| Author | Message | ||
     Hld01blast |
Thanks guys! | ||
| Johnnymac |
Installed the needle shims, adjusted the idle mixture screw, and installed a new oil breather filter. Bike runs GREAT! I do have another question though. Can anyone tell me the outer diameter of the intake boot or, if they have one, the inner diameter of the "superboot" clamp (without the rubber boot)? I ask because I want to create my own superboot and I wanna order it today and I'm too lazy to pop off my boot to measure it (I'm also at work right now).  I'm not spending $50 for a "superboot" I can make myself for only $9. Summit sells the butt-joint band clamps for @ $9 and it's exactly what the "superboot" is made from. I just need to know if a 2", 2.25" or 2.5" clamp is the correct size. I am betting it's the 2" or 2.25" but I hate it when I order incorrect sizes.  Here's the link to the clamps if anyone else would like to save a few (lotta) bucks: http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=4003 58+302014+115&autoview=sku TIA ~ Johnny (Message edited by JohnnyMac on April 08, 2009) | ||
| Phoebe |
You'll also have to cut down the clamp so it fits on the boot, as well as machine down the outside of the boot so it's a flat surface so the clamp can work effectively. Or you can use 1 3/4" hydraulic hose instead. | ||
| Johnnymac |
Thanks, Phoebe. I figured I would have to do some grinding but that's the fun part.  I would do the hydraulic hose but for 2 reasons... first, it's hard to find a place near me that sells it and is open when I have the time to buy it. Second, I like the look of the large stainless steel clamp. It kinda dresses things up a bit.  | ||
| Thumpe |
Johnnymac, I don't know if the dynomax clamp will work i never tried that one it might you need 2.25" There's more in my clamp then just a cut up clamp though. I replace all steel parts with aluminum an stainless steel hardware. An machine some of the other parts to make them lighter too weighting in at only 5oz. An i offered these to forum members for $40. | ||
| Krjoseph |
Yep, you could do it yourself, buy the parts and spend you're time. Or just pay Dan $40 and be done with it. It's a high quality product, I highly recommend it. | ||
| Ezblast |
I just checked that out - the dynomax - ng - KRJ is correct! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Caution: using anything but the original Blast boot is asking for trouble. Many have tried other hoses and almost always it results in failure. Yeah, even $40 sounds expensive, until you start adding up the time it takes + parts. I understand about wanting to make your own though. | ||
| Ezblast |
Two tricks to it - both which Dan addresses in his: 1) The seal has to stay positive. 2) The sucker has to hold on tighter than a leprechaun to his gold - damn tight. If it can do those two things and not tear - then it is a success! EZ | ||
| Zendurance |
looking through the archives at Laura's ramflo 450 air filter. i'd like to do the same, or similar, but where can i get one?? the ramflo website seems to not exist anymore. am i missing something?! i'm new here so there's a good chance the answer is yes. if i can't get the ramflo, any other ideas for a quick, clean looking, minimalist upgrade similar to the ramflo? | ||
| Ezblast |
http://vesquared.com/ramflo/whyramflo.htm EZ | ||
| Zendurance |
thanks EZ. what size neck do i have? i've got a 2001. i thought i remembered reading 2.5" somewhere, but the closest they have is 2 15/32" (63mm). also, got any suggestions for the best mounting type? they have three options for the 63mm | ||
| Ezblast |
Please contact us if you need any assistance: RamFlo USA 304 Morris Street Cumberland, RI 02864 Phone: 401-965-0650 ramflo@vesquared.com Got me - call them, and let us know. EZ | ||
| Zendurance |
all i've found out so far is that the email address is either wrong or doesn't exist anymore (i double checked the website to make sure). i'll call tomorrow and post about whether or not the phone number goes anywhere. | ||
| Dummkauf |
Anyone know of any tricks to adjust the idle air mixture screw with the stock airbox still attached? I adjusted it when Installing my new D&D exhaust, however now that it's warm enough to go riding again I've noticed that once the bike warms up and the auto-choke feature turns off that it idles very very slowly, and every once in a while will die, which is rather annoying. I also rejetted but the bike seems to be fine once I give it some gas, and if I hold the throttle open just a bit when in neutral the bike will idle like it should which is leading me to believe my idle air mixture is a bit off. Although if anyone has any theories as to what the idle issue is other than the idle air mixture I'm all ears. So far I've taken a small screw driver and bent the end to a 90 degree turn. That worked although I can only turn the screw about a 1/4 turn(probly less) before I hit the air box or cylinder. The smallest wrench I have with a flat head bit in the end won't fit. I've tried just sticking a flat head bit up there but I can't get my hand in far enough to be able to twist the little bugger. Iit's looking like I'm going to have to pull the whole air box off again to adjust but I just thought I'd throw the question out there in case someone knows of a good way to do it. | ||
| Swampy |
I saw an oversized idle air adjustmet screw in JP Cycle one time, I don't have a catalog with me but you can probably find one online. It has a big thumb wheel to make the adjustment by hand. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
They are $20+ dollars and since they fit all carburated Buells, Sportsters and Big Twins from the last 15+ years, they are readily available from a few sources. Expensive, but very handy! | ||
| Zendurance |
so if i switch to the velocity stack with an outerwears filter (135-B right?) do i need to rejet right away? i had planned on rejetting once i got to the exhaust, but financially it may be a while before i can. if i do have to rejet, is 48/175 good? i'm thinking of a Jardine pipe when the time comes. thanks! | ||
| Ezblast |
12-2528 is the new part number for the outerwear filter you need. EZ | ||
| Dummkauf |
