| Author | Message | ||
     Garlic_sauce |
whats up guys, ive been doing a lot of research and i think my backfiring problem is due to a bad ignition module. it only happens once a day sometimes every other day. what happens is im riding along not lugging the engine and the bike chokes once or twice followed a few seconds later by a backfire. sometimes if i let off the throttle for a second and then turn it again it will do the same thing. i recently had it at a buell place and they told me nothing was wrong. Its not "das boot" because i changed a few days ago and its still happening. what do you guys think? | ||
| Ezblast |
Ignition is a good bet, first though eliminate the possibility of the two safeties - Kick stand - twist the two wires together. Clutch - flip the center diode. If it still does it - and carb is clean and good, and no intake leaks/exhaust leaks detected, it probably is the ignition. EZ | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
ok ill try those out. the other day the kickstand was acting up. hmmm. where is the clutch diode though? thanks btw | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
well i cut and twisted the kickstand wires together and went for a good ride and low and behold NO BACKFIRE! I think that was it because when i cut the plastic wire cover it was full of water. It must have been sending a bad signal to the ignition. I never thought the kickstand wire could make my bike back, lol. thanks alot and hopefully that was the problemo. | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
Well the bike still chokes and backfires, looks like i need a new ignition module. | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
Actually, tomarrow ill flip the clutch diode and check the timing. My bike never stalls out it just chokes followed by a backfire. could this simply be timing? thanks | ||
| Ezblast |
I would check for that - timing and any hair line exhaust leaks or cracks, bad carb intake gasket allowing bad air in the carb can do that also, and das boot if not seated correctly and gently tight - lol EZ | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
ok thanks ill check this out tommarow. | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
I think I found the problem. The gasket thats in between the carb and airbox is torn badly and the ring that holds the carb to the airbox is broken in two places where the screws go. What do you think? thanks. | ||
| Ezblast |
Could well be the problem or at least contributing to it. EZ | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
Yeah I think it's the culprit. I had the bike on a dyno at a buell place and they said nothing was wrong. This is something they probably overlooked since the dyno told them the timing and everything else was working properly. This would make the bike idle faster when it's hot I would think. Thanks | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
Is this the part number for the ignition? 32687-00Y thanks. | ||
| Ezblast |
32687-00YA | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
yea i did some research last night about the ignitions. 32687-00Y is the old one for anyone who doesn't know. 32687-00YA is the new one. thanks. | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
I was wondering if anyone who has ordered the 00YA ignition module knows if it comes with everything needed to plug right in or if anythings different and I need to order something else with it. Thanks | ||
| Ezblast |
install and go - just mark exactly where the old one was and put new in exact same place - do static timing to check. EZ | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
OK thanks. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Important: the deutsch connector is very difficult to disassemble and will cause loss of hair and sanity. However, if you know how to pull it apart it is very easy-less than 5 minutes work. The manual is confusing on this point, but I posted the instructions somewhere, probably under ignition module. If you cant figure it out-ask. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
from my earlier post: "The ignition module takes about an hour to change if you know what your doing and not rushing. The hardest part is pulling apart the Deutsch connector (see manual). From the wire side of the plug push the green plug out with a small screwdriver (the kind used to fix eyeglasses) or other small suitable probe (slide back the rubber seal first).Then, on the pin side of the plug, in the center of the plug, are 6 small tabs which when pushed (inward-towards center of plug) will release the wire/pins. It takes about 5 easy minutes to pull the plug apart, but will take an hour or more if you dont know this!!! Note the position of the ignition module before you take it out, it'll make timing it a little easier. Static timing by the book is usually as accurate as dynamic timing with a light, but do check it with a light. If you dont use the clear plastic timing hole plug, oil will spray everywhere! (but it can be done)" | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
OK thanks for the info. | ||
| Ezblast |
Thank you Erik! EZ | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
OK I pulled back the orange rubber seal but I can't figure out how to get the green plug out. Thanks | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
Nevermind I got it. | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
UPDATE: I replaced my old ignition module (00Y) with a new module (00YA). I rode for a combined time of around 5 hours, about 2 1/2 hours each time and the bike DID NOT backfire or "choke".  I fixed a lot of little problems along the way but in the end it was the module. The bike feels brand new. Thanks to everyone who helped me. Now Im going to start on my rearsets. Thanks again. | ||
| Johnnymac |
Awesome, congrats! It's a great feeling insn't it?  | ||
| Swampy |
I remember the feeling after replacing the bad ignition module on the Big Kids Blast, it was like WOW its a new bike, this is how it is supposed to run! | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
Yeah It's awesome! It's nice to just ride and not be anticipating a backfire the whole time. Now I can focus on rearsets and chopping my tail to a one seater. Thanks again.  | ||
| Reuel |
The hall-effect sensor is the weak part of these ignition modules. I'm trying to come up with a good fix. | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
Ok that's cool your working on it, good luck. | ||
| Reuel |
I'm thinking surface mount gear sensor and a chunk of metal (or magnet) added to the timing cup. I'd like to go optical, but dirt could eventually get in the way. |
