| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
45 is still way lean - almost always the af falls between 14 and 15 - I like mine about 1 point lower, as do others - I just can't recommend the 45 for anything except stock, and exhaust only - no intake changes have been made. Honestly a K&N does not constitute an intake change - please note. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
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| Ezblast |
Prove me wrong - show me a single dyno with the 45 primary being under 14 - and I'll grant you the point. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Point is-there is no point. Why spend fuel on a section of the powerband you dont need? On a twin it makes sense because you dont really need to rev the engine out. On a Blast, running at that low rpms you're either a) lugging the engine or b) cruising. Lugging- you'll just 'load up' the engine and cruising- you're just wasting fuel. Both to the detriment of your engine. A 46 slow jet is readily available. If he's running a Pro Series exhaust, its very doubtful he needs a 48-thats Big Twin jetting. You can look at a dyno and see the A/F ratio all you want, but thats not to say that rich is always going to be better and give you a better throttle response. My dyno runs, from memory, have never shown an overly lean condition at idle to 2500rpm. But 2500rpm is where the powerband starts, so I've never documented less than the minimum rpm I'm going to use. I think to advise running 48 is an irresponsible place to start. Thats a HUGE step up from a 42 and I can guarantee 95% of the people aren't setting the idle mixture properly to even know whether a 42, 45, 48 is too lean or rich. Without actually tuning the engine you're talking about you cant really tell what jetting they're going to need. We give guidelines. The carb should be tuned to the bike/rider/conditions. Run the choke on all the time and an engine is going to run like a violated primate, but its still going to be too rich. Its 45 degrees in the morning. I pull the choke out to start the bike, then I'm done with it. 3 blocks out and its idling fine and there isnt any hesitation when I leave my driveway. Thats with a 45. 48 might be right. I respect the fact that you always do your research and have spent waaay more time carb tuning/testing than many. I just dont think 48 is the place to start and my opinion is its needlessly too rich. | ||
| Ezblast |
For a Pro-series, and D&D - yes you could be fine with a 45 pilot, but I know that your AF is at 14 and above there, sure maybe a 46 would be a better selection, but finding one would take some searching, and most folks do not have that talent, however, a 48 puts you between 13 and 13.5 - and that is a great place to be - a tad rich, but honestly not bad at all. I'd be more worried about a too rich or lean main. With a 48 at least you know it will start in the cold winters. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Bike Bandit and Dennis Kirk both carry 46'ers (as well as my toolbox). Hardly difficult to find. Forgive me father for I have sinned. Please let me not have to mention Badweb non-sponsors again....  | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - the one flaw in your logic just hit me. First all other bikes have a secondary jets on their carb which delivers enough fuel to jet down 6 jet sizes on the main and two on the primary - if you where using it on a Blast. Why the choke is too rich, and why you would bring your choke only halfway out on a Blast. I learned this helping a guy out with a Blast chopper project - lol - we have no secondary jetting and are much leaner all around in any factory or near factory trim. Yeah - a 48 is a big step - if you have secondary jetting - I would save that for a performance Blast, however, since regular Blasts don't have secondary jetting - the jet still comes off lean enough to use - with an af between 13.5 and 13 - quite acceptable. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
No flaw, LOL! I'm not using 'secondary' jetting. When I install a twin carb I disconnect the accelerator pump and install the Blast vacuum piston spring and needle. That way I can tune a carb that is basically still a Blast carb, I can be sure the choke is completely off and any adjustments I make are directly applicable to a Blast carb. Install a stock twin carb on a Blast and you'll quickly find out its waaay over rich on jetting, choke and the vacuum spring. Could you tune it in? Sure, but its a lot of work and very little gain (if any) for any road going Blast that isnt much more worked than stock. 48 is a big step with or without secondary jetting, LOL! All I'm saying is people should tune their carb not just blindly put in jetting (which I consider over rich). They should know what they're getting, why and what the consequences are. Air fuel mixture doesnt always equate to more horsepower or better throttle response. If it were a perfect carb and everything else were equal, then you could give out a blanket statement for jetting. Otherwise, they're just guidelines. | ||
| Ezblast |
