| Author | Message | ||
     Rustyballz |
hey guys i need to jump in here and say that i've been having the same problem, but i have a vance and hines exhaust, as soon as i let off the exhaust i get some harsh popping and backfiring noises(only while i'm riding, not when i'm in neutral). this is my first bike and i have done limited work, so i need to know where is the Idle mixture screw and how do i adjust it if that is what i need to do? Also i am thinking of adding the pro-series air intake as i mentioned in the blast customization thread, and i was wondering if there is anything that i am going to have to adjust or calibrate after doing so? Something about jetting? | ||
| Bikediver |
Update, After more careful observation, I realize I'm popping on letting off the throttle on the way home from work and not on the way too work. There is typically a 20-30F temp swing. I'm concluding the carb settings are on the edge and only giving minor problems on hot days. Will uncork the idle adjust at the next opportunity, but I don't see it as an urgent fix. | ||
| Rockbiter1 |
Jetting needs to be corrected Rusty, I put a 45 slow jet in, helped stop most of the popping, and i put a .030" washer under the needle, should be interesting to see what that will do (WHEEEEE). Drilled the anti-tamper plug, reset mix screw to 2.5 turns out from soft bottom. I will fine tune that after i get my Blast back togeather. I just need my new intake boot now...and figure out an easy (lazy) method to brace my pro-series intake (no complaints at all with that btw...) | ||
| Rustyballz |
hey rockbiter, do you know what kind of horse power gain you get from the pro-series air intake? Is it worth the time and money?  | ||
| Ezblast |
By itself none - in conjunction with a free flowing exhaust - you may be adding one - its really all about helping your engine breath better. Better for engine longevity, power, etc. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Rockbiter1 |
time? a 30-45 min to install. Money? $80 is the cheapest you'll ever pay for an aftermarket intake. Value? Better performance, better appearance, better (K&N) filter It is a package deal, if you put on a free flow intake, you need to put on a new pipe, or you don't see any gains. You are not really "gaining" the power, but allowing the engine to produce what its supposed to. The stock stuff really chokes the motor. I have not had the bike dyno'd before/after, but will get it dyno'd by the end of the summer. the bike performs miles away better than the stock config, if you jet the carb properly to compensate for better air flow. You will run much too lean if you don't rejet. edited by rockbiter1 on July 19, 2004 | ||
| Rustyballz |
biter--- as for putting on a new pipe, i'm already running a vance and hines exhaust that was on the bike when i bought it, so will that work? | ||
| Rockbiter1 |
I happen to really like the V&H, though most on this site prefer other brands. I ran a v&H for 4 years, loving every minute. About to put a torque cone in the Pro Series to see what happens...(btw, i really liked a torque cone in the V&H...that was a real kick in the pants!) | ||
| Ezblast |
Rockbiter1 - whats your jetting? - curious - ya know - lol GT -JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Rockbiter1 |
Well, this is kinda funny...i rejetted my 04 FXD (from 45 to stealer recommended 48) when i installed the SE air cleaner kit. So, out of curiosity, i took apart my Blast's carb, and found the slow jet was the same style as the FXD's, but it was a 42. I took the 45 from my FXD, and dropped it into my Blast. Rejetted both bikes for about 4 bucks  I've shimmed the needle with a .030 washer, not sure if it did anything, measured the vent hole in the slide, and re drilled one wire drill size higher (not much of a diffrence, but its a slightly larger hole now, supposed to quicken throttle responce. I did NOT drill to the 1/8in like the carb tuneing sites say. I'm trying this for a while, and if i need to i can always increase the hole size a bit more later.) set my idle mix screw to about 2.5 turns from soft bottom, as suggested. I really need to get it on a dyno to see what it is really doing, not quite satisfied with the felt torque, but i think that the addition of the torque cone (off ebay, $25) will work wonders. All the exaust popping has dissapeared (i've been running stock jetting, way way lean, since i got the bike and V&H, and it always made loud deceleration popping noise, now i know the error of my ways.) I think i'll try a bigger main jet next, when i think about ordering one from my dealer (its still stock) I'll keep you updated! edited by rockbiter1 on July 21, 2004 edited by rockbiter1 on July 21, 2004 | ||
| Rustyballz |
what's a torque cone? | ||
| Rockbiter1 |
