| Author | Message | ||
     Hld01blast |
Hi all. I just purchased a used 2001 Blast with under 4K on the clock. The PO told me all the original fluids are in it - figure they all need to be replaced. However, to get it home, had to ride it nearly 100 miles on the Interstate. At one point, I had it up to 80, but it suddenly lost power and I had to pull over on the side of the road. It was dark but I think some smoke was coming off the engine. After about 5 minutes, she fired right up and I rode on home. Anyway, it is very loud at idle and very loud when switching gears - almost sounds like they are stripping a bit when shifting. Any suggestions on what to do first? I know the carb needs cleaned and the PMS screw drilled out and adjusted. Like I said, I need to replace the fluids for sure. Anything else? Any idea what might have made the bike die and then restart? Thanks all. Hil | ||
| Swampy |
Welcome to the Thumper Forum Hld01blast! It will be hard diagnosing what is going on with your Blast, seeing it happened once...but, lets talk about it. The first thing that comes to mind is the ignition module being a 2001. I would check everything out first, fuel, spark plug wire, intake boot, change out the fluids and adjust the primary. Then I would ride it. If it continues to die out and restart and you are not seeing the LED flash in the ignition module under the plastic timing cover(remove it to see the LED) while cranking I would not hesitate to change the ignition module. There is a new and improved one available. Good luck, let us know what happens | ||
| Hld01blast |
Thanks for the welcome Swampy and the advice. Thought I would start for those items first - the bike has not been very well maintained - and then see if the problem is gone from that before getting into anything more complex. The exhaust has rusted pretty good so I was thinking of putting on a V&H and rejetting while I have the carb out for cleaning. Will any of that interfere if it is the ignition module? Thanks again! HLD | ||
| Ezblast |
No. EZ | ||
| Hld01blast |
Thanks@ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Pleeease, unless you are familiar with carbs, Do Not pull the carb apart. There is rarely any reason to completely disassemble the carb. At most the slow jet is usually clogged or you need to change out the slow jet and main jet to richen up the mixture. All thats required for that is carefully removing the float bowl. I've seen more problems caused by the "clean the carburetor" scenario. Certain adjustments are hard to get right again and there is a lot to foul up. Unless you are very familiar with carburetors or the HD Keihin CV carb in particular. Then go right ahead. Otherwise "if it aint broke, dont fix it". PS Welcome! | ||
| Hld01blast |
I have pulled the carbs on my Vstar and Ninja several times - different brand of carbs though. I want to drill the primary mixture screw and assumed the carb would need to come off the bike to access - it did on my other bikes. If I can do this with the carb in place, all the better. Thanks. | ||
| Phoebe |
It's easier to work on if you can take the carburetor off, but if you're using the stock airbox, it's kind of a pain to go through the trouble. I took out my airbox and have a K&N filter instead, so it's easy for me to just loosen up the carb boot and pop it out. But again, it's not necessary. | ||
| Hld01blast |
Thanks for the info. Is that a K&N stack you have? I understand they also have a drop in for the stock air box. I would eliminate the box but am concerned about figuring out the bracing for the carb. | ||
| Phoebe |
Not exactly a stack...it's like a 6" round one. Unfortunately, I had to do a bunch of work to it to get it to fit to the carb because it was made for a smaller flange. For support, I use a "superboot". It's a modified carb boot that has a giant metal clamp around the whole thing. They're available on ebay. |
