| Author | Message | ||
     Fast1075 |
After an adventure Saturday during the monthly club ride that involved a missed 3-4 shift in the apex of a smokin right hander...I am going to do the "complete everything adjustment" thing to try to combat the occasional false neutral...(that was one scary bleetch having the bike set straight up when I missed the gear). The root of this post is...while I am in there, I am going to replace the clutch pack...(I am convinced the clutch has a release problem when the engine is fully warmed up) I have found a company called Energy One...all new plates and diaphragm...does anyone have personal experience with their products? I have seen good reports for XB and Tubers and such...but nothing Blast specific. I try to work with my local Buell dealer whenever possible...usually that means if I want something that comes in a Buell or Harley box...otherwise, they won't touch it. (must be a dealer restriction thing). Anyways..I figured i'll at least buy the clutch tool from them...NOOOO!!! they only sell tools to card carrying Harley Techs!!! At least they have all the gaskets and most of the odd little widgets I need... So now I get to see the inside of the engine for the first time..... | ||
| Ezblast |
A tubber(M2,X1,etc) 02 should work for a reference for searching for what you need. EZ | ||
| Fast1075 |
I called Energy One and talked to them about the product..I was very impressed with their professionalism and courtesy on the phone...so I ordered a clutch kit and a tool...it will be here on the same day as my Corbin seat (which was shipped on the 2nd) for half the shipping price... | ||
| Fast1075 |
I installed the new clutch...the difference is astonishing for lack of a better word...a bit heavier lever pull...but the shift from neutral to 1st gives only a barely audiable "snick" instead of the usual clunk or grind. shifts are effortless and positive. The stock clutch looked like new when I took it out, with no evidence of damage at all...nothing else is adjusted differently than it was before the clutch change. The stock clutch was not disengaging fully for whatever reason...has me stumped...all I can say is WOW! what a difference. | ||
| Reuel |
Did they have a complete clutch, or did you get the kevlar/steel plates and replace them? All I saw on the web page was the plates and spring. That's all one would need, right? | ||
| Ezblast |
thats because you did the Shift Pawl adjustment and probably check the drum pin size and equalized them as well. The Blast clutch is a Sporster clutch and those puppies survive many a drag season with no mods. Enjoy! EZ | ||
| Fast1075 |
Noooo...I checked the shift pawl and pins..they did not require adjustment....the stock clutch had plenty of bite...i had no problem with slippage...i will keep the old stuff for spares for just in case or if someone else needs 'em. I even checked the old plates and steels on my parallel plate ( nice hunk of 1.5" thick polished granite) for warpage...well within factory spec...not perfect...but within spec... And yes, it was the plate and spring kit. (Message edited by fast1075 on October 28, 2008) (Message edited by fast1075 on October 28, 2008) | ||
| Ezblast |
Ahh - you launching pretty hard, and consistently? Is the drag racer in you working that puppy? - lol - funny that - a lot of Sporty racers use the stock and it doesn't even phase it - but stuff happens, just glad you got it how you like it. The Muller Clutch pull aid is very good at easing clutch pressure and I recommend it to those with stiff clutches - lol EZ | ||
| Fast1075 |
I'm not real big on wheelies and smokey burnouts....but I really like to have fun when my buddy (who rides a new ZX-10) and I go riding...from a dead stop with my bike in 1st gear, I take the idle up to maybe 2k and let the clutch out, then roll on the throttle and let the torque do the rest...I get him every time...he either wheelies and lifts or spins...he's not exactly a Ricky Gadson...it's a BLAST!!! (of course after the first 60 feet it's all over...but you have to enjoy the little battles)..  | ||
| Ezblast |
Know the feeling well - lol  EZ | ||
| Robi |
I'm "seeping" fluid from where the clutch cable comes into the case. When I wiggle it, I see the fluid even. Can I tighten that bolt? Is it a bolt? I don't know what I'm doing wrong, but I don't see it in the manual and haven't found it in the thread yet. Just looked through the PDF again, doing a search for "clutch cable." Cannot find it. I just want to make sure I can take a wrench to it and see if I can stop the seeping w/o throwing off clutch adjustment, etc. Thx. | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
Tightening it won't throw off your adjustment. Be careful though because if it is just loose you can damage the o-ring by over tightening it. If it is already tight though you probably just need an o-ring. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You can also strip the primary cover too by over tightening, or break the 'bolt' (adjuster sleeve). | ||
