| Author | Message | ||
     Swampy |
Ruel, the Buell battery is an AGM battery, I just went to a Battery Plus store to set up an account with a guy I work with to start selling the AGM batteries for snowmobiles and ATVs and motorcycles. Go look on the Oddessy battery website as the Buell factory battery is the same technology. They are talking about a 12 service life. Both Blasts have the original batteries, 8 years and counting. | ||
| Robi |
Status: Seeing a leak from the inspection cover. Called HD, they said bring it up at your earliest convenience. Went up Saturday morning. The guy who told me to come up thought it would be a quick gasket swap. The technician informed him that mine has the old gasket and cover, and that part of the frame has to come off when you do it. He said he didn’t swap it because they didn’t have it in stock when the originally had my bike. The other guy asked, “can’t you double ‘em up?” Silently I’m thinking, “no Robi. Don’t you dare let these people ‘double up’ a gasket instead of fixing it for real.” Turns out, they don’t have the new cover in stock, so I made the hour ride for naught. Normally I wouldn’t have an issue with taking a ride, but it was early on a Saturday (sleep in day), and I froze my arse off (still learning the cold/warm ride thing). He said they will order the new part and that he would check with the manager to see if I would have to pay for the installation of the new cover, since it was “bad part” not a “bad job.” I said if that’s the case, I’ll do it myself. The whole exchange was friendly. When I talk with the dealer, I don’t mention this website, nor do I mention that from what I’ve read, the old rubber gaskets don’t really “go bad.” Also, I mentioned that while the shifting into first thing reduced in frequency since they readjusted the clutch, it still did it a couple of times. In fact it happened on the way there. They said, “all these bikes do that.” Interestingly, when I took the arm off, there were no washers on the bolts that hold the arm on. I called and told them I didn’t get the washers. HD: “Oh, well does it call for washers?” Me: “Yes, it’s on page 2-55 of the manual.” HD: “Well how do we know it had washers on there before?” Me: “Because it did. There was also part of a broken Craftsman tool in there, which I never saw before.” They are going to mail me more washers. Good news. Getting the arm off was a snap. It does get easier with time. On a side note, I wish I would be more vocal. When I originally got the bike back from the rotor assembly and clutch adjustment, the shift lever was tight, but was not seated all the way. It was not flush with the splined collar. And it was set so high the person riding must have Ronald McDonald shoes on. I didn’t say anything. When I took the cover off this weekend, I noticed there were two scratches on it. Yet, I didn’t say anything. Come on! What the f&@*#? What’s sad is that I don’t say anything because if I ever have to go back, I don’t want service to be even worse. But on principle, I should stand my ground a bit more. I’m thinking about sending a letter to corporate Harley Davidson. Anyhow fluid is below the teeth. I see nothing wrong with the gasket. Is it possible that it is leaking from being torqued too much? Should I just switch to the new cover and gasket and be done with it? What size socket do you find fits the 3 arm bolts? The HD technician showed me a tool with a long arm and a swivel head. He said 9/16, however, I think 14 mm fits better. What do you think? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
9/16" is an oversized 14mm. Often interchangeable. If theygive you the new cover, change it. Save the old one.Sometimes the covers just leak. Over or under tightening could cause it to leak. Most dealers have very little respect for the Blast. Expect it. You'll have to jump up and down about perfection or you wont get it. Sometimes, you can say its your wifes bike (or she thinks it is) and she's very picky about it-she notices every little scratch and ding (women are better at details). | ||
| Robi |
Good call. Might need to try that in the future. Might get caught though if asked what else I ride, with follow up questions. Since this this my first foray into the motorcycle world, I might end up saying I have a flux capacitor or muffler bearings. | ||
| Ezblast |
Thats why I do all my own work now - I figure if its going to get scratched up - it might as well be me doing it! EZ | ||
| Reuel |
I change my own muffler bearings!!! Always have! I'm going to guess someone at some point overtightened the bolts on that cover if it leaks, or maybe they didn't clean it up well when they had it off. My 2001 still has the original, and I don't think it leaks. I'd have to look closely to be sure. | ||
| Swampy |
Robi, aren't you a chick? Cause if you are the picky wife thing just isn't gonna work. The cover is plastic? Plastic will warp when over-tightened. | ||
| Robi |
