| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
Or at least the Drum kit - that would get you shifting like a jap bike - lol - and Baker makes a 7 speed! EZ | ||
| Fast1075 |
If you have to split the cases...of course, replace anything that is broken or worn out...I'm betting that the sporty shifter is evidence that the trans took a heavy blow at some point....it sounds like the gear engagement dogs are rounded off...most likely due to a bent shift fork from the event that killed the original shifter... Anyways...while you have it apart..if some of the gear dogs are a LITTLE rounded, you can send the trans off to a shop where the dogs can be "back-cut" (this puts a "dovetail" shape on them...this makes them "pull together" under load...WILL eliminate missed shifts...I have been told that the Baker drum is far better quality than the stocker, being made of harder material it is not prone to the "grooving" wear the stocker is known for...one last good mod that is maybe a little "out there" would be to have the shift forks cryogenically heat treated to resist wear. | ||
| Ezblast |
Merci | ||
| Deflaytedwayz2 |
Well i talked to a tech at harley today. they suspect that the shift fork may be bent or damaged. he also said that book time was about 15 hours start to finish. but he said realisticly 18 hours. Next weekend ill be tearing the bike apart. ill try to keep track of time and see if i can beat their labor estimate. Sice i work for a Toyota dealer, im used to trying to stay ahead of the flat rate time. so we will see how i do. Fast1075: The service advisor said that the gears should be hardened and he was not sure on how the outcome of dovetailing the dogs would be. but he did ensure me that the parts are cheap if i decided to just replace them. | ||
| Ezblast |
I would go with fasts recommendations. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Since you've already mentioned it Big Bore! You're probably not going to want to take it apart again for the 600cc kit and its not much more money (except for the case boring). Certainly do whatever you can to improve the trans too. Its well worth it. Andrews and Baker both sell gears.  | ||
| Fast1075 |
Ryan, your profile shows that you are a west coaster...there are several shops that I know of in Florida that can address any trans mods you might want...BadWeb sponsor CycleRama can see to your any need (Just one of many highly capable BadWeb sponsors  ) The strenght of the Blast trans is not an issue...it is plenty strong for the meager power output of even a hopped up Blast engine. The issues have to do with quality of finish and production tolerance. Gear finish (hardness) is a balancing act. It needs to be hard enough to wear well, yet ductile enough to withstand shock load..the harder the metal, the more brittle it becomes..balancing act.... In dragracing, with some engines, the gears are actually made (or modified) to be softer to prevent breakage from shock load. Regarding the back-cutting of the gears (dovetailing)..this is now a standard process on all high output bike engines...and is part of the reason for the import bikes to have glassy smooth shifting (along with attention to reducing friction in the parts associated with the shifting process). The dynamics of the transmission are essentially the same as most other motorcycle transmissions..the shift mechanism rotates the shift drum, which move the forks, which slide the appropriate gears at the correct time for engagement of the gears...it seems that you have a severely damaged shift fork...the fork has been bent sideways...the bent fork does not fully engage the gear dogs...they slip, causing the dogs to wear...the more they wear, the more they slip...cascade failure... I would bet the the shift drum is now damaged also from the hammering the fork and shift pin has put on the drum...there is a specification on allowable wear for the grooves...pay particular attention to the grooves where the shift pins are during gear engagement... | ||
| Ezblast |
Shoot - one of our sponsors - JT Engineering can hook you up for all your XB/Blast needs and both Terry and Jim live in our hood, if you want - I can come over and help out as well - I live in Antioch - howdy neighbor - lol EZ | ||
| Rlm |
L.B.B.* developed a shifting problem - i.e. it wouldn't- at least not well. After I got the bike apart I discovered that the little clip that holds the detent plate on the shift pins had failed. Its about a $0.35 part and in fact the dealer actually gave it to me no charge. This looks like a failure prone part though and I was wondering if any one had come with with a more robust alternative. Also the manual informs me that i am to use "special tool HD-39151 shift drum retaining ring installer". I suspect that most people don't have this tool and have developed their own techniques. Care to share?? *little blue buell AKA little blue blast AKA little blue bike | ||
| Ezblast |
OK guys - my turn - lol - I got a mile from home, in neutral at a light, I shift to go, and nothing, no neutral light, no gears, nada - any guesses? I pushed this puppy home, got on the other bike and rode to work - clutch cable didn't feel broken, however, it could be busted at the ramp. Detent Clip? Sigh - anyone got a better alternative than that slim clip? EZ | ||
| Johnnymac |
"OK guys - my turn - lol - I got a mile from home, in neutral at a light, I shift to go, and nothing, no neutral light, no gears, nada - any guesses? I pushed this puppy home, got on the other bike and rode to work - clutch cable didn't feel broken, however, it could be busted at the ramp. Detent Clip? Sigh - anyone got a better alternative than that slim clip? EZ" Das Boot! ROFL!  | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
LOL! Sorry EZ but that was too funny. | ||
| Ezblast |
I don't think the boot will fit where the clip goes - try again? - lol EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
I'm going to tear into it this weekend, I don't thing it is the cable because there is still tension. EZ | ||
| Swampy |
Sorry to hear that EZ, Crank spline? Will the starter turn the motor over? | ||
| Ezblast |
