| Author | Message | ||
     Jordanplayer |
Hey Guys, I'm having issues with my Blast stalling out after getting it started up. I don't have any issues actually getting the bike started, but once it is running I have to constantly give it a little throttle or it will die on me. On startup, it also doesn't sound like it is idling higher (which I believe it should do at the beginning). I am able to ride the bike normally around the surrounding area (anywhere from 0-65+ mph) without any issues throttling/shifting up to speed. However, whenever I come to a complete stop I have to give it a little gas or it will start chugging and stall out. Was wondering if it's something as simple as adjusting the idle speed or a more serious issue. Thanks! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Welcome Jordanplayer! More often than not, its "Das Boot"! AKA: the intake manifold coupler or boot. Its the most common part to go bad. It will be difficult to see if it has any cracks with it still mounted on the bike (Murphy's law says the crack will be on the side you cant see). Anyway thats the first thing to check. I'm not convinced thats the problem, but thats always the first place to look. Your profile doesnt list mileage, but on a Blast that old changing the spark plug should be high on your list. Its a mandatory change at 10,000 miles. | ||
| Ezblast |
Concur! | ||
| Ezblast |
And Welcome! | ||
| Kauai1800 |
I'd put some Seafoam in the gas. Sounds like it could be a tad of water in the bottom of the tank and the isopropyl alcohol in the seafoam should draw that out. You could try dumping out the tank too (or instead...). (Message edited by kauai1800 on February 20, 2011) | ||
| Jordanplayer |
Thanks for the tips; will be trying these various things over the next few weeks. | ||
| Ezblast |
You know, if das boot is new, then you may need to adjust your idle up a tad, but do that only after your sure every thing else is ok. Usually idle goes up when das boot starts to go bad, and people adjust it downward as a quick fix, not realizing something is causing the rise in idle. Then when the boot gets obviously worse, they swap it out, but half the time they forget to adjust the idle accordingly as well, and end up with that new set of problems - too low idle, and stalls. But make sure das boot is fresh and new first, then the slight adjustment up on the idle - this assumes no other carb work was done to the carb - lol EZ | ||
| Jordanplayer |
The oil in the bike seems really low (even though I've had it serviced somewhere around 400 miles ago). I tested it after I had the bike running a good couple minutes and the dipstick was dry on the bottom. After letting it cool down a bit I also put a finger in and only touched a tiny level of oil at the bottom. My oil light isn't on when I'm riding (only when the engine hasn't started). Is that normal? I still think the bike needs a bit of oil; I picked up some Mobil 1 20W-50 motorcycle oil and some Seafoam to run through the tank. I'm pretty much a mechanic noob so bear with me. I did check das boot on the bike for visible cracks but didn't see anything on either side. I also know where the idle screw is; but is it even possible to adjust with the gas tank still on? (special tool?) I also can't find where the spark plug is located; the service manual shows pictures of the spark plug but not where it is on the bike. | ||
| Kauai1800 |
Spark plug hides deep under the left side of the bike...it's in a rather hard-to-reach spot under your left knee. I'd recommend taking off the gas tank - it might seem like overkill, but it's not hard at all! Makes getting at all these bits much easier. And sounds like your oil is definitely low. Should be about 1" up the dipstick when warm. You have downloaded the service manual pdfs offa here ya? Makes things much easier! Ask Ez, Erik etc but I'm pretty sure that I had to remove the airbox to get at that idle screw. Seafoam! Seafoam! | ||
| Themagster |
Some might say it's a bit of overkill but I check my oil every other gas stop without fail. When it drops to halfway down between the two lines on the dipstick, I add to the top line. Better safe than sorry. Even though I use full synthetic oil, I still change every 3,000 miles religiously, just makes me feel better. | ||
| Ezblast |
Concur with Themagster - I usually check mine every other trip - lol EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
1st: To check the oil the engine must be hot. A couple of minutes wont do it. Only add ounces at a time too. Between the lines is not a quart, its more like 8 ounces. Also a Blast sitting for a while (even only a week) wont show any oil in the frame until you start it. Take the tank cover off to get at the idle speed adjustment screw (or drill a hole in the tank cover). Take the airbox off to get at the idle mixture screw (or bend a small screwdriver to get at it once you've removed the epa plug). Take the tank off (or just barely out of the way) to get at the plug. You can do it with the tank on, but its not for the novice mechanic or inexperienced Blast wrench. You may have to take the boot off to see any cracks. They will not be easily seen unless the boot is very bad. | ||
| Jordanplayer |
Well, interesting update today. I added a little bit of oil (just to make sure the bike wasn't bone dry), and I also added about 1.5oz of seafoam to the gas tank. I planned on taking the bike out for a short trip, about 26 miles total to burn through some gas and see if that would help clear anything up. I got the bike started up and running for about 5 minutes before I headed out (no issues except for stalling near idle as before). About halfway through the trip I was coming up to a stoplight and braking + downshifting from 5th gear when the engine shut off (low rpms at the time). It seemed almost exactly like what happens whenever you run out of gas while riding. Immediate loss of power, engine shuts off, and you coast to a stop. I tried starting the bike on the spot, wouldn't turn over so I pushed it to a local restaurant. I checked the fuel line switch and changed it from on to reserve; tried starting it a couple more times but no dice (also shook the bike and could hear gas in the tank). Was able to get a hold of someone with a truck to pick me up and load my bike to get back home. Tried starting the bike at home (since it had been sitting for a while and cooled off); still same problem. I know my battery isn't dead/low (have had that issue before), but when I try to start the bike it sounds like it is trying to start up but not getting any fuel or something. Just kind of makes a chug chug chug chug chug sound when the clutch is in and starter is pressed. Any ideas? (Message edited by JordanPlayer on March 01, 2011) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Check for spark. First pull the spark plug wire off the plug and use another good spark plug to check for spark. If there isnt any spark there, then remove the plastic "points/timing" cover on the right side and see if the LED is flashing when you turn the engine over. No flash, no spark. You should leave this cover off until your bike is fixed as its a very easy way to tell if your ignition system is working. (cover it if its raining though). I'm beginning to suspect a bad safety switch. | ||
