| Author | Message | ||
     Dadj91 |
So I got my bike out of the garage a few days ago to get it ready for summer. Here's what I did to winterize it. I changed the oil and filter, and transmission fluid. I added sta-bil to a full fresh tank of gas. Before I left for college I idled the bike until it ran out of gas with the gas valve on off. That's all I did, nothing else. I get it started up and running first try and ride around the neighborhood a little bit. When I came to a stop and let it idled, it died on me. Upon trying to start back up, a loud pop came from the intake boot (same problem as last year). So after a long push back to my garage I start trying some things out. Just fyi, I am not a mechanic, I know some things about engines and do regular maintenance but that is all. First I replaced the boot with a new one. Only thing going on was the starter trying to turn over (I hear the clicking sound when trying to start). I sprayed a very small amount of carb cleaner into the carb through the air intake hole (When you take the housing off on the right side off). Next I charged the battery overnight and tried to start again after it cooled off for a few hours, but nothing. After that, I changed spark plug from stock to the NGK DPR9EIX-9 based on the FAQs. It finally started up and idled well and when under a little throttle in neutral. I turned it off, got my gear on, started it up again, kicked it in first, but only barely got out of my driveway before it wanted to shutter and die. When I turned the throttle it kinda felt like a loss of power. After I pushed it back into my garage, I couldn't get it to start back up again. I've checked the boot again and it's on. The air filter isn't new, but it's not clogged. The battery has been charged overnight twice in the last week. The NGK plug was new three days ago and gap is fine. I have also emptied out the gas tank and added new fresh gas. Fuel line is on tight, but I haven't tested it (don't know how). I haven't changed the oil or filter, but I don't think that is my problem. I don't know what or how to check the carb (I'm kinda timid to mess with it because I'm afraid I'll mess it up somehow). I haven't tested voltage on anything because I don't have voltmeter. What could be the problem? I'm thinking it has to be something with the carb mixing. Any advice is great. It's a 2007 with 1090 miles and the first "service interval" has not been done. The nearest dealer that will do it is 45 miles away. (Message edited by DaDJ91 on May 14, 2011) | ||
| Ezblast |
First make sure the boot is on right! Use only premium gas - period - especially if storing, it degrades, Stabil just slows it down. Ditch the gas and try fresh. Thats a long time sitting. EZ | ||
| Dadj91 |
The boot is definitely on right, and I've already emptied the tank and added fresh gas. I just now got it to idle again. It's doing it fine just still having problems getting it to move in first. I've let it warm up for several minutes now. | ||
| Ezblast |
Plug tight? Plug wire tight to plug? and coil? Is the gas premium? Is the bike otherwise stock - ie - exhaust, and intake? EZ | ||
| Dadj91 |
Bike is completely stock. I put in regular gas. I finally got it to run and rode it around the block a couple times with little problems. So for now, I think I got everything worked out. | ||
| Ezblast |
Not if you keep running it with regular. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
It does sound like classic safety switch issues though. Bike starts but dies when I put it in gear and try to take off. ...just for future reference. Concur with the premium. Although it wont cause "real" issues, its "penny wise and pound foolish". For a bike that gets potentially 70 mpg, running regular seems pointless as it will cost you more in the long run. | ||
| Dadj91 |
I have been running it on premium since I first bought it last summer, put about 800 miles on it that way. I just put regular in to get it started because my local gas station around the corner was out of premium,  . Anyway, I know that it makes more sense to run premium and will fill it up with that next time. I rode for about 40 miles yesterday without any problems still. I love the blast, other than the cranky transmission. Another question, how much better does the blast shift when you get the spacer taken off for the 1000 mi interval? I know I am over a few miles, but I am going to try and go next weekend to the dealer to get it done. I've put fresh fluid, Mobil 1 20w50, in the transmission and it definitely made it a little smoother. | ||
| Ezblast |
Noooooooo - don't do it! Do it yourself and get it right! They'll blow it - fact. Ride around for a half hour, pull up to a flat space, chock wheels, or have someone watch bike, take two adjustable wrenches, loosen, remove spacer, loosen some more, till you hear a change in noise, tighten back up till change in noise gone, keep in place and lock it down. Done. If they do it by the book it will be way too tight. The way I mention means you will adjust it a tad tighter if you hear a change in noise from the primary, otherwise you would leave it alone. EZ | ||
| Swampy |
