| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
Concur! Use the lower front stock mounting hardware for exhaust longevity. EZ | ||
| Fast1075 |
Metal termites  got after the "quiet module inset" on mine...now it has more THUMP  | ||
| Dummkauf |
Ok, I've bugged everyone on here with exhaust questions in the past about the different exhausts and I am ready to order my necessary parts this weekend. I am planning on getting a D&D exhaust from here http://www.hyperformanceparts.com/catalog/p126/D-D -Full-System-Exhaust-Buell-Blast/product_info.html My question now is, does anyone have any reason why I should NOT order it from hyperformanceparts.com? Either problems with the company or know of it for sale cheaper elsewhere(I'm looking for a new exhaust). Also, I've been searching the web and the only jet kits I've found for the blast run between $80-$90. http://www.starcycle-usa.com/servlet/Detail?no=152 37 I've found this one at Star Cycle, however I'm also curious if this is the right price range or can these kits be found for less? Plus is the Stage 1 what I should be looking for, Other than my new exhaust(and the handle bars/mirrors) the bike is completely stock, which from looking around this site I think a stage 1 is what I would need. I just want to make sure this is what I need before I drop a $100 on it. (Message edited by dummkauf on February 14, 2009) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Do Not buy a jet kit. Jets are $3-$6 each and you'll only need 2. That'll save you about $80. The kits have some merit, but only if you're going to spend a lot of time tuning or have a dyno to tune it on. Another down side is there is no advice we can give you on the kit. You'll be on your own to figure out the jetting. No opinion on exhaust retailer (except have you checked Badwebs sponsors). | ||
| Dummkauf |
Gearheaderiko, I realize you can't tell me exactly how to re-jet my carb, but my questioin then is, how do I know which 2 I should buy? | ||
| Ezblast |
A D&D - without radical intake - 45/175, shim needle 0.05. That should put you close to perfect. EZ | ||
| Dummkauf |
Thanks EZ! You may have to excuse my ignorance on this subject, but are jets and needles pretty much universal? So far I've been searching exclusively for jets for a Buell Blast, and all I've found are the full kits, so my question is would 45/175 jets be all I need to look for or are there specific ones for the Blast carburator I need? I'm thinking I just need to find jets for a keihin carb and that there's nothing unique about the Blast carbs? | ||
| Dummkauf |
Oh, and the intake is the stock airbox, so nohting too radical there. | ||
| Dummkauf |
So these should do it? Pilot: http://www.bobscycle.com/browse.cfm/4,108534.html Main: http://www.bobscycle.com/browse.cfm/4,16820.html?AFF=690FGL Can't make this a link since it has a "," in the URL, and this site uses that in the code for displaying links, which screws up the link. Plus Bob's is local so I can just drive over and pick them up  (Message edited by dummkauf on February 14, 2009) (Message edited by dummkauf on February 14, 2009) | ||
| Ezblast |
Any Harley shop should have them - part numbers are listed in the top of the Carburetor section - but if you walk in and ask for a 45 primary, and a 175 main - for a CV Kehin 40 carb - they will probably give you the correct jets - besides it says the jet size right on the jet. EZ | ||
| Dummkauf |
Sounds good, thanks for the info EZ....So now it's time to order up the exhaust and take a quick trip to the Harley dealer for jets and the free tire pressure gauge I've been hearing about. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The jets must be for a Keihin CV carb, not the old style Keihin carb (important to know if ordering). Otherwise the same jets fit the 'Big Twin', Sportster or Blast carbs (basically every non fuel injected Harley since 1989!). The slow jets pictured at Bobs site do not look like what you need. Its best if wherever you shop has a Harley/Buell listing. It'll avoid confusion and wrong parts. The picture might just be wrong too. | ||
| Dummkauf |
Yeah, I think I'm gonna hit the local harley shop on Monday over my lunch break. Also, I've gone through the vendor section of badweb but I am not seeing anything that carries D&D exhausts. I've done a bit of googling on hyperformanceparts.com and have decided based on numerous site's I've seen complaining about them being a scam that I will not be doing business with them. I'm going to call D&D's sales line tomorrow(they apparently don't do online sales), but I'm curious if anyone knows of any other places that sell the D&D's online? All that turns up on google is hyperformanceparts.com | ||
| Ezblast |
If you google D&D exhaust for sale - you'll find a world of listings - if you google Modified Buell Blast you'll find me! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on February 15, 2009) | ||
| Dummkauf |
