| Author | Message | ||
     Almo |
So it all started on a real nice trip to Yosemite. We were riding on the freeway and I noticed the blast (wife was on it )was kinda loud. Pulled in and noticed the nuts had come off the studs that holds on the exhaust flange at the head. (This was a used 2002 Blast we bought with 7000 miles on it looked seemed and felt in great shape.) Got more nuts put em on thought nothing of it did 500+ miles there and home. The bike sat for a while took it for a few runs over a 2 month period. one day we were goin for a ride on our bikes and I noticed the stud for the exhaust flange at the head was broke!!!! I was like WTF I just fixed that I was sooo pissed and it was a real nice day as well. I left it there "cursing the bike". So when I went back to fix the stud I had a snoop round. Then I spotted the isolator bolts going into the head. One was on and the other was sheared off. The one on the right side was still there but looked bad/loose and may have widedened out the threds in the head. The other bolt was sheered completely off leaving the rest of the bolt stuck in the head it's about 1/16 inside the head there's no hope of grabbing it with anything. only option is drill it out and maybe use an easy out. So here's the thing what do you think I should do?? I'm pretty handy and have allot of tools at my disposal time is my problem it has been sittin now for 3 months and I want to get her goin. I called the dealer (I live in San Francisco) all they said was bring it in they might get the bolt out if they can't do that they would have to rebuild the head?? I ask how much roughly for each option they would in no way give me any idea unless I bring it in. does anyone have any idea how much this would cost even a ballpark figure??? if it's too much maybe I'll have a crack at my self. Anyone ever done this them self would I need special tools?? also does anyone know the part numbers of the two bolts? would I need to remove the engine?? Or should I just bite the bullet and give it to the dealer. Sorry for the long rant but i need to get this baby back on the road. Any help would be great Thanks | ||
| Ezblast |
That dealer sucks - your better off doing it yourself than letting Dudley Perkins do it - they'll screw that pouch. First get the other bolt out, then buy fresh bolts and use one to test the both holes for stretching - should be no wiggle when in. I used to live there - live in Antioch now and commute to SF for work. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Oh yeah - inspect your isolator - probably cracked and needs replacing. EZ | ||
| Krjoseph |
I had the same thing happen, but the isolator failed too. I've heard of a few folks having 1 bolt break on the early Blasts. Some can get the sheared screw out, but I couldn't. I replaced the head myself. It wasn't hard, just took a few nights in the garage after work. | ||
| Reuel |
Another thing is, they'll just grab some bolt laying around to replace it. I got my bolt out with an EZ-Out. That's a risk, though, because if the bolt is stuck and you break the EZ-Out, then you're in a world of hurt trying to get that out. Use PB Breaker on the bolt before you try to turn it. You must get the exact bolt that is in the parts catalog for that hole. If you get any other bolt, it will break again. Mine broke 3 times by the time I got to 13K. I got the correct bolt, and have installed it 3 times, contrary to the "do not reuse" instructions, yet it has not broken, and I'm past 35K now. Broken exhaust studs need some generous PB Breaker applied before you do anything. Drilling them out runs a high risk of needing a helicoil. You can put a nut over the broken bolt and weld it to the bolt. When that fails (1 out of 2 time for me) you'll have to resort to drilling, and expecting to helicoil it. | ||
| Almo |
I have taken care of the exhaust bolt I got a Lesiel stud remover great tool!! is it hard to remove the engine from the blast. it seems to me like i would have to remove the engine to drill out the broken stud. has anyone done this with the engine still in place?? also what is "PB breaker" excuse my ignorance thanks | ||
| Ezblast |
PB Breaker is an oil that helps breakdown rust and glue solvents,and lubricates threads, making it easier to turn. EZ | ||
| Reuel |
I have. Get PB Breaker in a spray can at your local auto part store. I don't remember exactly how I did it, but I remember a jack was involved, and I pulled the horn out of the way. Barely got a drill in there, and barely got the EZ-Out in there. What was left of the bolt was not tight, so it came unscrewed quite easily. If you can't get at it, you can pull the head off, since the bolt is screwed into the head. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
got my bolt out with an EZ-Out. That's a risk, though, because if the bolt is stuck and you break the EZ-Out, then you're in a world of hurt trying to get that out. Very Important! EZ-outs are the last hope of the desperate. If you've used them with success (EZ has had lots of practice) then go to it. But you're likely to end up like dozens of others who've had to replace their head (you dont have to pull the engine for either). A far better option is to find a left handed drill and go that route. At least that way everything is going in the out direction and you can even tap (left handed) the old stud and pull it out that way and if it breaks you dont have the worlds hardest metal to drill through. There is also a machine shop machine that can get the bolt out(I forget the name-Fast?). Anyway, an EZ-Out is the tool of the damned and there are other options (besides the ones I gave). PS Dont expect to find left handed drills and taps at Home Depot though. They are not common, but can be found. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Options (they keep coming to me)  is to drill and tap for a regular bolt and Loctite that in there. At least if that doesnt work, you're still no worse off. If anything, pull the head yourself and take it to a machine shop that specializes in engine repair. | ||
| Jlnance |
If anything, pull the head yourself and take it to a machine shop that specializes in engine repair. I've uses cyclerama, a sponsor here, to fix my Blast head. I needed their service after a failed attempt to drill out an exhaust stud. I was very pleased with the work. They also replaced the value guide seals while they were working on it, and my Blast uses noticeably less oil now. If you take the head off, you will have to redo the gaskets from the base up. It isn't a big deal, HD sells a top end gasket kit that contains everything you need. It is nice to have someone around who has done it before. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The repair manual actually implies, believe it or not, that you Do Not have to remove the cylinder along with the head: "If only cylinder head work was needed, reinstall cylinder head following these instructions. If further repair is required, see 3.6 CYLINDER AND PISTON." (from page 3-33) So the manual does not believe you need to remove the cylinder and clearly states that. So, its up to you. You must not, however, disturb the cylinder base gasket by moving the cylinder. Luckily the cylinder head usually comes right off without any hammer work. This is a moot point if the base gasket is already leaking. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS Welcome Almo! | ||
