| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
You want to do a Tony/Ray style intake, then you need Parts 3/4" carb spacer from Kurakyn The link for that is up in the carb information section, and the spacer can be bought from Kurakyn - just google, its misspelled but the correct spelling comes up, you'll probably have to call them their store, their site is very confusing - you want a carb intake spacer for a cv-40 carb. EZ (Message edited by ezblast on October 24, 2009) | ||
| Bandito90 |
Question for you guys running b70's?My motor is fresh with a 10.5:1 piston and b70 cams and V&H exhaust. I just did the timing better with a timing light.It is running better.But dies on deceleration.I currently have 48/180 jetting in to be safe.And the needle shimmed and the air idle screw 2 1/2 turns out.Also have a brand new super boot and have not touched the auto enricher or floats.Just curious as to what baseline jetting anybody with a similar setup is starting with.And I've sprayed carb cleaner around the boot and is does not appear to be leaking.Also the motor pulls pretty strong. | ||
| Ezblast |
What intake are you running, and what exhaust? EZ | ||
| Bandito90 |
I'm running Vance and Hines exhaust.I have the m2 stack but have not decided on a filter yet.I am using the colder plug.Does it possibly need to go richer or is it still an ignition problem? | ||
| Ezblast |
try 45/175 - I run the Denso IXU01-27 and would suggest that if you are going to run it rich - the V&H is a tad restrictive, though that intake should help the breathing,the exhaust will hold it back a tad - I suspect the can design, but it has always done worse in tests than the other exhausts except for the Pro-series and Kerker. With the Denso plug I would stay in the 27 range - that puppy will fire no matter what. 48/180 is what my I run on the daily rider - so its not that rich - around 13 to 12 af. What plug you running? And turn your screw to almost 3 turns out - EZ (Message edited by ezblast on October 29, 2009) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The Blast is very forgiving in the carb tuning department, even with the better cams. A jet size or two wrong shouldnt cause major running problems. Low on power, sluggish maybe. If its causing bucking, backfiring, bogging, etc you are either way off or something else is wrong. The Stock ignition is not the best performer either. Installing a better ignition will be noticeable immediately. I have the 10.5: piston and B50 cams and run it 45/175 w/ 4 shims. A 180 main gives more power peak per the dyno, but it sounds 'fat' and doesnt wind out as fast. Remember: slow jet is idle to lower rpms. Shims/needle height adjust the midrange. Main is wide open throttle. If you change the main, you will change the midrange, but it will be in direct correlation to the main jet change. Dying on deceleration can be caused by the idle rpm set too low. It can be caused by over rich or over lean carb settings. There is another more common cause, but it eludes me at the moment. Anyone? (Message edited by gearheaderiko on October 30, 2009) | ||
| Bandito90 |
I have 2 shims in it now.It's not sluggish or backfiring.Doing the timing with the light seemed to help a bit.I'm running the NGK DPR9-EA9.The top end is fresh.So it's got minimal time on it.I'm going to try the 45/175 jets again.Maybe another shim first.I'll also try turning the Air idle screw out three turns as EZ said.And it does have a kind of fat flat sound to it. | ||
| Ezblast |
Yes, I don't think the V&H can suport a 180 jet - the can is too restrictive. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
If the V & H has lost all its packing, then it may be too restrictive. Otherwise its a straight through muffler without any baffles, not unlike many others. So I dont think its too restrictive for a 180 (although it might still be too rich, but....). | ||
| Ezblast |
I'm figuring it has to be the can being restrictive, because the difference in header lengths between it and the Jardine is about 6", and the Jardine produces more punch. Though I think the header length is important, I think flow is more so, and that is why I think that can style must be what is holding it back. The Bub has the same length header and is a true straight through with just a megaphone on the end, yet it produced the same hp but more torque, and was more responsive, so I suspect the can on the V&H. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I think everything you figure is correct and flow being important. The V & H isnt that restrictive, but it is more muffler than the Bub or D & D. The Jardine may be a different core design or better packed. The WB can is almost identical to the V & H until you install the discs. Though I doubt tests were done with an old V & H and if any of the cans start to deteriorate, then performance suffers. My guess is all the different mufflers were tested by different people at different times. I dont think anyone has done a side by side by side test, with jetting etc. They are all different, so I'd expect different results. Not any one exhaust is superior in all running aspects or fits all tuning or excels in all rpm ranges. | ||
