| Author | Message | ||
     Halfassed |
OK.... I've got a 2001 Blast, and it is giving me one hell of a headache trying to track down a voltage draw that is EATING my batteries for lunch! It seems to be drawing about 1.3 volts almost constantly and makes my batteries un-chargeable (get error codes from my charger). when it is being ridden it seems that the battery is still not being recharged and eventually (about 2 weeks) dies. So many places to start....any suggestions? I'm not a mechanical moron, but electrical stuff certainly can be puzzling! Any help would be fantastic (so that I don't have to set fire to this lovely machine!) | ||
| Swampy |
Welcome to the board, Halfassed! What battery do you have in your Blast? Is it a stock battery? You cannot run any other battery than a dry cell battery in it. A lead acid battery will not work, and I don't think a gel battery will work either. Have you unplugged electrical components one at a time to try and isolate the draw? That is a basic step. Are there any lights that are glowing slightly? Try unplugging you stator and voltage regulator individually. Good luck, let us know what you find. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur with Swampy! If the battery is very dead but you can get it started (push or jump start), if you attach a volt meter you can see if it charges by revving the motor and watching the voltage. If it reads 11.5 volts dead and stays that way running then its not charging. If the battery is original, get a new one. 4 years is realistic for a battery, (though some get more)after that its downhill. | ||
| Halfassed |
Not sure what the latest battery is. It is a sealed unit, but it is definately scrap now! Is it possible that the battery is so dead that the bike won't run? The bike is sitting in a parking lot a few miles away, because it died and I could not get it started by bumping.....battery is so dead I have no odometer reading! Do you think that an original battery will help part of the problem?....Why only dry cell? So many questions so many questions!! | ||
| Swampy |
The dry cell contains no liquids, the battery is mounted at a very steep angle and if it is a lead acid the acid will leak out. The dry cell batteries are more durable, wether a stock Buell battery or an aftermarket like Optima. The dry cell handles the vibrations better and can be charger abused, such as slam charging and over charging and they do not take a voltage"SET" Also they do not give off acid vapors and hydrogen gas. If you have a stock dry cell battery, take it out and try charging it and try the checks that Gearheaderiko said. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes the battery can be so dead it wont run even when bumped. Part of the problem with that is that with the headlight on it is still draining any available power. My old Honda (he said with shame) was impossible to start with a dead battery until you disconnected the headlight. Generator systems fare better than alternator systems when dealing with dead batteries. PS Since you do seem to be going through batteries quickly, do feel, look & smell for any hot wiring that may indicate a short or broken ground wire. | ||
| Halfassed |
Thanks for all your help guys. I guess its time to get my hands dirty = and dig into this little beast to see why she keeps flippin me the = bird!! It's winter project time! | ||
| Swampy |
Can you charge the battery when it is out of the bike? Will it hold a charge? When you hook the fresh battery up to the bike do you get a spark at the battery terminal? Is there a voltage draw? When you get your bike running does a volt meter show more voltage than when its off? Good luck my friend, sounds like more fun than diagnosing a bad ignition module...LOL! | ||
| Halfassed |
OK.... No the battery will no longer charge when it is out of the bike. Yes to the spark and voltage draw (about 1.3 volts) But as for more voltage when running I'm not sure (it hasn't been running lately!) But I suspect no.  | ||
| Swampy |
This voltage draw is with key off right? What kind of battery are you using? If the battery will not recharge when out of the bike, its either you battery charger or your battery.(I have a friend that had a bad battery charger and couldn't figure out why his battery wouldn't charge!) Once you get the battery problem figured out, you need to find out what is causing the draw. Follow the positive cables to where they attach looking for chaffing, remove each one out of the circuit and check for the draw when you hook up your positive cable. (Do you have any accessories attached, like a clock or accessory lights?) Don't forget to isolate your the voltage regulator and stator . | ||
| 129cbrider |
Hey, My 2000 Blast has an electrical gremlin! Imagine that. It turns over but won't start. I read something about turning the clutch lever diode (#2) around so you can turn it over and start it without holding in the clutch lever. Tried it, no change. Turned the diode back around to the original orientation. Turned the other diode (#1)around, pulled in the clutch lever, hit the key and Old Yeller starter right up and ran perfectly for 4 seconds and died. Hit the key again, turns over but won't start. Turned diode #1 back around to original position, turns over-won't start. Anyone know what Diode #1 controls? That may be where my problem lies... | ||
| 129cbrider |
Hey Half-fast - take the battery out, hook up an ohmeter to the battery leads and pull fuses until the ohmeter reads 0. That circuit is where your short circuit to ground is... | ||
| 129cbrider |
