| Author | Message | ||
     Boardgeneration |
I have an 01' Blast that gets really crappy gas mileage. I'm only getting 35MPG around the city and on freeway. I know its not the extra ethanol added to gas over winter because it has been pretty consistant over the last 8 months. I think its running way too rich. I want to adjust the air/fuel mixture but cannot find it. Please help. | ||
| Milt |
See the following. Lots and lots of great info. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/6812.html?1257869909 | ||
| Boardgeneration |
ok. I have the carb off. and i looked at the pics from that link above. It shows an idle adj. screw but not the air/ fuel screw. Do I drill out the brass looking circle above the idle screw? | ||
| Crackhead |
the air/ fuel screw does have a cap over it, but that screw only adjusts the idle and just off idle mixture. It does have a very small effect above idle. | ||
| Boardgeneration |
ok. well im getting hella frustrated. I bought this bike brand new a year and a half ago. First the head gasket leaked. Then it kept dying on the freeway. I found that it was a clogged cali canister on the back of the bike. Now im getting really bad gas mileage (went from 60 to 35MPG.) I removed the gas tank and it seems that there is oil around the top of the engine around the rubber dip stick. Today I also drilled out the idle adj. screw and turned all in and then out 2 1/2 turns, but Im not sure if thats the fuel air mix screw that will help lessen the amount of gas used while im driving. FRUSTERATED!!  | ||
| Ezblast |
Your auto-choke may be defaulting you to the WOT curve - you could try resetting your TPS, or it may need replacing, or it could be really bad gas, especially if your running regular - you are running premium - right? You bought a new 2001 - talk about the teething years - rocker-cover gasket - replace, 49 state bike, a 2000 to 2003 - those are the year Blasts only a collector would want - lol - but then again you could get lucky, a lot of owners did, after replacing their Rocker-cover gaskets - lol - EZ | ||
| Boardgeneration |
ok. I have noticed that im building a lot of pressure at the oil dipstick. It's almost like its not getting rid of any of the pressure at all. When i open up to check the oil it hisses and lets a crap load of air out?! is this normal?? I am wondering if that might be part of my problem and if so, what could possibly fix this?? | ||
| Ezblast |
No - thats fine. EZ | ||
| Boardgeneration |
well. . . . . . is the air/fuel screw under the small brass cover (looks like the cover over the idle mixture but brass) on the carb? | ||
| Ezblast |
It is under the carb to the left facing the front, can only be accessed with a pocket type screw driver. usually there is a solder plug over it.  It would be #9 EZ | ||
| Boardgeneration |
ok. So when I adjusted that screw two and half turns out it adjusted my idle so it was super friggin high. I couldnt even get it into gear from neutral. | ||
| Ezblast |
Change your manifold coupler out - das boot - then adjust idle accordingly, however only when warmed up. On cold start - will idle at 2000 rpm for 30 secs or more - probably more. EZ | ||
| Boardgeneration |
gracias. Will do and get back to ya. | ||
| Boardgeneration |
ok. so I changed the coupler, tightened some loose bolts,added a breather filter where the cali. canister was, and added an intake. Problem is; now at RPM unknown (mid range) the bike sputters and wont go. If I start real slow and slowly accelerate the bike will rev up normally, however if the throttle is turned full or half it sputters and rpms wont raise. In neutral it revs fine with no sputtering. | ||
| Ezblast |
Clutch or Kickstand safeties messing up? EZ | ||
| Boardgeneration |
Clutch seems fine. I recently changed transmission oil and it was working fine. I am not sure what kickstand safeties are?? I did all the maint. before I installed the intake and was running fine but thought the intake would help the engine run even better. After i installed it I immediately started having problems with the above acceleration problems. Frickin weird. | ||
| Boardgeneration |
*note* I changed the boot when the bike started running oddly after i installed the intake. | ||
| Ezblast |
Check and make sure intake boot installed correctly. Flip diode in center of fuse block, and cut and twist together kick stand switch wires to disable safeties. EZ | ||
| Boardgeneration |
I will do this and get back to you. Another rider had told me that it is quite possible that I need to change my jets which also makes sense considering it is happing when the most air is entering the carb. Any word on this suggestion? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
