| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
You assume that most bikes are timed badly - most are timed correctly, please keep your referrals to what you know to be true. I respect your views, and opinions, however, I have checked timing on a good number of Blasts and they all fall in the correct range. True one may be a bit retarded or advanced, but they usually aren't. EZ | ||
| Buellistic |
THE "POINT" THAT IS BEING MADE HERE IS THAT IF YOU ARE GOING TUNE YOU BLAST, DO IT "RIGHT" !!! STEP #1: Check your timing !!! | ||
| Evilbetty |
I think I'm going to take the top end of the carb back off this weekend and make sure nothing is in the needle port and there are no burs on the washers I used. If that doesn't work I can balance the float on the bike with a board on the head and starter? I don't see that method above or in the archive, do tell!  | ||
| Ezblast |
8. Perform float level check as follows: a. Place carburetor on a clean flat surface with the intake manifold side down. See A of Figure 4-20. b. Tilt the carburetor 15° to 20° in a counter-clockwise direction until float comes to rest. See B of Figure 4- 20. NOTE The measurements will be incorrect if the carburetor is tilted less than 15 ° or more than 20 °. c. Using a dial vernier caliper or dial caliper depth gauge, measure the distance from the face of the carburetor flange to the outboard edge of the float. Be careful not to push on float while measuring. d. If the measurement is between 0.413 inch and 0.453 inch (10.49 -11.51 mm), then the float level is within specification. Proceed to step 9. e. If the float level is not within specification, remove the float, and referencing the table below, carefully bend the tab slightly to adjust the float level. For example, to increase the float measurement, bend the tab toward the carburetor body. This will have the affect of decreasing the amount of gas in the float bowl after assembly. f. Install float and check float level again. Repeat procedure as necessary until float level is within specification. From above - look a little harder please - lol - yes you can do it with the electrics still on the carb. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Check that the washers seat the needle well as well. EZ | ||
| Evilbetty |
Oh I'm sorry. I've read that procedure easily 20 times but I thought you were referring to something different. So can use to board to do it with everything still attached other than the boot? | ||
| Ezblast |
Yes - all you need is a protractor - steal it from your kid - lol EZ | ||
| Mountainstorm |
Useful page of information about the Keihin CV 40 http://www.gadgetjq.com/keihin_carb.htm Note that the page is specific to the Kawasaki Vulcan but there is a lot of pertinent information and details that relate to the Blast carb. (Message edited by MountainStorm on May 10, 2010) | ||
| Blastfame |
Hello all, long time rider, first time Buell owner and so far it's been a blast, LOL. I've spent every minute that I'm not on the bike researching it and what is possible. I'm getting ready to do the intake and exhaust mods to my stock equipment and was wondering what your suggestions would be for jetting. I live in Montana at 4100' with all my riding being done at that elevation or higher...just couldn't find that combination in all the postings. A quick reply would be greatly appreciated as I'm off the the Harley shop tomorrow...120 miles away. Thanks. | ||
| Ezblast |
45/170 | ||
| Blastfame |
Thank you very much...now off to the toy store  . | ||
| Leonard |
I finally got some time to change the jets and shim the needle, or so I thought! After wrestling with that last screw for hours I removed the carb out completely. Eventually ended up filing it down the middle and then it turned!! But now, the slow jet doesn't want to come out, I'm afraid that I will strip the head and destroy the whole thing. Does anyone have any idea of any other way to take it out? | ||
| Ezblast |
Slowly turn the tight screwdriver. EZ | ||
| Leonard |
..so I did. Most of those screws are so easy to strip!! Anyways it's all done, replaced the jet, shimmed the needle, now have to get everything back on the bike | ||
| Frznfury |
Longtime lurker, first time poster... I've been working on my 2000 Blast for awhile. There isn't a qualified mechanic to work on it in my area, so I've made a quick study of engines in general. I've learned a lot browsing these forums and the old girl (occasionally) runs better than she did before... But I've run into a question about the carb needle. From what I can tell, the needle is supposed to look something like a nail, i.e.: with a flat head on top. Mine is not... It has a number of rings cut into it and a click-locking ring that I suppose stands in for washers... But she doesn't seem to be dropping right. I ran her once today and she ran great, but died when I pulled into my spot. Sure enough, the carb is leaking fuel, not spraying into the intake, but just generally filling up with and leaking fuel out of its various orifices. I've decided it must be my amateur efforts with the carb needle keeping it from plugging properly, but I can't see inside it while it's running and so am not sure how to tackle the problem. The mechanic who I had working (ineffectually) on the bike before installed a jet kit and I'm thinking the needle came out of that. Current settings are 42(Stock?)/170, f/a stock, oiled (K&N?) pro-series filter. Unknown brand of black dual exhaust pipes (Pro-series?) Just replaced boot with an Ebay superboot. (Mechanic missed the huge rip in das Boot, which is why I'm sweating out in the sun working on this thing myself) I know it's the carb... Almost positive it's the needle, but now I'm confused because mine seems to be different... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The needle you are looking at is a Dynojet or other non stock needle. It is however the float needle that appears to be stuck (or not sealing). That will cause the gas overflow problem you are having (the other needle has no effect on it). If you turn the gas off when shutting down the engine should stop the fuel overflow. If it doesnt you have more problems! The float/needle may also be maladjusted from rough handling of the carb (or a misguided attempt at adjustment). You'll need a new float needle or float adjustment. (I do not have the part number available). It does sound like you have a Pro-Series exhaust. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS Welcome to Badweb! | ||
