| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
Wes - hows it going? Idea - check for vacuum leaks, around the plugged line on carbs side - its 49 stated right?, cracked intake boot, torn diaphragm, bad gas, dirty low jet - those are your obvious culprits. After that it gets complicated. EZ (Message edited by ezblast on April 20, 2009) | ||
| Blastofrage |
ok can someone recommend a jetting setup,i am adding a v&h ss2r exhaust with a tall stack and filter i havent seen any for these upgrades maybe not lookin in right places | ||
| Toniportray |
The boot checks out fine and doesn't show any signs of cracking or really any wear at all since I bought it last year. The carburetor has been thoroughly cleaned with no improvements. Timing is near perfect, and I checked the TPS (that caused my major problems a year ago), but it is still where it should be and the voltage reading is good. I've tried spraying carb cleaner and starter fluid around the intake and carburetor areas, but the system doesn't respond in any way to indicate that either chemical is seeping through. Compression check says everything inside the chamber is good (I assume). I've tried both a HD plug and a Champion spark plug and there's no change in operations. Both look and should run fine. This is an Arizona model so it doesn't have the emissions stuff on the Cali models, although I have made all the adjustments to redirect the PCV flow and free up the idle mixture screw. Bad gas is a possibility though it came from Shell and I've been filling up with my car and had no noticeable problems. I've got a stock exhaust with no mods on (and my modded one in the garage), but I wonder if maybe it somehow wiggled out of it's sealed seat from the exhaust port. Everything looks tight, but it's my suspicion that maybe it's not fully seated in the exhaust port gasket. Would a leaking exhaust lead to these symptoms of near constant misfiring with sudden throttle changes? I seem to recall that when my exhaust port cracked completely open some time ago that there were similar symptoms of really poor engine operation. I'll check that next along with the gas. | ||
| Ezblast |
The emulsion tube could be clogged - carb sounds like it needs cleaning - low jet, main, emulsifier. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Blastofrage try 45/175, 2 shims. Then 46 or 48/180, 2 shims. You're really not going to be that far off from anything else. As with any carb tuning your results may be different. After you've got the 45/175 change only one thing at a time, then note the difference. Dont do jetting and shims all at once. EZ's the stack expert. Make sure you have the correct filter on and if in doubt, run without it. Keep your leg out of the way of the carb opening too. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Toni" everything was normal until I pulled in the clutch (from 60mph crusing of 40 miles) and began to coast as traffic was jammed up ahead (always jammed at the 80/580 Southbound Merger). After slowing to about 25mph and lane splitting, I let out the clutch in the appropriate gear and give some throttle. LOTS of misfiring and sputtering." That indicates a bad safety switch. It might just be coincidence but.... Flip the clutch diode. Splice the kickstand safety switch wires together. A loose spark plug wire can cause that problem (but you've checked that). Most everything else you mentioned just dont go bad like that. A loose, broken exhaust really shouldnt cause major problems. A bad ignition module could act up like that. Do the safety switches first. Hope to see you this weekend. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Clutch diode swap: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/55319.html | ||
| Ezblast |
Zendurence is correct - 12-1267-01 Black is the correct new number, transitions happen like that, at least it stays stock - hecka cheaper price! EZ | ||
| Blastofrage |
well thank you gearheaderiko and ez is that jet gonna work with other exhaust to cause i have read here that the v&h might be a bit too loud | ||
| Zendurance |
where do i reroute or what do i do with the tube at the carb opening when i put on the velocity stack? | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
Do you mean the pcv "spigot"? I rerouted mine under my seat with a breather filter. I also turned the pcv valve around 180 degrees and shortened the hose. Then I t'd it off so it goes up through the frame.  | ||
| Zendurance |
thanks garlic. any chance you have a picture of where you t'd it off? | ||
| Zendurance |