a torque cone (torque stuffer) is a stainless steel venturi that fits bettween exaust port and header. It gives a bit of flow restriction, raising torque. Especially noticeable in drag pipes, worked very well in V&H pipe, havn't ridden the Blast with the Pro-series + torque cone yet. I installed it tonight, had to "port and polish" the inside of the pro series to propperly fit the cone, the pro series pipe is NOT very neatly made, the welds are ugly, and you can see many clamping marks from the bending machine. I was supprised when i got a close look at the low quality finish the pro series pipe has. Of course, it functions beautifuly, but for 210, i think they could have spend a couple extra meinutes making sure it looked right. here is a ebay sale of a similar torque cone (i got mine from this guy) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2484848439&categor y=43978 | ||
| Ezblast |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/16474.html?1076090808 GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Rockbiter1 |
that may be true EZ, but i will tell you right now, when i had the torque cone in my old V&H, the bike felt like it had significantly more power. They are most effective in drag pipe style systems where there is little backpressure. (like the V&H) Increase backpressure slightly, and you gain torque. concept as old as time (or internal combustion engines at least YMMV, TANSTAAFL | ||
| Ezblast |
My dune buggy drag racing friends swear by them for adding a few ftlbs to the bottom and bottom middle but took a bit from the top in exchange - that was on VW type 4 engines doing 1/8th mile sand drags where the top doesn't matter as much,and on an ignition controlled top speed of 95 I guess you could loose a few ponies and still hit it easy as the the stock set up would and have a little extra on the bottom - the WB comes with one, suggests advancing the timing 4 degrees - no jetting change and use all 12 discs - and sugests a 3/5 hp/tq gain on their dyno, but with a fat torque curve - almost max from the first all the way to the end, my curve is very simular, however, my top end gains where more percentage wise - I used jetting, and a total of 23 discs to achieve that using dyno's from the KV dyno section and some questions for NHRS, and dyno runs, and friends to dial that in. Still WB is one of the best performance pipes out there for a lot of bikes - they know their stuff and if they recommend a torque cone, there must be something to it. I figure it may probably work the way my VW buddies suggest, but I didn't want to sacrifice top end torque for bottom, so I went a different route and found a comparable answer without the sacrifice. Whats the old saw - '...There are different ways to power...' - lol Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Darthane |
Question, without having done much in the way of homework on this yet. Could rich jetting cause the bike to bog when i give it a good handful of throttle? It never used to do this before the addition of the Pro-Series exhaust and intake and a rejet (I believe that it is now a 45/180, but I'm unsure as Spidy did the jetting for me and I also do not know how many turns out the enrichener screw is). I plan on pulling the spark plug to take a look at it sometime in the next few days, but the bike only has a couple hundred miles on it since the change. | ||
| Ezblast |
If its bogging at/near your shift points then yes, if its just taking off - air mix screw, However, a last thought - if your primary is too tight - in other words you actually followed the manual, instead of the advice offered here, your motor will act gutless, bog, and even have a hard idling problems on extreme cases - might want to check that first;0) GT - JBOTDS! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on August 09, 2004) | ||
| Darthane |
Well, it's generally most noticeable when I'm taking off, but it will bog like that any time I grab a good fistful of throttle. I'll retorque the primary according to the 'BadWeb' recommended spec when I remove the cover to get at that detente plate screw. I only the the 4 1/2 flats thing, but the bogging problem was occurring before and after the primary tensioning. | ||
| Ezblast |
Throttle cables mis-aligned, fuel level on float too low, enricner valve not seating or leaking, intake boot leak/or vacuum plug, plugged bowl vent or overflow, basically a gumed up carb - did you drain your fuel, and run out the carb, or did you put stabilizer in the gas and run it a bit (gumming) - maybe something to do with putting the bike up for the winter - or the low float level sounds likely as well - you say you just rejetted, and just brushing the float can tweek alignment - I know that too well - lol - the main could be rich but unless your running Denso they would soon foul on any good higher speed run, would seem like your loosing your top end, and then die/fouled. GT - JBOTDS! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on August 10, 2004) | ||
| Kdk102 |
i have an 01 blast that had a V&H exhaust and i blew the end off it so i decided to go with some thing stronger went with a pro series now it acts like it is running out of gas was told that the carb has been re-jeted and also tried replacing the air intake with the pro series hoping to fix the problem but it still is doing it i bought plugs i am going to try that first thing if i have to mess with the carb ill have to take it in thay do not like me. | ||
| Ezblast |