| Robi |
k. thx. I'm going to try when I get home. where is this at in the manual? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
pg 6-10 -pg 6-13 Though it doesnt actually say clutch cable replacement | ||
| Robi |
Upon closer inspection, the seeping is coming from where the rubber sleeve of the clutch cable slides into the metal sleeve, then both go through the nut then into the primary cover. If it is seeping from the metal sleeve to the rubber sleeve, does this mean I need a new clutch cable? From page 58 of the parts manual, it does not list any separate parts for that area. I'm guessing I need to replace the cable then. | ||
| Ezblast |
Need a new washer. Perhaps a bit of Teflon tape on the threads as well. EZ | ||
| Robi |
If I'm understanding you correctly, I can get by w/o a new cable? OK. As I'm thinking about it, that makes sense. The washer prevents any fluid from leaving the primary; whether that be around the bolt or through the sleeve. That makes sense. (if that interpretation is correct). Thanks EZ | ||
| Robi |
Now as I'm playing this out in my head, I'm guessing I'll need to refill the transmission fluid. Questions: 1. at spring maint. I put in Mobil 1 15/50. I looked for 20W50 but they didn't have it. While I was there (WalMart), I called the 2 autoparts stores that are programmed into my cell phone, they didn't have it either. They did have 15/50. Therefore, I went with that. Is this recommendation still valid? Should I top off w/ 15/50, or replace with something new? 2. will have have to detach cable from clutch to replace o-ring? I'm guessing so. If that is the case, is it simply a matter of unlatching, put the ring on, and then back on? Or should I expect to be doing a full clutch adjustment? | ||
| Robi |
Also, the Teflon tape. That's a good idea. Do you put that on the drain plug and primary adjusting bolt too? | ||
| Ezblast |
Yes - at the base of the threads. EZ | ||
| Robi |
OK. It looks like I'm going part of the replacement technique I found here. http://www.bcrider.com/blastclutch.html When I unhook this, will I need to do adjustment after I replace the o-ring? | ||
| Ezblast |
Yes, at the clutch, then the adjuster to the handlebar. EZ | ||
| Robi |
K. Thx | ||
| Robi |
Here’s what I’ve learned. In order to get the cable out of the primary cover, you need to disconnect the clutch cable clamp from the lower engine mount. Then remove the clutch cable from the clutch lever; otherwise trying to loosen the bolt from the primary cover does nothing but twist the clutch cable and if the above are not disconnected, then there’s nowhere for it to twist. Another thing I learned is that I needed to remove the screw lock plate and the inner/outer ramp assembly. This seemed to be the only way to get the cable end out of the coupling. The o-ring looks OK, but I have a new one and I’ll replace it. However, it doesn’t seem like the washer had a role in the seeping I was noticing. The clutch cable attaches to the primary cover by a bolt. That bolt has a metal sleeve that extends a short distance away from the primary and up toward the lever. Where the outer rubber of the cable comes into that sleeve is where I am seeing the seeping. The washer sits up against solid metal between the bolt and the cover. The seeping must be coming from some break down within the metal sleeve. Does the outer rubber seal into the metal sleeve of the bolt? Does this mean I need a new clutch cable? The assembly portion of the manual says I should put a new retaining ring in the groove of the outer ramp hub. However, I have not taken the inner/outer ramps apart? Is it recommended that I take them apart? Apply multipurpose grease? And also replace the retaining ring? Thanks. | ||
| Ezblast |
Did you recently lube the cables or have a 10,000 mile service done? Could be oil leaking from spilled oil on an oil adding. Because that would be oil seeping up the cable by almost a foot - the primary would be highly pressurized for that I would suspect. EZ | ||
| Robi |
Haven't researched this, so sorry if repeat, heading out to work. Blast sometimes doesn't want to go into first, like when I stop at a red light. It will eventually, but I have to either keep trying, or roll back and forth and try. I just adjusted the cable, thinking I might have too much play in it. But that didn't seem to work, unless I still have too much play in it. | ||
| Buellistic |
Three things affect finding neutral or going into first gear: 1) primary chain adjusted TOO TIGHT ... 2) improperly adjusted clutch ... 3) foot to shift lever ergonomics ... (Message edited by buellistic on April 30, 2010) | ||
| Krjoseph |
If you want a little extra work, set the length of the drum pins, replace the detent plate and do a shift paw adjustment. Mine was *much* better going into neutral and all around shifting after that. | ||
| Ezblast |
Concur - it does make a big difference for the average Blast. EZ |
