| Author | Message | ||
     2hrcommute |
Okay guys here's the verdict. Boot-had 2 tears on the top engine side. How I don't know.It only has 300 miles on it. Any ideas? Exhaust that broke was at the engine caused by the gasket between the engine and header breaking at the flange. I added a flex connector by the muffler to help the stock muffler last till next year (I learned that trick on this site-THANK YOU GUYS). -----It did not appear to be overheating or lean because I checked the spark plug (thanks for the tip Leonard)and the mechanic said it was normal. So the rough start was the boot. That begs the question-Did I install the boot wrong? What should I be careful of when installing? How long does the boot last? The parts come tomorrow and I'll install Friday night It appears the 2 problems weren't related | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur! It may also be speckled with metal bits in extreme cases. You can also experience more knock or ping, hesitation on acceleration (bogging), hard starting and overheating (overheating is also tough to notice for the novice, except in extreme cases). To check the boot beyond a visible inspection (with the boot off) is the "WD40 Method". Spraying WD40 or carb & choke around the manifold connection usually changes the idle rpm. No change in rpm-no leak. Also: At 10,000 miles you need a new spark plug. Change the things you know are bad first, rather than just changing things-in other words: dont change the spark plug expecting to fix the problem if you havent already changed the slow jet. ..........uhhhh:never mind! (Message edited by Gearheaderiko on June 24, 2010) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I'm not sure where the tears were, but overtightening can cause it. Running with an unsupported carb can cause it too. Backfiring is probably the most common cause for boot splits. Boots can last a very, very long time, even with the carb unsupported. 10,000 miles easily. | ||
| Ezblast |
Or just ten - lol EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
.......or just 10  | ||
| 2hrcommute |
Gear, Did as u instructed w/ the slow jet, but had to do some extra.... Turns out that the radiator hose used by the previous owner as a boot warped the air box. The air box wouldn't seal around carb and sucked dirt that clogged the idle air intake. Fixed that and......TAA DAAA!!! Started up quick and ran great. Thanks guys!!!! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Glad to hear it | ||
| Martyc66 |
Okay I've purchased the Mikuni HSR42 Carb and need Jetting help, I installed it and took it fr a short ride, and it stumbles a little bit at take off, and pops alot on decell. So that tells me its to lean Right? can someone get me a base line jet setting. Thanks in advance, Marty | ||
| Ezblast |
Call Terry of JTS Performance - they are a sponsor and he runs one on his Blast - lol - he would know. EZ | ||
| Roblast |
So, I'm planning on rejetting next weekend, after reading all about it on here. I'm sick of the pseudo backfire on deceleration, and want to smooth things out. Since I've never done this, but am of average mechanical ability, I figure I should at least have a look at what I'm going to be doing. I go to pull the airbox cover off and I can't get the %^&( screw out. I'm using a #2 Phillips. It's kinda tough to spin and kinda has a ratcheted (brrrrt brrrrt) feel to it when I turn it. Did the dealer strip it when they did my 1K service on Friday (oh WHY didn't I have them rejet - because I want to learn)? Now what? Also - I'm assuming that I can get a spare "Das Boot" to carry around at the local Harley dealer where I live - I don't have to get it from the Buell dealer 50 miles away. Follow up: I can't leave well enough alone, so I grabbed a pair of vice grips & tried getting the screw out. The screw came out w/ the knurled nut plastic insert thing attached to it. The big things that I noticed are that the hose going to the venturi has a flat spot worn on it - to the point that I can see a fine line of metal at the venturi end. I assume that should be replaced. Also, the air filter is all worn on the outboard end side. Normal? Finally - when I pull the float bowl, is it going to be filled w/ gas? If so, tips on how not to spill it all over are appreciated... I'll need to replace the carb gasket too - right? Thanks for all your patience. I'm just learning this stuff but I am determined... (Message edited by roblast on July 04, 2010) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
"Das Boot" will probably only be available at a Buell dealer. If you have the part number (27443-00Y) an HD dealer might get it for you (but it wasnt that way before they closed Buell). Order online unless you need a boot right away. Float bowl will be full of gas.Turn the gas off and run it till it dies. That will leave as little gas in the line and bowl as possible. If you pull the float bowl straght down you wont spill it. If you take the carb off, you will leak gas. USE a good well fitting screwdriver to remove the float bowl screws. They are often easy to strip. You do not need to replace the gasket (and I dont recommend it unless you have to). Leave the gasket alone. If you pull it off, you may not get it back on. Dont worry about the PCV hose going to the carb 'venturi'. I dont know where it got the flat spot from, but if you want to decrease oil consumption you dont want that hose pointed into the carb anyway. I cant help you with the stock airbox as I havent used one in many years. I'm doubtful they even checked the air filter and I'd probably look at the primary adjuster bolt to see if the spacer is still there. My experience and others experience have left me very doubtful that the dealer does anything to a Blast at the 1000 mile service except take your money and leave your bike out in the rain  | ||