Thanks for the tip swampy & gearhead. I have a feeling that it will take a couple adjustments to get it just right and the $25 I just spend ordering one of those screws is well worth it to me if it saves me from having to pull the airbox off between every adjustment. (Message edited by dummkauf on April 15, 2009) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Mark the knob with a felt tip pen or etching or grind, so you'll know how far you turn it. | ||
| Zendurance |
so do i need to rejet if my only mod is the velocity stack? if so, to what size jets? | ||
| Dwinecracker |
Just thought I would throw this out there... doesn't the price on this seem a little high? lol!!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Buell-Blast-Pro-Ser ies_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a317Q7c66Q3a2Q 7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a 1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem1 90300210811QQitemZ190300210811QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fP artsQ5fAccessories | ||
| Thumpe |
LOL that's cheap i seen them get $200-300 for them because there a discontinued part. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Zendurance: I'd start with the 45/170 combo and go from there. Its unlikely you'll need more than a 175 main and shimming the needle will probably help too. So change the slow jet to a 45 and drill out the idle air mixture screw. Then see how it runs. Then you may want to try a 175 main, but it might be too rich with the stock exhaust. Then you can try shimming the needle. Few run a non stock air cleaner without changing the exhaust first. You're in a select group, but your jettings going to be close to stock. | ||
| Zendurance |
thanks gearhead. yeah, the exhaust will happen too, probably V&H because of budget, i just have to scrounge up some cash before i can get to it. i've had the bike for 2 weeks and i'm itching to do every mod i can! the velocity stack was pretty inexpensive so i jumped on that right away. what do you suggest for a V&H pipe? i think i remember reading 45/175 with .05 needle shim. | ||
| Ezblast |
Correct. However, if you have to go past 3 1/2 turns out on the air screw, try a 48 low jet. Also note - the new stock number for the correct filter for the stack is - 12-1267-01 for black - available in black and white! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on April 23, 2009) | ||
| Toniportray |
Alright guys. I've got an issue to deal with before I can attempt the SLO ride. Two rides ago I was commuting into Berkeley and everything was normal until I pulled in the clutch (from 60mph crusing of 40 miles) and began to coast as traffic was jammed up ahead (always jammed at the 80/580 Southbound Merger). After slowing to about 25mph and lane splitting, I let out the clutch in the appropriate gear and give some throttle. LOTS of misfiring and sputtering. There's so much misfire, that I can barely get any power to the back wheel to keep me moving. I pull in the clutch to led the engine idle for a minute and try again. Same problem. Just lots of sloppy misfiring. Slow way down into 2nd gear and 15mph and let out the clutch with no gas. A little misfiring at first, but then everything goes normal. I give some throttle and it starts misfiring and sputtering again. I've found that if I shift really low, like 2nd at 10mph and 3rd at 20mph, there is little if any sputtering. I then have to accelerate really, really slowly, keeping an almost constant throttle position. If I open up the throttle or even hit a tiny bump in the road that makes my hand jerk, the sputtering starts back up and I have to slow back down, pull in and then release back the clutch, and then hold a constant throttle position as I creep up to a faster speed for shifting into the next gear. It's really, really bad. Once I can get into 5th and ride above 45mph, the problem seems to go away. Holding a constant 60mph in 5th has no problems whatsoever. I went to a friends house in Berkeley and pulled the spark plug. It was white coated and had some decent sized carbon build up, but that was probably because I was running at 2.333 turns out with my idle mixture for the last 200 miles. I cleaned the spark plug up nice and reset my idle mixture screw to the standard 2 turns out. It didn't help at all. Fortunately, by accelerating literally as slow as possible and holding my throttle as steady as possible to not make sudden changes, I was able to get back to Petaluma the next day. That was probably the most nerve wracking 45 miles of travel I've ever had. I checked to see that the boot was still correctly attached and that the carb was seated and it all looks fine. The weird thing is my idle runs fine. It's as soon as I give gas that it starts sputtering and misfiring. The ONLY thing I've done to the bike around the time this started was put in a different type of oil. It now has a mix of synthetic and dino oil, but I really doubt that is the culprit. Literally 2 days before this started, the bike ran fine. The only reason I would suspect something with the oil is that the problem started only after I added the new oil mixture, though this just may be a false correlation. So please share your ideas and thoughts since I would like to still attend the SLO ride next weekend. Again to summarize: Idle runs fine. Giving gas causes misfiring. Spark plug cleaned with only 4.5k miles (on the spark plug. The bike has 14k). Runs fine in 5th gear at a constant throttle at any speed from 45-65. Usually when the throttle is constant, everything runs fine, but as soon as I change throttle position, it starts misfiring real bad. Stock everything except a K&N filter. The misfiring sounds a lot like a big semi diesel engine-braking. (Message edited by toniportray on April 18, 2009) | ||
| Ezblast |
Check the boot though. Sounds like dirty gas or jets. Kickstand disabled, clutch safety diode fliped, and the roll over valve and line not stuck or crimped? EZ | ||
| Zendurance |
contacted outerwears for the filter fit for the velocity stack. turns out it's no longer a custom order. sweet. the new "regular" part number is 12-1267. still only black or white though. |
