| Author | Message | ||
     Nurider |
I just bought a 2000 Blast that is Broke. Being the mechanical person I am I took it on no problem. Theres only one problem I am not that familiar with bikes... Anyway I am pretty sure that there is a bearing out in the transmission. It looks like in the Tech manual that you have to take apart the entire top end to remove the cylinder and split the case to get into the transmission. Is it necessary to do all of that or is there a better way? | ||
| Ezblast |
Whats it do, what won't it do? Does it shift at all? EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
I did have the main shaft bearing go on my 2000 - about 5000 miles on it at the time - been golden so far since then and a little over 26000 miles since then - when something in the tranny does go, you do have to split the case, however, I know of only a hand full of times this has ever had to happen, usually the problem is in the primary side. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Welcome Nurider! | ||
| Nurider |
Thanks for the welcoming messages. I am not sure it was broke when I bought it the guy I bought it from was not machanically minded at all. He stuck a screwdriver through the oil filter to try to get it off. He told me he took it to HD and they Diagnosed it as a bearing inside the transmission. So as of now I have the bike split engine and transmission are seperate from the chasis. I do think it will be worth the fix considering I only paid $700 and theres really nothing else wrong that I've seen, except for a worn out rear engine mount. Thanks for the quick response guys and hope to hear more back. | ||
| Ezblast |
If its the main, then the motor will not turn. I do not trust HD mechanics, If you split the case, of course the problem will be fixed, but the real question is - is it necessary? I would try starting it first, and go from there. Is it in neutral, can you roll it? When my main bearing went, the motor locked, and would not roll, unless in neutral. EZ | ||
| Nurider |
Hmmmm..... It poses a problem trying to start it now considering it is not attached to the frame and almost everything is removed but when it was still in one peice I believe it would roll whether it was in neutral or not. A couple other clues maybe to turn on a lightbulb, Is that the primary chain tensioner was absolutely shredded and he said that that was the second one he went through since he had the bike. Also I found a few metal pieces at the bottom of the cover, they did in fact look like bearing peices. My main concern is keeping a relative budget during this whole thing. And gaskets from the dealer are expensive is there any aftermarket places that sell OEM parts like gaskets? | ||
| Ezblast |
Got it! Bet it is the clutch bearing that went. A lot easier to fix. Twice - eh? - then I'm practically right in my guessing, primary too tight, bet clutch was adjusted too tight as well. I shop Chicago HD on line - 20% off all online orders - would have to wait for a local dealer's order and still pay freight, so for me this is the best option. Or sponsors of course also sell parts, but the best discount is 10% - EZ | ||
| Swampy |
That is what it sounds like by your description, you have to run the primary chain loose otherwise the primary chain will pull the clutch basket out of alignment and will result in wierd clutch problems like clutch dragging and such. I can see the clutch basket bearing getting destroyed by having the primary chain run too tight. Follow the manual instructions for loosening the crankshaft nut, you will need a locking tool which can be made at home very easily. Good luck Welcome and let us know what you find | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Heed their warnings and STOP! Dont trust anyone else's diagnosis at this point. Its definitely not worth tearing the engine apart for nothing and most definitely worth putting the engine back in the frame, fix the obvious problems and see how it runs. HD techs have been wrong often and the people here at Badweb are right more often without even seeing the bike!!!! Your profile says low miles and its gone through 2 primary shoes, "a transmission bearing" and an engine mount? What is the mileage? I concur with the others. Sort out whats really happening in the primary before going any further. FWIW: If you've never taken apart an air cooled VW engine or a motorcycle engine where the case must be split to access the transmission, it can be a daunting task. Many have wound up in boxes to be sold or thrown away  PS There are special tools (read expensive) needed to reassemble a Blast engine. I know they may not actually be necessary but.... | ||
| Ezblast |
You need a press, and some way to hold the belt pulley, rest of the tools are regular,you'll need inside and outside, and vernier calipers to check spec. I'm going there, and so I've been researching - lol EZ (Message edited by ezblast on April 18, 2011) | ||
| Nurider |
Wow thanks for the quick feedback everyone I just about ready to tear into it. I have a lot of experience in building/repairing/fabrication and such, but I am new to bikes but with gas prices it seemed a great route. After further investigation into the bike's history I discovered it had a salvage title in another state that had been changed back to a clean title. The odometer on the bike says 3750 miles but the rear motor mount was completely shot and just by inspection I think the bike has many more miles on it. Anyway Thank you so much for the feedback and I will keep you posted on progress and hopefully many blasting tales.  | ||
| Nurider |
Ok New developmements in the clues to the problem.... I found enough metal peices during cleaning and stuck to the stator magnents to determine the bearing size the bearing appears to be a ball bearing, no suprise with the balls being about the size of a BB for a BB gun. Anyone know where that bearing came from??? | ||
| Ezblast |
Clutch! | ||
| Rainman |
As for HD mechanics, the folks at my dealership told me when I approached them about an issue "Not sure what it could be. We've never seen a Blast come in with 15,000 miles on it." | ||
