| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
You know you did everything wrong you could the first 1000 miles with the bike's used ownership? You even say so in your opening statements, which is why others would not even touch your thread. Me - I love a challenge. Slowly we went through everything, re-doing stuff not done right more than once. If everything is good now, as you insist it is, though I have doubts, then there is only one thing left to check. Do a compression check - you could have blown the rings seal riding around with no oil, etc. - this assumes a good carb, a loose primary,a well adjusted clutch, disabled safeties (might want to disable the BAS - bank angle sensor - as well)good spark and battery, good tank vent - hose clear and not kinked and check valve from tank not stuck, getting an adequate amount of fuel, and good fuel valve and float, no water in the tank, and no wiring glitches. Did I miss anything? This is a very simple single cylinder motor, only so much can go wrong. There is only so much a person can do for another on line. Let us know if you find out what the problem was, that way others can go down your list and fix their problem. EZ | ||
| Imblasted |
Thank you very much EZ. You have been very patient. I have taken the last few days off. Hoping that when I go back to it tonight I will be able to spot my mistake, there has to be something that i have done wrong. It has always had oil within the fill lines, when hot. The problem must lie somewhere in the carb, but being my first carburetor I guess i cannot spot it. I will be taking pictures tonight and hopefully I will be able to tell you what was wrong. I was hoping that this thread would help others but it seems as tho no one else has screwed up like me. My mechanical background is in automotive electrical and engines. This is my first carb and trans work that i have done. not to mention it is my first motorcycle... thank you again. Ill let you know how it goes tonight. | ||
| Ezblast |
Seriously - before you hurt yourself with more work, when my bike puked oil, it was because I had a lean condition - torn boot, added to a long hot ride - I blew the rings and holed the piston. Rent a compression tester and check - that would rule out a lot of questions - I'm the first to admit that I'm shadetree, however, owning as many Blasts as I have, I have had virtually every problem that could happen to them. And after re-reading the whole thread and sleeping on it I woke up remembering the first thing to ever go wrong with my bike - very much as your first post described - you can rent cheaply a compression tester - 12 to 24 bucks - take the plug out, put in their reader and give it a go. If it isn't compression, that will be a load off your mind, as the worst that can be happening then is a sick carb - how then would be the question. EZ | ||
| Britchri10 |
FYI: Update on the "Doohickey". It seems to be an extraneous after market part that the guy who originally rejetted my carb to 45/175 added when he did the rejet. I considered long & hard taking it apart again to photograph it but I have just come back from it's first outing since I "fixed" it &, given the fact that it reached 93MPH (indicated), I have reluctantly decided not to disassemble it again as I don't want to press my luck. (The bike has been off the road for nearly 8 months & would only do 89 MPH prior to all my work on it)) I hope you can understand my decision. I haven't given up on you either, though. If I were you, I would take it back to "square one" & check everything again. I know it's gonna be a PITA but just redoing what you have already done with the knowledge you have accumulated doing it may well end up solving whatever the problem is. FWIW: I have been riding my X1 exclusively this year. Just getting back on the Blast has reminded me that it really is a great bike. As EZ says, It's a simple machine to work on. Keep on keeping on with it and you will be rewarded in the end. Chris C | ||
| Imblasted |
you are shadetree? whats that mean? i had considered the idea that i blew something but then i threw that idea out b/c it idles and sounds normal. But compression test it is. Ill check in afterwards. hopefully with good news and not a low compression reading. I can't wait to be riding again. its killing me! Next time i buy a bike i am tearing it open, checking everything, and replacing all fluids! and my next bike is either a xb9sx or xb12x maybe an xb9r! | ||
| Britchri10 |
Recent History of my Blast. problem manifested itself as a high idle. Changed/checked boot (I have a superboot) NO alteration in the way the bike ran. Changed O ring in intake to engine. No change in the way it ran. Took carb apart. The needle had become stuck in the main jet.(I don't know how this happened) NB: Bike would idle (on slow jet) but would not run correctly (on main jet) Replaced needle. Replaced main jet. Reassembled. Result:Bike runs like a train. (Much stronger than before) As EZ says, check for a compression leak. If you don't have one....it HAS to be the way the carb is put together... Is the main jet damaged? ALSO: Shade Tree = repairing it yourself in the front/back yard (vis: in the shade of a tree) I think you are well on your way to Shade Tree status. Don't give up (& buy an X1, not an XB) LOL Chris C | ||
| Imblasted |
http://keys.craigslist.org/mcy/2441963436.html | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - starter bike - starter mechanic bike maybe - XBs are much less intense that way - lol EZ | ||
| Imblasted |
