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Ezblast
Posted on Wednesday, August 21, 2013 - 01:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29 9597
EZ
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Jgeating
Posted on Friday, February 07, 2014 - 07:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Anyone know the part number for a front axle nut for a 2006 Blast? Also, I can't seem to find a parts manual anywhere online to download. There used to be a russian site that has since broken.

Thanks!
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Shagg1970
Posted on Friday, February 07, 2014 - 08:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You can Buy a service and parts manual at the dealer or possibly on ebay. Downloading The manual is theft.
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Tarpot
Posted on Friday, February 07, 2014 - 11:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jgeating: on a more helpful note, the part number you need is D1600.1FXZ. It's a standard Harley part, an M16 x 1.5 zinc hex bolt.

EZ may be able to help you find a parts manual-- suggest you PM him.

Tarpot

(Message edited by tarpot on February 07, 2014)
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, February 08, 2014 - 12:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And speaking of criminal theft, it was a crime that HD shut down Buell. They don't deserve to make one dime from the sale of Buell manuals!

An aside: not to open old wounds, given what's currently happening in the motorcycle world and HDs India endeavours, HD could have been a much bigger player and secured long term profitable viability if they had kept Buell. But (allegedly) Egos had something to do with poor decisions (imagine, egos and HDs!!).
Trading off American made sport bikes to produce Harley's made in Asia???!!!! It's okay, they're not real Harley's, since they're not ' big twins' and they'll never be fully accepted (or at all)!!!
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Jgeating
Posted on Saturday, February 08, 2014 - 05:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ugh, curses on Buell for designing their bikes with mixed units. Back when I thought the Blast used only english hardware, I had bought two different english nuts I thought were correct. Thanks Tarpot, I'll probably just get the nut directly instead of ordering from HD.

Shagg1970, thanks for letting me know. I actually did't know that. I just bought one off ebay, which I will definitely be using quite a bit based off my past history with this bike.
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Chief_ten_bears
Posted on Saturday, August 30, 2014 - 10:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Question time... Shinko oversized rear.... Does it fit without pounding on the swingarm?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, August 30, 2014 - 11:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't know, but why bother with a Shinko when a better Pirelli is available for a bargain price?!
Also-what size Shinko? (As if it mattered)

(Sorry, that's not helpful, but I can't help but ask)
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Chief_ten_bears
Posted on Sunday, August 31, 2014 - 12:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

140/70r16 Shinko SR568

Why? Because the Shinko is literally 1/2 the price. I can buy 2 for every 1 Pirelli ST66...

Pirelli is probably better granted, but I'm not out for top performance. That's what the CBR is for. A good overall tire is what I'm after, and for $50 a tire, I'm intrigued by the Shinko, only if it fits without taking a hammer to a perfectly good working motorcycle, though...
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, August 31, 2014 - 12:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And that's probably what you'll get. You'll wear out 2 Shinko's for 1 ST66. Or maybe 3 Shinko's.
My experience with Shinko's is that they wear out really fast. My comment had less to do with performance and a lot more about wear (Yes, I get the whole CBR thing).
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, August 31, 2014 - 12:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Shinko - $55
Pirelli - $85
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Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, August 31, 2014 - 02:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

3 shinko for 1 ST66 - I've watched this guy on other forums - brain surgery is not his long suit - lol - whatever dude.
EZ
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Chief_ten_bears
Posted on Sunday, August 31, 2014 - 10:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Canada... ST66 is $100. Shinko is $55...

Why does it bother you guys so much what kind of tire someone wants for their motorcycle, and is asking if anyone had an experience with said tire? For god sakes, you even have the SR568 listed in your Blast FAQ... Look, this site is great, packed full of info and help and good stuff, but you guys need to relax.

Gearhead... Thank you, you are always a good help. I was simply curious if the SR568 fits in an oversized without hammering.

EZ... I said "literally 2", not 3. I'm not a brain surgeon, but you can't even read, "dude". Whats your problem?



(Message edited by Chief_ten_bears on August 31, 2014)
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Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, August 31, 2014 - 03:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm trying to tell you that tire will last 3 times as long, sorry I was harsh, but I'm in disbelief that you ignored Erik as well - I'm used to me being ignored, but Erik is a very conservative helpful guy - why blow him off? We are trying to help here. Why ask - if you are just going to discard what we say. Both of us have been at this forever, and if he tells you the other tire is the better deal - I'd listen - that's all.
EZ
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Kenny_gilgore
Posted on Sunday, August 31, 2014 - 05:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Erik & Ed,

Please don't be offended, but I think that you are wasting your time with some of the new people.

They are going to crash and burn before they will listen to the good advice they can get on the forum(s). With some people that is how they learn and we just have to hope the crash doesn't cripple or kill them.

My 2 cents worth.

Kenny G
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Vsingle
Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2014 - 04:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How do you get the front brake caliper clear of the wheel and brake rotor to change a front tire?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2014 - 04:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Spread the pads before unbolting. Then unbolt the caliper. It only comes out through the holes part, not the spokes. You may have to force it slightly (slightly). Believe it or not, you can get the wheel off without un bolting the caliper!! (But it won't go back on that way!)
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Vsingle
Posted on Wednesday, September 03, 2014 - 12:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I need clarity. What is "holes part"?
Also, what is the best way to spread the pads?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, September 03, 2014 - 02:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The space between the "spokes". Or spin the wheel, it will only come out in certain sections of the wheel.

