| Author | Message | ||
     Hld01blast |
I bought an 01 2 weeks ago - not very well maintained. Changed engine oil/filter, transmission fluid, rejetted (45/170), 2 shims on needle, drilled out PMS screw - turned in and out 2 1/2 turns, basic airbox mod with breather re-route, and installed V&H exhaust. When I fired her up today, there was a loud pop from the exhaust. No other exhaust noise until the bike died a few feet from my driveway, had to restart her and she popped loudly twice again. Here's the deal. When I removed the severely rusted stock exhaust, one of the header studs came out of the jug with the rusty nut attached. Since I could not get the stud and nut apart (even with penetrating oil and a brass brush), I bought another stud at ACE. It was a bit longer on the header pipe end but secured into the engine well. Anyway, I turned the new nut down on the new stud as tightly as possible, but nut will not budge to be all the way up against the header pipe. I did install a new gasket (the thinner one rather than the one for the Blast's stock exhaust) and the pipe feels very tight. I have done a search on the forum and a couple of different options appear as the possible source of the problem - exhaust leak from the header pipe not being tight enough to the head or a timing issue. Any idea which is the more likely culprit? Should I order a stock stud from Chicago Harley and reinstall the header pipe first or try to adjust my timing (static method)? Thanks! Hil | ||
| Ylwblast03 |
It sounds like you are using too large a diameter nut, and it is hitting against the header pipe before it snugs tight against the bolting ring? Is this right? In any case, it sounds like you can't tighten down on the connection enough to get it tight. If that's the case you should fix that first. Then move on to other non-easy fixes. Also, if you are having a large leak from your header you should hear the exhaust escaping from around the header connection. That's all I got...anyone else? | ||
| Hld01blast |
The nut is the same ID and thread as the stud from Ace. Maybe I just need to try to tighten it down further. The socket slipped off the nut a couple of times and I was afraid of damaging it beyond removal in the event I changed the exhaust at some future point, so I stopped trying to tighten it more. I had initially hoped to replace both studs once the first one came out, but the other would not budge. If I cannot get the header tightened, I suppose I will try to remove the new stud and buy an OEM one. Thanks for the advice. | ||
| Krjoseph |
If you used a nut that threads on the stud, it could work. But the stock stud has 2 thread pitches. One is coarse, the other fine. I forget which side is which. | ||
| Ezblast |
Also - Das Boot! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
If the stud is sufficiently threaded, you should be fine. If you're bottoming out on the threads then you have a problem. HD/Buell is very specific on tightening down the exhaust header. The nuts should be torqued, in sequence, to the specs in the book. I'm assuming you used a crushable exhaust gasket and not the hard metal ring they sell for 'racing'? Dont bother with the other stud unless the threads are wasted. "if it aint broke, dont fix it". If the exhaust is leaking that will cause backfiring, but not in the way you seemed to describe it. My gut feeling is again the ignition module, but thats a last resort. You have other problems to sort out first. | ||
| Hld01blast |
Thanks GH. The exhaust gasket was the part number recommended here - 17048-98. There were 2 in the package. I will try to torque the new nut to spec this evening and do some research on the ignition module. | ||
| Krjoseph |
I don't think that's right. I use exhaust gasket 65324-83A. | ||
| Hld01blast |
I got the part number from this thread: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/279096.html At first, the H-D guy gave me the thicker gasket, but then asked what kind of exhaust. When I told him aftermarket,he gave me the 17048-98 instead.  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You can use either.The thin metal 'race' gasket is tough to get a seal with. Any of the other 'mesh' gaskets are fine (though some have their preference). | ||
| Hld01blast |
Okay, I got the exhaust header torqued down and adjusted the clutch. Buttoned the bike back up, hit the starter and she fired right up. Shifted into first to check the clutch adjustment and no more trying to lurch forward when the clutch is pulled at a stop. However, after I shut her off, the header was taking on a blue hue. Hard to imagine I am lean considering that I installed bigger jets, shimmed the needle and turn the idle screw out, but read here that the blue on the pipe and fast idle usually indicates running too lean. Thought I might turn the screw out another 1/4 turn to see if it helps the problem. The really bad news is when I went back out to shoot a quick video of the bike running - wanted to post it up to see if you all thought the idle was too fast - the bike ran for a minute or so then two loud pops out the exhaust and she died. Unlike when this happened last weekend, the bike would not start back up. I have been doing some reading here about the ignition module and am trying to determine exactly what the symptoms of a bad one are. I know there is not way to test one, but I want to do all I can to determine that the module is my problem before I spend the money. I already replaced the boot, adjusted the primary and clutch at both ends, battery is good, carb in clean, gas is good. Anything else I should rule out before ordering a new module? Looking at the manual, it looks like the right foot peg bracket has to be removed to access the timing area/module. Is that correct? Thanks. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Footpeg does not need to be removed and when you get to actually doing the module, we'll point you to the right thread! When your bike does this again, check for spark via the plug wire or LED on the module (the LED wont actually tell you its sparking, but it will tell you if its not). Generally the module will act up when the bike gets hot. Symptoms are very wide ranging and can mimic other problems. Besides what you described- loss of power, backfiring when the key is turned on, backfiring a minute or so after the key is turned on, no spark, erratic spark, inconsistent rev limiter, knock and ping (intermittent and/or regularly), acting completely normal after the bike has cooled down, hard starting, hesitation, or etc... The ignition module LED is the best indicator of the module being bad. But given the wide range of possible symptoms its not a guarantee and you may pull your hair out first. It wouldnt surprise me if the bike was sold because it had a problem that they couldnt figure out. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS with a new pipe (or any non black pipe), some discoloring is normal. Whether yours is normal I couldnt say. | ||