I've been to your site before EZ, and some day my Blast will be that customized, however I need a second bike to use as my daily driver first and I also have a bit of learning to do prior to any major overhauls(if you haven't guessed yet) I may have to respectfully disagree on the world of listings for the D&D. Just searching for D&D exhausts generates a world of listings, but not really for anything that will fit a Blast.....add "Buell Blast" to that search and it brings up mainly hyperformance and an ebay listing that appears to be from the same guy running hyperformance. On the plus side I browsed through more google search pages, and about 8 pages deep I found pipecity.com, which had the D&D exhaust for $269 as opposed to $309 I've been seeing and free shipping for all orders over $100 and an additional google search on pipecity.com revealed nothing but good comments. So the D&D has now been ordered, in the mean time I need to swing by the local HD dealer for some jets and pressure gauge and I'll be sure to share some pics with you all when it's finally installed and running. I've been putting this off too long and the snow in my yard has finally mostly all melted away and I want to have the bike back up and running as soon as MN weather allows me to. Thanks again for all the info, it is greatly appreciated!!! | ||
| Ezblast |
True - though Sporttwin sells them. Your going to love the sound and bottom end of that exhaust - and its ease of maintenance. EZ | ||
| Dummkauf |
Another question for the forum, If I were so inclined to wrap the exhaust header on my new D&D setup, what size wrap would I need. I'm seeing it for sale in 50ft roles of 1 1/6" & 2 1/6" widths. Is there any real advantage to wider vs. thinner wrap, or is this just more of a personal preference? I'm still debating but am pretty sure I want to wrap it, are there any gotchas to be aware of when wrapping? From what I've seen online it's just a matter of wrapping it as tightly as possible and I've seen numerous sites suggesting that the wrap be painted with a high temp exhaust paint to help protect it, is this common? I've seen wrapped pipes on many show bikes, and I've never seen them painted, but I seriously doubt those bikes get ridden as much as my Blast do either. And I realize I don't exactly need heat shielding for a Blast's exhaust system, I just like the look of a wrapped pipe on some bikes, and I think it would look cool on the Blast. Anyone out there with a wrapped D&D system that would be willing to share a pic? I did a search of BadWeb and have seen a few wrapped exhausts, but no D&D's  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The size of the wrap is personal preference. The instructions will probably say to soak the wrap in water before wrapping. Do it. It'll make for a tighter neater wrap. Painting will help protect it, but with or without paint it will fade and will need a repaint (or just look weathered if not painted). As you wrap near the exhaust flange (that bolts to the head), it should be as close as possible and you'll need something on the thin side to secure it, otherwise the wrap clamp will get in the way. A gap there may also be more prone to cracking (theoretical). Wrap comes in several colours. Safety wire can help hold it in place if it starts to become ragged or in tight spots where you're unsure if it will hold. The safety wire will be almost invisible and can be painted over. | ||
| Dummkauf |
Thanks for the response I've been reading up on the "theoritical" cracking of headers caused by header wraps. Does anyone here have any actual experience with header life being shortened due to wrapping them? I'm not looking for the "my knowledgeable friend told me so" replies, as I have found hundreds of those online through doing a few google searches. I'm looking for input from folks who have actually been running wrapped headers as I can not seem to find any actual studies done on the subject. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Most important thing I forgot: Wear gloves, the latex kind doctors use. Metal flakes will get everywhere. And when wet its a lot like paper mache or wrapping a cast. I use header wrap on 2 of my bikes. The RaceBlast has had wrap on for at least 5000 miles. It came with the exhaust and I'm sure it was put on dry and I've re wrapped it with the same 'tape' twice. Never painted and its a little ragged for wear. No cracking noted. The FXSTB has also had wrap on it for probably 5000+ miles. Its been painted and repainted several times. Washing, wear and rain will fade it and it will wear/fray quickly if the exhaust contacts other frame or engine parts. No cracking noted, but the exhaust is also ceramic coated (which, in theory, could also increase or decrease cracking). I'm not an engineer or scientist but I've seen enough exhausts fracture because of overheating and cracks. Educated types may form a better argument for or against the cracking theory. If wrap keeps the heat in, then it could overheat the pipe beyond design. If the pipe is over engineered, then it may not be a problem. I can tell you that you can put your hand directly on the exhaust shortly after shutting the bike down without getting burned (but you wouldnt want to hold it there). | ||
| Fast1075 |
