| Author | Message | ||
     Rob_l |
Here some swear by it. I use it in the S2R1000 and V11 Sport with no problems but they have dry clutches. And how many miles before the switch to a full syn. Maybe around 3000 miles or so? Thanks Oh have a 09 1125R with 3 miles on the clock. Still too cold to ride here in frozen Michigan but mite get up to near 40 today! | ||
| Moosestang |
These automotive oils don't have the Zddp that motorcycle oils or diesel oils do. To make up for the lack of anti wear agents, they add other catalytic converter friendly things like Moly. Some classic car owners actually use motorcycle oil to get the extra phosphorus and zinc that is missing from modern auto oils. Do a search for flat tappet cams and you'll see they blame modern oils for early cam failures. You will likely get many miles out of your bike using any oil. I'm sure Mobil 1 would tell you to use their vtwin, which is what I use, but you may not have any clutch slippage with the 15w50. | ||
| Chevycummins |
I also use the Mobil 1 vtwin oil in the 1125. Seems to shift smoother with it. Whats the problem with Michigan weather? I've had my bike out 2 times so far, you should have more like 300 miles by now. Almost rode into work today but 15 degrees was just a touch too cold for me.  | ||
| 1_mike |
I just wrote a big ol deal about my "automotive" oil experience and the stinken system dropped it....... So...long story short...I've got three and almost a fourth bike that's got 100,000 miles OR over and soon to be my 03 Yamaha R1 will have this count also...WITH automotive oil. Been using since about 1985. I'll stick with the cheaper stuff until some failure says otherwise. And since my R1 is still running great with great oil milage at well over 98,xxx miles, that tells me the car Mobil 1 oil works just fine. Both my 1125CR and my XB12R...have Mobil 1, 15-50 (the dreaded)...car oil in them. Mike | ||
| Moosestang |
How do you guys get any traction on a frozen road? | ||
| Moosestang |
It was a different oil in 1985. | ||
| Syonyk |
Moosetang: Studded tires! ... really, since I see you're from Florida: The roads freeze up after a storm, but after salt/plows/etc go through, enough of the road is exposed, and they're dark enough that the sun melts the rest of the snow and ice off, so between storms, you typically have dry, clear roads with some sand in the corners. Perfectly ridable, I rode most of a winter in Iowa (the other winters I was in school so was on bicycle more than motorcycle). You just have to be aware that the tires are cold, there's sand in the corners, and people will think you're completely nuts. Down to 20F or so is fairly comfortable without heated gear, colder than that and you want some heated stuff. A guy I ride with out here commutes 100+ miles/day on a BMW through some interesting terrain, he's perfectly comfortable at 0F with heated grips & a heated seat. The major problem I've run into is that at least my 1125R doesn't like to light off below about 20F - it's done it a few times, but makes it very clear that it is not happy with this, and probably doesn't have the fuel mappings for it - it runs very rough in the cold too. | ||
| Hogzilla |
Moosestang, I spun the rear end around a couple weeks ago on cold pavement when leaving a parking lot onto the street. Had to clean the shorts after. 1_mike, Mobile 1 car oil in the bike? Interesting. | ||
| Tpoppa |
Mobil 1 20w50 is very, very, very good oil. Mobil 1 15w50 is very, very good oil. Either will do just fine. | ||
| 1_mike |
Moose - You apparently missed my point/mis-read... My CURRENT R1...with almost 100,000 miles....runs/works fine on "auto" Mobil 1 oil...! Mike (Message edited by 1_mike on March 04, 2010) | ||
| Rob_l |
Hey Chevycummins, I won't ride until after the first rain storms so all the salt and grit get washed away. That may happen this Sunday, so the weather man say. (I'm not that hard core.) So what do you folks say about when its OK to switch to full syn. oil? at the first oil change or second? Thanks for the input. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
Motoman says 1500 miles is a good time to switch to synthetic. I did the first oil change at 60 miles with dino oil. The second oil change will be at 620, also with dino oil. The third oil change will be at 1500 miles, to synthetic. www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Mobil1 15W50 is great for bikes--it has a better viscosity range than 20W50 (slightly easier starts when cold due to 15weight rating) and no wet clutch-impairing friction modifiers. The Extended Performance Mobil1 is rated for 15K miles, but I recommend it because it's guaranteed to be good for a year. Translation--it should have enough additives to keep the contaminants suspended instead of letting them impair lubrication. (Message edited by thefleshrocket on March 04, 2010) | ||
| Moosestang |
No one could possibly miss your point Mike. You are about as subtle as a sledge hammer. | ||
| Ezblast |
Mobil 1 15/50 works just fine! EZ | ||
| Rob_l |
Hey Fleshrocket, thanks for the motoman break in link good usable info. I'll try it his way makes allot of sense. | ||
| Blur |
I've been using Mobil 1 15W-50 every since my R6 got past 1500 miles and plan to do the same thing in my CR. At 200 miles I changed to Valvoline dino oil, I'll do the same at 600-700 then to the Mobil 1 15W50 at about 1500. And to the original question, when I switched the oil in my brothers bike to 15W50 the shifts were noticably smoother. That was the first thing I noticed when I took it out when I was done, it was that much better. (Message edited by blur on March 04, 2010) | ||
