| Author | Message | ||
     Blasters_on_stun |
Hey guys. Sorry to bring this up again, but just lookin for some verification before I start jamming on it. Which way does the bolt spin out of the head? JD had said counter but to double check. I'm gonna be PB Blastering it all night, gonna try spinnin it out tomorrow and wanna make sure which way I'm turnin it. Thanks again for all the help. | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y8MSI3KHFC0 Anybody seen this!? A diesel BLAST! Sorry Stun, I can't remember which way they spin. | ||
| Ezblast |
Thats cool! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Studs and 99.9% of all other Blast bolts/nut are standard direction thread-righty tighty, lefty loosey! (they unscrew counterclockwise). PS Do Not consider using an "Easy-Out" to remove the stud! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Slyone: You should be fine with the stock jetting. Changing out the stock #42 slow jet for a #44 or #45 would benefit running regardless of exhaust. | ||
| Slyone |
Thank you EZ. Thank you Gear. | ||
| Kustomklassix |
Garlic - That thing is SWEET!! Not quite enough power for our usual hooliganisms, but for a bike that gets 100mpg and is AUTOMATIC, I would definitely ride one! | ||
| Kustomklassix |
I guess he got the thing running, pretty cool  - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wiLczXKhy8&feature =related | ||
| Ezblast |
Yuppers, not the prettiest version, but definitely functional! EZ | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
The thing that's cool about the XB/BLAST is it's FI... That's about it though if you ask me. That tail section is heinous! That reminds me, how's yours coming along EZ? Now THAT, is a cool XB/BLAST. I just your profile btw, that CR looks dope in black. (Message edited by garlic_sauce on October 02, 2009) | ||
| Ezblast |
The project is moving along! Yeah- the CR rocks in Black! | ||
| Fahren |
Damn that's a great profile pic! I liked the Lobstah, but black was definitely the way to go. | ||
| Reuel |
You can tell they're related! | ||
| Ezblast |
Remember the movie twins - this is definitely the motorcycle version!  EZ | ||
| Thumpe |
Hey EZ here's a close match off the bay for mirrors for the twins.  | ||
| Ezblast |
Hey - they copied me, they're the ones who should change their mirror/signal relationship, my design has been around longer - lol - I say build the signals into the fairing edge, and do some slick barends, However, since the stock ones are so nice, and actually work for me, no more adjustment needed, I'll just leave them alone. - lol EZ | ||
| Thumpe |
No for the Blast to match the CR - lol | ||
| Sierramister |
I have a question... My Blast has been running great for short trips. But when I run it for more than 20 minutes at a time, I'm getting a significant clanking/knocking sound at all RPM's after about 20 minutes of normal riding. It doesn't knock until she's had time to heat up (20+ minutes at least). Increased airflow doesn't make the noise go away. The oil is clear(not dirty) and full (within the indicator after running for at least 10 minutes on level ground). I put 87 in the tank the first time I ran it, but have using 91 or 93 octane since then. An oil change is in order this week, but what else can I do to fix the clanking/possible overheating? | ||
| Ezblast |
Go in a few flats on the primary - could be too loose. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Welcome Sierramister! Concur on the primary. Adjust to the manual and add 4 flats or use the sound/ear method. It could be caused by old/too thin oil. Be sure to use 20w-50 oil, nothing thinner unless you're running at cold temps (consistently below 40 degrees). A trans fluid change should be done along with the oil change and there is a simple way to do that without removing the Y-frames. Last on the list would be the intake boot (aka: "Das Boot") not knowing what the clanking noise really sounds like. Those 3 in that order. There could be other causes, but these would be the usual top 3. If you have questions about doing any of the procedures we'll be glad to point you to the correct 'thread' and offer additional assistance as needed. | ||
| Chigirl |
My drive belt broke today and now I need to replace it. I have the repair manual that recommends replacing the sprocket when replacing the belt. Some here have said that they did not replace the sprocket. My bike has 12478 miles on it, is it really necessary to replace the sprocket? If I replace the sprocket, what parts will I need. Can you give part numbers. All I can seem to find is the sprocket kit which I'm not sure what it contains. Can you recommend a dealer who has good deals on replacement parts. Thank you, I'm sure I'll have more questions about this once I get all the parts I need. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I'd replace just the belt unless you have extra time and money! The belt takes 10 minutes to replace (or less) and all you need is a torx 27 bit/screwdriver. Belt is part # G0500.01A7and is $85. The sprocket kit I assume comes with bolts and washers since the manual says to replace both. The price would not include the belt. The sprocket kit is $87 pt # G0420.01A7 If the sprocket is damaged or is extremely pitted or rusty, then I'd replace it. I can only think of two reasons they say to replace it. One is that the original (recalled) sprocket had catastrophic failure and came apart, so the assumption would be due to flexing it would be weakened or misshapen by 15,000 miles. I dont think the new sprocket suffers this unless subjected to great abuse. The second would be that the coating has worn off the sprocket. Sponsors: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/171 43/17143.html Some will give a Badweb discount. Dont forget to ask! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
And since I cant give a simple answer on anything.... Drag Specialties sells a Blast replacement belt that is supposed to be stronger: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/500161.html?1254417950 Though it lists it as a 1" belt (it's 3/4" or 20mm), it may just be listed wrong and its also $199. You could buy 2 or 3 new Blast belts for that price. On long trips or at the track I carry a spare (almost fits under the seat or in a tank bag). I'd watch ebay for a cheap used belt if breakage now concerns you. | ||
| Rainman |
Yow, I didn't know a belt was nigh onto $100! Does replacing the belt require removing the rear wheel? (Yes, I'm an idiot.) | ||
| Milt |
Erik, "The second would be that the coating has worn off the sprocket." My sprocket is kind of shiny under the belt. Is this the worn off coating of which you speak? What happens if the coating is worn? | ||
| Mxa254 |
Hey all, anyone know where's the best place to pick up hand deflectors? I took the blast out in the middle of the night recently and even with gloves my hands were FREEZING. Thanks! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Belt change requires the removal of 5 torx screws. The three that hold on the front pulley cover and the two that that hold on the right side of the belt guard. Then push the old belt off and push the new belt on, which will require some wheel rotation (roll the bike or lift the rear wheel. Very, very ,very, easy! The sprocket (If I remember correctly) has a Teflon coating. Whether thats the black coating or something underneath, I dont know. The front sprocket is metal, so I dont really think it makes a difference about the coating and I cant find anywhere where it says it makes a difference. The manual only talks about surface imperfections (gouging, pitting) nothing about the coating. I think the major cause for concern is fatigue. I dont ever intend to buy a sprocket unless its damaged. | ||
| Rainman |
Thanks: Time to get a belt and some torx screwdrivers to carry with my boot. | ||
| Awf_hand |
MXA254 The handguards from the XB's will fit the Blast. I believe there's a listing of the parts needed in the FAQ's section. If not, I'll try to find the list I used, as I have the XB set on mine. Another option would be some motocross or enduro style deflectors, but many of those don't block much wind, as they are designed to protect levers from damage. ______________________ Firing order: 1 | ||
| Mxa254 |
Awesome, thanks Dean. I planned on picking up a set of deflectors at my local bike shop after work, but they're designed for dirt bikes...and, like you said, may not be the best option. But if you could find a part # for the XB guards that'd be much appreciated. Any idea on the price range on those? Thanks again |