what do you mean less intense? less work? yea i wasn't planning on buying that time bomb. too good to be true = too good to be true... which are you saying is better to work on and takes less work? | ||
| Ezblast |
05 or newer XB9 - ideally 08 or 09 XB9 - are probably the most durable twins made by HD. Motor is under a lot less stress than the 12, yet has all the re-reinforcements done to the 12 motor for durability and reliability. EZ | ||
| Imblasted |
so i am assuming i have over tightened the clutch (again), if when i put it into first with the clutch pulled that the trans feels like it is spinning/it sorta grinds. | ||
| Ezblast |
That could just be an adjustment at the cable - if it is at the clutch you will feel the bike still try to roll with the clutch pulled in. The sound is probably the primary needing a small adjustment - don't worry about that yet, it is a tad loose. Worry if your bike tries to move with the clutch all the way in. Do you have compression? EZ | ||
| Imblasted |
Getting the tester now | ||
| Imblasted |
Compression above 120. Taking carb off now. It also has great fuel flow | ||
| Imblasted |
all passages are cleaned and flow. jets are soaking and are clear, needle is soaking. here is a pic of the needle,which im sure is fine. the vacuum line is plugged and not leaking. the diaphragm i believe is seated correctly. it was seated perfectly into the groove on the top carb. anything else i can double check while im in here? the needle seat needs to peek into the throttle body. and the brass pieces need to be tight but not too tight. the air mix screw is soaking and when i install it goes in o-ring, washer, spring, mix screw. i don't know what else to do...  | ||
| Imblasted |
  then i capped it... | ||
| Imblasted |
it wasnt a sound the shift lever didn't want to go into gear with the clutch pulled all the way. | ||
| Ezblast |
Make sure the vacuum hole by the 9 oclock carb intake screw hole is clear - blow through, make sure float is the right angle - use a protractor, make sure all safeties are dis-abled, that the hose from the gas tank cap lid is clear and not kinked or pinched, that the valve the hose goes into is not stuck - test is to run bike with cap off for just 20 feet or so, and see if that works - if bike goes off idle it worked and means bad valve, make sure needle spring is seated correctly, Blow through jets and needle with air as well, empty tank and put in fresh hi octane gas, use fresh intake gasket, if you have the new 45 slow jet, the 170 main jet, and the two #4 washers, apply them now as well - key word being new - shiny and clean, clean plug, check gap, make sure wire is tight to plug head and coil, take your time putting it back together, make sure all the parts are right, check the carb body for any holes that look out of place - etc., its all that I can think of - anyone else? EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
That's usually a matter of idle - least of your worries, blip the throttle and firmly and quickly shift down - check the stuff I said as well - good luck! EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Attention all recent purchasers of an outerwears filter for your Blast - they sent you the wrong filter, and will send you the correct filter upon contacting them. EZ | ||
| Imblasted |
it is back!! since i couldnt find anyone to come help me out, she went to the stealership and 189$ later they said i installed something backwards. i always learn the hard way. at least this time it was my wallet that took the hit and not my body! (longboarding in parking garages seems to leave me scarred). thanks ez for trying to tell me i put something in backwards. | ||
| Ezblast |
Awe - just go ride it and enjoy! EZ | ||
| Thumpe |
I built this intake using EZ's Outerwears filter high flow idea an had them make a sock filter 2 3/8" by 4" long to fit on a bent intake tube giving more filter area and makes it alot lighter with out the K&N on there an it's very free flowing now! Put a splitter in it and a Dial-A-Jet she's sweet!   | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Now THATS nice! I'd run that without question. | ||
| Sycho |
Dan, did you powder coat your Y-frames? If so how's it holding up to wear and tear from your boots/ankle area? Mine are stock and they have a wear mark at the ankle area. | ||
| Thumpe |
Thanks Erik! Sycho there just painted black give them a touch up when needed. I have been thinking about powder coating them myself. | ||
| Kerryb |
After a bunch of work to the Blast, I find it has very little power while I'm doing the break-in. Question: should the carb slide be opening with a twist of the throttle regardless of if the bike is off or on? recent work: NRHS stage 1 head Rev Perf 515 kit rejetted got rid of CA charcoal cannister | ||
| Crackhead |
The slide will only rise if the carb receives vacuum in the intake. (the motor has to be running) Check the boot and beside what is listed, what else did you do? (Message edited by crackhead on January 05, 2012) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur on he carb slide. What piston did you use? What cylinder (iron, nikasil)? CA canister: Tank hose open to vent/air. Carb hose(or carb vacuum nipple) plugged. PCV line plugged. What jets? Shim the needle? Did you put the pushrods in the correct places? OR did you convert to adjustables? Did you use the NRHS torque sequence? You shouldnt experience low power during break-in. Sounds like something is very wrong. | ||
| Kerryb |
so with bike running, the slide should go up to fully open as throttle goes to wide open? |
