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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, February 05, 2017 - 10:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nice!
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Swampy
Posted on Tuesday, February 07, 2017 - 10:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Looking good EZ!
Jetlee, I'm getting all drooly over the XB Blast!
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Tuesday, February 07, 2017 - 10:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

HE IS ALIVE!!!
Did you pop out of hibernation for a moment to look for your shadow?
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Swampy
Posted on Thursday, February 23, 2017 - 11:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

LOL!
I try to pop in every now and again.

I have had the pleasure of NOT shoveling snow for once, and with the great weather the blood thirsty Canadians have stayed in their own area and have ceased with their assaults on the border we have been so furiously protecting all these years, this lull in the normal activities has given me time to plant more magic beans.
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C3powil
Posted on Thursday, March 16, 2017 - 08:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Erik has already helped me out a bunch with my '03 blast. Here is a pic of it.



Should be getting in some superbike bars today!
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C3powil
Posted on Thursday, March 16, 2017 - 12:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The PO said I have a base gasket leak, but it really doesn't look like that at all. Maybe a head gasket or pushrod related gasket.



Here is a crack on my exhaust that I am planning to repair with a bit of exhaust tape. I wonder how much power it is robbing me.



Leaky fork seal. Can it be cleaned up as opposed to replaced?



Here's the left side of my bike. Just making sure everything looks okay.

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Crackhead
Posted on Tuesday, March 21, 2017 - 03:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You will keep cracking that exhaust since it is unsupported and you risk damaging the head by pulling the studs out.
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C3powil
Posted on Wednesday, March 29, 2017 - 06:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's actually supported! Hard to see in the pics, but there is a welded piece under the pipe right where the footrest is.

Ive been contemplating doing the easy exhaust pipe mod, however.
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Crackhead
Posted on Friday, March 31, 2017 - 09:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

C3powil,
Supported by the engine or by the foot peg arms? It should be supported by the engine becasue the engine moves independently of the frame.
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Muddhorn
Posted on Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 12:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I need help relocating velocity stack off carb to get better air then behind my leg. Any idea, or does it run ok with the air filter there. Does anyone have an idea for a 90 degree bend to bring air filter up by cylinder, HELP}
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, April 13, 2017 - 01:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/6812.html?1462159418
Read.
EZ
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Styxnpicks
Posted on Thursday, April 20, 2017 - 07:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

blew my 515cc xb blast up last night. I think its the same piston failure eriko had. I was a tad rich and I was too aggressive with timing. ran good for 40 miles tho
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Crackhead
Posted on Monday, April 24, 2017 - 03:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Styxnpicks, that we better then the dufus did that had the parts bike berfore me. He jetted DOWN when he put on the 515 kit and V&H exhaust.
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Styxnpicks
Posted on Tuesday, May 02, 2017 - 07:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I was using a innovate motorsport mtx-l wideband to verify jet changes. bike was running 12.6:1 idle. little rich 11.5:1 at cruise. noless than 13.6:1 when you first crack the throttle.. 12.5: wot at redline


so I did pull the motor apart. the oem xb valve retainer cracked in half at 7700rpm and dropped the exhaust valve
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Joel2497
Posted on Thursday, May 04, 2017 - 10:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How much oil does the frame of the blast hold I know it
Holds 2.0 liters but how much goes just in the frame.
I want to delete the reservoir from the frame and make
A reservoir to put in the empty space of the air intake. Then put a bigger gas tank, now there's will be drilling
Aloud on the frame for new bigger gas tank. Plz help me here iv been brakeing my head over this.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, May 04, 2017 - 10:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

.5 qts in the engine 1.75 in the frame (more or less), but it doesn't much matter. The engine needs (as a guess-considering the low mark in the dipstick) a minimum of 2 qts total. So your tank should hold 1.75 qts minimum. You can use any size tank bigger than that. Bigger is better and if your Blast uses a lot of oil, having a safety margin of more than 8oz would be nice!!
If you have the opportunity, run the Blast until hot and have the oil at the full mark. Then drain it hot immediately. That will verify what I just told you.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, May 04, 2017 - 10:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

PS to styxnpix, I just think it was just a bad piston design and you got one of the bad ones. I've yet to hear of a 10.5:1 non 515 piston failing from 'normal' use. They have obviously been quite forgiving. The 515 wasnt. I know people have been running the non 515 hi comp Pistons with disregard to proper jetting and there doesn't seem to be the failure rate the 515's had.

My 515 ran great for about 500 miles before ring landing failure. A fraction of what the 'regular' 10.5 ran.
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Cherrypoptart
Posted on Wednesday, May 17, 2017 - 04:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I lowsided my Blast. Hit some gravel in a turn and before I knew it I was picking up my bike : ( Worth fixing it? Back plastics are pretty bent and scratched up, mirrors broke, forks are twisted, and it seems to be leaking something (oil? It's for sure leaking from the drain plugs, but that is probably just because they are loose)...

















