| Author | Message | ||
     Leonard |
okay EZ, I'm getting a new boot and gasket on my way back home from work. will see what happens. Thanks Swampy, Erik and EZ for all the help. | ||
| Leonard |
The BOOT!..it's a four letter word!!..that "6 pin deutsch connecter plug" was pretty loose too, but I don't know if that had anything to do with the problem. Anyways..it runs beautiful now. Thanks guys. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Very happy to hear it  | ||
| 2hrcommute |
Hello, I have a quick question that's not in the service manual. I changed the boot and cleaned the orange gas from the tank to the carb.(changed fuel line)(the old boot was a radiator hose) It ran great for 10 miles at 70 mph up to the store to buy STP carb/fuel inj cleaner where I put 1/2 of it in a full tank. Drove the 10 miles back. Next day it idles low and will eventually stall if I don't gas it ever so often. Should I adjust the idle now or wait for the STP to run through? (yes I checked the tank ventilation by blowing through it) | ||
| Swampy |
Sure, why not? You probably still have a slightly plugged Idle air circuit, try running the bike at part throttle, then seal the intake with the palm of your hand, the increased vacuum that occurs will help to dislodge anything in the jets or idle circuit passageways. Then try adjusting your idle air screw, then adjust you idle to your prefference. Or you could take your carb apart and do a thorough cleaning, and then adjust your idle. Or you could install correctly sized main and primary jets, and readjust your idle. Sorry I had a little time  | ||
| 2hrcommute |
I'll try your idle air circuit trick until the weekend. I need to get to work. In the mean time I'll learn how to take apart, clean and reassemble the carb. Where can I go to learn this? Thanks in advance | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Are you sure you havent used too much STP? As anyone who reads this forum knows I'm not a big fan of carb disassembly (and cleaning) for the novice. It usually causes way more problems than it ever cures and is rarely a necessary procedure. It also often leads to the "shotgun" approach of repair-change everything until its fixed. That usually leads to an ad in the classifieds....... Buy a new #45 slow jet ($3-$6), set the idle screw 2 1/2 turns out and see what happens. Clogged slow jet is very common in Blasts that have been sitting. PS motorcycles that havent been run for a while often go through some 'growing pains'. Its best not to obsess on every little thing until you have a few hundred miles on it (granted if its running okay and doesnt seem like it will leave you stranded and it doesnt seem dangerous). You're in the right thread for a lot of carb info. (Written as an addendum to Swampy's advice. He's usually reliable and spot on.) | ||
| 2hrcommute |
Thanks Gearheaderiko, Good advise about obsessing because I am. After I replaced a radiator hose that the prvious owner used for a boot I have been worried. I used a 1/2 bottle of STP after I filled up. I looked through this thread and I can't find the answer to my question. What is the procedure for changing the slow jet? Do I just take the bottom of the carb off and unscrew the old one or do I need to watch for this or that? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes. Take the bottom of the carb off (the float bowl). 4 screws-use a good quality screwdriver. The slow jet is in the center recess (see pic above). Again use a good quality screwdriver. *Be careful not to tweak (jack, twist,spindle or mutilate) the float. *It can be done with the carb on the bike. *If you turn off the gas and run the bike until its stalls, you'll have a good chance of not spilling gas everywhere. The float bowl may still be full, but if you pull it straight down you wont spill it. Loosen (crack) all 4 screws, pull 2 opposite corner screws out, then hold the bowl up as you pull the other 2 out. The bowl should fall right out (careful-pull it straight down). *If you dont turn off the gas, fuel will run out until the tank is empty! Its very simple, but the first time go slow. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/244046.jpg | ||
| 2hrcommute |
That's what I'll do this weekend. Thanks again | ||
| Styxnpicks |
erik... I got a quick one for ya... what jetting should I use for a 10.5:1 stage 2 xb head/cammed blast  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
