| Author | Message | ||
     2hrcommute |
Tall stack mods done, but no splitter for now. Gas mileage back up to normal. Less throttle at 70 mph. No gas splatter so far. Runs great and looks cool. Love the Blast! Wish it would last forever. Thanks guys!! | ||
| 2hrcommute |
Installed the homemade splitter in the tall stack today and now it sputters at 3/4 to full throttle and losses power. Rev limiter worked at 30 mph in 1st gear. Changed the boot and still the same. My homemade splitter does have the 3/8 hole a little far to the left. Any ideas b4 I go and dremel the splitter out? | ||
| 2hrcommute |
Also the tank vent passed the blow test. No kinks or clogges. | ||
| Ezblast |
Did you use a new intake gasket? EZ | ||
| 2hrcommute |
Yes, I used the new and old one together thinking it would work better. | ||
| 2hrcommute |
Also I used 3 outwears filters because I read the directions wrong. So I took 2 off and took off the old gasket and left the new one. | ||
| Ezblast |
Just 1 filter and 1 gasket - you should be golden! EZ | ||
| 2hrcommute |
Golden is an understatement! Wow, what a difference! Thank you! | ||
| Dummkauf |
quick question as I can't seem to find the answer(yes I did search first  ) Anyway, I've finally found time to do the intake, and I've got my velocity stack and outerwears cover, a couple larger jets, and will be getting some carb springs to brace with shortly. However, there is that tube with an open T connector that points diretly into the carb that I'm not sure what to do with? I was thinking that I could just remove the piece that sticks out and goes to the carb and replace that other T connector with a straight connector, but I'm not sure if that will cause me problems or if I need to vent it out somewhere. Pics below:   | ||
| Ezblast |
Hang that on your scoop hanger and add a small filter, run the hose down by oil drain hose.  You can see the filters hanging on each bike. EZ | ||
| Dummkauf |
Scoop hangar? Not sure I'm following where that is? As far as a filter for it, anything in particular or just a crank case filter that will fit in the hose and then run the house out somewhere? | ||
| Crackhead |
scope hanger is on the left side covering the coil. | ||
| Ezblast |
just a crank case filter - yes. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur! Addendum: That hose doesnt do anything but vent the engine and it starts at the upper rocker/valve cover. You can really run that hose just about anywhere you wish, but down nearer the ground is best because its going to spit out some oil. A simple hose without T's is all you need. A filter really isnt needed, but its good to have one. Filtered or not wont affect running, but plugging it will! It really only sucks on start up, after that it blows crank fumes out. After you do this mod you'll probably notice a decrease in oil consumption. However, some Blasts will blow very little oil out the PCV breather tube, some will blow A LOT. So, if the back of your bike gets coated with oil, dont panic. Its just the breather and you'll need to reroute it. Drilling a small hole in the filter at its lowest point will allow any collecting oil to drip out with very little risk of sucking any debris in. You can also route the hose with a can to catch that oil ("catch can") and a breather filter and catch can set up can also be done. I'd go the simplest route unless oil consumption dictates otherwise. I'm not so sure I made it any simpler, but I thought it might help to know what you're really doing when you reroute the breather away from the carb!! | ||
| Ezblast |
Bravo!  Well stated! | ||
| Dummkauf |
Good to know. Assuming I have an oil spitting bike, how much oil are we talking about? I am now getting the picture of my bike spitting oil on the road and my rear wheel slipping on it. For now I'll just add the filter and see what happens, but I'm just curious in case the filter fills up with oil. | ||
| Ezblast |
For that to happen you have to be above 5000rpms for long periods of time - but a new pcv valve and grommet will will slow it down a bit as well. EZ | ||
| Dummkauf |
