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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Tuesday, September 22, 2015 - 02:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

9 year old battery=problem. Batteries degrade over time and in a V-rid you would have replaced it a long time ago.

Shinko tires are great if you just need to get a tire on a bike. If all you plan to do is tear them up in the dry corners, they might be good for that too. But for an all purpose tire with longevity in mind, you'll probably end up ditching them before the tread wears out, due to a poor wear pattern. They also wear out Very fast. You get what you pay for.
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Chipmyers
Posted on Tuesday, September 22, 2015 - 05:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Completely agree!! If we did what you do to our blast, would ABSOLUTELY have better tires. But, our blast is ridden primarily by my wife who is trying to get back to riding after brain surgery 2 years ago. When she feels cocky and wants to ride, I am tickled to death to do 40 or 45 miles and hour on our little country roads with her leading the way, purring along on her "Bitching Little Blast' as she calls it.
Just giving EZ my impression of them, not an endorsement by any means. Let me put it this way. Not a bad $40.00 tire, but still a $40,00 tire.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Tuesday, September 22, 2015 - 06:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sorry, I wasn't disagreeing with you. Real world experience is important and that's what you gave.
It's appreciated. You can pass on your experience to others.
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Chipmyers
Posted on Tuesday, September 22, 2015 - 11:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not a problem. First off let me thank all of you guys for all your help. If it wasn't for you smart guys helping all the rest of us (well me)this thing never would be off the stand., not to mention the pointers in the right direction for some upgrades. Just happy to be able to pitch in sometimes.
On a different note. I rode the blast to a local TONUP show and a BUNCH of people asked "What in the world is that?" I have taken my grandpaws a few years, and have become good at talking to people about it, but a buell blast? Out of about 1000 bikes from a Barbarian, a MONSTER V 8 contraption from Australia, to a Zappa scooter in the show. 2 Buell's in the parking. Mine and a thunderbolt. These a good little bikes. Talk em up when you get a chance. Show them off.It was a lot of fun.

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Ezblast
Posted on Wednesday, September 23, 2015 - 05:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nice! Yeah The Blast is becoming rare - a lot sold for parts and not that many made all together. Soon they will be as rare as Vincents. The 2014/15 reviews are way different than the 2013 and prior reviews due to a change in rubber compounds that happened at the end of 2013. If you check the QB/XB forum questions on them - it shows that as well. So really curious is all.
EZ
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Th3wizard
Posted on Thursday, September 24, 2015 - 10:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

While changing out the carb boot a few days ago I noticed some oil and metal shavings all over the inside of the air box, but nothing in the old boot or intake manifold. Any ideas as to what could be causing this?
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Ezblast
Posted on Friday, September 25, 2015 - 05:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

replace old air filter.
EZ

(Message edited by ezblast on September 25, 2015)
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Th3wizard
Posted on Sunday, September 27, 2015 - 11:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

New battery, new boot, new air filter. Still just cranks and cranks but never starts. What should I check next?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, September 27, 2015 - 02:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Is the module LED flashing?

Next: is it getting gas? Check the spark plug for signs of gas and the spark (IF LED is flashing). USE ANITSIEZE ON THE SPARK PLUG THREADS and don't over tighten the plug. You wouldn't be the first person to strip spark plug threads from over use or over torque).
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Th3wizard
Posted on Sunday, September 27, 2015 - 03:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The LED is flashing, but what does that mean? Is that just when it sends a spark?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, September 27, 2015 - 03:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, that is when it's send a spark.
If you have a spare spark plug, use it to test for spark at the spark plug. Just about any spark plug will do, as long as it doesn't have a huge gap. Otherwise remove your Blast plug to check it (check for a gas smell too).
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Noochmahh
Posted on Tuesday, October 13, 2015 - 12:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a 2003 blast looking to sell it. Low low miles always garage kept. Has two issues. Choke doesn't work right. Once you get the bike running and warm runs fantastic and restarts at the tap of the button. Second the bikini fairing is missing. Any offers? Looking to get 800. I live in Bremerton Washington.
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Ezblast
Posted on Wednesday, October 14, 2015 - 03:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cool!
http://stores.ebay.com/TOP-GAITERS-BOOTS/BUELL-LEA THER-SEAT-COVERS-/_i.html?_fsub=4361986016&_sid=66 8506186&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
Seat covers!!!
EZ
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Th3wizard
Posted on Friday, October 16, 2015 - 03:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The old plug wouldn't spark so I bought a denso iridium plug. Still no spark, but led module thing flashes. What next?

Also it has gone back to the starting problem I had at the beginning of summer. One loud click when I press starter button. The solenoid repair kit either failed me or was unneeded and coincidence caused my problem to stop last time.