SWEET! Just to verify:its got an XB head and cams. A good start would be 45 slow jet, 155 main and NO SHIMS on the needle. I'm running 45/150 and a different needle (# N72R- but it wont make that much difference). I'd err on the rich side, so go 155 main. The XB cylinder/piston combo is a lot more efficient, so the mixture should be on the lean side for a Blast. Dont get talked into going richer.* Also check your compression before you start. If the compression isnt up (if the rings havent seated), then running it lean will make it very difficult to start/run. Compression s/b about 210psi. 175 is still good. Less than that, you'll probably need to richen up the mixture until the rings seat. Remember :Too rich and you wash the hone off the cylinder walls. Too lean and you'll fry the piston and possibly the entire top end. *Your results may vary! (Hopefully that wasnt too much info.) Keep us posted | ||
| Ezblast |
Thats going to be one fun Blast! EZ | ||
| Styxnpicks |
i can never never get enuff info!!! yeah its a stage 2 light xb9 head. xb cams, 515 kit, twin tec ignition/mini coil, plastic velocity stack, open pro series header and nkg sparkplug. it beter be fun!!! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
515 kit? Which one? Nikasil cylinder or iron? CP piston or other? If its the CP piston (or you dont know) be very, very, very careful. Listen carefully for any signs of pre ignition/detonation. Adjust the mixture, timing and advance accordingly. (be careful anyway, but....) | ||
| Styxnpicks |
iron cyl / cp piston I really want to get this thing dialed in right... might have to break down and have it dyno tuned once its running | ||
| Crackhead |
I would strongly suggest you do have it dynoed. Or get a wideband O2 kit. The parts bike that i bought never made it past the heat cycle phase before the piston melted. I would ask whoever you bought the parts from what jet size to use for break in. This is what too lean does.  (Message edited by crackhead on June 23, 2010) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur! I've never seen/had a problem with CP pistons except for the 515's.  I even dyno'd it and the mixture came up about the same as I posted above. We did have to back the timing off though. It ran really well for about 500 miles* then the ring landing broke (as seen above and every other one I've seen). I dont want to be a downer, but just pay very close attention. All CP 515's havent failed......... *Racetrack only miles, which included a half dozen break-in heat cycles and 20 minutes running half throttle on the track. It never saw the street. | ||
| 2hrcommute |
My 2002 Blast has a hard time starting. I have to give it full throttle release. It'll sputter. I'll repeat the above till it starts. I've tried Sea foam and this weekend I'm replacing the slow jet w/ a 45. See above post. Do I need to check the auto enricher? Will this go away when I replace the slow jet? | ||
| Swampy |
148 slow jet, and you had probably better check your boot, what you are describing is a leaking intake boot. Look carefully, very carefully.... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur! mostly....... "148 slow jet"He means 48 slow jet. However, a 48 is way too rich for a stock Blast. Get the 45. A 45 will make it better, a 48 and you can throw away the choke! "full throttle release"? While I'm not sure thats appropriate for a family site, do you mean that the throttle is closed all the way? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
and 2 1/2 turns out on the idle screw (remove the factory aluminum plug first). | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Also check the vacuum nipple on the carb close to the boot. It should be capped, but the rubber cap splits with age. *All CA bikes have this vacuum port. Non-CA bikes may not have this vacuum port or may have a nipple there that is not hollow. Twins use this port for the VOES, the Blast doesnt need it since it uses the TPS. VOES/TPS=controls part throttle or wide open throttle advance curves. | ||
| Styxnpicks |
oh how i wish I had that nipple... gotta drill and tap the carb grrrr | ||
| 2hrcommute |
Thanks guys. I'll do all that this weekend. I bought a 45 slow jet. The dealer gave me one that says XL on the receipt. Is that right? Right now I gotta drive 40 miles w/ a broke header to get it rewelded so I can work on the carb this weekend. Hope the 2 prob aren't related, it onlty has 8,600 miles on it | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Styx: I assume you're going to drill the carb to run a VOES? You dont have to run a VOES. You can also drill the intake manifold instead. 2hr: If the engine was running super lean (as in the case of a split boot) it can overheat the exhaust and promote cracking. I'd hope there were related! The same jets fit any CV carbed Buell, Sportster (XL) or "Big Twin". | ||
| 2hrcommute |
Gearheaderiko, How do you tell if it's running lean? Visually the boot looks good. I just replaced it. How do I check it besides visually? | ||
| Leonard |
From what I have heard here: the spark plug would be white or whitish if you are running lean. | ||
| Styxnpicks |
drill the manifold.... BRILLIANT!!! why do i not thing of these simple things (I already have the VOES switch might as well use it) |