sorry if these questions seem trivial but i've gotten myself pretty confused over this... so there is a tube coming off the top right screw that holds the stock airbox setup to the carb. the tube crosses the carb port, has a T pointing straight into the carb, continues across and thru a hole going out of the airbox (towards the center of the bike). on the other side of the hole (outside the airbox) the tube ends and is not connected to anything. i did notice (by feeling around) another T or some kind of joint that wasn't connected to anything. -should the tube be connected to something on that end? -if so, what? -if not, and the beginning of the tube is a dead end at a screw on the carb, do i need that section of tubing at all? thanks for the help. eventually i'll get that velocity stack figured out. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Lets try and simplify things and lets assume you are looking at the PCV hose: ALL you need is one hose coming off the valve cover. Forget about the T's and routing, its meaningless. Run that one hose from the valve cover to the ground, leaving it open. Done. Thats all you need. Ditch the rest. If you want to make things pretty and PC (politically correct) enginewise, install a breather filter, such as the blue one pictured above, at the end of the line. One step further is to hide the line and breather somewhere on the bike (like pictured above under the seat). You should be warned that your bike may still spit out a lot of oil through the breather and coat whatever is near the breather. Some bikes spit out a lot, some dont. You'll find out! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS Any other lines that are the same size as the breather line are for OIL! If you cut them or pull them off you will quickly find out you've hit the wrong one. In short they are either breather or oil. | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner I was busy today. I just turned the existing "T" upwards to get it through the frame. Also I left the plug on the end but I shortened the hose so I could still drain it properly. I will post a pic tomorrow for you if you'd like. Like mentioned above you don't have to do it the way I did but I just don't like the idea of oil any where near my back tire. All though many people just point it "down and away". It's up to you. I'll also snap some pictures of what NOT to cut if you want. Again though sorry for leavin ya hangin.} | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Just to clarify: I wasnt approving or disapproving of any method. I'm just trying to simplify it as an explanation of what exactly is being done. When you look at the mess of T's and hoses (especially on a CA bike) it can seem very confusing. How you do it is your choice  | ||
| Zendurance |
thank you gearhead and no worries garlic. i love how in this forum everyone is willing to try and answer questions. gearhead- thanks for the simplicity, if all else fails that's what i'll be doing. garlic- i'd love to see whatever pics you have of your setup. i also am a bit weary of oil aimed in the vicinity of the back tire. and again thanks to both! if only answers to all life's questions were as easy as posting in a forum... | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
Zendurance, did you get that link I pm'd you? | ||
| Zendurance |
hey garlic, yeah sorry for not responding. i did get the message and it definitely helped. all i need is a new gasket (tomorrow) and then the install on saturday. i'll let you know how it goes! first big mod.... | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
Cool man, good to hear. Yeah let me know how it goes. I LOVE MODDSSS!} | ||
| Blastofrage |
ok ez you seem to be "THE MAN" when it comes to these custom stack intakes is the stack in the pic metal and will that work with a plastic stack mine showed up monday and it is plastic. | ||
| Ezblast |
The stack is plastic, you'll need a carb gasket as well. EZ | ||
| Zendurance |
anyone have a picture of these fabled #6 washers for shimming the carb needle?? or any other info for that matter. if i go to the hardware store and say i need a #6 washer will they know what i'm talking about? thanks! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
# 4 washers. Available at most hardware and R/C model hobby shops. They'll know what you are talking about. | ||
| Ezblast |
Concur | ||
| Zendurance |
awesome. called up RC Performance & Hobbies here in madison, knew exactly what i needed. pic for those still confused...  | ||
| Ezblast |
lol | ||
| Johnnymac |
Heh... you should take a pic with a tape measure or ruler beside the washers for scale. They could be 1/2" lag bolt washers for all we can tell.  BTW, those aren't brass washers. Not sure how they will react to the fuel in the carb over an extended period of time but chances are they will be ok I guess. I got mine at Lowe's in the specialty fastener section in one of the 'brass' drawers. | ||
| Zendurance |
that is a very good point. i actually got stainless #6 before, thinking i knew what i needed. wrongo. now i have brass #4's from the local madison RC shop. |
