| Author | Message | |||
     Blade567890 |
I showed my blast to a family friend who happens to be a retired mechanic. He said the my blast's engine was knocking and that it sounded like a timing problem. I was wondering how you adjust the timing on the blast engine. | |||
| Garlic_sauce |
There is a doc. near the top of the page in this link: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/59815.html?1247364839 I used the alternate method, the standard method didn't work for me. It's a super easy process. | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
You are using premium gas, right? The above link also tells you which direction to turn the module to retard the timing. You can also use a colder spark plug to help. Re jetting and adjusting the carb to a less lean condition than the factory sets it at will also help. (Message edited by gearheaderiko on July 21, 2009) | |||
| Blade567890 |
I've never read anything about having to use premium gas, in fact, I've read numerous places that regular is perfectly fine. Am I to assume that premium gas is required for the bike? | |||
| Garlic_sauce |
91 octane and above, I use premium (93). It's printed on the right side of your swing arm, If your decal hasn't been removed. | |||
| Fast1075 |
Look at it this way...for the difference in price for a 2 gallon fill-up...its cheap insurance...also if you lug the engine in hot weather it will detonate too. And if someone not familiar with a Blast engine rides it...it is easy to confuse normal mechanical noise with something else...for example if the primary is a bit loose, it will have a minor rattle on light throttle that disappears on coast or decelleration... | |||
| Blade567890 |
Well, would using regular gas cause this type of problem? or could it still be caused by off timing. And it's not a minor rattle, it's a VERY major vibration/knock so I don't think it's a loose primary | |||
| Fast1075 |
Check the front isolator....if it is bad, you will get MAJOR vibes...IF the iso is bad let us know, and we will tell you how to fix it. | |||
| Blade567890 |
just checked the front isolator, and it seems to be fine. I still think this is something with the timing, my problem, is that I'm having problems understanding the instructions, can someone help me with an idiot's guide to timing? Thanks Geoff | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
First: Use premium gas. If its summer (and it is) and you're running your bike on 87 (or even E85), its going to knock, at the very least on initial acceleration. Your engine has only a 1000 miles? It isnt even broken in and if you're one of the lucky ones that got a tight engine, its going to make the problem worse. Use premium gas and dont lug the engine. See how that works. Then check the timing and perhaps install a colder spark plug if it isnt running much better. If you just want to run 87 (or less) octane gas, then thats a different story. For a bike that will get 70mpg, I'd say thats "penny wise and pound foolish". If you changed the oil (or had it changed), be sure you are using 20w-50. Anything thinner and you're begging for trouble and it will also add to your problem. FWIW: A lot of people assume the Blast is like any other Buell or Harley and will run it that way-low rpm riding and relying on the torque to pull it around. That will add to the vibrations and knocking. Its past the initial break-in mileage, so get used to getting the rpms up. It has a rev limiter, so you cant over rev it. If this has been the case, you'll find it runs much better "winding it out". | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
Owners manual says 87 octane, swingarm says 91 octane. However, in the manual it states: "if weather or other conditions cause the engine to knock, replace the 87 octane fuel with a higher octane fuel." | |||
| Blade567890 |
I just didn't know if I was supposed to use premium or not, so that's an interesting thing I'll have to change. and the engine has 10,500 miles on it, I've put 1000 miles on it since I bought it. | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes, one of the frustrations of misleading information in both the owners manual & repair manual. Such as checking your oil with the engine running (the engine is not running). But most everybody has tried this! There may be other issues at hand (such as a too tight primary chain or incorrect timing), but we need to get you on premium first! Are there any modifications done to the bike (anything that isnt stock? | |||
| Blade567890 |
Nope,no modifications to the bike, it is 100% stock. | |||
| Blade567890 |
Alright, I switched the gasoline and the knock is still there, so I am really quite sure it's the timing, can someone tell me what special parts (there is a special tool I guess you need to adjust the timing?) I need for this process, and where/for how much I can get them. Also, a simplified walkthrough would be great, because the one in the book makes no sense to me for some reason. Thanks Geoff | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
For the static timing method you just need the allen key (3/8") to remove the timing plug. Set the engine at TDC on the compression stroke-the "line" mark on the flywheel will be in the center of the timing hole (this only happens in two ways, so you have a 50/50 chance of getting it right). Then loosen the ignition module and turn it just until the LED light (on the module) turns on or goes out (depending on which method you use-repair manual or SEI instructions). I really dont have any way of making it any simpler than the instructions given in the manual or SEI instructions posted  Maybe you'll just have to walk through it to figure it out. If using a timing light suits you better, you'll need the clear plastic timing hole plug (that Harley's have used for years-same plug) or you'll get oil everywhere when you time it with the engine running. With this method you'll look for the two dots on the flywheel with the engine running at 1200 rpm. The static timing method (engine off) will be right on the money if you verify it with the dynamic timing method (engine on). However, if you continue to have problems you should check it with a timing light (engine running) as some problems will only show up with the light. | |||
| Garlic_sauce |