Plastics aren't too bad a fix, but the leak is what has me a bit concerned. Thinking I'll probably end up just getting a new bike. Too bad : (
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Kwkride
Posted on Wednesday, May 17, 2017 - 04:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's too bad. The important this is that you're OK. (I assume you are, since you didn't mention being injured.)
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, May 18, 2017 - 12:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Must've hit hard to tweak the back like that. Leaks might just be from it laying on its side. Forks might be twisted, but not bent. Even slightly bent, they're still usable.
The back subframe can be twisted back into workable shape and the plastics shimmed to perfection. Fly screen brackets bend back easily.
Blasts take crashes very well and often aren't that expensive to get road worthy. Your choice will be how close to perfection do you want it to look.
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Thumped
Posted on Saturday, May 20, 2017 - 07:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

INCONSISTENT START
hey guys, been having trouble with the start of the blast. no turn over when I pressed electric switch, so I opened it up and cleaned it out. Started a few times, but then intermittently. Now, it won't click or anything unless I pop the clutch, and then it will jolt and sometimes start. New battery, all lights on, kickstand up, in neutral, etc.
Is this a clutch switch issue? I'm trying to sell and need her start at least.}
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, May 21, 2017 - 12:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Flip the clutch diode. DONT use the kill switch, use the key for shut off.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, May 21, 2017 - 12:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Clutch Diode safety switch link: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/55319.html
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Blastless
Posted on Saturday, May 27, 2017 - 01:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So, I have a 2004 Blast with 245 miles on it. It's history is that some guy bought it for his girlfriend who refused to ride it and it sat in his garage for 7 years until he sold it to some guy who bought it for his wife who used it for the learn to ride course and then never rode it again. When he got thrown in prison and his wife needed quick cash I helped them out thinking I could get it running and turn around and sell it.

I drained the old gas, dismantled the carb and soaked everything in sea foam. When I pulled the carb apart I found the plastic in the vacuum piston had melted and was warped. I also found the plastic encasement that holds the air filter was melted. I don't understand why these would have melted.

Anyway, I put everything back together with a new plug and it won't start. It just cranks away. I finally was able to start it once or twice by spraying starter fluid into the intake but it would backfire often and stop if I didn't keep the throttle open.

Admittedly, I don't really know what I'm doing but would appreciate any help you can offer. Also, I purchased a new vacuum piston for a CV carb and it doesn't fit. My final option will be to take it in for HD service but I'd like to figure this out myself, with your help of course, if possible.
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Th3wizard
Posted on Saturday, May 27, 2017 - 03:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Replace the intake coupler, between the carb and manifold. That should help with the starting issue.
Ignore this next part because I'm blindly guessing. Melted airbox sounds like backfire, valve timing is off or bad spring on intake valve.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, May 27, 2017 - 03:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's got 245 miles on it, it's practically brand new. If the carb is that F'd up, replace it (especially if you've taken it apart and don't know what your doing). Replace it with a KNOWN GOOD Blast carb or a CV carb off a Sportster or Big Twin. Modifying it to work is easy and often a lot cheaper than a Blast carb. You'll need a new #45 slow jet for the Blast carb a big twin carb will come with an appropriate jet (usually).

Remember: this bike has 245 miles it's practically BRAND NEW. CHANGE NOTHING until you find out what problems it actually has than replacing parts willy nilly. It should need nothing (realistically) except the parts damaged from what was probably a backfire induced Fire.
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Slideways
Posted on Wednesday, May 31, 2017 - 11:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How does the 2004 blast carb not have a choke or an accelerator pump. Does it have a computer that runs every thing? The backfire out the carb hot enough to melt the plastic on the slide is a good question. Especially for 245 miles.Timing should be right on. This bike does start with a little carb cleaner sprayed in. It runs good especially on the power band. It pops back through the carb at idle now and then. It idled fast but would adjust down with the screw. No cable hanging anywhere. It would not start cold without a shot of carb cleaner sprayed down the carb. It just seems too lean. I guess adjusting the enricher may help. Got a new coupler coming. Went through the carb checking out the openings. All seemed good. Any other ideas
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, May 31, 2017 - 11:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The intake boot is the major offender of backfires. The Blast is also set lean at the factory. A gas fire in the carb or intake can melt things. It has 245 miles on it, it's brand new. Only replace broken parts, don't take the shotgun approach and start replacing anything and everything.
It has a TPS (throttle position sensor) that controls timing advance and advance crutches between partial throttle and wide ope throttle (WOT). If you messed with the adjustment of that, you've skewed timing.
The "choke" or auto enrichener is non adjustable. It's also only likely to cause a backfire when cold.
It does not have an accelerator pump (it doesn't need one).
The slow jet should be replaced with a #45-very common Harley jet. Stock is a lean #42.

That much damage to the carb, the frequent mis-assembly of the Blast carb, and admitted inexperience tells me to replace it. The Harley CV carbs are very forgiving in tuning. Finding a good Blast barb can be difficult and/or expensive. The short (or long) term solution is to use a regular Harley CV carb. While you may lose out on mpg, it won't have the TPS and autoenrichener issues.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, June 01, 2017 - 12:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

PS high idle is a common sign of a bad boot.
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Slideways
Posted on Thursday, June 01, 2017 - 05:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you use a a Harley CV carb and the timing is controlled by the TPS will it run at All? How can you mess up the TPS? You take it off, there is a little black part that connects to the throttle shaft. It seems foolproof. Is there an adjustable idle mixture screw on this Carb? The carb boot is coming, a #45 jet can be picked up at the local Harley shop. It has been on you tube on how to adjust the enricher so that it runs richer. May put a vacuum gauge on it to see what's up. Timing and valves should be on the money at 245 miles. All the carb passageways blew out nicely. All the gunky stuff appears to be cleaned out of the carb. Above idle it runs great, pulls hard at WOT. Fun feeling scoot.
I look forward to seeing how the new parts and adjustments help out. Bike is in great shape and the owner needs to get in some good road smiles.
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