| Author | Message | ||
     10404697 |
its not just the slappy sound anymore, now when im just cruzing in any gear the bike will sortof lurch forward, like its cought on something, i think it is the chain and the peice that pushes up against it, my step dad and i are planning on removing the primary cover just to see whats up in there, but we'll also need to remove the pegs and the shifter, so i guess what im asking is, is there an easy way to do all this, or do you even think we're on the right track as to what is causeing the problem. | ||
| Ezblast |
Yes, If you are going all the way to the shift pawl, then pick up a new detent plate, 2 new detent clips, a primary gasket, and a inspection cover gasket, and a shift shaft seal, lower chain guide/shoe, and o-rings for the primary adjuster, and primary drain bolt, and perhaps a new o-ring for the clutch cable as well. Sand and round the edges of the stator wire protection plate, and make sure the drum pins are the same size - 0.335 max - putting a drop of red locktite at the base of the pin and gently tapping it back in to the right size. Replace the detent plate and clip, adding a second if there seems to be enough room. Make sure that bolt is torqued to spec, Then do the shift pawl adjustment., then the clutch adjustment at the clutch, then at the adjuster and handle, then the primary adjustment. EZ | ||
| 10404697 |
? | ||
| Krjoseph |
?, yeah, I get what you're saying. What EZ is saying sounds like Greek until you do it. Just finished all this myself. It's amazing how simple it is once you tear into your primary. I'm glad I did it, one on my drum pins was 3mm longer than the rest, so my detent plate was at an angle, no wonder shifting was tough. I made all the pins length and the detent plate fits nicely. After seeing it, I finally understand how the shifting works. As EZ said, .335 inches, or 8.5mm if you prefer metric like me. Very simple to do. Adjusting the shift pawl is way simpler than it sounds. | ||
| Jugallo94 |
A easy way to remove your primary inspection cover is take the right size torx bit and cut it down so it will fit between the foot peg and cover and use a pair of vise grips on the piece. A little homemade tool I made before switching to rearsets. Worked pretty good for removing the inspection cover only. If you have to pull your whole primary cover off the bracket still needs to come off though. | ||
| 10404697 |
so wait do i have to do every thing ez says or is that just sorta a "while your in there you might as well" sorta thing? | ||
| Swampy |
But...... I experienced the exact same feeling......when my ignition module crapped out. Look up some of my posts from many years ago, probably 2002, it felt like the bike would loose power, like the belt was tightening up or binding up, it would backfire randomly. I changed every part between the two Blasts, carbs coils, sparkplugs, wires, and nothing worked. Then it stopped running and would restart after it cooled down. After replacing the ignition module, I was kicking myself and marveling at how well the bike actually ran, and remarked how for two years I was hunting a problem that was so simple to fix....once I found it. | ||
| 10404697 |
so we've pulled the cover, and there wasn't any fluid in there....i knew that it needed oil and transmission fluid and i told steve that but he must have not believed me, cuz he is used to rice burners. so its pretty bad in there the chain guide and shoe are both broken or non existant, i think it was the shoe that was giveing me that grabby feeling, there was minimal dammage to the cover, i still have the shoe from my first engine, but i need to buy a new chain guide(anyone know the part #) i'm suprised it ran at all without transmission fluid in there, and when i first road it after the new engine was put in it sounded normal for the first 3 months lol so ya i feel dumb. | ||
| Indybuell |
WoW.  | ||
| Ezblast |
See my profile , follow the link to my page, then follow the link to my group, join, and all the information you need is in the files section. EZ | ||
| 10404697 |
ok so the parts finally came in today and the bike is now back together, it sounds and feels tons better, i just took it for a spin through the subdivision even though it's really late, just to see how much better it was, but as i was pulling into my driveway i shift down into 1st and the engine lost all power and stopped, i turned it over again and it started right back up, i was to tired to investigate but is there anything i should be aware of or should i just ride it again tomorrow and see what happens? | ||
| Ezblast |
Yes! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sounds like you may have a bad safety switch. Bypass the kickstand switch and flip the clutch diode if this happens again. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
This thread moved to Thumper K V section under engines/primary drive: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/480893.html?1249451066 | ||
| 10404697 |
