| Author | Message | ||
     Blade567890 |
I have a 2006 Blast. I bought it used as my first bike and as such, I have alot to learn about fixing problems. I bought the bike and brought it home, changed the oil first night and then rode it for almost 1000 miles before any problems took place. As I was riding it home from work, I started it up, drove about 2 miles and then it started to lose power. I would nurse the throttle and it would bring the RPMs up, but then they would drop again and fall even further until it eventually died. I then tried to restart it, and it wouldn't restart. I waited 20 minutes, and it started again, but It only ran for about 3 minutes. I did some research to find out what could cause this, and I saw that it could be the manifold coupler (das boot) so I replaced that, and it still does the same thing. As I read other ideas, I see it could be the ECM, but I am hoping to fix it with something a bit cheaper. Thanks for all your help guys, Geoff | ||
| Swampy |
When it won't start, check the LED on the ignition module while you are cranking the bike. No LED, probably it is a bad ignition module. Fuel Spark Compression=GO | ||
| Blade567890 |
Where is the LED light on the Ignition Module Located? sorry for being a newbie, but well, this is my first bike. | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
The LED light is on the module itself, it's the only one. You need to take the ignition cover off first if you haven't already, the ignition cover is the round plastic piece below the head on the right side of your bike. It's OK to be a newbie, everyone was at one time. | ||
| Blade567890 |
Alright, I checked the LED on the side of the ignition module, and it's fine, so I'm at a loss right now, however, after trying to start it today, I have found that it will not start at all anymore, so that is a new symptom. Thanks for all your help guys | ||
| Fast1075 |
Fuel turned on??? | ||
| Blade567890 |
Yup, fuel is turned on, but in the process of replacing the spark plug (it prob. needed it anyways) I noticed that I wasn't getting ANY spark from the new plug OR the old one | ||
| Blade567890 |
I just got back from the Dealarship, and after getting the spark plug wire and the coil checked out, it isn't either of those. After taking everything apart, and then putting it back together, the bike will start, but again, only for a few minutes. I have figured out it isn't part of the ignition system, it seems to be a fuel mixture thing, as the bike starts to run reasonably wet sounding before it dies. | ||
| Johnnymac |
I found my blast acting similarly a couple times. Both times it was the clutch safety diode that had worked loose in the little fuse panel under the seat. Clean it up and reinsert it making sure it's in all the way. If it's not the solution to your problem little time and effort is wasted. I'd give it a shot. | ||
| Blade567890 |
Alright, Just tried fixing the Clutch Safety Diode and that wasn't it, thanks for the suggestion though Johnnymac, I'm always open to trying new ideas | ||
| Ezblast |
Das Boot! | ||
| Monzaracer |
wouldnt be first boot or last, my bike did similar thing but would idle but not rev, thought it might be low on fuel, even though had just turned on reserve. let it idle after fill up , set on main tank, my thought on mine was water because after letting it idle for about 10 minutes or so it has ran fine since, and put nearly 200 miles as followed buddy to phone store long ways away (my phone was through his plan as I didnt have phone last year and he put one on his plan, and we got shiny new LG EnvY2s), and bike never failed me. Very weird but bask in spring when it was very rainy my tarp blew away and I am suspecting water in tank getting into carb. But may be even small piece of dirt. Good luck. | ||
| Blade567890 |
Well EZ, I don't think it's "das boot" as I have already replaced it but thanks for the suggestion, as for the gas, that is a VERY good suggestion, I'll have to give that a try tomorrow..... Thanks for the help Monz, | ||
| Ezblast |
If its dyeing with a backfire, I'd suspect ignition, otherwise it is something else, yes bad fuel, partially fouling the plug and shutting you down, a faulty jet, a smog canister, intake leak, exhaust leak, safety switches, you did the kick stand - right? Check that the boot is seated right. Have you shimed the needle? - Torn slide? EZ | ||
| Blade567890 |
Well, it's not bad fuel, I just checked that, it isn't dying with a backfire, so I don't think its ignition. I'm just about to check the jets and the carb, but what exactly do you mean by "you did the kickstand" ? and "shimed the needle" ? | ||
| Ezblast |
Kick stand switch - disable, clutch safety switch - flip center diode. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