| Nurider |
Ok thank you EZ! That cuts my repair time down dramatically. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Rainman: LOL! I'm surprised they didnt tell the mechanics to go and hide until you left! | ||
| Nurider |
I found the problem... I was misled by what the previous owner told me about what HD's Diagnosis was. Sorry EZ the problem was not in the Clutch. The initial diagnosis was excess noise coming from the transmission. I split the case and tore it all down. Its not as bad as I expected... The ball bearing on the Main Shaft was wore out and was causing a lot of friction and noise. Two other gear needle bearings were also wore out but not broke. With everything taken apart I can see no other problems other than lots of cleaning due to the shreaded primary tensioner. So soon the bike will be running like stock. With aftermarket performance parts soon to follow.  | ||
| Ezblast |
While there, either backcut the gears, or add a Bakers drum - as for an M2 - either or even both will improve shifting dramatically, and if you add the Baker drum, you never have to worry about the Detent clip/retaining ring breaking, since the superior Baker drum holds things together with a bolt instead of a clip. Sorry you had to dig so deep, been there with that problem while under warranty, rebuilt for free. I'm glad you have a positive outlook on this! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well, gosh, since you've got the cases split (you all know whats coming) you might want to get the cases bored for the 600cc kit. Thats what I'd do  | ||
| Ezblast |
Yuppers! Concur! | ||
| Nurider |
This all sounds great and like I said before mechanical things dont bother me. I dont mind tearing things apart so far in my life I havent bought anything that didnt need to be fixed. Why start now.... As for the baker drum I will need more information I honestly have no idea what you were talking about. I am willing to look into it and it sounds great. But need some clarification. As for boring the cylinder to 600cc I think id like that!!! but I havent rode before this is my first bike. That along with a pretty tight budget. So I would need to know how much these MODS cost. Along with some details on how its done and where to find the parts. But Thanks for all the help guys I appreciate it. | ||
| Ezblast |
Just use the BADWEB search and do this:  All you'll need to know about the Baker Drum! I have one for those reasons mentioned in the search. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
http://www.revperf.com/Blast/BlastPerform.html $500 for the "kit" (piston, rings and cylinder). $160 to bore the case. You already have it all apart (except for the piston on the rod). Being your first bike and you havent really had it running yet, its a tough sell. It just seems a shame not to do it, but it is pricey if you're on a budget. It wont turn your Blast into a wheelstanding rocket, but it will be a significant increase in power. Its my belief that you can get the case bored, but not run the 600 cylinder and piston and do that later. I'd double check on that. | ||
| Nurider |
The Piston Upsize Mod is a little bit out of my budget right now... It wasnt that bad to get the engine off of the bike and to take the cylinder off. And I found an engine gasket kit on ebay for $35 unopened with all the peices there. I know sometimes you dont get what you expect on ebay but i contacted the seller and it sounds leggit. So I will put the engine upgrade in my possible things to do in the future. Thanks for the suggestion gearhead I didnt think of that. As for the Baker Drum I looked through the search and couldnt really find what I was wanting to know. And honestly Im kinda Lazy when it comes to flipping through 20-30 posts trying to find what I am wanting to know.  EZ.... If you could give me a quick rundown on what it does? How much it costs? Where can I get it? and possibly a picture or two It would be much apprieciated. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
FWIW: I've bought many gaskets off e-bay and usually get some great deals! | ||
| Ezblast |
The Baker Drum kit for an M2 fits a Blast - first piece of knowledge from Terry P. The Baker drum allows for a much smoother shifting bike than the stock drum, is a more durable unit than the stock drum, transfers less shock to the gears, and unlike the stock drum that holds things together with a clip that could break at any time - HD spit - the Baker drum holds it together with a Bolt. I got mine at NHRS for 260.00, however, American Sport Bike sells them now at that price and is a sponsor. http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/6034.html EZ | ||
| Nurider |
Ahhhh... I see how it would work better. The lobes are not near as drastic as the stock piece... But I will have to pass my brain says Hell Ya thats what you need. But my budget says you can do without.... For now anyways... Thank you for layin it out there for me, now I can see exactly what your talkin bout. I'll probably start a new thread in a couple weeks when I get the parts in and get the bike up and running. Im excited I love buying broken things they are so much cheaper for the same quality of product. They just need a little TLC. Plus it leaves more room for upgrades. | ||
| Ezblast |
Well then at least get the gears back cut, that will smooth out the shifting a bit as well. EZ | ||
| Sycho |
Wow Nurider, I've been sittin back readin your posts and am amazed at the depth and dedication you exude in the project you are embarking on. I wish I had your mechanical know how. I bought my Blast due to the fact that it is simple to Learn to work on, but am still fearful that I will muck things up. It does give you some self satisfaction when you have done your own repairs and mods, just look at EZ's bike, and Gearheaderiko having raced and helped with racers knows a sh*tload when it comes to makin them go fast. Definitely keep us posted and you will not be disappointed in this bike. It is a great handling, fun and economical way of gettin around. I see you posted it was your first bike, but have you ridin a street bike before?} |
