| Pwnzor |
I looked at the title and thought the OP was referring to himself.... carry on. | ||
| Ourdee |
Never seize? I wouldn't. The torques are dry. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Agreed. And, you're steel-on-steel, not dissimilar metals. Clean your threads with a brush, chase with a tap if you need to, and torque dry. | ||
| Sifo |
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| Gregtonn |
Wheels are one of the most important torque specs to follow. Having changed thousands of tires, (I was a certified mechanic and tire tech in a past life), I wonder what the basis for that statement is. While most pneumatic wrenches are adjustable they are by no means calibrated. In addition: What would be the point of having a taper on lugnuts if it doesn't contact and thus center the wheel? There is some serious "over thinking" going on here. G | ||
| Ourdee |
Ain't that what wees good at? | ||
| Crusty |
I looked at the title and thought the OP was referring to himself.... Is it worse to be called a Lugnut or is it worse to be called a dipstick? | ||
| Ourdee |
Spare-tire. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Saw a Youtube video of a test with dry threads and lubed threads with anti-seize. They had a machine that gave a reading as the nut was getting torqued on the bolt. At 45 ft lbs. and a dry stud, the reading was about 40-something percent of the tensile strength of the stud. Lubed at the same torque it was over 90 percent, meaning deformation of the threads and weakening of the steel was imminent (bad stuff was gonna happen once the wheel started to bounce down the road.) I might have some of the terminology wrong, but the jist of it was do not add lubricant when the specs call for dry torque. | ||
| Zac4mac |
I saw on the inter webs yesterday, an Indian(from India) has the unfortunate name of Dikshit. I think it was an article about the slow decay of the Taj Majal. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Means "Golden Child" in Indian. Just googled it. | ||
| Ourdee |
Goldenflow | ||
| Fresnobuell |
I thought they were all named "Boss" anyway... | ||
| Crusty |
Means "Golden Child" in Indian. Just googled it. Yeah; and Kemo Sabe means either Faithful Friend or Sh*t Head in whatever language Tonto spoke. | ||
| Pwnzor |
I thought they were all named "Boss" anyway...  | ||
| Aesquire |
Just got back from the mechanic. Swapping tires to winter studs. They rounded off a lug nut, & had to drill it out. ( only on Chryslers they said. Funny, has happened to me like once, ever, and I've owned Dodges since 1976. And it happened on my only Ford. Which to be fair, was a rot box. ) That they installed. This summer. I commented that I liked to use never seize, & the mechanic said he hated the stuff, gets on everything. ( true, that's what gloves are for ) And that he used grease! Proud of it, too. So, you were saying? | ||
| Hootowl |
The grease didn't prevent him from rounding off the nut. I wouldn't use grease on any fastener unless I wanted it to come off unexpectedly. | ||
| Pwnzor |
Never seize should only be used when threading incompatible metals onto each other... my opinion. |