First-it doesnt have a smog canister, correct? That means its not or never was a California Blast? (small black cylinder just under rear of seat frame). If you have this little demon there isnt any point in continuing until its disconnected. Normal culprits: Kickstand safety switch. Clogged slow jet. followed by: Bad spark plug (done) Clogged/pinched fuel tank vent line (or possibly bad rollover valve-there was a recall) and sometimes: bad Bank Angle Sensor (BAS). Kickstand safety switch bypass: Connect the 2 wires together (completing the circuit). Switch is located on kickstand and the plug is just a little further up the wiring. This combined with the clutch diode flip will usually bypass most of the safety switches including the neutral switch. (does not bypass the BAS). Carburetor: Please Do not take the carburetor apart. By "shimming the needle" he is actually asking if you have taken the carb apart. If so, you probably fouled it up. 99.99% of the time the only internal thing that goes wrong with the carb is the slow jet gets clogged. Order/buy a # 45 slow jet and if you pull your slow jet out to check it, replace it with the #45. This only involves pulling the float bowl off (carefully) and removing the slow jet. Pinched/clogged fuel tank vent line/bad rollover valve: Pull the gas cap off and leave it loose (making sure tank is vented). If this solves your problem, then you know it is one of the three. If the BAS is bad, the LED on the module wont light up. On normal operation, once the BAS is tripped, you must switch the ignition off to reset it. It can cut in and out. Also if the module (or BAS) is bad the LED will be erratic such as 'sparking' every third crank revolution. My 2 cents, hope it helps. PS Pleeease do not take the carb apart 'for a good cleaning'. This rarely does any good and almost always leads to problems. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You did mention it sounds as if its "running wet". Do you mean its fouling and then dying/choking to death? If so, can you ride it with it dying (that means keeping the throttle way above idle and bypassing the idle circuit)? If this is the case then the auto enrichener (choke) is probably bad or disconnected. That could also be a clogged or sticking float/needle. | ||
| Blade567890 |
Well, I was just making sure the car was in good shape, so I pulled it off the bike and took the bottom cap off to check the jets. They are both 100% clean, no problems with them. I have an ignition coil coming in on monday or tuesday, and that is what the bike mechanic thinks it is, so after that come in and I install it, I'll be back to tell how it went. No, I can't ride it with it dying, when I nurse the throttle as it's dying it floods it and it dies faster. PS. The carb is very similar to every other carb I have worked on, it's really not that hard to disassemble/reassemble a carb and not foul it..... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Many times what I write is not only for the recent poster, but also those that will read it in the future. Its never meant to be insulting. The Blast is sold as a 'starter/beginners' bike, so many of the people that wind up here, this may be their first attempt at motorcycle repair. No, the carb is not that complicated. Very often though well meaning people tell the person with the problem to "give the carb a good cleaning" as if that will help. It rarely does and if you've never taken a carb apart or have very little experience at it, it is very easy to foul it up (happens regularly, read through past threads and you'll find out!). It then leaves us here who are trying to help, trying to figure out what the original problem was and what they also fouled up trying to fix that problem. This scenario happens a lot with the 'replace or fix everything' approach to repair. Diagnostic logic says it may be the coil. Blast experience says it more likely to be the ignition module.  | ||
| Ezblast |
Concur! | ||
| Reuel |
Yeah, been there, done that. Spent money to fix a carburetor on my old Horizon once because of what I read, and wasted said money. Turns out the problem was the vacuum sensor on the cpark control computer. | ||
| Blade567890 |
Well, I have a coil that's supposed to be in this week, so I'll be replacing that first, and I'm hoping that is what has gone bad. | ||
| Ezblast |
How much they going for in Ohio? | ||
| Ezblast |
The ignition is easy to replace - just scribe the edges of the old one and fit the new one to the scribe and adjust from there as per the manual - static and dynamic. EZ | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
Has there ever been a case of a bad coil? Im not trying to be a jerk but it is more likely your module than your coil. Since the module is a known problem and I never read anything about a bad coil on a BLAST, and believe me, I have read nearly everything on this site. | ||
| Ezblast |
They happen, to me once, but then everything has happened once on my bike - lol - I would have suspected the regulator before the coil though. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
EZ's would be the only one I've heard of. | ||
| Blade567890 |
Well, let me dispense any question, it was the coil on my bike. It was 20$ and took me 10 minutes to install. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
 $20 or $150, sounds like you made the right choice! |