| Swampy |
Welcome Almo! I have had to remove lots of broken bolts. They all have drilled pretty easy and EZ outed really easy. If the threads in the head are at all enlarged, you will want to repair that. I have had really good success with using Helicoil to repair the hole. I stacked the helicoils to fill the entire hole length. I cut a helicoil short for the first one into the hole then put a full one on top of that using Hi-Temp Red locktite on the helicoil. I then used a factory bolt with Red Locktite using the recommended installation proceedure and have not had any problems on either of the two Blasts I have done it with. It seemed I was replacing those bolts every couple of thousand miles before I used the Helicoils. I removed the forks to gain easy access to the holes for drilling/helicoiling. | ||
| Fast1075 |
The mystery process Erik was mentioning is what is generally known as EDM or using an EDM machine (Electric Discharge Machine)...a top notch machine shop will have one...it can remove even a rusted or galled bolt or stud without damaging the head... | ||
| Reuel |
I took my head to a machine shop, and had to helicoil one of the holes because the guy can't hold a drill straight. Had I known he was going to do that, I could have done it myself. So am I in any danger if I only used one helicoil for an exhaust stud? | ||
| Almo |
Man I'm one lucky sob. So I went at it got my self some left hand drill bits and EZ outs. Ended up jacking up the engine and getting my little air drill in Straight. The frikkin bolt was loose (no wonder it sheared)!!! wohooo it started to unscrew as i started to drill it. I had it out in 5 seconds flat (if i knew this 4 months ago anyways) so now whats next where can i find the procedure and parts of putting the beast back together. Oh and buy the way what exactly are helicoils??? Thanks again guys and thanks for the welcome | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The procedure is in the repair manual and you must follow it. If you are going to work on your Blast you need one. Helicoils are for damaged thread replacement which it doesnt sound like you need. Sorry, I dont have the time or ability to retype or scan/post the instructions. | ||
| Swampy |
Almo, check the hole with a new bolt, if the new bolt will wobble around in the hole when it is screwed in, I would recommend installing helicoils into the holes. Either way you need to install two new factory bolts and washers and follow the installation proceedure. The proceedure goes something like this: Tighten the bolts to 60 ft lbs, loosen one full turn and retighten to 60 ft lbs. If the holes are good, don't ever touch the bolts again, such as checking for loose things with a wrench, the bolts are either tight or broken. | ||
| Ezblast |
Concur! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Thats the correct torque, but not the whole procedure. Please refer to the manual. I still dont have a scanner or I'd post it myself. | ||
| Almo |
Ok so gonna try and repair her to day I think I have all I need. I just need the repair manual. I did find this: http://www.doncasto.net/boltreport.html it seems to give a good procedure but I just want to be sure. I know now how important it is to get this right. If someone can verify this procedure as the right one then that's what I will use. Where can I get/download the repair manual? I cannot seem to find it anywhere. Thanks people | ||
| Swampy |
Hopefully you do not have a broken mounting tab, so your repair should go easy. Before you do anything, check to make sure the bolt holes in the head are not enlarged to where the bolts wobble around. I was frequently changing broken bolts until I used the Helicoils. Since I have used the Helicoils I have not had one break in either of the two Blasts. The manual reads that you need to put a light coat of oil under the NEW bolt head and NEW washer, torque the bolts to 60 ft. lbs., loosen one full turn then retorque to 60 ft. lbs. The manual says to put a liberal amount of Red Locktite on the threads. The new bolts come with some sort of waxy coating on them, I put Red Locktite on anyways. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Almo, follow the procedure in the Blast repair manual. While thats a great article, I did not read a step by step procedure in it. Its also for a tuber model, not a Blast. Swampys post is as close as you can get to the manual procedure. DO NOT deviate from the procedure. No shortcuts, no bolt 'changes', no "better" ideas, etc. PM EZ for the repair manual. | ||
| Tsunamix |
I also live in San Francisco area. How did the engine repair go? Let me know if you still need any help or an extra pair of hands. It took me a while, but I got through the engine in putting it back together, now it's that carb i'm dealing with. =) | ||
| Ezblast |
I live in Antioch and can help as well - if needed. EZ | ||
| Mrphotoman |
The top part of my exhaust pipe fell off and is gone on my 2008 buell blast. I have a vance and hines exhaust to replace it with but the stock buell parts from the pipe is missing (see photos below) http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f227/salesimage1 /2008-Buell-Blasta3.jpg http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f227/salesimage1 /2008-Buell-Blasta2.jpg In the v&h instructions it says to reuse the stock head pipe and muffler assembly and to reuse the circlip and flange from the stock exhaust. What parts are they talking about and what are the part numbers? How much would it cost shipped to wv 26206 for the parts I need? Do you have the part numbers, I assume I am missing the circlip and flange, correct? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
flange pt# 65328-83 retaining ring pt #65325-83A Those are Harley part numbers and have been in use for many years and cover many, many different models. Its very likely in stock or a suitable replacement is. Some Harleys use a thicker flange that may or may not work. Sometimes an aftermarket exhaust wont leave enough threads on the header stud to use the thicker flange and some gaskets are also thicker which doesnt help. So there is a high probability it is in stock at the local dealer and they are available aftermarket too. (J & P, Dennis Kirk or perhaps American Sport Bike) |
