| Author | Message | |||
     Dummkauf |
Yes, the needle was shimmed up last year when I installed the D&D exhaust. Would the new intake require me to shim the needle even higher?(I'm thinking no, but just checking) Thanks for all the advice! | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
I'm thinking no also, but EZ is the stack king though! "2 shims", like all the other recommendations are just a guideline to start from. Like factory settings, most will do fine by them, but the fine tuning comes down to the individual bike and rider. You may need different settings, but if your settings are vastly different from the recommendations, you should be concerned as to why. | |||
| Ezblast |
Concur! And you should be ok where you are at. Also - you are using a new carb intake gasket - right? EZ (Message edited by ezblast on September 05, 2010) | |||
| Dummkauf |
Yes, brand new gasket between the stack and the carb  | |||
| Leonard |
Hey guys..I had posted a couple of days back that my blast was smoking..and thought that it could be the rocker box gasket leak. Over the weekend, I striped everything down, changed the transmission fluid and cleaned up all the engine and transmission areas. The smoke is coming from that nozzle (The breather tube ?) in the airbox. It is spewing out smoke like the exhaust!! Is this normal? | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
Some is normal, but enough that you'd notice it is not. What oil are you using? Is the oil overfilled? | |||
| Leonard |
Thanks Erik, I'm using Amsoil 20 50 in the engine, I changed that at least a month ago. I've put more than 200 miles since. I don't think it is overfilled, but will check it when I get back today. That reminds me..I have the plastic cover above the intake venturi off and have noticed blasts of heat on my left thigh occasionally. I don't know whether this is related | |||
| Leonard |
As a matter of fact the oil level was low/nonexistent. I filled it up so that it registers half way on the dipstick. I didn't ride the bike but fired it up and kept it running for 10 minutes or so ans there wasn't much smoke through the breather hose. Will have to ride it around for a while and see whether it comes back! | |||
| Ezblast |
hopefully not - keep an eye on the oil, check when hot and check after long trips and/or once a week - depending on which comes first - as a minimum. EZ | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
"As a matter of fact the oil level was low/nonexistent" If you checked it cold, thats how it will read. Any Blast left for maybe a week or more (maybe less) without running will show absolutely no oil on the dipstick or even covering the frame. It will look bone dry. Start it and let it get fully warmed up and it will show full. Often, just letting it idle wont do the trick either. Because of this anomaly, its good to get into the habit of checking it on a regular basis immediately after a ride | |||
| Ezblast |
Translated - you could have overfilled, run it around 5000 and over rpms for a while and you'll lose a tad - don't do that standing still - a hundred miles should do - humor - lol - drain a couple ounces and re-evaluate. EZ | |||
| Leonard |
I let it idle for 10 minutes before checking the oil(the time I found it to be dry), I thought that should be enough to warm it up  ..That sounds like a good plan. Ride 100 miles then evaluate oil, ride 100 more, reevaluate. A sample of 10 should be enough  BTW, the transmission oil change made a big difference in terms of shifting. I wanted to see the insides of the primary, but chickened out in the last minute | |||
| Milt |
IMHO, the primary is not interesting enough to suffer the hassle of opening it up - particularly if you're just curious. Don't ask me how I know. | |||
| Ezblast |
1/2 hr riding is needed for the oil to be hot enough to check. EZ | |||
| Newsboyny |
So I popped off the left side airbox trim (the "inlet"), and when I screwed the two fasteners back in place, the threaded rubber grommet in the frame rail fell into the frame. I fished it back out, but how the hell do you re-install that thing!? | |||
| Ezblast |
expoxy - use the metal type - jbweld. EZ | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
If you are talking about the rubber threaded grommet, its called a "well nut". Just push it back into the frame until it sits on the rubber shoulder. Its helpful to put a bolt through it first, that way if you push it too far you can pull it back out. Well nuts are used to hold many of the black trim pieces on and are available at a good hardware supply store (McFadden & Dale, Granger, probably not Ace or Home Depot). Most are the same size except for the flyscreen. There isnt any reason to replace them with anything else or glue them in. They are especially handy to use on motorcycles prone to a lot of vibration. http://www.estcoenterprises.com/well-nuts.html http://www.desmoparts.com/products/parts-catalog/m etric-nuts/rubber-well-nuts | |||
