| Author | Message | ||
     R38007 |
Me again with some more questions...Good thing is I have almost rebuilt this bike :P anyways here is the prob... I sometimes get a random backfire through the carb,kinda random as I can wrap on the throttle and it happens maybe once then is fine or if I am just toolin down the road at a consistent speed it will also do it..Does shoot a nice flame... What I have done/checked. Das boot is new and in good shape.I am running an ez style carb set up(May go back to stock air box) 45/175 jets and no shims(could this be it?) air/fuel is about 2 1/2 turns. New ign mod and coil. New plug(NGK) Plug also looks pretty good,not running lean as far as I can tell. Also have a pro series pipe but the baffle is well broken inside (D&D on the way) Could it be crappy fuel?? I run 92 but some of the stations seem to have more eth. then others... So what are your thoughts??? If you would like I can get a vid of this tomorrow. thanks guys,One day I will not have anything to post(other then how good the bike runs!) :P | ||
| Swampy |
Well... After all other attempts at repairing the problem have been exhausted.....replace the ignition module. The ignition module on the 2001 models have been know to break a lead on the Hall Effect sensor that is built into the ignition module. When the ignition module goes bad it will cause random backfires, loss of power, then after a year or two of random backfires and power loss, it will eventually fail completely at which point you will definitely know the ignition module was bad and failing. After you replace it(it takes about an hour and $125) you will realise that the Blast would have been an absolute joy to own had you just bucked up the $125 for the ignition module two years earlier and not gone through the torture of the random backfires and loss of performance and spent endless hours chasing around a gremlin that could not be found. | ||
| R38007 |
I replaced that as well when I got the bike (had no spark) so I dont think that's it...well I hope not! | ||
| R38007 |
A though...I only static timed the bike...could I be off just enough to cause this issue? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Probably not. Random backfires usually indicate a bad module or a loose or bad electrical connection. For starters make sure the spark plug tip isnt loose, that the plug wire isnt bad (or grounding out). Could also be a bad kickstand safety switch (electrical). "ez style carb set up" ? What filter? Old style outerwears were too restrictive and anything else 'homemade' may also be too restrictive. Also check the vacuum plug on the carb. | ||
| R38007 |
I will check the plug wire. Spark plug tip is tight. Kick stand switch has been by passed,The two wires are twisted together. For the carb I am using the new outerwears filter on it. I will check the vacuum plug as well. Thanks! | ||
| Ezblast |
Also check header tightness and squareness of mounting, and intake rubber o-ring for seal. Flip clutch safety switch/center diode just to make sure, but it is probably ignition. I replaced one with an 05 unit, and the other with the Crane/Pro-series unit - problems gone, suffered on both bikes - lol EZ | ||
| R38007 |
I will check header...I bet I find no o-ring...as guy before me looks like he just used RVT and did a crappy job... It really could be the ign unit...not even sure the one I bought was new(Said it was new but would not surprise me if it was not from where it was ordered...) Thank you again! | ||
| R38007 |
So yea....no o-ring and header was not all that tight...Lets hope that was it! | ||
| Slowhand96 |
Andrew Check your email for a PM about your old exhaust, I'd be interested in it when you install your new D&D. Chuck | ||
| R38007 |
PM sent back  | ||
| R38007 |
small update! So I put the exhaust back together and made sure everything was nice and tight.still got some back fires but not as bad. Took my cover off so I could watch the LED on the ign,when the bike back fires the light does not seem to flinch. So I pop the spark plug off to check it...one its pretty sootly,sign I am running rich(would also explain my low milage as well) decided to check the gap...way off. I grabbed my OEM plug which has a nice looking burn on it(light brown) re gap and pop her in...bike seems to run much nicer...but still pops Turn the air/fuel screw back about half a turn and just hammer on the throttle...nothing but THUMP! Kick ass! now here is my question...that was the old plug before I re-jetted(42\165) I think. the new plug was burning a very rich mix (45\175) and I was two and a half turns out on the air\fuel. should I maybe back my low needle to a 42? I am going to pick up some plugs and do some runs to see if I am still running rich. I live in eugene OR but I dont know if that plays into why Im running rich. but yea it seems a fouled up plug was the issue,but I will do a test ride tonight. | ||