I concur - The Blast parts are the latest CV hot rod parts being sold in kits - lol - yes they are just guide lines - and I've heard of folks going both richer and leaner after having her sniffed/dynoed, and racers disconnecting the secondary and going to aftermarket secondaries - Thunder Jet, or Dial A Jet for more accurate metering of fuel - of course - the disclaimer as well - we at the BADWEB are not responsible, etc. ....type of thing, what you decide to do with your bike is your responsibility, not ours, etc. LOL EZ | ||
| Dwinecracker |
So, quick question. I recently installed the asb tall velocity stack. The bike was rejetted a while back when I put the V&H pipe on. I have noticed that the bike tends to lug pretty severely in 5th gear under 70 mph since the switch, so... I don't use 5th much lol! Is that normal? All I have done performance wise is pipe, intake and jetting and the shift profile has changed dramatically. | ||
| Ezblast |
Your jetting is no higher than 48/175 - right? EZ | ||
| Dwinecracker |
48/175 that's it, it runs great... just feels like a different powerband. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Are you using an air filter? If so, what? No, its not normal, but problems have been experienced when using the wrong 'filter'. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS: You're not covering the stack with your leg are you? | ||
| Ezblast |
Did you do the needle shimming? EZ | ||
| Dwinecracker |
did a test ride without the filter... ran perfect. guess I am just gonna have to ride open till my outerwears filters get here | ||
| Dwinecracker |
FYI just ordered filters from outerwears. no more special order fee!!! new part number is 12-2528 and comes in white and now black! new price is $11.45 plus shipping. | ||
| Krjoseph |
Great news! Glad they did away with the special order fee. Also, black will be nice, the white one I've got started discoloring quickly. | ||
| Ezblast |
Called and verified - guess there are more Blastards out there then they thought - lol - I'll have to change a few sites tonight to reflect that - thank you everyone for driving down the price! EZ | ||
| Thump |
I'll order one now, in racing Black of course. Thanks for the info Dwinecracker. | ||
| Hld01blast |
Okay, I must be missing something on how to do the rejetting with the carb still on the bike. I have removed my tank, airbox and das boot. Now I have the carb hanging by the throttle cables. I cannot see the jets or EPA plug in this position. Do I remove the black top off the carb to access the jets? I do not want to muck anything up so am not removing anything on the carb until you guys tell me what to do next. The service manual goes through removing the entire carb, but some on the forum have suggested I could do what I need to without doing that - shim the needle, install 45/175 jets and drill out the EPA plug to adjust the air mix screw. There are excellent pics on the forum, but none seems to show the area I see when facing the right side of the bike with the carb in place. Not sure how much I can move the carb around without screwing up the float, etc. Thanks in advance all. Hil | ||
| Thumpe |
Hil, There's two phillip screws in the throttle cable bracket one in the top an one on the side take them off then you can remove the throttle cable easy from the carb watch there's a brass spacer under the top screw under the bracket. With the carb off it much easier to do it on a bench. At the very top of this page third pic down is a shot inside the float bowl an all the info you need. You have to take the float bowl off the bottom is where the jets are. Just be careful taking the bowl off not to knock the float around. Good luck it,s not to hard. (Message edited by thumpe on April 06, 2009) | ||
| Hld01blast |
Thanks Thumpe!!! Was afraid of botching something without clarification on what parts to remove. I will tackle this afternoon and post how it goes! | ||
| Johnnymac |
Hey, EZ (or anyone else who has done it), this weekend I rejetted my carb and it was a piece of cake. The bike runs nice as it is but I still have to adjust the air idle mix screw and shim the needle as suggested. I just need to clarify just what it is that I have to shim. I am guessing that it is #3 in the following pic:  or #5 in this pic:  Am I correct in this assumption? | ||
| Thumpe |
I'm not EZ but correct on both. Pull the needle out an slide correct .050" washers on put back in. Take care when putting the diaphragm back in you get it lined up right an your good. | ||
| Hld01blast |
Okay, I got my carb out but stripped out one of the 4 brass screws in trying to remove the float bowl to get to the jets. I first I pulled out my dremel - thought I would use a cutting wheel to make the screw into a flat head. But then with all the gas and/or gas vapors, I was afraid one of the sparks off the cutting wheel on the metal might ignite. Is it safe to do this in order to get the screw out? Any other suggestions for removal? I am going to replace those with socket head to make reassembly easier. (Message edited by HLD01blast on April 06, 2009) | ||
| Johnnymac |
Thanks for the quick answer, Dan!  | ||
| Hld01blast |
Did the H-D dealer sell me the right main jet? It had 175 around the lip, but it is incredibly short compared to the 165 I just removed. Is the 165 supposed to unscrew from the longer "holder" and then the 175 screw into that? Thanks. | ||
| Crackhead |
yes it unscrews. When i removed mine i used a small box end to hold the holder in place and only removed the jet. | ||
| Thumpe |
Yes just change the jets out of the holder put is back in. |