What intake? The Blast is very forgiving when it comes to changes and jetting. You usually have to be waaay off before you see a real problem. Just changing the intake or exhaust, while needing different jetting,usually wont cause the bike to run badly with the same jetting. How did you "49 state" the bike? That could be the whole cause of your problems. (at the canister-plug the big hose, plug the little hose that was connected to "carb" on canister, leave the tank hose open to vent to air.) | ||
| Boardgeneration |
from my understanding the main jet on an o1' is a 165, which is not as forgiving as other years with the 170 main. as far as the cali'ster; i left open the tank hose and re routed it further forward (it is not plugged or pinched)with great breathability, plugged the small carb hose and put a breather on the larger tube that was the input on the canister. Is this info correct? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
That sounds fine for '49 stating'. The 01 may have a 165 or 170. In lieu of getting a bigger main you can shim the needle (for a temporary solution). If you've installed an early style Outerwears filter it will give you problems. If you suspect the intake, remove it and see how it runs (just be sure not to block the exposed carb with your knee!). Did you take the carb apart at all? | ||
| Boardgeneration |
I took the carb apart about a year ago to check the float when I was diagnosing yet another problem, but it has never given me problems since. I changed the fast jet but might be able to get to the slow jet today if i have a chance and see if it works. I'm going to put the stock box back on if it dosn't work and see if it is still doing it (it wasn't before I put the intake on) and then make modification to make it breathe. I got some ideas for that. | ||
| Boardgeneration |
like you said. Jets didn't help. EZ, Do you know the color of the wires for the kick stand safties? Where do i grab them at? what are the signs of the safeties kicking in? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The switch is on the kickstand. I'd cut the wires on the kickstand side of the connector, that way you can always easily install another kickstand switch (why? I dont know!). Just connect the two wires together. When the kickstand switch goes bad one of the signs is the bike shutting off & on at will. Often its just as simple as letting out the clutch and the bike dies. There isnt one set pattern of failure, but the two I mentioned are the most common. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS Just leave the airbox/intake/filter off and see if you have a problem. If you still have a problem, its not the intake/airbox/filter. Have you flipped the clutch diode yet? http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/55319.html | ||
| Boardgeneration |
I can't pull the intake off until it stops raining. Yes it does rain in southern california! I will swap the diode tomorrow and then also do the kickstand trick and give it a shot. and when the gods stop peeing on the city ill take the intake off and give that a shot. | ||
| Boardgeneration |
Tis' the filter!!! I flipped the diode; NOTHING, Spliced wires; NOTHING, unplugged TPS at harness(saw it in another forum); DONT DO THAT/ problem city, Removed filter when it stopped raining; FRICKIN VOALA!!! Runnin like a champ, problem is, no filter on intake. No bueno. I have seen filters that wrap over the carb like a sock kinda, where do I get one? Otherwise, whats a good filter that actually works? (Message edited by boardgeneration on February 10, 2010) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
What filter were you using (sorry, dont see that info)? We dont want to recommend something if you are already using it or there may be a problem with how its installed. Outerwears sells a pre-fliter which some use as a standalone, but you must use the new type. There are others listed on Badweb, but it depends on what you want or are willing to put up with. Both UNI and K & N sell universal filters that would bolt onto the American Sport Bike "V" stack ($15 for stack). $10 for a Uni, $30?+ for a K & N. FWIW: "we've" repeatedly told people to disconnect the TPS as a way of diagnosing some problems. They probably read it here! Had I thought it relevant would have mentioned it. Despite the fact that it disconnects the 'choke', running without the TPS alone shouldnt cause any problems. Not having the 'choke' working will cause problems. *Choke=auto enrichner. | ||
| Ezblast |
Outerwears stack filter sock - the new part number is - "12-2528" - ANYTHING ELSE WILL NOT WORK! EZ |