| Jeepinbueller |
So I was going to get Syn3 for my 620 change coming up, but I don't wanna' have to run out over an hour to the nearest dealership for it (I already got my drain bolt washers and filter element from American Sport Bike). Plus the cost. We're talking about just regular 'ole Mobil 1 15W-50 dino oil, correct? Then at 1,500 I'll change over to 15W-50 full-synth. I know it gets kicked around and monotonous, but I think the reason we always kick this dead horse because it's the blood of our engine ... most people introduced to a new engine just wanna' make sure it's right, especially on the first change. Thanks | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
No prob, Rob! Jeep, Mobil1 15W50 is synthetic, not conventional. Motoman doesn't recommend switching to synthetic until 1500 miles and that's worked well for me. I recommend Mobil Clean 5000 10W40 conventional oil for the break-in period. I wouldn't trust it for long term since it's a dino 10W40 but it should have no problems covering 1000 miles (one oil change at ~40 miles, another at 620, then synthetic at 1500, so dino is in there for less than 1000 miles at a time) before it breaks down very much. | ||
| 2009cr |
My CR left the dealership with Syn3 in it. I hope this isn't a problem. I was going to switch to Mobil 1 in the spring. Maybe I should dump the Syn3 and run dino for a while. What do you think... to late anyway. | ||
| Blur |
I think all our bikes had Syn3 when they left the dealer. I put a Valvoline conventional oil for my first change and I'll do it again in a few hundred miles. Mainly, because that's what I found at Wal-mart that was conventional but not synthetic. After 1500 its Mobil 1 15W50 full synthetic for a long long time. I've had great experience with this oil in my other bikes and I have no reason to try something different. | ||
| Jeepinbueller |
Deleted (Message edited by jeepinbueller on March 05, 2010) | ||
| Zac4mac |
No, they left the factory with HD 360 Dino 20W-50 in them. Syn3 ONLY comes in new HD CVO bikes when new, ALL others leave with Dino oil. Zack | ||
| Rob_l |
Will i'll be dipped, I thought the R came with Syn3 also. Cause the manual suggests it as the preferred oil. Good old HD marketing! | ||
| Chameleon |
I had to change the oil 2,000 miles early last time I used Syn3. That sh*t started separating. I put the Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 Motorcycle Oil in and my bike feels/performs much better. | ||
| Blake |
"That sh*t started separating. " Huh? Please elaborate. I'm thinking you may have had some water in your oil. Not the oil's fault. | ||
| Chameleon |
Probably so, but I don't know how or where it would have come from. In fact, I thought I had a bad seal and coolant got in the oil because the oil level read overfull, the fluid appeared very thin when I checked it hot, and there was a sweet smell to the fluid on the dipstick, but no milky or cloudy appearance. The shop towel showed only a tiny bit of oil and the rest of the fluid on the dipstick seemed to be water. Additionally, the bike was suddenly getting pretty hot and running rough just before I got home from work... 198 F with ambient temps in the mid 40s. I had the dealer pick it up to investigate. They had it for more than a week and when I called to check on it, they said it was fine and I could pick it up any time. Said they road tested it and checked the fluids and all seemed well. It's been a bit over 500 miles since changing the oil and it's running rougher again; I haven't checked the dipstick, but when I do I hope I don't find the same sweet smell and watery appearance. | ||
| Blake |
Checking oil level can be a sensitive ordeal with the 1125. If you deviate from the prescribed procedures, results can vary widly. 198oF isn't too hot, right in the desired operating range (140oF to 220oF). Sometimes the dipstick can collect condensation in cold weather. Wipe it clean and dry and reinsert to check oil level. Hope all is well. Here's some good information concerning synthetic oils ... http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/1034/good -synthetic-lubricant http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/1290/synt hetic-conventional-oils http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/1317/synt hetic-oil-choice http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/686/synth etic-lubricants-automotive (Message edited by blake on March 10, 2010) | ||
| 2009cr |
Thanks Blake... great site. Very good info and not just that Amsoil flap either. | ||
| Hughlysses |
No, they left the factory with HD 360 Dino 20W-50 in them. Syn3 ONLY comes in new HD CVO bikes when new, ALL others leave with Dino oil. Zack- My dealer also told me the same thing about my CR- that it came with Syn3 from the factory. I know dealers aren't necessarily the most reliable source for Buell info, but have you got a bulletin or something that confirms the dyno from the factory? Thanks in advance. Another good general oil info site is www.bobistheoilguy.com They have a very good forum; people have posted hundreds of Used Oil Analyses (UOA's) documenting real world test data for various oils in various vehicles. | ||
| Hootowl |
From the 1125 owner's manual "Refer to Recommended Engine Oils. Buell recommends using Screamin' EagleŽ SYN3 Synthetic Motorcycle Lubricant when adding or changing oil. If SYN3 is not available and addition of motor oil is required, H-D 360 SAE 20W50 may be used." Why would Buell recommend SNY3 over HD360 and then fill the bikes with HD360 at the factory? Makes no sense. |
