| Author | Message | ||
     Dktechguy112 |
As many of you know, i just got my 1125 fixed up after my bro wrecked it on palomar. When he went down, the clubmans bent into the frame, it made a little dent in the frame. I didn't think it punctued all the way through, well it looks like it did. After riding it today i noticed a little ring of fuel around it, not a drip at all, just a very slight ring. What should i do to fix it? I was thinking of using jb weld, but i don't know if that can be used with flammables. This is a pic of just the frame puncture, i don't have a pic of the leak, my bro is emailing that to me, i will post it up when i get it:  | ||
| Smoke |
i have used epoxy glue, jb weld and welding on gas tanks to fix leaks or seeps like what you have. i would jb that one you have. run the fuel out until the low fuel light comes on, sand to the metal at the seep, clean with solvent, dry, undo the gas cap for venting and mix and apply. sand smooth and touchup paint. tim | ||
| Puddlepirate |
+1 on the JB. I've successfully used it to repair a tank before. | ||
| Bobbuell1961 |
Years ago i patched a quarter sized hole in a tank with a product called Marine Tex, sold in marine supply stores, Had the tank in service for over a year with no issues | ||
| Jules |
+2 on the JB weld I used to get it from the Base Exchange when working on US Military sites, I now have to make do with "Chemical metal" (almost the same stuff but slighly porous though). Smoke's instructions on the prep work are spot on too. | ||
| Mr_incognito |
I got a bad crease in my tank on the stunt bike when I was beating it in, and it ended up turning into a hole by the time I got it completely smoothed out. I used that metal putty stuff that comes in a little tube (cant for the life of me think of the name right now). It set up in about an hour and ive been riding it leak free for about a month now. That stuff was cheaper than JB too I think. | ||
| Xtreme6669 |
Magic putty...? The commercial shows you can use it a chain links... LOL good stuff! | ||
| Froggy |
I've always wondered how good this crap is | ||
| Torquaholic |
I used JB on my 1125R frame to fill and smooth after a crash about this time last year. I'd advise you to stick with the traditional JB Weld, not the JB Kwik. Although the kwik will probably work, I'd feel safer with the original. The original has held up great for me. It can be sanded, primed and painted over. If you want to take an extra precaution, you might consider the JB Marine Weld, which is advertised to be more chemical resistant than traditional JB. | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
does anyone have the p/n for touch up paint on the 1125 frame, its an 09 cr, so the frame color is black. | ||
| Arcticcr |
I guess I’m the only one who’s conservative, because that “little” puncture is a crack, not a smooth radiused edge that somewhat evenly distributes the load like a hole would and will therefore create a huge stress raiser! With the frame taking a dynamic load, loading and uploading, there is no way by any sort of glue putty or what not to keep that crack from propagating. The only remotely feasible solution to keep the crack from propagating is to weld it. However, I’m by no means a welding expert, nor do I know the process in making the frame, i.e. is it heat treated, will the welding locally anneal the material, dropping the tempering or what not. So sorry for the bad news, and flame the engineer if you want, but I would replace the frame. (Message edited by arcticcr on April 27, 2010) | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
arcticcr, the crack is just the paint on the weld, the weld itself is ok. I'm trying to get a better picture, the one i have up isn't focused very well. | ||
| Duphuckincati |
I'm sure Arcticcr makes very good points, personally I'd do the JB Weld and clean the paint/powdercoat off the frame in the surronding area to keep a close eye on any changes and don't do any wheelies or stoppies. But then again that's me. See "my other bike" posting and you'll see I'm not scared to look funky. | ||
| Carbonbigfoot |
JB. Not the quick set stuff, the regular. Just short of bulletproof. R | ||
| Mr_incognito |
No not the magic putty lol! Its that putty like crap that comes in a small clear tube and is rolled in plastic....you rip a peice off and work it until its a consistent color. I cant think for the life of me of the name. It works great though. Us stunters have two basic needs: that stuff and zip ties. | ||
| Family_buells |