There is a spot when you are adjusting the primary going from too loose to tight, it sounds like rattley when too loose, and it will whirr when it is too tight, so you just want to tighten it untill you do not have the rattle and no farther. Once it is set you should be good to go for a very long time. Also, to get an idea just how loose the primary is running with the spacer in place, that is how loose it is from the factory, because if you run it too tight the engine will not run when starting it up and you will loose terminal velosity. Once you get your primary chain adjusted you must adjust your clutch, both the internal and then the external adjustment. Learn to do this yourself, as it is about the only adjustments you need to make and if you take it to a dealer it will get screwed up .and it is way too easy to do. I would come all the way from Michigan to do it if I had a place to stay! | ||
| Milt |
+1 EZ & Swampy | ||
| Dadj91 |
So all you would need are two adjustable wrenches (which I have five) to pull the spacer off? The way you make it sound, makes it really easy EZ. What exactly does this bolt and spacer do with the transmission? Again, I'm not a mechanic just a hobbyist. I have no problem with doing what you say by myself, just want to know why and how it works somewhat. I could do that this weekend. How does it change the shifting of the bike? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
It comes off that easy. Loosen the jam nut (the nut against the engine). Hold it with the wrench and unscrew the bolt slightly. The "C" shaped spacer will come out. The primary chain joins the engine sprocket to the transmission sprocket (thereby joining the two). The chain is loose, so it has a "shoe" which rubs against the chain, taking out the slack. The bolt presses against the shoe which adjusts the chain tension. Unscrewing (counterclockwise) the bolt backs the shoe away from the chain causing more slack (loose). Turning the screw clockwise causes the shoe to be pushed harder against the chain taking out the slack (tighten). With time the chain stretches, however it doesnt stretch evenly. There are "tight" sections and "loose" sections in the chain so at any given point you might be adjusting the chain on a loose section or a tight section. That could cause your chain to be too loose or too tight. The "sound" or "by ear method" of adjusting while the engine is running takes the loose spots and tight spots into account giving a more accurate adjustment. You can do the adjustment the factory method first (adding the 8-12 nut flats instead of the 4-5 the repair manual says) and then adjust "by ear" from there. Then you know you're at least close to a good adjustment before you start the bike. Sounds complicated but its not. You'll get the hang of it, take your time. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The chain being too loose shakes the heck out of the transmission and everything else. The smoother the chain runs, the smoother everything else will work and feel. Too tight and everything is just binding up. It might actually shift smoother when too tight, but you'll be causing lots of damage. | ||
| Dadj91 |
Will I need to adjust the clutch after taking the spacer off and adjusting that? How would you guys recommend doing this? | ||
| Ezblast |
No, but if your adjusting the clutch, you have to loosen your primary first, then adjust, then re-adjust the primary. EZ | ||
| Dadj91 |
Alright, so I've decided I will do this technique this afternoon. Before I begin, is there anything I should make sure NOT to do? Anyone have any stories of doing this and it turned out bad? I wouldn't think so unless I turned the bolt in too much too fast, but I'll make sure to take it nice and slow. Especially with the bike running while I do this, I want to be extra careful and not cause any damage. | ||
| Ezblast |
Don't take the bolt out, chock the wheels - anything - rocks, etc., make sure the bike has been ridden at least 20 minutes to be properly warm, so it will idle ok. The reason you don't want to take the bolt out is because your primary would drain. It has happened two or three times that there was no change in sound when the bolt was mostly out, this meant that it was a tight chain to start - so then just bring it in some, and lock it down till you get home, then you would default back to factory method with the exception of going 12 flats out instead of the 4 to 5 the repair manual states. On a loose chain even 12 flats out can be too tight, and cause damage, which is why we use the racer's sound method. EZ | ||
| Dadj91 |
Well I just did it and it feels noticeably smoother. The shifts feel more precise, quicker, and just about gone of the clunkiness. I will work some more on it tomorrow after I get off work to get it just right. One last thing, and thank you so much EZ, when going from neutral to first to get going, does anyone experience a bit of a rolling sound when trying to shift down? That's the best I can describe it without making a video. It really only occurs when the bike is cold, but it did get better after adjusting the primary. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The clutch plates stick when cold. Its pretty much a Harley trait (though newer bikes are much better). Its also one reason why neutral to first very often gets a bad crunch. It can all be made better with adjustments and shifting practice. 1st to 2nd can also be "crunchy". So what you experience may be 'normal'. |
