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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through March 28, 2010 » How come my wheel sprocket bolts keep backing out??? « Previous Next »

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Pizzaboy
Posted on Friday, March 19, 2010 - 06:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i purchased translucent red rims for my bike so i could use the stock blue ones for track tires; putting street tires on the cool red ones.

i bought a new set of brake rotors and a sprocket for the new wheel set so that i just had to swap the wheels really quick and be done.


however i went to the local fastener store to buy the correct size bolt and washer for all of the hardware since i thought it was a little silly to buy $4 each bolts from the stealership.

i used red locktite, and carefully tightened the bolts down on the sprocket with just an allen wrench. i think i remember these wheels being aluminum, so i had no interest in impact wrenching them down.

now they are backing out on me constantly. ive tried putting more red locktite on them before installing every time, but it wont last more than a couple trips around town before the washers are lose again.

what should i do???

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No_rice
Posted on Friday, March 19, 2010 - 07:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

do you really want me to tell you to buy the right bolts?
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Hdwrenchtx
Posted on Friday, March 19, 2010 - 08:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

$4 a bolt is worth the piece of mind to me

make sure you torque them to spec

(Message edited by hdwrenchtx on March 19, 2010)
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Americanmadexb
Posted on Friday, March 19, 2010 - 08:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You may have the right size bolts, but you need to torque them down to spec like Hdwrench said. Tightening them with just the allen wrench is not enough.
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Arcticcr
Posted on Friday, March 19, 2010 - 08:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Don't forget to tighten / torque going diagonally, like you would putting a wheel on a car. Otherwise, the sprocket may reach torque without sitting flat. In addition, you do realize that there are different grades of bolts. Make sure the bolts you got are of the same grade, or you could risk stripping. Better yet, buy the factory ones and call it a day.

(Message edited by arcticcr on March 19, 2010)
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Smoke
Posted on Friday, March 19, 2010 - 08:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

we are talking 25-27 FT-LBs for the rotor and 35-37 FT-LBs for the sprocket.
tim
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1_mike
Posted on Friday, March 19, 2010 - 08:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Aftermarket fasteners are just fine...."IF" they are grade 8's.

And as others have said...an Allan wrench...this IS a joke right?

You need a torque wrench, the correct torque value to torque to and the correct pattern. All the threads NEED to be clean and dry.

Even hand tightened...with the red L.T., they SHOULD have stayed in place.

Make sure "all" of your new screws are of proper length also. Tight at the head (correct) and tight at the end of the threads (wrong) are totally different.

And yes...I have seen people put too long a fastener in..torque in place...and say why is the washer loose....?

Mike
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Dannybuell
Posted on Friday, March 19, 2010 - 08:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

do what the above have stated.

buy some good allen sockets and a torque wrench.

checked your profile, you might try;

Harbor Freight
3800 Kietzke Lane, Reno, Nv
(775) 331-1375

Harbor Freight
2749 North Carson Street, Carson City, NV
(775) 882-1163

There are grade 8 and better buy 8 or better. If you pick chrome bolts use a 'die' (tap and die) to clean the excess plating on the threads. you should also know that there are grade 8 washers too.

(Message edited by dannybuell on March 19, 2010)
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Ron_luning
Posted on Friday, March 19, 2010 - 09:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Buy this: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_009446420 00P?vName=Tools&cName=Auto+%26+Mechanics+Tools&sNa me=Torque+Wrenches#reviewsWrap

and/or the 3/8" drive version.

The OEM pieces are stretch bolts if I'm not mistaken. That means they can only be used once because they stretch out when the correct torque is applied. It doesn't really accomplish much except to allow some more slop in the assembly process. If these bolts you bought are strong enough, then they should work fine once tightened correctly.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Friday, March 19, 2010 - 09:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd have to go to the garage and look...but do the stockers even *have* washers? Or are they just large-diameter heads?

And yes, +1,000,000 on getting the right grade of hardware, and TORQUING them correctly.

And since it hasn't been said yet in this thread - GET THE SHOP MANUAL. If you're going to put tool to bike, you NEED this book. Period. It will go over all the details - how to clean the wheel/sprocket mating surfaces to make sure everything lines up; how to torque the fasteners properly; how to check things like runout and alignment...you name it, it's in there.
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Coolice
Posted on Saturday, March 20, 2010 - 12:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Loctite Blue
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D_adams
Posted on Saturday, March 20, 2010 - 01:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, the stock ones have washers, at least on the 08 model.
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Pizzaboy
Posted on Saturday, March 20, 2010 - 05:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

dangit. im going to have to take this to the next level and use all of the tools i have at my disposal.

i have all above mentioned products. and when i originally installed the sprocket, i used blue locktite and torqued to spec's. it took still almost 1000 miles before they backed out.

the bolts are grade 8
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D_adams
Posted on Saturday, March 20, 2010 - 05:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd say if they're not stretch-to-torque bolts, you're going to keep having problems.
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Dannybuell
Posted on Saturday, March 20, 2010 - 06:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

of all the gall :-)
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Family_buells
Posted on Sunday, March 21, 2010 - 12:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Every bolt stretches when you torque it. Unless you overtorque the bolt, it will return to its original length when you loosen it. If you overtorque it, it will yield and if you are lucky, you wont snap off the head it but it will be permanently stretched and would be no good immediately.

I'm betting that the reason that the factory tells you to use new bolts is not because they stretched out after one use. It's because the thread locking compound that was pre-applied on the bolt is a one-use product and they don't trust the average guy to reapply right thread locking compound and do it properly. It's a basic cya liability issue.

In this case, it does seem as though the heads are a bit smaller than the OEM bolts on my bike. I don't know if that's the root cause of the problem, but I'm going to go with what most have said and say get the factory parts and torque to the spec in the manual.
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Kc10_fe
Posted on Sunday, March 21, 2010 - 01:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ahh the old do it nice or do it twice
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Mikesteel
Posted on Thursday, March 25, 2010 - 01:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok quick question here .... Where could I find the stock bolts for both the sprocket and the disc? Im having real trouble getting the original ones out.
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99buellx1
Posted on Thursday, March 25, 2010 - 01:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

.....a dealer?

I'm sure there are plenty of board sponsors that could make sure you get exactly what you need.
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Froggy
Posted on Thursday, March 25, 2010 - 01:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

They are a pain to remove, I had my dad use an impact gun with the right size bit and they came right off.

New ones can be obtained from your favorite dealer or you can get the front rotor kit from EB Racing
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