Articcr is right. You have a crack in your frame. There is much more than you can see as well. Sure JB weld will seal the leak, but it will do zero to keep the crack from spreading. if that part of the frame sees any stress. To find out how extensive the crack is, you would have to remove the paint from a decent sized area around the hole and do something like a dye penetrant inspection to find out how bad it is and then weld it. | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
if i have to weld it, can they weld it on the frame if i drain the gas? or do i have to remove the frame from the bike? should i even try the jb weld? | ||
| Firstbuell |
forget the JB get your frame [a KEY component] repaired properly | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
can i weld the frame on the bike, or do i have to take the frame off the bike? | ||
| Vinb |
It be better to take it off that way it can be filled with water or an inert gas (argon) but you could do it with the bike together its more the welders call on that. | ||
| D_adams |
Drained, rinsed, purged, then maybe I'd think about welding on it if I had an AC tig welder. | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
to rinse the tank out, would i have to pull out the fuel pump? If i leave the fuel pump in the bike and put water in it, wouldn't water get into the pump and then the engine? | ||
| Johnbranx1 |
I had to drain my tank to get the a seat tab rewelded last year. Drained the tank through the tank plug on the left side of the frame behind the front sprocket cover. Filled with water as long as you don't hit the starter button with water in the tank the water will not get into the fuel pump. After the welding I drained the tank...put dry gas in it...new gas in the tank...and you are good to go. | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
johnbranx1, what do you mean by dry gas? | ||
| Froggy |
Drygas is basically ethanol you can pick up at any gas station/Autozone. It absorbs moisture and allow it to be safely burned off. It is what you use if you happen to get water or moisture in your tank. Usually it is used if you have a problem with fuel lines freezing. http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl677e.ht m | ||
| Kenm123t |
Check out Aircraft Spruce what you what is Known as sloshing compound. Its how you reseal aircraft fuel tanks. I would not weld the tank its coated inside you will burn off the coating and the alchol in fuel will eat the aluminum of the tank. You will have to remove the fuel pump assembly it would be best to remove the frame so it can be rotated to coat all areas of the tank. Check for compatability with the epoxy based puttys to repair the cosmetics and repaint to match. Sealing isnt hard just the prep | ||
| Kenm123t |
If you have it welded and are worried about stress risers stop drill them and weld up. if your going to weld it dont use water use argon fed through the drain line it will serve two purposes 1 prevent fire EXPLOSIONS etc 2 its the gas for the tig welder it wil keep the back of weld from o2 contamination. and the coating inside the tank wont burn. And then no alcohol to corrode and or dissolve fuel system parts | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
"If you have it welded and are worried about stress risers stop drill them and weld up." what does stop drilling mean? and you really think i will have to seal the tank on the inside? | ||
| Zac4mac |
I couldn't find any info in the FSM about frame repair. Undoubtedly, there must be a chemical lining, the gas/ethanol mix we run now would devour a bare aluminum tank. This would be a GREAT thread for some ANONY input... Zack | ||
| Hildstrom |
Stop-drilling is drilling a hole on either side of a crack for stress relief. Then you weld the crack and fill in the holes. If you actually do it at the ends of the crack, it should help stop it from growing in the future. Think of it as turning a wishbone into a smooth half circle; it will be harder to pull apart because the stress is spread out. You can still have problems if you don't quite get the tiny end of the crack, which is why some sort of inspection helps. It's tough to say if your crack would grow under normal riding conditions or how much it compromised the strength. Also, how do you know the tank has a coating on the inside? I do not think gasoline or alcohol would do anything to bare aluminum. I did a search for commercial aluminum gas tank products and I could not find any reference to any sort of coating applied to the inside. I did find plenty of repair coating products. Just curious. It's nice to know our frames have an automatic damage detection system though.  (Message edited by hildstrom on April 29, 2010) |
