| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
PERFECT!  | ||
| Ezblast |
lol | ||
| Lostsurfer1771 |
So as I've been reading more about the MT75 and Diablos, it seems like everyone says the diablo is good in wet and corners and MT75 is better for straight lines. So if I do a bit of both would it be a good idea to get a Diablo front and MT75 rear? Or is it better to go with a set of either? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
NO! You're slightly misinformed. I don't have time to list all the different options of pairing, but what exactly do you want. Cornering, slower or faster turn in, looks, etc? I'd run a mismatched pair, but one mismatch pairing could be horrible in handling! | ||
| Lostsurfer1771 |
I really just want to get the Dunlops off lol. Just trying to figure out all my options. I get the feeling that the mt75s are good but the diablos are really good. I do most of my riding around town (I live in NJ and am still afraid of the Garden State Parkway because no one can drive here). The price difference i'm looking at is about $10 more for diablos so i'm trying to decide lol. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The diablos really arent a far superior tire. I believe them to be equal to the MT75s, but they have different qualities in handling. If you're a new rider, stick with the MT75s. You'll get lots of opinions on what to do based on other people preferences. Stick with the original OE tires (MT75s on later Blasts) and sizes until you find the areas you want to improve. Then make a change. We raced on the MT 75s long before Buell put them on the Blast as OE. They are VERY good tires and as capable as the Diablo's (or more), but to go fooling with tire sizes now could leave you unhappy with your choices. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS not surprising you won't take the Dunlops on the garden state parkway (and that's one of the better roads!) | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - Dunlops hurt! And I'll stick to the over sized - total confidence rush once you figure what they are about. EZ | ||
| Lostsurfer1771 |
I don't really want to be figuring out what the tires are about at this point in my riding career, so I think I should go with the MT75s for now, after those wear down I'm sure I'll be a little more adventurous. Also, I drive 500 miles a week on the GSP and it's terrifying in a Honda Civic let alone on the Blast haha. | ||
| Ecr223 |
Anybody remove their own wheels, to have new tires put on? I have the manual, just want to know how difficult/easy it really is? Also, it says to discard the sprocket washers, and the sprocket bolts... It gives the P/N for the washers, but not the bolts.. So, does anyone know the number, or am I allowed to just disregard that info, and reuse them? | ||
| Ezblast |
Leave sprocket on! EZ | ||
| Ecr223 |
Just trying to follow the manual... But I like this way a lot better...THANKS | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Rear wheel removal and replacement is really, really easy. One of the easiest ever made! Front wheel a little more complicated. But it is important that you use a torque wrench. | ||
| Ezblast |
And the right torque - lol EZ | ||
| Ecr223 |
No worries... Took them both off today... so that saved me about $70... Now will just have to drop them off on my way home from work this week... Then should have free time on Saturday to reinstall... | ||
| Lostsurfer1771 |
Do you guys know the proper torque offhand? Or will I have to find it in the manual? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Offhand i'd say the rear axle but is 50ft lbs. the front axle nut is 40ft lbs. the pinch bolt is 12ft lbs. (?) the caliper bolts are 14ft lbs. (?) I'll double check when I get home. | ||
| Ecr223 |
Rear axle is 48-52 ft-lbs Front is 38-42 ft-lbs, plus loctite 243 Pinch screw 13-16 ft-lbs Caliper bolts 18-22 ft-lbs, plus loctite 272 | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Thanks | ||
| Ecr223 |
No problem... Had mine out already since that's the project I'm currently doing... | ||
| Lostsurfer1771 |
Awesome thanks guys | ||
| Ecr223 |
So before I reassemble this... On the axles, there is a silver material that looks, smells, tastes, and won't come off my hands like anti-seize... So I was gonna clean the crud off them, do you guys put the anti-seize back on? Ye olde manual says nothing about it... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes, it's anti-seize! Use it or you'll regret it! | ||
| Ecr223 |
THANKS! I try not to assume too much, since if I'm wrong I could end up dead! Makes no sense to me that the manual calls out to clean the axle with solvent, but then doesn't say to put anti-seize back on it... | ||
| Ecr223 |
Ok... So put the new tires on the bike... take it out for a ride... and at around 60 mph, I swear I can feel the bike lunge... It's as if the brakes were being applied intermittently... Engine noise remains constant, so I don't think it's anything engine related... Seems to be worse on the front.. when it does it, I can feel the forks compress... Bearings?!Brakes?! Somebody please point me in the right direction, I looked through and searched, but couldn't find anything on here.. THANKS | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
If it didn't do it before you swapped tires, then most likely it's a reassembly problem. Go over everything on the front again (first). Even if you have to pull the wheel almost (or completely) back off. First thought is the brakes are stuck 'on' or something that would simulate the same. Did you just unbolt the caliper or pull the pads out too? Did you add or delete a washer or two in the wrong place. On the rear (disassembly shouldn't be necessary as the rear is almost foolproof), is the caliper locating bolt in the hole in the swing arm? Keep us posted. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS did you do anything (anything) else besides remove wheels and replace tires? | ||
| Ecr223 |
Pads came out too, per manual, and I don't even know if you can get the front caliper off without removing pads (?)... All washers in proper location, with no leftover pieces... Rear caliper locating bolt is in the hole... Other things I did were: remove and paint front fender, and painted rims in plastidip... and no, I did not paint the rotor.. haha | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Check pad assembly. For future reference you just need to unbolt the caliper. Give it a twist to spread the pads and it comes right off. You can actually pull the wheel off without unbolting anything except spreading the pads. But you wont get it back on that way! The bike didnt have a problem like this before the tire change? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Did you use proper torque on the axles? Did you use proper assembly procedure regarding the front pinch bolt and spacer? Is anything rubbing on the tires? What tires did you put on? Did you remove the rear sprocket? |
