| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
Razorblades are brittle - bad choice of metals - lol EZ | ||
| Reuel |
I have some thin aluminum, I think about 1/16" or maybe thinner. I think I'll be trying it out one of these days... | ||
| Swampy |
The other thing is that the longer the separator is the better the throttle response you are going to feel(to a point) The razor blade will probably be too short. | ||
| Thump |
If I switched out to a V-stack, what would I need to re-jet at? My bike runs lean with the stock exhaust. I was going to go 45/170 but figured I might as well put EZ's stack on it while I was messin' around and wasn't sure what difference that would make. What is the maint. like on the stack? I think I read every 3000 mi. I would have to switch filters. Is that about right? (Message edited by thump on December 31, 2008) | ||
| Ezblast |
Thats about right - change the oil at that time as well - I wouldn't go to 175 or 180 till I changed out the exhaust as well. EZ | ||
| Super_cj |
hey how can get a air filter like this one on my 2000 buell blast http://www.nrhsperformance.com/images/forcewindersmall.jpg (Message edited by super_cj on February 11, 2009) | ||
| Ezblast |
Too heavy - even with the new super boot, that puppy would be too heavy. EZ | ||
| Dummkauf |
Ok, I know EZ & swampy are familiar with my recent exhaust purchase from my other threads on here, but I've got a question on getting my carb setup for my new D&D exhaust. I stopped by harley and get my shiny new jets, however now I'm wondering about the needle. EZ suggested shimming the needle 0.05. My question on shimming the needle is: Is the stock needle adjustable? I'm seeing posts about using a washer from the hardware store and I'm not sure how that would work? I'm assuming that means the stock needle does NOT have an adjustable needle clip? And if it is not adjustable does the JET NEEDLE (NOKK) PN 27241-95 recommended on this page have an adjustable clip? A quick google search found a couple harley dealers selling the JET NEEDLE (NOKK) PN 27241-95 for $8. If I could spend $8 on a new needle and skip the hardware store washer technique I would prefer to spend the extra $7.80 and do it correctly the first time around. And just to verify I have all my ducks in a row before I start this project, this is my to-do list thus far: - pull the carb off the bike - Rejet the carb 45/175 - Shim the needle 0.05, and possibly buy a new needle to accomplish this - Put the carb back together - Remove the idle mixture cap and adjust 2 1/2 turns out from it being screwed all the way in. - Put the carb back on the bike. - Replace the spark plug(still running on the same plug that came with it when I bought the bike, so I took EZ's advice and picked up a shiny new iridium plug) - Install the shiny new D&D exhaust. Am I missing anything? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Wrong order. First: Install the exhaust. Then see if it runs and how well. You wont hurt anything running it this way. Your mpg will be outstanding. The exhaust may also come with jetting instructions. The carb doesnt have to be pulled off you can do it all on the bike, but... then change the jets, carefully. See how/if it runs. Drill out the idle mixture cap, carefully. Run the drill into the screw and you're likely to damage the screw seat. Adjust (count how many turns in, for reference, then turn it 2 1/2 out). Pull the tank, change the plug. Pull the carb top off and add the needle washers/shims.(preference would be to do these two items separately, but why pull the tank twice.) Dont fret about the needle. Shim or clip, either way is 'right' (a pack of washers is $.75). Pull the needle off, then slide the washers on the needle (they can only go on one way). Carefully put the needle back without dropping the washers off the needle (a magnet or tweezers can pull them back out). I've ordered the NOKK and it didnt come with a clip. Also, different needles come with different tapers. Change one thing at a time. If you're really good at tuning, then mess with different needles and since very few come with a clip, you'll be using shims anyway. Since I've been remiss in saying this in the past: change one thing at a time. Then if you have a problem, you'll know where it lies (the last thing you did). Dont expect from the help we give to be an expert and do it perfectly. Even experts screw up. An added benefit is that knowing how each change affects your bike, you'll better learn how to diagnose problems later and even on how to improve performance. | ||
| Dummkauf |
Thanks for the info gearhead. I get a little ahead of myself sometimes  | ||
| Ezblast |
A Yost Tube review: First the Toy: This bike has every kind of carb mod available, including custom racing mods which I found out are good for racing,but not riding around on the streets - I had to get a new carb after that - lol - current mods are: 48/160 jetting, a Dial A Jet secondary jetting set to idle position - why my jetting is so lean on the main, shimmed needle to 0.050, a torque stack, and the Yost Tube. Before - there was the slightest pull/jerk where the cam kicked in and on hard up hills a bit of lag in the charge up at around 5000 rpms. The results - powerwise - little to no change, for the simple reason that it is already pretty maxed out. So why am going to leave it in and leave the higher jetting in on the pimary - from 155 to 160? For the simple reason that it has evened out and smoothed out the delivery so much that cam kick and lag are gone, and with it the chances of detination are lessened as well. So I'm going to stay with this mod on my toy - since both the Yost tube and Dial A Jet deliver the fuell in mist form making for a really smooth fuell delivery, and practically eliminating the cam kick and 5000rpm hard up hill hesitation - leaving only a smooth delivery all the way up the rpm band. Now the Dailly rider: This bike is pretty much like everyone elses, with the possible exception of the B50 cam and Force exhaust. Still it is basically a stocker and will behave like any other Blast with a Yost Tube installed - so pay attention to this one. My current carb mods are 48/180 with the needle shimed 0.05", a custom splitter, a torque stack, and the Yost Tube. Yes - I would say that the Yost Tube does bring a pony or two more to the table, and makes for a smoother running engine overall, bring back the last of the bottom end missing on the Force and making the whole process feeling much more linear. So yes it will stay as well. There is one however to all of this that I want to add - when first starting and running - the engine is cold and now more sensitive to the automatic choke, and the first 5 minutes of riding should probably be gentle till the motor is getting a constant fuell delivery not effected by the automatic choke. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Didnt quite understand the last paragraph??? Are you saying it runs differently when cold with the Yost tube, as in a little more hesitation? | ||