| Sycho |
Hey can anybody tell me what this black connector on the carb is for?  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
That is a vacuum connector for the CA only EPA/charcoal canister system. It should have been be plugged when the bike was "49 stated" (probably plugged at the canister). The Blast will run poorly if left uncapped. Non California bikes should have this already plugged/capped or it may have a solid nipple or none at all. | ||
| Sycho |
Thanks Erik, been running it a long time without it plugged. | ||
| Ezblast |
plug it and it will run better - lol EZ | ||
| Evilbetty |
Getting ready to go find a needle shim(s). Anyone sourced these out yet at Westlake or Home Depot or something with a part number? If not has anyone put a micrometer on them and recorded the needed outside diameter, the diameter of the inside hole? Those measurements along with the .05" thickness should cut down the time hunting time  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Standard #4 washers available at Home depot or a R/C model hobby supply store. | ||
| Damnut |
I used part number 27094-88 Main needle ('88 XLH part) instead of shimming the stock needle. This past Saturday I installed the new Pro-Series pipe, new needle and went with a 48/175 setup with just a K&N. Seems like it's getting too much fuel at low RPM/idle. Might go with a 45 instead of the 48. | ||
| Buellistic |
The TUBE FRAME Cyclone M2 needle has been found to out perform the -88 SPORTSTER needle ... | ||
| Evilbetty |
I had not read this, but I like this idea better. Is the general consensus that it's better or just as good to use an alternative needle instead of shimming? If so which needle (part number?)should I use for a stock intake with a Jardine exhaust? Or is shimming still the preferred way to go? I don't mind spending a few dollars more for the needle. | ||
| Buellistic |
Evilbetty: This "INFO" on the M2 needle is on BWBers some were in the TUBE FRAME postings ... Shimming is still part of the fine tuning ... JET NEEDLE(NOKK) PN 27241-95, which is the OEM needle in the M2 carburetor ... | ||
| Evilbetty |
Ah so I should probably just shim the Blast OEM needle then? | ||
| Ezblast |
Yes! Shimming the stock needle is better. The Blast needle and other carb parts are actually used in current cv40 hop up kits sold on Ebay and other vendors. EZ | ||
| Buellistic |
Evilbetty: The BLAST off the SHOW ROOM FLOOR has a lot of potential to run very well and remain very reliable with just some PRODUCT IMPROVEMENTS ... Tune'ing the carburetor, air box, and exhaust are the only things to do ... Of course you have to have the timing set a little fast and a good spark plug(not OEM a one) ... "i" have already done this, "BUT" went one step further by putting a XB12 MOTOR SPROCKET and PRIMARY CHAIN on to increase the gearing(lowered the top end RPM) ... "i" am 6'3" tall and weight 250 pounds ... My BLAST would run almost 90 MPH with me setting up right(normal riding position), the speedo needle was almost touching the 90 MPH triangle ... Unfortunately it had a defective exhaust valve which caused the engine to eat it's self, "BUT" have the parts now to fix and PRODUCT IMPROVE inside the engine ... Hope to be on the road soon !!! | ||
| Buellistic |
As Ezblast says, the OEM NEEDLE will do the job in the realm of PRODUCT IMPROVING with OEM PARTS ... | ||
| Evilbetty |
Finishing up the Jardine install and getting ready to move onto jetting the carb. I have the new jets, and #4 brass washers, and have read through these threads 10 times but I'm still apprehensive. I'm worried about fouling the diaphragm or messing up the float. Is there a video out there anywhere for something similar so I have some idea of what I'm getting into? | ||
| Ezblast |
http://www.buellforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 3577 That should help a lot. Just take your time seating the diaphragm and try not to bump into the float harshly and you should be fine. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You do not need to do anything with the diaphragm. The needle comes out with needlenose pliers. The only reason you need to touch the diaphragm is if its an old dryed out carb and it shrinks up on you. Normally it wont give you any problem if you leave it alone (so leave it alone and dont turn the carb upside down with the top off). | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS Use a new or good quality screwdriver to remove the slow jet. | ||
| Ezblast |
lol |