| Newsboyny |
New question: bike won't start, or if it does, runs a few seconds then dies. Replaced the spark plug with an Iridium, didn't help. Then tried taking the gas cap off. Gas cap off: runs perfect. Gas cap on, fuel vent line disconnected: dies. Gas cap on, fuel vent line connected: dies. With the cap off it runs better than it ever has (though I'm sure the new plug helps.) I'm thinking bad rollover valve, can someone else confirm or debunk this for me? | |||
| Swampy |
Good trouble shooting process, sounds like a perfectly good and correct finding. | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur! Pull the valve and disable it. The hardest part will be getting the valve out. WARNING: If you pull the fuel cap assembly apart, including the flange pieces, it may not go back together very well. With a Blast as old as yours the rubber is really dried out and the only thing keeping it from shrinking is the flange. I think the rollover valve can be pulled out without pulling the flange apart (but I dont remember). | |||
| Newsboyny |
Thanks guys! How do I go about disabling it? Looks like the rollover valve is what vent tube fitting is attached to in the photos in the manual. | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes, the vent tube is attached to the rollover valve. All you need is a fitting there, nothing else. So you pull the valve out and remove the ball or just cut the valve part off. I think you'll figure it out once you get into it. After thats done you can install a "Trackside Vent Hose with Valve" that can take the place of a rollover valve and that long vent line to the ground. $13 http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=&L2=&L3=&L4=& item=TOP_29216_G (they do come in several colours) | |||
| Newsboyny |
"Product improved" the rollover valve, quick and easy. Just cut the ball off the bottom with a Dremel and a cut-off wheel. Didn't even have to remove the filler skirt or trim ring to do it (luckily I have small hands!) Before:   Next problem: it starts and runs fairly smoothly, but as soon as I give it gas it chokes and dies; and backfires out the carb. I disabled the clutch switch, checked out the kickstand switch, neither was the culprit. Just dropped the bottom off the carb and found small globs floating in the bowl. Looks like the gas is going bad and/or this carb has never been cleaned (very likely with 15k+ miles and 9 years old.) Sprayed the jets out and re-installed them, cleaned the bowl and filled it with fresh gas, now I'm just waiting for the battery to charge so I can fire it up. I'll report back later! | |||
| Newsboyny |
The other reason I dropped the bottom of the carb: to check the jet sizes. Turns out it's still running the original 42/165 combo. Time to order new jets! | |||
| Newsboyny |
Finally got it to fire up, ran rough and wouldn't accept any throttle without dying. Dumped half a bottle of Gumout Fuel System Cleaner in the tank and let it idle for about 20 minutes or so. It ran pretty rough, popping and choking and occasionally dying. Whatever was clogging the carb must have cleared itself out, because all of a sudden the idle picked up (I'd tightened down the idle speed screw to keep it running) and settled at about 3-4k. Backed down the idle speed, and now when I give it throttle it ROARS. Can't wait for the test ride! | |||
| Newsboyny |
I was a little worried about a damaged diaphragm. (From the Nightrider page listed above "A damaged diaphragm will have the symptoms of the engine being able to idle, but will not accept any throttle.") A quick check of the slide confirmed it was fine. The following video was very handy: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L4knwjlNC1o&feature =related | |||
| Newsboyny |
Holy crap! I should have done that a long time ago. Bike runs better than it ever has! The popping and stuttering I was getting off-throttle is gone, throttle response is MUCH smoother, and there's definitely more power and torque. When in doubt, run some fuel system cleaner through the tank. | |||
| Ezblast |
Useful carb info - by Buelistic. EZ | |||
| Jschatz |
So took the time to pop some new jets in my blast and drill out idle screw. I installed a 45/180/2.5 turns out combo to go with my jardine exhaust and stock modded air box. The bike runs much smoother and no longer pops on deccel but now the idle is racing high all the time. The bike will "idle" down the street at 15 mph with no throttle input. What the crap did I mess up? I did not shim the needle and the float bowl was only off for 5 mins, I did not touch the float. My boat didn't look to be torn but I have ordered a new one anyways. Experts flood me with your advice. Ray | |||
| Ezblast |
Too rich drop down to 175 jet as recommended. EZ |
