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Roblast
Posted on Saturday, July 10, 2010 - 01:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm being paranoid. I rejetted to a 45 slow jet on Thursda, then went out for a ride. I was probably paying more attention to stuff than normal, I hear a fast "rat-a-tat-tat" at higher RPM's (right before I shift). It's most prominent in lower gears.
Is that an indication that my Primary is too tight?
I specifically had the spacer removed at the 1K service (which was done at 3K - I bought it w/ 2750 on it) by the dealer. I'm happy to go loosen it, per the instructions here.

Just want to make sure there's not a *serious* problem. Thanks
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Ezblast
Posted on Saturday, July 10, 2010 - 01:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ask the dealer if they followed the manual or did the more acceptable by ear method. If manual, could be the adjuster is getting prematurely worn. Let us know the answer please, then we can give a better answer.
EZ
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Roblast
Posted on Saturday, July 10, 2010 - 02:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dealer (Coziahr in Decatur, IL) says "by the manual".
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Ezblast
Posted on Saturday, July 10, 2010 - 05:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Its way too tight, loosen, holding adjusting bolt in place, then let adjustment bolt out 9 more flats and keeping adjustment bolt in place, tighten back up. Let us know from there.
EZ
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Roblast
Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2010 - 10:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I loosened it up (maybe not enough?) and it gets a way better thunk going into gear, but the tap-tap--tap noise is still there. If I'm riding & get off the throttle the noise goes away.
btw - my local store is out of stock 'til tomorrow, but Harbor Freight has 1/4" drive in-lb torque wrenches on sale for $19.99 (3/8" drive ft-lb too for the same price).
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Buellistic
Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2010 - 11:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"i" want to find the TIGHT SPOT on my primary chain so that it can be adjusted properly ...

Does any one know how to do this ???
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Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2010 - 10:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am now worried that you have an overly worn shoe - I would not ride it much, until the sound is diagnosed - could be a loose bolt as well. Since your going in there other things can be done as well.
EZ
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Roblast
Posted on Monday, July 12, 2010 - 09:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I ran the bike up to the HD dealer, five miles away. They're very nice & were willing to take it for a ride. They heard the noise & thought it was a breathing issue. He said it definitely didn't sound like piston slap, which is what I was most worried about. breathing makes sense, since I had the airbox off the rejet the carb. I got home & removed it again, but didn't really see anything specific. I didn't have time to ride it once I got it reassembled, but will tomorrow. When I reassembled it I was very careful to get it all back together nice & sealed up. If that's not it, the HD dealer said he felt totally confident that I could ride the 40 miles to the Buell dealer w/out problems to get it formally checked out.
Stay tuned...
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Monday, July 12, 2010 - 09:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Are you sure the rat-tat-tat isnt the engine hitting the rev limiter? Is there a specific MPH and gear that it does it in?
(You wouldnt be the first to think something is seriously wrong when hitting the rev limiter)

Breather issue? Thats a new one. I'm really not sure how you can mess up the air cleaner and get noise?!?!
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Roblast
Posted on Monday, July 12, 2010 - 10:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Don't think it's the rev limiter. It's in every gear - most predominantly right before I shift. So if I'm going 35MPH it's there for sure (right before I shift to 4th). Not really familiar w/ the rev limiter though.

The guy at the dealer said the noise was similar to mods he's done on Harelys when he's "opened the air up"
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Ezblast
Posted on Monday, July 12, 2010 - 10:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OMG! 35mph - is when I shift out of second hitting the limiter, 3rd would be max around 50, usually 45mph and up when shifting, etc. Thats your tranny trying to jump out of the motor to escape abuse - lol - seriously 2nd shift around 30 or over,45 for 3rd, 55 for 4th, 65 for 5th.
Try that and get back to us.
EZ
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Roblast
Posted on Monday, July 12, 2010 - 10:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok, I was exaggerating, a bit. I do shift lower than you do though EZ. I mean after all, in city driving you way I might as well have a "automatic" ;-} I do make sure the engine isn't lugging. Also - with the noise, I don't want to push my luck.
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Ezblast
Posted on Tuesday, July 13, 2010 - 12:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A shoe is a pretty easy thing to replace - just a lot of bolts to get to it type of thing - really - might be nothing if its not loud.
EZ
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Tuesday, July 13, 2010 - 01:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, if it is anything to do with "breathing", then taking the airbox completely off will either change the noise or make it go away.
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Roblast
Posted on Tuesday, July 13, 2010 - 09:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I cave. It's dealer bound a week from Friday (I'm outta town for a week).
I yanked the airbox, opened the carb bottom, pulled the jet back out, made sure it's clean - then reassembeled it all. Put it all back together. Same as it ever was. Only I musta tweaked the float, even though I was careful, because now I killed my high idle too. Grrrrrrrrrr. Cave. Done. Dealer bound. I'll let you know what they find.
I appreciate your input EZ & Erik. It's driving me nuts. Thanks tons!
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Roblast
Posted on Saturday, July 24, 2010 - 02:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Got the bike to the dealer yesterday. They supposedly "adjusted the idle". No mention of the float being tweaked, so I guess I didn't bump it. They said the noise was just "standard valve train noise, & Buells have noisy valve trains". OK, I guess. So...
I ride home ("like it was stolen" - for you EZ) and the bike dies when I hit the highway off ramp. Every time I slow down the thing dies. I open the throttle & can start it & keep it going as long as I feed it fuel. Get home - call the dealer. They graciously come & pick it up for me - since I didn't even make it home w/out a problem. They tow it back & check it out. Now they tell me the air / fuel screw is gone (the one I uncovered & adjusted when I rejetted). They've ordered me a new one - thumbscrew type & I hope I'll get the bike back on Tuesday. Huh.

Anyone else ever have the screw vibrate out after rejetting? Did I need to loctite it in or recap it?

Also - if it's 80F to 90F ambient whenI start the bike 1st thing in the day - should I expect high idle or is it already too warm for the auto-enricher?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, July 24, 2010 - 07:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

They very rarely vibrate out. Its usually because someone forgot to put the spring back in (or other parts if they took the screw out). Or it was turned way more than 2 1/2 turns out.
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Roblast
Posted on Sunday, July 25, 2010 - 11:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Weird. I checked the screw a bunch of times when troubleshooting, so I *know* it was 2.5 turns out when the bike was towed. Hope it was a one time thing & the dealer messed it up.

Any thoughts on ambient temp causing a bike not to high idle?

Thanks - as always.
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Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, July 25, 2010 - 06:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Will still high idle, perhaps it should high idle for less time.
EZ
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Roblast
Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 11:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Got the bike back from the dealer on the weekend. Runs fine. Supposedly they put in the air/fuel mix thumbscrew & adjusted the idle. All appears well.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 08:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Excellent : )
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