| Ezblast |
NO - I'm pretty sure you just needed to bring the air screw a 1/4 turn more out as you did. EZ | ||
| R38007 |
Good news,Bike is SCREEEEEEAAAAMMMMING. Not one pop,cough,or flame out. It's nice when a plan comes together haha! Thanks for the help guys! It's great to have a bike that runs so hot now  | ||
| R38007 |
Well I take that back...bike is back to what it has been doing... I think im too rich as the new plug I pulled is very sooty and its only been in there a week. Now its not shiny wet,but sooty which tells me I am running too rich. I am thinking of going to a 44 slow and maybe 170? Bike only seems to do this at about mid throttle,If I give it a bit more throttle or WOT the back fire goes away but yea brand new NGK plug is already fouled up...So far I have done this: New Coil,New wire,new plug. I bought a new ignition module about 5 months ago(bike would not run) Should I just by another one? No air leaks that I can find...I am at a loss. Everything that ties into this has been replaced....My carb is unsuported but no cracks or tears in the boot,Nice and snug. Could it be possible that the carb is "bouncing" enough to allow a tiny bit of extra air in? I am thinking about running my stock air box any ways so that may be something to test. I am going to check everything one more time and then do the following: Drain fuel out and flush and check tank. I did drain the fuel when I got the bike but did not flush out the tank...I doubt that's the issue. Static time the bike and make sure the ignition module is in the right place. reset fuel/air needle to lightly closed and then back out 2 1/2 turns. Any other things I should try?? I might see if I can take it down to my friends mechanic and see if he can figure it out... Thanks! | ||
| Swampy |
If you are getting extra air you would be running lean, and probably backfiring out the carb. What main and primary jet are you using? Do you have your needle shimmed? | ||
| R38007 |
45/175 is my jetting. Fuel/Air is at about 2 1/2 turns out. I DO NOT have the needle shimmed,Would that cause this? About mid throttle is when I can get the backfire from the carb to happen,however sometimes it happens once or twice a whole ride. When I pull the plugs they are sooty black,which would mean I am too rich but everything I am reading says I am too lean if my carb is backfiring... Really at a loss here | ||
| Swampy |
Ignition module? I know you have a new one on there already, check all the wiring that would control the ignition.... | ||
| R38007 |
Will do. I will post back once I do this. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I dont see this covered in your posts: Take the air filter OFF. Run with an open carb and make sure you Do Not Cover the carb intake with your knee. What you describe happens with the old style outwerwears filter (lean symptoms with a sooty rich looking plug) Its cold weather now so even if your jetting was too rich (which is unlikely at 45/175) it shouldnt matter. Besides the Blast isnt overly sensitive to jetting unless you have other problems. Not having the needle shimmed could cause this, but your plug does not indicate it. I've lost faith in NGK plugs. They dont seem to be anywhere as good as they used to be. The only engine mods you have is a non-stock air cleaner and nothing else? Some possible causes are the ignition module, faulty safety switches, loose wire plug wire including loose tip and poor fitting wire, loose timing cup. Dynamic timing would be a good thing to check since you are having problems and you did change the ignition module. Sorry if any of this has been covered already. | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - Concur | ||
| R38007 |
Sweet I will give those a try today. Thanks for the info. Yea the only mods this bike has is a non-stock air cleaner and a pro exhaust that is pretty much dead(I need to order my d&d) I will have to get my hands on a timing light and a tack before I do the timing. I will try the ez things first lol! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You can get a timing light with a tach and advance feature "all in one". I think I paid $40 for mine. What the advance feature does is to retard or advance the timing strobe light so you can see how far off it is. Some will do both advance and retard and some only advance (which means a little more thought process). As far as the Pro Series exhaust, save the good parts. I know someone who has gone through 3 PS exhausts and has used the good leftover parts to piece together a good unit. The D & D uses the same diameter pipe as the Pro Series so it might be worthwhile to just throw another decent muffler on the PS header pipe with an adapter (the adapter is 'molded' into the D & D headpipe as the can is 1 7/8"). | ||