finally found my thread! anyway yestureday i road all day, and everything was good, until all the sudden it started making a lot of noise, so i pulled over and i look, and the exhaust head is missing both the nuts and the ring has slid all the way down. we ran to the hardware store and bought what we needed, but we couldn't get them on like the threads were striped.......this motorcycle really doesn't like me...but it like the sound it makes now, but i'm the the cops wouldn't, and i don't know if there are any mechanical conciquences for riding around like that. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Consequences are a burned valve=bad. | ||
| Truthnexile |
Hi guys and happy new year to all of ya. Finally had time to do pull primary cover for the first time on my 2000, 10K miles, and have just a few quick questions for the experts. Here's what the old shoe looked like. I was curious about the spots on the inside cover where there has been obvious grinding- is this from slack in the chain over time grinding on the cover, and is it ok to reassemble as is? I hadn't messed with this job before and would rather avoid the trial and error routine in 2011 if possible. Obliged.   | ||
| Swampy |
Happy New Year. I would check both the crankshaft sprocket nut and the clutch drum nut(left handed threads) The picture you are showing means the crank sprocket is loose and rubbing the cover and the second picture shows two groves worn wider than that of the third groove, meaning something is moving. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
What prompted you to take the cover off in the first place? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS: good eye Swampy! | ||
| Truthnexile |
Thanks Swampy, will check it out. I got a new shoe & spring b/c my adjuster bolt was practically flush w/ the locknut, and I was running out of adjustment- I have done the torque method and "by ear". Oddly enough, when I got the Blast at under 1K, the adjuster bolt had been cut cleanly off with a sawzall by some idiot who figured that was the smart way to remove the spacer. ?? I don't know. I could not completely get rid of the rattling under load despite numerous tension adjustments, and I'd read up a bit on some of the threads here. (Message edited by truthnexile on January 01, 2011) | ||
| Truthnexile |
Oh, here's what I was looking at under the cover if this provides more info. at  | ||
| Truthnexile |
Maybe I shoulda put this in another thread, but this is what I have found past coupla times I had to change or add oil. My vent hose is tucked securely up out of the way and I have not pressure washed it much at all. Where the H20 is gettin in I hadn't figured. One bothersome thing is the occasional "bucking" when taking off from a stop under normal conditions. It's infrequent, but prob happens once on most days, and it's not only when cold either.  | ||
| Truthnexile |
Gearhead, to clarify, I ordered parts a few months back for jobs I knew would be upcoming, and I have bout 2 weeks free time right now. I'll also be attempting to change cylinder base + head gaskets and steering head bearings next few days. Like most of you, DIY is the only way I go, and I'm learning daily. Just gotta work around a few obstacles posed by apartment dwelling and limited equipment. This 1 has not nor will see the inside of an HD service bay while I'm living. | ||
| Swampy |
You are probably looking at old problems, especially with the adjuster bolt sawed off. It looks like the crank nut is tight as it is still in place. The gook in the cover is probably from water intrusion from the vent tube. I would make sure it is zip tied to the inside top of the frame rail as in its stock assembly it just lays in the gutter of the bottom of the fram rail and any water that gets in that area runs right into the vent tube. | ||
| Buellistic |
For "SAFETY", the Transmission Vent Hose should be ran to a CATCH CONTAINER !!! Iam Noone' | ||
| Rusty7983 |
i ran on a ride yesterday, and did just under 400 miles. I had checked the primary oil level previous to ride. third and forth gear made a funny noise, then went away. this morning it rained and i checked the fluid again, and there was none. i took the primary cover off, and the chain guide and adjuster are gone. plastic shreds everywhere. the chain looks way too stretched out. the manual says to pull the clutch pack off. is it the best way? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Thats the only way I know of to replace the chain. (besides using a chain breaker, but then you corrupt the integrity of the chain). The chain will look stretched out though even if its not. If you look at the above pictures, thats how it looks normally. Shredded chain guide and adjuster shoe is usually the result of a chain adjusted too loose or to tight. Doesnt mean you need a new chain, but...... | ||
| Rusty7983 |
what about the front (engine) sprocket? would it be easy to pull? if not how do you remove the clutch and sprocket? the manual has tools disassembling the clutch pack. | ||
| Rusty7983 |
the clutch spring forcing tool, is there anything else i can use? or do i have to buy it too? i flip a few pages in the manual and it talks about replacing the engine sprocket. it shows a sprocket locking link, i am sure with a grinder i could make it. |