good to know, thanks EZ! Now I just need to pick up a crank filter and I drill some holes in the cylinder fins for my springs and I should be good to go Thanks again for all the info. Oh and I almost forgot. When I called outerwears for those filters, the guy says "Is this for a Buell", me "Yes", sales guy "Ed Zane", me "Yes" LOL! They know you by name over there. (Message edited by dummkauf on August 28, 2010) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You should add the drain hole (or drain) to the filter. If it is a lot, the filter will help spray it around!!! The oil also wont fill up in the hose and filter. It will spray out first. You dont have to be at over 5000 rpm for extended periods. A 5 mile ride to work will be enough (and thats only 1 mile of freeway at 75mph). There's only one way to find out and if you mount the filter anywhere near your rear tire, well, then thats probably not a good idea. If oil spewed out at a rate fast enough for you to slide around on it though, your engine will seize before you get into any real trouble  A clear plastic water bottle makes a great, easy to read, catch can. They're easy to find too. Just pull over to the side of the road and pick one up  | ||
| Sycho |
"A clear plastic water bottle makes a great, easy to read, catch can. They're easy to find too. Just pull over to the side of the road and pick one up" Eww!! Somebody else's mouth was on that thing!! | ||
| Thump |
You'd be lucky if it was 'only' a mouth .........  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You guys are bad.....LOL! | ||
| Dummkauf |
Ok, finally got the springs installed to brace the carb, the new jets installed, and the velocity stack with outerwears filter on it. However, the idle still seems a bit low to me, it died once at a stop light idling, but only once, it kept idling for the rest of the ride, but seems like it's idling a bit low to me. I'm currently running a 46 primary and 180 main in it, but I'm thinking I might need to jump up to a 47 or 48 primary. The idle mixture screw is turned out about 4 turns and the top end seems to be running fine. I don't have a tach to hook up to check the RPM's, but is my thinking correct with getting a bigger primary or is there something else I should be trying? Also, I'm running the D&D exhaust as well. | ||
| Dummkauf |
Ok, finally got the springs installed to brace the carb, the new jets installed, and the velocity stack with outerwears filter on it. However, the idle still seems a bit low to me, it died once at a stop light idling, but only once, it kept idling for the rest of the ride, but seems like it's idling a bit low to me. I'm currently running a 46 primary and 180 main in it, but I'm thinking I might need to jump up to a 47 or 48 primary. The idle mixture screw is turned out about 4 turns and the top end seems to be running fine. I don't have a tach to hook up to check the RPM's, but is my thinking correct with getting a bigger primary or is there something else I should be trying? Also, I'm running the D&D exhaust as well. | ||
| Dummkauf |
also, haven't gotten a breather filter yet, but leaving that hose open(no dirty bottles) didn't result in any oil getting dumped out, so I think I'm good there | ||
| 2hrcommute |
You don't need no breather filter. I went with Swampy's breather mod 5,000 miles ago. Didn't cost me a dime. Turned the pcv valve on the head 180 degrees on the head and rerouted out the passenger peg. I even reused the T connector as a coupling by plugging the open hole with a screw. I didn't have tach when I did those mods. Just rode it for 2 or 3 days to make sure all the bugs were out and then turned the idle adjustment screw when hot till it sounded good. You'll have to wait for the other guys to see if the idle mixture is right. Mine was V&H exhaust 45/175 jets 2 1/2 turn idle mixture screw. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
If the idle is low, adjust the idle speed adjustment screw. Although adjusting the idle mixture screw will alter the idle speed, thats not what its for. It only to adjust the mixture. If you're not adjusting the idle speed with the idle speed adjusting screw, then you're just chasing your tail. Get a timing light with a tach (and one with an adjustable advance is even more helpful). | ||
| Ezblast |
Actually the first thing that happens - boot gets a very slight tear, idle goes up, they turn it down. Then you fix it and the idle goes down. So if air screw is between 2 1/2 out and 3 turns out and idle still low, considering everything else good, I would turn the idle up just a tad. EZ | ||
| Dummkauf |
Will try that next. I'm assuming I will want it good and warmed up when adjusting the idle screw as well correct? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes. Otherwise you'll be adjusting it with the enrichener ("choke") on (just as you would be adjusting the idle mixture with the "choke" on). If you havent shimmed the needle yet do it before you make the final adjustments to the idle mixture and slow jet. You are going/have shimmed the needle right? |