Gearhead - I should read more carefully, I've let my bike set on the stand for the last 24 hours waiting for the new cover, because I thought I read your post as instructing me to replace the cover anyhow. But no. They are not giving me anything. I'll have to pay for it. After reading Reuel's post, and similar ones from the past, I'm guessing I'm going to just put the one I have back on, torque as I would torque it, and see if it leaks. Correct? Swampy – No. I’m a dude. You won’t hold that against me, right? | ||
| Swampy |
Sorry Dude!  | ||
| Robi |
No sweat here. I have a weird spelling of Robi and have my dead dog as my profile picture. I get "Ms." on junk mail all the time. Hey, on the brighter side, when I get home I'm going to get to open my used saddle bags! Got them for $68 on eBay!!! And the washers they left off came in the mail (the mgr mailed them). Just need to stop by HD, get some 20W50 Syn 3 to top off the transmission (verified that's what they put in when they adjusted the clutch). Put the leg back on, and the muffler and rear wheel (different thread), and then I get to put my d_mn truck back in the garage for a few days!!! Just to verify, I'm going to put the old gasket and cover on, torquing it the way I have in the past, then see if it leaks before BUYING a new cover and gasket, right? | ||
| Ezblast |
Correct! | ||
| Robi |
Word. Didn't realize how much their Syn 3 Screaming Eagle is. $13.87 w/ tax for 1 quart. I'm sweating because I have to get $7.00 in my bank before this thing posts, but d_mn, is it always that expensive? I bought it because that's what's in there, so I figure if I'm going to just top it off, might as well get the same stuff. | ||
| Ezblast |
Mobil 1 15/50 is less and better - lol EZ | ||
| Robi |
I wouldn't be able to top off with something different though, correct? I think Swampy recommended Mobil Synthetic 20W50 throughout. That is what I'm planning once I get the bike settled down and do another regularly scheduled fluid change. Is 15/50 synthetic? Why do you prefer that over 20W50? | ||
| Johnnymac |
You can mix brands no problem. You can even mix synthetic and regular types. Heck they sell preblended synthetic/regular mixes on the shelf. I would never pay $14 for a quart of oil just because it has the Harley name on the label. What a rip off. Go to Walmart and get a quart of something else synthetic for less than half of that or, since you are just topping it off, just grab a bottle of Castrol GTX 20W50 regular for less than $3 and get the job done until you change over the oil completely. When the total change comes just use Mobile 1 20W50. If you can't find it in that weight, just use it in 15W50. My local Walmarts only seem to stock Mobile 1 in 15W50 weight and that's fine to use. | ||
| Robi |
You know, I think I'm inadvertently creating a duplicate conversation. I had the same direction regarding mixing synthetic oils in regards to the engine. Therefore, am I safe to assume that when talking about lubrication fluids on the Buell Blast, what goes for the primary engine goes for the transmission as well? Thanks for the heads up. I didn't get a chance to work on the bike last night so luckily didn't open the quart. I will stop at WalMart, pick up Mobil synthetic 20W50, and return the quart to HD tomorrow. | ||
| Swampy |
The transmission and the primary chain are the same fluid | ||
| Robi |
What about when discussing fluid for the engine? If I remember correctly, you can use the same fluid for both the engine and the transmission/primary chain, correct? My plan has been to move to Mobil Synthetic 20/50 once I get my bike settled down on a regular schedule. If I can use the same fluids for both the engine and the transmission/primary chain, and I can mix brands and synthetics with regular, can I just use the WalMart 20W50 motor oil to top off the transmission/primary? | ||
| Swampy |
Yep! | ||
| Robi |
Sweet! Also, I'll be sure to check out the sponsor's sections to price out parts in the future, especially if they deliver to my home at a cheaper price. | ||
| Reuel |
I've read a lot of info on oil stress tests. The only thing better than Mobil 1 was Amsoil, and not by much. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Do Not Use random engine oil in the transmssion/primary. Whats good for the engine is not necessarily good for the primary and you can do serious damage if you use the wrong stuff. Mixing can also be very bad. Primary rarely needs fluid added unless you have a leak. If you use the same stuff in the engine and primary that makes life simple. Just keep track of what type you use in the primary. | ||
| Reuel |
I was thinking about that transmission oil situation. I imagine if you already used something like Mobil 1 20W50, you'd be OK using Amsoil 20W50, but if you were using a hydraulic type transmission fluid (ATF, for example--I'm not sure what kind of stuff HD transmission fluid is...), adding 20W50 of any kind would probably be bad. But, it looks like Erik beat me to the punch. If the fluid level looks like it's below the teeth of the clutch, but it's really close, you should be fine. If it looks like it's half an inch or more, I suggest adding more of what it has. Or, you could save money by just draining it and putting in some Mobil 1 (or Amsoil) synthetic 20W50 (or 15W50, depending on availability). | ||
