| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
Yes. | ||
| Kerryb |
So, the slide wasn't opening. After a couple of times apart and inspecting, cleaning, etc., I couldn't find anything wrong. Started changing parts; changing the Dynojet needle back to the stock needle was what fixed it. ? I don't know what the difference was, lifting the slide with my finger, it felt the same. But anyway, it's working as it should now and the power feels probably about right. Thanks for the help. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Pretty sure the Dynojet and stock needles arent compatible as the Dynojet uses a different emulsion tube? So changing to a Dynojet needle without the dynojet tube could have been your problem? | ||
| Jetlee |
The air flowing around the needle causes a pressure drop via the "venturi effect" right at the vacuum hole in the slide. When changing the needle, if it doesn't have the right profile at the right spot, there isn't enough of a pressure drop at that exact spot to lift the slide. About halfway down: http://www.bikerenews.com/Stories_Archives/Carbure tors.html | ||
| Ezblast |
 | ||
| Kerryb |
I still have the Dynojet emulsion tube and a Dynojet 160 jet in there, it's working with the stock needle. As everyone should know, the dynojet kit was a total waste of money. I had to order a 175 and a 180 Keihin jets, so when I get them I'll go back to the stock emulsion tube and probably a 180 Keihin jet. | ||
| Ezblast |
Don't forget to go to at least 46 to 48 primary jets,and shim with 2 #4 washers - lol - just to get started. EZ | ||
| Leondosvicrius |
stupid question but I don't have my manual in yet... where is the fuel cut off valve so i can start this rejetting? Thanks | ||
| Roblast |
Left Side of bike, kind of just below tank. Off is straight up & down. | ||
| Leondosvicrius |
Thank you sir! | ||
| Allen77360 |
why does no one have ram air? | ||
| Buellistic |
Because "i" have not finished mine yet, "BUT" the parts are ready to assemble ... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Depends on what you consider "ram air". But the fact that no one has it would be false. It should also be considered that just bolting up different intake systems "willy nilly" can have dramatically poor results. Lastly, the Blast carb is in a poor spot for air intake in that most dont want it jamming into their leg. Fine for a bar hopper, but if you want to drag knee through a turn, it'll take some work getting things out of the way. A search will turn up some "ram air" intakes. | ||
| Jetlee |
I've always thought ram-air to be a bad idea. WOT at high speed would have significantly more air (and as a result, fuel) than WOT at low speed. The Blast doesn't have the instrumentation to sense the increased air/fuel flow and change the ignition timing accordingly. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well put. | ||
| Allen77360 |
its finished now. slightly rich.out of the way and only little bigger than factory.  (Message edited by allen77360 on April 09, 2012) | ||
| Jetlee |
Why do you think it's rich? What is that thing coming out of the "horn" that looks like some sort of plug or sensor? Is your air filter still in the stock location? | ||
| Allen77360 |
its still lean. i want it little rich. plug is nothing, its actually hose clamp on fuel line. lol. when im done it will still be lean in higher gears. | ||
| Jetlee |
1a. Is it lean or is it rich? 1b. How do you know? 1c. Why will you leave it lean in higher gears? Lean <> Good 2. What are you doing for air filtration? 3a. Is that the stock airbox? 3b. Can we see a pic of what the other side looks like with the cover removed? FYI: In regard to "lean in higher gears", the gear does not dictate how much fuel goes into the engine, your right hand does. Whether you're WOT in 1st or 5th doesn't matter to the carb. What will matter is the amount of air and fuel being forced into the engine at speed and the engine management (aka ignition module) not being able to adjust timing properly. Typically when you cram more air/fuel into your combustion chamber, you want to retard your timing to prevent knock. This could be resolved with modifying a timing map on an adjustable ignition to slightly lower values in the upper rpm range, or retarding your own nosecone module ~1mm (3 degs) which affects the entire rpm range. HOWEVER, this isn't an RPM-based issue, it's a speed-based issue. This takes me back to my comment that the Blast lacks sufficient instrumentation to makes such changes. As a result, you need to either tune for low speed or high speed. One will suffer where the other will excel. Tuning for the high speed will result in your ignition is retarded in the lower revs. Tuning for low speed and having too-advanced timing in the top-end can knock and kill your motor. Now, if you still have the stock air filter in place...I think you wasted your time. | ||