| Ezblast |
Concur! | ||
| Leonard |
As mentioned a few posts above, I changed the jets shimmed the needle backed out 2 1/2 turns on the air screw and finally managed to get everything back on the bike..without having any screws or washers left over when I start the bike now it feels like the idle speed is much higher. Earlier, it would be higher when the choke was on but would settle down but now it doesn't come back to a lower idle speed. I tried adjusting the screw but that doesn't seem to help much. Rode it around a bit and it feels like there is a lag in the response to the throttle. Any comments? | ||
| Ezblast |
Stock exhaust - Check boot - make sure not torn and installed correctly. Idle should go to 2000 rpm and in time - up to 10 minutes - go down to 1000/1200 rpms. Aftermarket - 2 2/3 to 3 turns out, check boot and boot installation. EZ | ||
| Leonard |
Thanks EZ. I have a stock exhaust. Checked the boot, it seems to be good and is fitted properly. I used two #4 brass washers..didn't check it it was 0.05 or not though. Is it possible that the shim is too much and there is too much gas getting in? The gasket between the carb and the airbox was not new and I had a little hard time aligned properly, but bolted everything on tight. Can a misaligned float cause something like this, there is no gas leak or anything, but since I had a hard time getting the old idle jet out I could have messed up the float. Idle is still definitely higher and when I increase the throttle there is no response for a few seconds and then it kicks in and in spurts. Thanks for any comments. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
If you shimmed what is a non stock needle w/grooves and a clip, you have overshimmed the needle. Only use the clip on the needle to adjust it. Remove the washers on the needle. Let us know where on the needle the clip is. PS The exact measurement of the "shims" is not critical. .05 or .075 or .025, etc. will not cause severe running problems, it will only affect optimum tune. | ||
| Leonard |
Erik..It was a stock needle, I don't remember any grooves on it and certainly no clip. Yesterday I turned in on and left on for quite some time to make sure that there was enough time for the rpm to reduce, it did not. Today morning I rode out to work and realized that the the throttle was being highly unpredictable and so had to get the car instead. | ||
| Ezblast |
Really sounds like a bad slide. EZ | ||
| Leonard |
oh, okay. Could the diaphragm cause something like this? Guess I'll open it up. | ||
| Swampy |
When you pinch the diaphragm you will get a back fire as you open the throttle, it will start breaking up. It sounds like you have an air leak, that is why you have a fast idle, probably at the boot. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sorry Leonard, attributed the wrong post to you.  Working on a laptop far from home isnt the best I concur with Swampy. Did it run okay before you did the carb work or were you trying to fix a problem? | ||
| Leonard |
That's cool Erik, I opened the carb up again, in the process learned that life is much easier if you remove the tank rather than try to fiddle with the throttle cables The needle is stock, the slide looks fine, diaphragm is not torn, this time I made absolutely sure that the diaphragm fitted the grooves properly. Examined the boot and unless there is something minute that I am not seeing, it looks fine. Fitted it all back and turned it on before fitting the air box. The first time it started at a lower idle than before I started the whole process and then got faster and stayed faster. shut it off, turned the idle mixture screw and then it started at a fast idle and stayed fast regardless of how much I turned the screw out. The idle mixture screw make only a slight difference in the speed only at the tightest or maybe one turn out. I didn't ride it yesterday, but when it was on, and I turned the throttle it didn't sputter and die. The only part that I have a problem with is the gasket between the airbox and the carb, it is torn in places and need to be replaced, but yesterday's experiment was without the airbox, so that wasn't the problem. and yes, the bike was running pretty good with the 42 jet before I started out | ||
| Leonard |
Can this be attributed in any way to the plug that needs to be disconnected before the carb is removed? I wasn't really happy with the way it 'plugged' back in | ||
| Ezblast |
Argh - 42 is stock, 45 is better - for stock exhaust/intake applications 2 to 2 1/2 turns out of the air screw is the common setting, reset idle after you get bike warmed up, this assumes good boot, intake o ring, and vacuum plug - leave un-plugged - manually keep engine at idle till warmed up (un-plugged your curve defaults to wot - fine for riding but a few mpg's lost) - warming up would consist of 1/2 hour of riding, then set idle. Then plug back in. Then you would know if the plug was jacked, though be aware that for up to the first five minutes you will have high idle till the bike figures its warmed up. Note - considering age of bike both gasket and boot - I would replace both. EZ (Message edited by ezblast on June 09, 2010) |