So here are my issues: one click when starter button pressed, nothing cranks and no ignition module light. Began in may, went away after solenoid repair kit installed (by a mechanic) but has returned. When it does crank it will turn over endlessly, ignition module flashes, but still no spark. When I replaced the battery I got a 200 cca lithium ion to save 10 lbs. Could the batter be too weak?

(Message edited by th3wizard on October 16, 2015)
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, October 16, 2015 - 04:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If the flash at the LED is consistent and not erratic, you should get spark. If the Bank Angle Sensor is bad, you'll get an LED flash and no spark. Key on: Check the BAS for 2 grounds and 1 power lead- that's what you should have. If one of the grounds isn't grounding, the BAS is bad. Connect the 2 grounds together to bypass leave the power alone, it goes nowhere. It's sole purpose is to activate the BAS.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, October 16, 2015 - 04:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

As far as the starter, sounds like a bad or poorly connected cable. The starter could also be bad-a good thunk with a semi hard object might get it going (a hammer might break it, use something non metal and give the starter, not the solenoid, a quick rap).

Also check the safety switches. A bad clutch switch can cause the starter problem. Flip the clutch diode if you haven't already.
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Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, October 18, 2015 - 05:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/150578.html?1444533833
To bypass safeties.
EZ
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Th3wizard
Posted on Thursday, October 22, 2015 - 04:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bypassed safeties, flipped diode, new spark plug, new battery. Tried to start it today and it will not crank, no ignition module lights, no spark. Hitting the starter didn't help. Before taking out safety switches the module would flash when cranking, now it won't do anything. Oh great master blasters, share your dark wisdom!!
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, October 22, 2015 - 05:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Try flipping the diode back.
The kickstand switch wires need to be joined together.
How did you bypass the BAS?
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Th3wizard
Posted on Friday, October 23, 2015 - 12:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I followed the link that EZ gave
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, October 23, 2015 - 12:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have you tried flipping the diode back?
If you've lost the LED, then you've done something wrong. If the engine doesn't crank, how do you know the LED isn't flashing?
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Th3wizard
Posted on Saturday, October 24, 2015 - 01:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I was fed up with this thing while typing up my last post, and wasn't thinking about needing to crank to see the LED. Here is what I did before my last post, and after reading your response.

Kickstand safety: cut two green wires, stripped about a half in on each, twisted wires together and taped as tight as I could.
BAS: cut green and yellow wires, stripped, twisted and taped. Left white/black wire untouched. Did not plug back into the actual sensor.

Tried flipping center diode both ways, still doesn't crank.
Checked wires and tape, re-twisted and taped just in case. Flipped diode both ways, still doesn't crank.

The last time I rode was in July when I traveled 800 miles to Virginia and back again. It hasn't run since my trip so I'm assuming I abused the little bike. I just want it to live once more.

(Message edited by th3wizard on October 24, 2015)
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, October 24, 2015 - 04:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There wasn't any reason to mess with the clutch switch wires if you flipped the diode. I think a lot of your problem may lie there.
Did you bypass the kickstand switch? You have to bypass that or you'd have to bypass the neutral switch.
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Th3wizard
Posted on Saturday, October 24, 2015 - 05:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh I did not mean to say clutch, I meant kickstand. I did not touch clutch wires. Editing above post now.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, October 24, 2015 - 06:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You have to try really hard to abuse a Blast, I doubt that's it. Nothing is making sense as to why it's not cranking over now. Unless you broke the diode.
I'm going to have to trace back your posts, because it's just not making sense.
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Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, October 25, 2015 - 05:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check your battery connections and grounds - front and rear.
EZ
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Ezblast
Posted on Tuesday, December 15, 2015 - 12:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's dead here - behold - three Blasts that terrify! - lol



EZ
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Blueblast
Posted on Tuesday, December 15, 2015 - 01:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

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Th3wizard
Posted on Friday, December 18, 2015 - 06:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Finals week has come to an end so I finally have time to play with the bike. I followed the starter diagnosis flow chart in the service manual(pages 5-5 and 5-6) and it says to replace solenoid. I found a complete starter on eBay and jumped on it. Now I only have one problem, getting the primary cover off, there isn't much instruction for this in the manual. Does the shifter peg stay attached to the cover or do I remove it first? Do I need to open the clutch window thing? Is tranny fluid going to spill all over when I remove the cover? Will removing the cover effect the clutch or cable? I appreciate the help guys.

I jumped the starter and I do have a spark, fuel line was not hooked up so no life yet, but we're getting there!!!
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, December 18, 2015 - 01:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, the shifter needs to come off. Fluid will go everywhere. Find another procedure in the manual that covers primary cover removal, it's all in the manual.
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