Half-fast - forgot to mention - key in 'off' position. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Diodes? If it turns over, its probably not the clutch switch. Shouldnt turn at all if that safety switch isnt working. Have you checked for Spark? Fuel? Compression? Those are the basics and I can think of quite a few reasons for your bike not starting but without knowing any of the basic 3, where do you start? Most of the safety switches are easily bypassed and I dont recall reversing diodes (?) to be one of them. We just need a little more information to be helpful. How or why do you know its a short? | ||
| Buellistic |
Halfaased: Do you have Factory Service Manual and Parts Book yet ... Every thing you are asking about is in the Factory Service Manual with a how to explanation !!! To check you alternator: Take off the seat ... Start the bike ... With a ELECTRONIC VOM, selector switch on 12 volts DC(direct current), RED lead on the "POSITIVE TERMINAL) and the BLACK lead on the :NEGATIVE TERMINAL" read the voltage ... The VOM should read 13 to 14.5 volts ... IF NOT the stator in the altinator or voltage regulator in bad ... The Factory Servive Manual tell you how to isolate which ... Say you do not have a ELECTRONIC VOM, well they sell them at Wal*Mart !!! If you are to too cheap to replace your battery before you get the very,very last electron out of it, it usually takes the altenator and regulator with that last ELECTRON ... So which is cheaper, replace the battery every three years(OEM of course) or pay the LABOR/PARTS ??? In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Buellistic: are you going to take any time to think and help him with his problem? Nothing about his newest problem relates to checking the charging system. (Message edited by gearheaderiko on December 22, 2006) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
For Buellistics tips on keeping your electrical system in shape go to: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/233225.html?1165989583 | ||
| Buellistic |
Halfassed: Put a new OEM battery in after you charge it for 24 hours ... Then disconnect the VOLTAGE REGULATOR ... Does it have a AMPERAGE drain still ... LET US ALL KNOW ??? You do not discharge VOLTS(althought the BATTERY "VOLTAGE" will go down after enough AMPERAGE drain), BUT AMPERES ... BATTERIES are listed in cranking VOLTS which will drop some on cranking, "BUT" it is AMPS(ie: current) that makes the starter spin(as in how fast) ... In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
His current problem has NOTHING to do with the battery, starter or charging system. | ||
| 129cbrider |
My 'no start' problem turned out to be with the lean angle thing, made a jumper out of insulated solid #14 copper wire bent in a U, ends stripped and plugged into the two colored wires (not the wite/black one) and it fired right up. Blastin'again! | ||
| Buellistic |
129cbrider: Where is this switch located, can find no refferance to it in SERVICE MANUAL ??? In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Swampy |
Lean angle, I think it is the Bank Angle sensor, it is located below the seat behind the battery about in the center of the seat frame area. I believe you can see it underneath the seat tray facia. | ||
| Xgecko |
that's one sensor that I haven't and won't jump unless I have to. It has saved me more than once unfortunately | ||
| Ezblast |
What flasher in automotive will work with a Blast? 3 Blade 20 watt - mine on the red just died - lol - long story... GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Ezblast |
Long story - dash cracked, so I exchanged it out with the spare I had, turned the key - dash lit up and numbers appeared. So today I go to work and the signals don't work, I blew the 15 amp system fuse - replaced - now none of my signals work - did I blow the flasher or just bad bulb? Usually if it is the bulb - the signals just flash faster - now though nothing and no sound from the flasher any more either. A little help please. Thank you. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I dont remember exactly what happened, but I do remember pulling my hair out over a similar problem and it was just the flasher. Your LED lights may complicate the problem. I'm using a Signal Minder flasher unit so I never bothered to find an auto cross reference. You may find flasher specs on the web, but a regular auto flasher may not work with your LEDs. | ||
| Ezblast |
I ordered two from Chicago HD/Buell - 6 bucks apiece and 5 bucks shipping - no one here had it - guess the Black bike will do city work - the red bike's flasher went - found a rubbed wire to the wire - hoping that was the cause - replaced bulb that led to that wire - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Mabueller |
>that's one sensor that I haven't and won't jump unless I have to. It has saved me more than once unfortunately What does it do? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
When the bike is leaned over 55 degrees or more it cuts the ignition. So if you drop your bike it shuts it down. | ||
| Slowhand96 |
This isn't really an electrical gremlin issue, it's more like a mystery black box phenomenon. I didn't know if starting a new thread would be appropriate. I found something strange (a mystery black box) on my 2000 Blast, I did not see this on either of the 2002's I have. It is a black box that is Zip tied under the frame near the shock mount. The connectors were tucked into the frame and the whole thing was barely noticeable. There are two sets of wires coming out of it. Each set of wires is red, black, and white and have connectors on them. I highlighted the numbers on the tag so maybe someone with a parts book can look them up.   Thanks for your help Chuck |