The only problem I have seen with header wrap is the tendency for the pipe to rust. I would advise to be sure the pipe is fully dried out after exposure to heavy water contact such as washing the bike...just crank it up and dry out the pipe... Most exhaust pipe cracks happen due to improper installation or worn attachment hardware...causing stress on the pipe. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I was going to mention it, but when you wash your bike and get the exhaust all wet, if you start the bike to warm it up and dry out the exhaust, you'll get a nice fine mist all over your nice clean body panels and chrome (if any)! It takes awhile for the exhaust to dry (or stop steaming). If possible I'd cover it in plastic when washing. 5000 miles isnt really a long term test. Enough miles to know it isnt going to happen right away, but not enough to know long term results. The exhausts also rarely see rain, mostly because it rarely rains here. | ||
| Fast1075 |
Speaking of exhausts...I was at my local Buell shop Saturday for the shindig they were throwing (and the free food!)..I saw a Blast with a Pro Series exhaust...the first one I have seen in person...it sounded better than my exhaust, but was in HORRIBLE condition due to rust...is there a stronger word than HORRIBLE??? Glad mine is stainless and aluminum... Even worse, I tried to strike up a conversation with the young fellow and tell him of blasting goodness...but it did no good...complete airhead...absolute apathy...the torque was not with him. | ||
| Dummkauf |
Yeah, I'm not too concerned about the moisture factor since I rarely ride my bike for 5 minutes and then turn it off, plus it doesn't take much to heat that pipe up enough to be able to burn you either way, I'm thinking maybe a minute or 2 of running, so a good 10 minutes should be more than enough to dry the wrap out. Plus I've been seeing some recommended clear silicone spray being sold with wrap to help protect it. Is this stuff worth it or is it just a marketing gimmick? I'm just trying to sort out the facts from the BS on this subject. So far everything I've seen on other forums are people saying wrap will cause my header to crack because it retains heat and causes the metal to get hotter than it was designed to get, but then those same people suggest ceramic coating the header instead. Am I missing something here....isn't a ceramic coating basically just the modern version of wrapping??? From my understanding the ceramic coating is meant to help the header retain heat, thus keeping gases hotter, which in turn = better flow, which is the exact same thing wrap does. This seems like the folks selling ceramic coatings have done a very good marketing job to me. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
It will smoke for a good long time! 10 minutes should be sufficient though. Havent seen the clear silicone spray but I have my doubts. Ceramic coating is the only thing I've seen that keeps its appearance. Chrome does to a degree, but its high maintenance and will still 'blue' (or gold) easily. The ceramic coating is usually inside the pipe as well as outside, protecting both sides of the pipe, fwiw. Ceramic coating is better for longevity and appearance. $150 or less. Wrapping is also a fairly modern approach, but it gives and "old school" look. $50 for wrap. $15 for paint (if used) + time spent and maintenance. Not necessarily cheaper in the long run. Choose the look you like best. The wrap I got for the raceBlast was free, so I used it. Besides the alleged 'flow' benefits, it gives the advantage of being able to work on a hot engine with less of a chance to get burned. Less chance of burning the riders gear too. The FXSTB I ceramic coated for colour longevity and durability. I wrapped it because I like the look and it doubles as a heat shield. Engine performance was not in the equation. I took the risk on cracking even though its my 'road' bike. | ||
| Dummkauf |
Do the wraps actually make the pipe cool enough to grab onto without burning your hand? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes, in manner of speaking. Not while its running and you wouldnt want to hold onto it. I'm sure if you ran a couple hours at highway speeds in 100 degree weather, it'd be a risky thing to do. The unwrapped section would still be very hot (of course!). In short, I would feel it risk free to touch the pipe after shutting it down. Done it. It is considerably 'less hot'. | ||
| Dummkauf |
Ok, headers sitting downstairs freshly wrapped and drying out. Tomorrow I'll be putting a few coats of the DEI Hi-Temp silicone coating on it but I have another question about the exhaust installation. I fortunatley looked at my manual and realized I needed an exhaust gasket and retaining clip, so I ran up to harley this afternoon and picked the pieces up. After seeing the exhaust gasket I realized why my exhaust port looked so smashed up....I didn't pull the old smashed up gasket out yet  Looking at the new gasket, it appears to be tapered. So when I install the new gasket should the fat end of the gasket go into the exhaust port first or would it go the other way? | ||
| Dummkauf |
I also have a question about the retaining clip. The new one I got doesn't fit the D&D header, but comparing the D&D header to the stock exhaust it looks like the D&D has more has a lip built into that would indicate that the clip is not needed. Does anyone know if this is correct? | ||
| Ezblast |
A stock clip should fit - that header is very similar to the pro-series in dimensions. EZ |