| Ezblast |
Auto shops sell the adapters - you could pick out and try any can you wanted at that point - just keep an idea of allowable length, and fabbing up a bracket from the can to the muffler mounting area - a 3" Suppertrapp with 21 to 23 discs - is a great option, a 3 1/2" megaphone would also be good, there are a lot of other good choices as well. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Timing light example: http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3568-Digital-Inductive -Pick-Up/dp/B000EVYGV4/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie= UTF8&qid=1266728332&sr=1-3 | ||
| R38007 |
Well I popped the stack filter off and went for a ride...not one pop or back fire. I then put it back on and the backfire happens. They must have changed the stack filter again,as I ordered one with the new part number I found on the boards here... But now I have a new problem....I have a crap ton of oil coming out from behind the sprocket,that is getting on my belt and on my rear tire(boy that was fun!) Is there some sort of gasket or o-ring that keeps that oil back??? I can't find anything in the parts book though.... Kinda to the point of scrapping this bike,Its a cool bike but the last owner beat the crap outta it :\ | ||
| Swampy |
Well.... There is a big nut that holds the sprocket on, that would not be hard to remove but there is a special tool that is used to hold the sprocket to remove and retorque the nut. You may be able to fabricate something to wedge onto the sprocket to allow for tightening/retightening. I am pretty sure the seal would be a piece of cake to remove and install. I would advise against putting the transmission in 5th and trying to retighten the nut or using a rattle gun to remove/install the nut. You don't get enough steady torque on the nut as everything winds up, a solid stop is what you need. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Okay, behind the sprocket, just on the outer edge at about 2 o'clock is the neutral switch. It comes loose. Pull the wire off and see if its loose. Its tough (well almost impossible) to get a wrench on and tough to get the wire back on. You may have to clean the entire area to see if thats where its leaking also, but its probably loose enough to tell. Without removing the sprocket its (as mentioned) almost impossible to get a wrench on and impossible to remove the switch (I think). You can tighten it up with a screwdriver and then silicone/rtv it tight & sealed. Not perfect, but until you get the tools and time to do it right, it'll hold.* *results not guaranteed, but very probable! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS with the proper maintenance and care the Blast will take a hellova beating. Considering what "I've" put mine through, I cant imagine what source of malicious ignorant abuse people can put the Blast through to render it unsalvageable. I'm not alone in this belief and know quite a few with 'high' mileage Blasts that have been flogged mercilessly, asking for more. | ||
| R38007 |
So that's what that switch is...haha it was loose when I got the bike so I did my best to tighten it up. I am not sure that's where its leaking but it could be. Really don't know if I am going to fix it though..got that leak and the cylinder gasket is bad...I am just tired of wrenching on it almost every other day...bout to the point of getting a new bike that has a 2 year warranty and taking it to a shop that I know that has a great mechanic. But if I do decide to fix it...what are all the parts I may need (cant find crap out in any parts book I have) and what should I do about my stack filter as it seems the new ones are no good. Go back to a stock air box and mod it a bit? | ||
| Ezblast |
Outer Wears Stack filter outerwears.com - the new part number is - " 12-1267-01 Black" - that is the correct stack number - it works fine on both bikes, therefor you have the wrong stack filter. EZ | ||
| R38007 |
Thats the one I ordered....looking at the paper right now... Maybe they made a mistake?? | ||
| Ezblast |
Most definitely - or a lot of other folks besides me would be screwed - I just called them and they said contact them and they would take care of you - because some how you got a wrong filter if that is happening - maybe a 10-1267-01 got sent accidentally - who knows - but I know that that isn't right or I wouldn't be riding my current Blast - which is close to your set up. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Are you using the American Sport Bike stack or something else? |