| 2hrcommute |
denso spark plug IXU01-27 where do i get one? I've tryed and tryed. | ||
| Ezblast |
Sparkplugs.com EZ | ||
| Truthnexile |
Howdy fellas, After reading up on rejetting procedures I got around to doing it on my 2000, my first time doing this job. These threads and the video link made me curious and confident enough to attempt it. I've been running the V&H exhaust & K&N air filter for awhile. I rejetted with 175/45, replacing the 166/42, shimmed the needle at .050, and set the idle at 2 1/2 turns out. I replaced the float bowl o-ring as well. I didn't use a steel ruler but was painstakingly careful in reassembly to not pinch the diaphragm. Test riding the bike, my idle was way too low at 2 1/2 turns out, so had to play with it a bit. I replaced the intake boot a few months back and don't believe I have any vacuum leaks. Does this little irregularity sound like a potential error in reassembly on my part? I'm just wary with my limited carburetor experience. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
That screw is the idle mixture screw and although it will change the idle speed, thats not what its for. You need to turn the idle speed adjustment screw which is attached to where the throttle cable hooks onto the carb. Go back to 2 1/2 turns, then adjust the idle speed. If the bike doesnt run well, then we need to look further. That jetting is a big jump on the 2000, so its not surprising it needed a little idle speed adjustment as well. | ||
| Truthnexile |
Alright Gearhead, I'm calling it a done deal for now. I got it running and idling well and put the mixture screw back where it should be, 2 1/2 turns out. I might have had a lapse there, but if it takes a dumb question to learn from it, good deal. Such is life, haha. I just had to wipe the sweat out of my eyes and reassess the situation. Taking the time to assemble the airbox/carb/boot assembly in proper sequence also helps immensely as well, lol It didn't run bad before so I'm interested to see the difference. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I think you should notice a huge improvement | ||
| Truthnexile |
Right offhand I notice no more cold or decel backfiring- that is definitely a nice change. I got the jets off ebay recently along with an iridium plug at a bargain. Definitely seem to have more balanced combustion now. | ||
| 2hrcommute |
My turn to modify my intake according to the above M2 stack, Outwears filters, homemade splitter and carb support. Ive already added the V&H exhaust and 175 jet. I don't have access to a dyno w/ oxygen sensor, but I want at least 45 mpg @ 70 mph. Now I get 40 mpg. But I don't want to run lean and overheat. So should I use the 175 or 180 jet? | ||
| Ezblast |
Its a V&H - go 175. EZ | ||
| 2hrcommute |
Cool, I did your stock air box mod until the tall stack and filters get here. Had to get the mpg up so I'm not running so rich. I can give a mpg estimate tomorrow morning. | ||
| 2hrcommute |
Well I'm still getting 39 mpg. I thought rerouting the breather and installing the Denso racing spark plug would help. I use to get 48 mpg. What gives? Sometimes there's gas in the bottom of the stock air box. It splashes down onto the sprocket it cover. | ||
| Ezblast |
You know you can run the V&H with a 170, but with that stack/filter combo 175 would be a safer bet, riding it like you stole it? EZ | ||
| Buellistic |
How about marking your throttle with WHITE paint for WOT, 3/4, 1/2, 1/4, and closed so you can see at your riding position ... Let us know where it is at normal cruse'ing speed ??? | ||
| 2hrcommute |
EZ I ride aggressive, but 98% of my 85 mile commute is at 70 to 75 mph. I already thought of what Buellistic mentioned because when I bought it 2,500 miles ago it needed more than 3/4 throttle to cruise 70 mph. That was b4 all the fixes and mods. Now it needs a little more than 1/2 throttle at 70 mph. Next weekend is when I'm adding the tall stack mods. Hopefully that'll do the trick. Runs great, but part of what I liked was the efficiency. What about the gas splashing out? Has to be at least an ounce of gas. | ||
| Ezblast |
If the EPA hose is still in the carbs vicinity that is probably an oil gas mixture - hard riding will produce that - lol - but yes, I have never had serious reversions on my more stock Blast. EZ | ||
| 2hrcommute |
EZ, The breather hose was rerouted weeks ago. The fluid in the bottom of my stock air box is gas. Appears when I go over 75 mph for any length of time. Gas mileage is now 41 mph average over 500 miles. Also my top speed is 85 mph if that helps. Tomorrow I do the air intake mods from the top of this page. I'm worried that the gas will spill out the tall stack and ruin my Outwears filters or cause a fire. | ||
| Buellistic |
For safety, put a drain hose at the lowest point(improvise) ... Run into a catch container ... Did mine that way ... | ||
| 2hrcommute |
I was thinking along that line, but now I'm switching to the tall stack air intake mod....? I'm drawing a blank. | ||
| Ezblast |
I have no splatter, and my filter, though porous, does not let gas stream out, when I tweeked the float, it acted as a partial dam - lol EZ |