What is your primary at? Your main? How many turns out is your air screw? - See the above post for other ideas - you both seem to have simular problems after rejetting - therefore the carb work should be the first suspect - its real easy to tweek the float just by brushing it with your hand while working in the area - that easy - heck I've gone through 3 floats myself - lol - Keep us posted on what you find the cause to be. Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Darthane |
Heh...joy...never done carb work before! -=starts printing Blast manual=- I WILL look into this this weekend. Christ, not being at home for 9 months really makes the crap pile up! | ||
| Swampy |
Darthane, Welcome back, I had a great trip to Copper Harbor. Too bad you couldn't make it. I have been having problems with back firing through the exhaust when riding at high speeds steady throttle, more noticable after running like 80 then running steady throttle back down in the 65-70 range. I am thinking too rich, any other ideas out there? This is the Big Kids bike with 48 primary, 175 main, shimmed needle and idle screw turned out and a Kerker exhaust. | ||
| Ezblast |
Too rich - the Kerker responds best at 165 or 170 with 45 primary - if you cut off the crossover and mount directly to the header then your jetting will go up to 175/180, and 45/46 primary - the cross over tube acts like a torque valve with the result being that it will only perform as well as a 1 5/8" header exhaust with most of the power in the bottom and mid - top - eh - still more than stock though. Hope that helps! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Bluelightning |
Quick question about Blast Carb. A friend of mine just recently bought a 2003 Blast that had 537 mile on it. She now has around 1800 miles (only 1 month later for a newbie rider!!) She had taken it back to the stealer for a carb problem and 1000 mile service. They claimed that the slide diaphram had a hole in it causing her idle woes. Keep in mind that this is a new bike that had never been touched before. Her warranty is supposed to expire in about 1 month, and she and I have noticed a "lug" in performance when the bike is shifted from 1st to 2nd. I am thinking of re-jetting to a 45 low and either a 175 or 180 fast jets. I will also rework the slide. Her exhaust is stock for now, but we are looking for alternatives. Is there anything else that could be going on??? Also, the bike seems to idle really low after the service, around what RPM is the Blast supposed to idle at? | ||
| Newblaster |
1st to 2nd problem--could be the speed when shifted. The manual "shift points" aren't good for much except familiarizing yourself with the "dead spot" in the midrange on a stocker. Try running it up higher before you shift (about 25-27 mph). Going richer on the pilot is a good idea if you aren't at high altitude. 45 is a good choice. Shouldn't need a richer main until you upgrade the exhaust (and intake). For the low idle after the service, it could be either primary tensioner or idle adjustment screw, both have been adjusted wrong after servicing at a dealership. Run a search in the thumper KV, you'll find all the info you wanted (and maybe more... lol...) There may be things I'm forgetting, in which case the more experienced wrench-spinners here will chime in... Hope that helps. | ||
| Ezblast |
Keep your main to 170 till you get an exhaust on, 45 primary - low idle could be due to primary too tight - See spec. section of TKV for different ways to adjust- NewBlaster has the gist right, you need to also adjust your air mixture screw to 2 1/2 turns out, if you replace your primary jet to 45. Do a little reading in the regular KV as well for some advanced tricks - lol - sounds like your on your way - GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Kdk102 |
hay guys i had a friend pull my carb and check the jetting and i found out that the slow jet was a 42 but when they changed the exhaust they did put a 170 main in it i am putting a 45 slow in and was hoping to get some info on what to do with the main on a blast with a pro series intake and exhaust??? | ||
| Kdk102 |
well i changed the jetting to a 45 slow 180 main and i still have the annoying power loss at random times i was cruising about 45mph and it just pops and hesitates and keeps on running i replaced the boot a couple weeks ago since i blew it apart and i think when i was working on it i may have torn the new one so i replaced it any one have any possible explienations i have braced but i am looking for better methods and look forward to any help you can give me. | ||
| Ezblast |
180 too rich - go down to 175. Make sure plug and plug wire are tight. Your tank venting system may be messing with you - crimp /damaged hose, or partially clogged vent - your bracing may be causing the boot damage - especially just 1 brace because force will be most active at the bracing point - notice how many attachment points the air box has to the bike and the area they are located at, and how the airbox distributes the forces applied to it enough for you to even hug it with your knee without hurting the boot for many, many miles without damage ( though they are rubber - I change mine with the oil as a matter of course). These are the main things to check however an old battery will also mess with you. GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