| Allen77360 |
1a sorry lean at top end. seems rich at bottom. 1b pulls almost same regardless hot or cold.does not pull harder if i slightly let off. i am still jetting. 46/175 shimmed .46 2-3 it has k&n filter in factory airbox except i desnorkeled it. the pic is before i cleaned it up  | ||
| Roblast |
I think I found the source of my ticking/clicking noise (that both a Buell dealer & independent mechanic both told me it was "standard valve noise"). I think it's an intake leak. I decided to change Das Boot, just to see if that was causing any problems, since I was starting to think that I was running lean and getting knocking/pinging. When i went to do this, I noticed a small gap between the air box and intake. I also found the venturi ring was cracked (new ring on order). Until the new ring comes in, I tried to seal the air box to the intake the best I could and epoxied the ring. The sound is MUCH better, and my air/fuel mix screw now actually does something. What I'm wondering is if it's a good idea to use gasket sealer on the paper gasket between the air box and intake, or even between the mating surfaces of the venturi ring an air box? Why are paper gaskets used, vs. rubber or another material? Given the money, I'd buy a new intake, but that's not an option right now. (Kids broke a large 2x pane window last night - grrrrrrrrrr, but kids will be kids) | ||
| Ezblast |
Gasket is like 2 to 5 bucks - replace. EZ | ||
| Roblast |
Yeah EZ, $2.65, it's waiting for the rIng. I'm just wondering if I should add sealer to it on the carb side, or on the air box side of the Venturi ring. Would it help / hurt sealing either "joint"? | ||
| Ezblast |
No - it is suposed to stick to that side - no sealer needed - lol EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I have serious doubts thats your clicking/ticking. RTV sealers should not be used anywhere near gasoline. Spray Hi-tack for paper gaskets, Gaskets are designed for specific purposes and cost. The area you are sealing is not critical and not subject to great heat or stress. To use a $10 gasket there when a 50 cent gasket would work fine would be a waste of $$. | ||
| Roblast |
Erik - How come you don't think that the noise was caused by a gap between the air box and carb intake. It was maybe 1/8" or more wide. I figure it was causing ping / knock by sucking extra air there. It coulda been replacing the old boot (or a combination of both), but I couldn't find a problem with the old one. I get the gasket thing - I just wanted to check. | ||
| Jetlee |
Air coming in before the carb wouldn't make enough difference to cause/cure ping/knock/deto unless you were already dangerously close to it. That gap before the carb will only disrupt airflow passing over the needle jet. It's still metered air, but not the same as a vacuum leak at the boot. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur. I couldnt have said it better (in fact I rarely do!). "I dont think" = I could be wrong. But you are certainly correct in replacing bad/broken parts. Nothing is more frustrating than trying to find/fix a problem when someone refuses to fix what is already wrong  | ||
| Roblast |
Since I did 2 things at once: replaced the boot and found the mating issue between the carb & airbox, I'll never really be sure what was the source of the problem. I do know that the boot didn't have an obvious issue. Could the original have been over / under tightened? Sure. Fixing anything broken, no matter how small, is always a good idea, as has been pointed out. What I do know for sure: I'm learning a ton by not ignoring stuff, and reading this board constantly. The biggest factor in this whole deal is that I KNOW for a fact that I don't know anywhere enough about all of this stuff, but I'm mechanically inclined (to a point), I'm stubborn & don't give up easily, and I love learning all I can about my bike. I appreciate all of the feedback and help. | ||
| Ezblast |
Shoot - described me as well - just been at it longer. EZ |