This is Spooky's instructions: Set the timing 1. connect the battery cables to the battery, pos. cable first. 2. Statically time the engine: a. Remove the spark plug from the engine. b. Remove the timing-window plug from the crankcase. c. Raise the rear wheel or the motorcycle.(If you have no way of raising the rear of the motorcycle don't worry.) d. Shift the transmission into fifth gear. standing on the left side of the motorcycle, slowly rotate the rear wheel in a counterclockwise direction until the intake valve opens and closes, as viewed through the spark plug hole. (This is a bitch to see.) e. Rotate the rear wheel until the vertical TDC mark is centered in the timing window. f. Turn the ignition to the ON position. g. Slowly rotate the module plate until the red LED is not illuminated, then tighten the module plate screws to 15-30 in-lbs. 3. Lower the rear wheel of the motorcycle and install the spark plug. 4. Verify timing with timing light. Refer to the service manual. 5. Install the timing cover(s). Install a new timing cover on Buell Blast models. * If you can not raise the rear of the motorcycle follow steps a,b,and e. You will need to let the module lay outside of the timing case. Push the motorcycle in fifth gear until the cut out in the timing cup is somewhere between the 1 and 3 o'clock position. Check to make sure you see the vertical TDC mark is center in the timing window. put the module plate back in the timing case and move on to step f. | |||
| Blade567890 |
So I can't find the intake valve through the spark plug hole, where is it located? | |||
| Ezblast |
Is the Tank off, use a small flashlight and rotate the wheel in 5th and you'll see it. EZ | |||
| Blade567890 |
Alright, so I just spent a few hours going over the bike with a friend of mine (motorcycle mechanic) and this is what we came up with. 1st of all, one of the motor mount screws (that is also attached to the ground wire) came loose, causing the rattling sound and the vibration. However, the engine still knocks when under strain. It is ONLY when it is under strain that is knocks though, even when reved up standing still it sounds fine. | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
"A lot of people assume the Blast is like any other Buell or Harley and will run it that way-low rpm riding and relying on the torque to pull it around. That will add to the vibrations and knocking." The Blast does not like to be 'lugged'. While I may seem to harp on certain things, its very often that people are afraid to wind these bikes out. They are torquey , but you cant run them at low rpms like a Harley. Unless you flushed all the old gas out, I'd run a tankful through first. Since you've now done the timing, you can retard it a degree or 2. That means just turn the module little. "To advance the timing, you want to rotate the ignition module clockwise (as you are looking at it). If you advance it too far though, your motor will start pinging under load- which is NOT good ! You then NEED to back off or retard it some- until the pinging stops, this will be a counterclockwise rotation to retard the timing. I hope that helps. Advancing the timing increases the idle speed, retarding decreases idle speed." I dont remember if you did the adjustment, but the primary chain may be loose and causing the knocking if its really bad. | |||
| Blade567890 |
I've already taken care of the timing, that's not the problem. And the RPMs isn't the problem, I know that already, I'm not relying on the torque I'm running it with pretty high RPMs. I'll check out the primary chain as well. The only theory my mechanic and I could come up with was that it had been run for 10000 miles on regular gas, and that there was a great deal of buildup on the piston head. He thought running a tank of high octane would help, I was wondering if there are any additives that could help get rid of carbon buildup | |||
| Blade567890 |
Alright, this is a recording of the bike, if someone could tell me if it's sounding right or not. Thanks
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| Blade567890 |
and a new symptom that I just noticed, whenever I start the bike up, it runs fast for about 30-50 seconds then slows down to a normal idle. | |||
| Blade567890 |
and I get to post again. I thought that maybe it would be a good idea for me to run a tank of high octane fuel through the thing, maybe it was carbon buildup on the piston. So I ran it for about 30 minutes and then I noticed that there was some smoke coming from the bike, so I turned the bike off, and then looked at the exhaust and there is a wet spot about the size of an orange directly below the shift lever on the exhaust muffler. I don't know if this is involved, but well, I'm putting everything I see here. | |||
| Ezblast |
A primary oil leak - check level. EZ | |||
| Blade567890 |
I've checked the level and it seems to be pretty stable, from the last time I checked it a few weeks ago | |||
| Ezblast |
Try to trace the leak, make that file a wav or sound file - that one isn't working. EZ | |||
| Blade567890 |
Oh, sorry, that's a movie file, ill see if I can record a sound only file | |||
| Ezblast |
If the sound is getting worse - I would open up the primary side and have a look. EZ | |||
| Blade567890 |
The primary side, meaning the side with the primary chain, but do you mean the entire transmission cover, or just the small cover that's behind the footpeg? | |||
| Ezblast |
The entire cover. EZ | |||
| Blade567890 |
when you talk about the primary side, do you mean the entire transmission cover or just the smaller circular cover that's behind the footpeg? | |||
| Ezblast |
Both have to come off - Yes, If you are going all the way to the shift pawl, then pick up a new detent plate, 2 new detent clips, a primary gasket, and a inspection cover gasket, and a shift shaft seal, lower chain guide/shoe, and o-rings for the primary adjuster, and primary drain bolt, and perhaps a new o-ring for the clutch cable as well. Sand and round the edges of the stator wire protection plate, and make sure the drum pins are the same size - 0.335 max - putting a drop of red locktite at the base of the pin and gently tapping it back in to the right size. Replace the detent plate and clip, adding a second if there seems to be enough room. Make sure that bolt is torqued to spec, Then do the shift pawl adjustment., then the clutch adjustment at the clutch, then at the adjuster and handle, then the primary adjustment. EZ |
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