Use a screwdriver to spread the pads. Gently, you dont want to wreck the pads or warp the rotor. Maybe 10 seconds to spread them.

(Message edited by gearheaderiko on September 03, 2014)
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Vsingle
Posted on Wednesday, September 03, 2014 - 10:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Okay, thanks for the tips. Surprising the spoke aren't evenly spaced. Maybe its just casting variation? Or are the spokes designed at some other angle than 72 degrees?
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Bumblebee
Posted on Monday, December 29, 2014 - 12:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So, while we are on the subject of wheels and things - here is something worth a check, so this doesn't happen to you.


Rear Wheel Bearing - less balls!


This motorcycle has been on ongoing project for, I have had this thing completely disassembled...it was a Riders Edge training bike I bought off eBay..but I digress. All complete I took it on a ride down the freeway this weekend, as I rode it sounded like something was occasionally dragging on the road..like a center stand or something like that. (Blasts don't have one, but it was that sort of sound.) Each time it occurred there was a slight hesitation, not the engine, is was running just fine - something was wring but what?
Once at my destination I gave the bike a good look over, nothing even remotely dragging. After I headed back the noise got worse and happening with more frequency. Then the bike felt like it was having a flat tire. I stopped to investigate; both tires (brand new BTW) were just fine everything looked good, then I spotted it! Issue traced to the right hand wheel bearing having disintegrated spitting all it's balls out on the road. If you look at the photo there are only a few balls left in the bearing. This could have been bad.


2007 Blast


A photo of the bike, it's only got 1500 miles, so it wasn't a high mileage failure at all.

Just something to check. Most likely an isolated case, but it went from "no problem" to "big problem" in less than a miles distance.

New bearings on order - $14 from All Balls Racing. The blast will be blasting in no time.
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Blueblast
Posted on Monday, December 29, 2014 - 10:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Glad you listened to your intuition and checked it out before it took you out.
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Ezblast
Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 04:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The wheel was not torqued correctly - causing failure - happens with tire changes by folks not paying attention to torque spec.s.
EZ
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Absolutezerofun
Posted on Saturday, December 19, 2015 - 06:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Looking for some assistance. I recently replaced my front brakes but now it seems after they are engaged they do not want to retract properly. They make it difficult to push the bike around. I have already cleaned all the gunk out of the master cylinder... Does anyone have any other steps I should take.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, December 19, 2015 - 01:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"Cleaned all the gunk out of the master cylinder" huh? How did you accomplish this? That sounds like a good way to foul up the master cylinder.

As far as the brake pads not retracting, it sounds like an assembly problem or the brake pads are wrong.
Did you push the piston back into the caliper? Did you get the piston cockeyed in the bore?
If you crack the bleeder screw that should release the pads, if everything is working properly. But having to do that isn't normal either.
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Absolutezerofun
Posted on Saturday, December 19, 2015 - 04:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

First I pulled all the brake fluid out of the master cylinder then proceeded to clean the reservoir of all the things that were not brake fluid. After that I put new brake fluid in and bled the breaks to make sure no air got into the line. As for the brake pads they are the right ones and yes I pushed the Pistons back in both pistons are straight. The brakes work no problem its getting them to retract a bit so the arn't rubbing the rotor.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, December 19, 2015 - 11:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The pads will rub the rotor, but if you're having a difficult time pushing the bike, then you have a problem.

PS. It's not advisable to intentionally and completely drain a brake system unless you are going to disassemble it. Your procedure has greatly increased the possibility of damage to seals and check valves.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, December 20, 2015 - 08:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Also, did you use the same grade/type brake fluid?
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Ezblast
Posted on Saturday, September 07, 2019 - 08:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

https://www.bikebandit.com/tires-tubes/motorcycle- tires/pirelli-angel-scooter-tire/p/60362
Nice in the 140 and 110 70x16 size.
EZ
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Missionbolts
Posted on Sunday, September 08, 2019 - 10:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The entire time I've been on the Blast, I've been running a matching pair of Shinko 244 front tires, the 3.00-16. I was planning on rotating the tires when the rear wears down. These tires require tubes, which I ignored. Been just fine without tubes. Plus, someone punched a bunch of holes in the sidewall of the rear tire, and I've been riding it like that with just a dollar store tire plug, about 5 months now. That's why I changed my mind about rotating the tires. Tire seems to hold a plug fine, I wouldn't want to deal with tubes out in the forest. On pavement handling is just fine. I grind my footpegs at 60 without the slightest sign of traction issues. But I think cornering forces feel bigger when I do that in 3rd gear, pushing from 35 up to 40 while in a 25(bouncing off of the footpeg). Only downside is a whining sound that's a lot like bad wheel bearings. It's just the air pockets in the tread making noise at speeds above 40 https://www.bikebandit.com/tires-tubes/motorcycle- tires/shinko-244-motorcycle-tire/p/9877
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