| Hld01blast |
Thanks, Erik. It is a relief to know I will not have to fight with another set of peg nuts just yet. I will try the bike again this evening while checking the module for LED light up. Appreciate the help again. | ||
| Hld01blast |
Bought a spark tester and connected it on my plug and my plug wire. Started the bike and it light up as it was supposed to, so I presume I have good spark. Popped the timing cover off and started the bike again. The LED blinks while the bike is cranking and also blinked constantly while the bike was running. I think I ran out of gas in the carb (tank was off to better access the plug) so the bike shook to a stall with 3 loud pops from the exhaust. Based on advice on the forum, I plan to check the 2 grounds (can anyone tell me the locations of them?) as well as the 3 safety switches to rule out any problems with those. Based on the behavior of the LED on module, does it sound like that could be the culprit? Thought after testing the other items, I would try to adjust the timing to see if that has any impact on the bikes condition. | ||
| Ezblast |
One ground is close to the battery, the other is on the left by your front isolator, connected to it by the left isolator mounting bolt. Sometimes after doing your isolator, you'll have to redo this side, however, if you use new hardware on this side and max torque it, you usually don't have a problem. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
If there isnt a problem happening, you arent going to find any symptoms! When it pops and dies then doesnt start up, thats when to look for the problem. Otherwise you're looking for a problem that isnt there (if its the module). That also goes for checking the safety switches. If you dont have a problem, you're not going to find one. Leave the timing cover off and that will give you immediate access to see if you should have spark (LED). If you find the bikes dies when you pull in the clutch or put up the kickstand, its probably a safety switch. Look for loose wires, but dont start pulling things apart. A Harley/Buell dealer is your best bet. A non HD/Buell shop will have less of a clue about your bike and unless they are really enthusiastic about working on it and have a Buell Blast repair manual, I wouldnt chance it. Lastly, please post your problems in one thread. Posting in two different places is just confusing. You wont get twice as much help, you may actually get less as we are less inclined to read what we believe is a duplicate post! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS Dont adjust the timing if its a sporadic or intermittent problem. You run the risk of messing up what could be the correct adjustment. Disconnecting the TPS can sometimes tell you if the TPS is causing the module to 'act up'. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
If it dies when you shift into gear, that could also be a safety switch. | ||
| Hld01blast |
After checking the grounds, started it a few minutes ago and the LED was lit constantly rather than just when the engine sparks. Guess if I can keep it running well enough to take it to H-D that will be my next course of action. Thanks for all the help guys. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The LED will look constantly lit when the bike is running. Its flashing at over a 1000 times a minute! Your best bet is to wait for the problem to occur (which it seems to do readily) and at least get some idea of whats going on before you take it in. The shop will either keep if for a long time waiting for the problem to appear or tell you they cant find anything wrong and give it back. Ignition module problems drive most people nuts, a shop is no different. (even for all your mistakes, you've done a pretty darn good job of working on your bike. You're learning a lot. A little more diagnostic work on your part doesnt seem to be beyond your capabilities. It would not surprise me if you fixed this problem too.  | ||
| Ezblast |
Concur | ||
| Tnthumper |
Ok got the superboot and Dan's angled intake setup on this weekend.cleaned up and remounted the pro-series exhaust. fixed a couple leaks at header/can attach point but now when i get off throttle in a hurry i am getting a popping in my exhaust. sometimes worse than others. Could i have gotten out of adjustment and be too rich and have an excess fuel prob? i have a new iridium plug due monday and new rear brake pads. I wanna get this fixed b4 i get the cash to order the jardine exhaust set-up. Any ideas on the popping? again it happes when i get out of the throttle in a hurry, like 65mph to closed throttle. John | ||
| Ezblast |
Air mixture screw 2 2/3 to 3 turns out should solve the popping, though I would make sure my intake coupling is ok as well, since popping can potentially cause boot problems - so check it to make sure its on right and tight even if just replaced before the popping. EZ | ||
| Tnthumper |
Ok reset air/fuel screw 3 turns...was double checking everything else( EZ you can kick me when you see me) was missing outer exhaust stud nut. Must have forgot to torque it last time. Am trying to see if i have it here or if dealer has one. Will let you know if that fixes it. you think new exhaust gasket would be good idea as well? john | ||
| Tnthumper |
ok new exhaust gasket and 2 nuts tight this time... gonna go see if that fixed it or not. John | ||
| Tnthumper |
yup I am a dumb@&&,replaced exhaust gasket and put new nut and tightening them down fixed it. John | ||
| Ezblast |
Good news as long as its fixed! EZ |