| Johneblast |
Welcome Jordanplayer. You may want to check the ignition module the next time it dies. Take the dust cover off(it's on the right side by the brake pedal). If you have the original plastic, you can fit a knife blade in to pop it out or drill a small hole to pull it out with whatever trips your trigger. Don't drill too deep, though, as the module is not far behind it. You will have to replace it after you do this a time or two. I did it twice and the little dog ears on the plastic warped or bent out of shape and it is down the road. I bought a chrome cover that fit perfect at HD. Anyway, after you have the dust cover off, turn the key/ignition switch on and look to see if the little red led light on the module lights up. If it does, it is working. If it doesn't, you'll want to try and static test it. That is to say, do the static timing procedure to make sure you are off time by the timing being retarded. If the module still doesn't light up while doing the static timing, the module is probably shot. One last thing to conclude this mini novel, check the kickstand/clutch sensors and the bank angle sensor(if the bike has been dropped). Good luck. Happy trails. | ||
| Ezblast |
Battery or ignition module - its a 2000 - most assuredly, its probably the ignition, but rule out the kick stand and clutch safeties first, on a 2000 those went bad as well. EZ | ||
| Jordanplayer |
Well, looks like I'll be checking the ignition module first (seems like the easiest part to get to without taking multiple parts off the bike). Is there a way to test the kick stand and clutch safeties? I read a little about disabling the clutch safety by switching around one of the diodes? I know the box is 3 x 3 and wanted to make sure which one. I assume a kickstand safety is supposed to do something when the stand is down and you start riding... but one of the earlier times I was on the bike for about 10-15 seconds riding when I realized it and put it up. What about neutral safety switch? Is there any way to test that/where is it located? The plastic ignition cover that was previously mentioned, I believe it is this round metal plate with a V2 on it and a couple of flathead screws in the picture? http://img145.imageshack.us/i/img36242.jpg/ (Message edited by JordanPlayer on March 03, 2011) | ||
| Johneblast |
Yep, that's it. If you are standing on the left side of the bike, I believe it is the diode on the left that you flip. My manual is in the garage and I'm not headed that way yet. It sounds like the kickstand may be already be disconnected if you were able to ride off with it down. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Clutch Diode safety switch link: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/55319.html The fact that the bike would ride with the kickstand down says at least one switch is bad or bypassed/disconnected. Jump the 2 wires going down to the kickstand together to bypass. See the above link for the diode. The clutch switch is the same as the kickstand switch its up at the clutch lever. But just doing the diode and kickstand switch bypasses most if not all your safety switches. Those 'fixes' are free. The ignition is going to run $125-$200 and I'm doubtful its the cause. Yes, thats the timing/"points"/ignition cover. | ||
| Ezblast |
Concur! Always work from cheap to expensive. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Thanks Johneblast. I wrote while you posted and I'd have trimmed mine down had I known you already got it covered! | ||
| Johneblast |
Visa-versa! I'd say it was a tie goes to the typist! Always glad to help when I can.  | ||
| Jordanplayer |
Took a while but finally had some time to test the ignition; red light blinks whenever the bike is trying to start up so at least that is good (since it's an expensive part). Next I'm gonna switch the diode and test the safety switches. If I'm still having problems I'm gonna take the battery to Autozone and get them to fully charge it. I asked if they could test it before but the employee said they would have to remove/crack some plastic casing on it and I wouldn't be able to use the battery after that. Battery was supposedly fairly new when I bought the bike but you never really know. If all of this still leads me to a dead end then spark plug will be checked (since it takes the most work to get to). | ||
| Jordanplayer |
Dropped off the battery yesterday to get it charged all the way up, picked it up about an hour ago and put it back in the bike. I disabled clutch safety switch using the diode method; also the kickstand wires are already disconnected. Bike still wouldn't start up so going to take a look at the spark plug/wire. I don't have a spare good spark plug on hand, is there a safe way to test whether or not the one currently in the bike has good spark? | ||
| Ezblast |
Twist the kick stand wires together! then it will be disabled. Right now it is shutting you down. EZ | ||
| Jordanplayer |
These are the wires coming off the kickstand: http://img192.imageshack.us/i/img3627h.jpg/ Do they normally have the plastic tab/connector on them? Do I need to cut that off then twist/duck tape? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
That is the plug for the kickstand switch. Those wires must be jumped/connected together. If you're not overly concerned about retaining the existing kickstand safety switch, cut the wires and other half of the connector off the switch at the kickstand. Join those 2 wires together then plug it in to the other connector. That way you can reinstall another switch if you are so inclined or need to. Concur: Unplugging it will just shut you down. | ||
| Jordanplayer |
O, it was already unplugged like that... lol Will plug it in and try a few things to see what happens. | ||
| Jordanplayer |
It's not that switch; found the wires that the piece would connect to and they are already taped up (and have been for a while); going to check spark plug now. | ||
| Ezblast |
The wires should be twisted together - check. EZ |