The motor runs, but no gears, belts there - lol - acts like there is nothing to shift into - up or down. I strongly suspect the E-clip/Detent Clip, which means new plate,etc. - If a bolt spun would the motor run? The primary did just get the primary needs adjusting sound as well, still, probably time for a new shoe as well - I hope its no spun bolts, but no neutral light at all suggests that drum nut - sigh - we'll see - What do you think Swampy? I probably won't dive in till fri, gather up some gaskets and stuff first. Ahh well - the test on the Gold-Valve emulators will have to wait - sigh EZ | ||
| Rlm |
EZ Blast: The detent plate and clip for mine came to less than 5.00 CAD. I was feeling pretty good until they informed me: "It'll be in in a few days". So I waited and waited and waited...through some of the nicest biking weather this summer It's here now, and I am now waiting for it to stop raining long enough to put things back together. | ||
| Ezblast |
should have went through Chicago HD - lol EZ | ||
| Rlm |
Actually I am looking for a good mail order site. The problem I run into is that a lot of these places do not ship outside the U.S. There can also be long delays with things going through customs. I will check them out though, thanks for the tip.  | ||
| Rlm |
re shift pins: The correct length that these stick out from the end of the shift drum is given as .335" (from other posting on this site). How critical is this length? The reason I am asking is that I measured mine and the lengths vary; some are longer and some stick out a lot less, around .223". These are set into holes drilled into the end of the shift drum,(yes/no??). Can I just equalize them by tapping them in until they bottom out? | ||
| Ezblast |
I would try to leach some super red locktite on the base of the pin, then tap it in to the required length- the .335 was the max. spec. There was a range. EZ | ||
| Rlm |
Thanks again, the fact that .335 is one end of a range is just what I needed to know. The pins are tight in the drum. I can tap them in without a problem, but pulling them out is a different story. So my process will be to loctite as suggested then tap pins in until they match the shortest one, probably around .329" or so. We are good to go..now if it would just stop raining... | ||
| Gcha |
I have been reading this forum for a while and decided to join in. I just purchased a 2009 Blast in July, one week before the "cubing" incident. I was somewhat disappointed but decided to move on wit my choice. With almost 2200 miles on the P3, I am nearing the time for the 2500 mi. checkup. When I took the Blast in for its' 1000 mile service, the dealer told me that they would only set up the Primary Chain to Buell spec. In reading the forum, I have come to understand that the factory spec. is a little tight. They said that to maintain my warranty they would only set it to spec. So... since the only major service that is performed at this next service is to check/adjust the primary.. should I just let it wear in a bit more, and naturally loosen up by itself, rather than have the dealer just tighten it back up again??? Thanks | ||
| Kustomklassix |
Welcome to the board Gary!  Hm, not sure about your upcoming service, but someone will chime in shortly LoL. | ||
| Rainman |
It's pretty easy to do it yourself. I did, and that says a lot. Still, I don't feel confident in my mechanical abilities. I'm not sure what ills the factory specs will cause, but I'm sure someone will chime in. BTW, congrats. I love my Blast after 10,000 miles and NO problems. | ||
| Ezblast |
Too tight - go at least 11 flats further out. EZ | ||
| Swampy |
Welcome to the Thumper Forum Gcha! Go into the Thumper Knowledge vault and check out the threads on primary chain adjustment. It is easy to do, just set it by ear method it takes the guess work out of it! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
11 flats out? Everytime you post about this it gets more flats out? Whats up? Welcome to the board Gcha! Dont waste your time or $$ at the dealer unless its for a warranty repair. Add about a turn out (counterclockwise) to the adjuster bolt and you'll be okay. Wearing it in isnt a good idea. You'll lose power and it might break under warranty or 2 weeks after the warranty ends. The 2500 mile service is easy and we have shortcuts to avoid the Y-frame hassle. There isnt anything that says you (or another shop) cant do the service. Keep records. If you're not at all mechanically inclined you should have the services done at the dealer. We can then fill you in on what to check and doing the above primary adjustment (simple). A good bet would be that they didnt even do the primary adjustment. I've known people who were religious about taking their bike in to the dealer and the factory spacer was still there (it gets removed at the 1000 mile service). Lastly, if you are gentle on the bike, the primary rarely needs adjustment. Many here are very, very hard on their Blast and I'm betting that when they adjust their primary, it doesnt need adjustment! | ||
| Ezblast |
Actually trial and error - one guy went out 16 flats, herd sound, went back in 5 flats and was good. As always it depends on the bike and its primary chain. The book is so wrong though on this point, that any looser setting will be better than their too tight setting. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
"As always it depends on the bike and its primary chain" This I can concur with. I go 8 flats out (+4 from the manual) and its darn close as tested by the ear method. With a badly, uneven stretched chain I can see where you'd go more. But regardless the manual is too darned tight! | ||
| Gcha |
Thanks for the info. I checked back over the pertinent threads and assuming the dealer set it to spec. (4 1/2 flats out), I loosened the lock nut (Very tight from dealer), and backed out the adjusting bolt an additional 4 flats. I hope that this will be OK until I purchase a torque wrench or can take it to a shop who has one. (I live in a rural area 100mi from Buell dealer, and am not to confident riding at highway speeds yet). When using the torque wrench method, should he engine be cold or hot? Thanks again. |