| Slowhand96 |
EZ are you running a splitter on both sides of your carb? (Message edited by slowhand96 on February 22, 2009) | ||
| Ezblast |
On both bikes - in the first five minutes both showed a slow hesitation in the 3800rpm area, I could never duplicate it when the bikes where warm and running, not on restarts even if it was some time passed - true both had a day from their last starting and it has been cold at night - still - it disappears quickly and is only noticed if your twisting the wrist kinda quick - lol - it smooths out quick - I suspect it is because the fuel is delivered more heavily then causing the adverse reaction - don't feel like defaulting to the WOT curve - and I can twist past it in no time if I had to or ride it - its not disabling, more like a mild cam kick feeling, after a few min.s its gone - never returns, can't duplicate it - by the second block its gone - not smelling fuel, the smoothness and acceleration curve is improved - may not really be a pony - maybe so - but the linear quality of the acceleration on both bikes is a now notable. More so on the daily driver though. Maybe I'll play with the shimming if I find it a re-occuring thing if warm at all - so far I can't replicate at all warm - so no real complaint - an observation is all - probably happens due to the sudden drop in fuel being used. EZ (Message edited by ezblast on February 22, 2009) | ||
| Ezblast |
No - just on the intake side of the Daily rider - the Toy's DAJ prevents a splitter from being used, and its not nesc. - this exhaust delivers all the way up the line, and the toys response time is still adequate for my needs - lol - perhaps a 9 for touring someday - waiting for that all black puppy. EZ | ||
| Indybuell |
EZ, you can get an 09 XB9SX, and order the black plastics and wheels for her. | ||
| Ezblast |
Yes - then I'm paying a 1000 more for a bike that in Europe they are paying over 500 less for - if Buell doesn't make this bike available in the US - I may boycott them - why only give Europe the cool discount and color combos - its practically an insult to us Americans who would like to buy an inexpensive sport twin in the US made by a US company, but sorry - Europe gets the cool deal and not us? Its insulting to me, the only way I'll forgive Buell is when they give us that cool deal and minus the shipping to Europe as well! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I'm not so sure they arent cheaper in Europe just because of the weekness of the Dollar or something else along those lines. Example: We priced Mini's in England. They basically cost twice as much in England as they do in the USA. They are made in England! (actually just swap the $ for a pound sign and you have the British price or $25,000 for a Cooper S here or 25,000 pounds for a Cooper S in England). I cant imagine its somehow cheaper to be shipping products across the ocean or that Buell is somehow raping the American consumer.  | ||
| Ezblast |
Thats what bugs me - http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/253 912/432670.html?1233964993 EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Update on Yost Tube on the toy - back jetted to 150 on the main, then for the first time I have turned the DAJ from its idle position to its number 1 position - the fueling now is very balanced and no detonation at WOT going up hill - so now I'm extremely happy - since the only thing that used to prevent that was Boost or really cold days - lol EZ | ||
| Thumpe |
EZ, Where is the DAJ on the top side of the carb? Can it be mounted on the bottom side of the carb to allow the splitter to be used. | ||
| Indybuell |
EZ, concur on the idea Buell should be passing the awesomeness to us on the blacked out CityX. I have pleaded the case with two local Buell dealers. | ||
| Ezblast |
I have the DAJ in the 10 o clock position, but it shows it could as easily be mounted in the 7 or 4 o clock position as well. I really feel a splitter isn't needed with the DAJ because of the way it delvers fuel - acting like a secondary jet increasing initial response. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
I want this! For long distant riding it would be perfect! My singles would keep on doing what they do best - bomb around local twisties, and in city duty,but this puppy would be perfect for doing the 300 to 600 mile trips I want to put more of into my life.  EZ | ||
| Thumpe |
EZ, I think i'd give it a try at part throttle with better fuel delivery at a higher volume sounds better to me! | ||
| Thumpe |
EZ, The CityX is a sweet ride!! | ||
| Ezblast |
Yeah - thats why I'm bringing up this topic on the Quick board - Someone needs to wake up EB to the sales he is loosing, by not selling such a bike at such a price here. EZ | ||
| Indybuell |
Quick Question. I switched out my 42/170 jetting with 48/175. I did not however shim the needle or adjust the air idle screw. The bike seams to be running great. Is this ok, or do I really need to do the other two adjustments? I also installed my new Dan Boot! | ||
| Ezblast |
Your off the line acceleration will improve a lot with the shimming, and yes, I would adjust the air screw also. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
48  |