| Swampy |
I'm Wrong, don't mix oils with ATF, I don't think HD Sportrans Fluid is ATF though. | ||
| Robi |
Please forgive me if I sound like an idiot. My mother has so far. I need to get some terminology straight. When it comes to lubrication fluids, there are only 2 places for it: 1. The engine 2. The transmission/primary, which are 2 separate things technically, but use the same source/bucket of fluid. Is this correct? It seems like there are 2 camps: Camp 1. Use same fluids in both the (1) engine and (2) transmission/primary. Camp 2. Use oil in the (1) engine but use transmission lubricant in the (2) transmission/primary? Is this correct? Or am I misinterpreting everyone because of my lapse in understanding the terminology? Sorry if I've gotten this thread off track talking about fluids, but I just want to make sure. Never-the-less, here's my update: Bike is back together. Turns out I had some HD Syn3 Screaming Eagle left over from the previous owner. I know it's not optimal to use fluid that's been sitting because of moisture, but the good news is that WalMart was out of SuperTech 20/50. I went home with the intention of using the SuperTech 20/50 I had left to top the transmission/primary off (went to get extra just in case), but I ended up finding the Syn3 Screaming Eagle. I topped it off. Torqued the inspection cover to specs best I could. I say best I could because I have a big lever torque wrench borrowed from the neighbor. I used some adapters to fit the hex, and eye balled between the 5 and 10 marker. Took it for a spin. So far no leaks. Also, it shifts better. HD kept saying, "these bikes do that." Thanks guys. I think because they know I'm broke they really don't care much. If anyone's is keeping a tally (which I am), here are the things that have disgruntled me about the HD dealer. And I'll go ahead and say which one it is: AD Farrow, Northstar on Route 36. in Columbus, OH (might be Delaware, OH, or Sunbury, OH - either way, it's just off I-71 north of Columbus proper): 1. When I got it. Shifter lever was not fully on 2. Corners of the seat are torn (more than they were), as if it was just thrown/rubbed on the ground. 3. they didn't replace the 3 washers that hold the foot peg arm 4. primary inspection cover leaked (though it still might leak). 5. there was a broken piece of tool inside the bike where the 3 foot peg bolts are (I've deduced it is part of a universal) 6. primary inspection cover is scratched 7. the clutch was not adjusted properly 8. they told me to come up when the employee didn't know what work was involved and the part was not in stock (not such a big deal, but I'm perturbed). 9. their fervent advocacy that "these bikes just shift like that" All in all, I was worried about having to go back to them because they are the only Buell show in town (that I know of, I will start looking), but now I fully appreciate EZ's encouragement to do just do the darn sh't myself. Another question: I adjusted the primary tensioner. It seemed tight as sh't. Would they have messed with that when they adjusted the clutch? When I loosened it, then tightened it, until I felt it touch, I at first didn't feel anything. It seemed I had to tighten it more than last time. Is this normal? Does anyone suspect damage? Is it possible that the shoe was left out? (have to ask considering everything else). Would it operate w/o the shoe? I ultimately convinced myself I felt it touch. I started it, did the whirring sound test, then backed it off 7 flats. I have some other questions but will look for the appropriate threads to research then ask. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I'll take these 2 questions: "When it comes to lubrication fluids, there are only 2 places for it: 1. The engine 2. The transmission/primary, which are 2 separate things technically, but use the same source/bucket of fluid. Is this correct? Yes. It seems like there are 2 camps: Camp 1. Use same fluids in both the (1) engine and (2) transmission/primary. Camp 2. Use oil in the (1) engine but use transmission lubricant in the (2) transmission/primary?" Yes!.... Some engine oils can be use in both-almost always synthetic. (Harley Davidson synthetic is one example). Some cannot. There are many different types of engine oil and you should be sure to know which ones will work in both. Non synthetic (dino) engine oils should not be used in the trans/primary. Some oils contains detergents and other chemicals bad for the clutch plates, stator and bearings/bushings. You can add just about any 'oil' willynilly (technical term) to the engine without permanent risk to the engine that cant be solved by just changing the oil. The trans/primary isnt that way. Permanent damage can result. Know what works in there and only add the same to it (whether it be compatible engine oil or trans/primary fluid). | ||
| Robi |
Got it. Thank you. | ||
| Reuel |
Robi! Sounds like your dealer works just like the Seaford HD/Buell dealer in Delaware! Scratched up my seat, bent the bracket that holds the air scoop, put the gas tank cover on crooked, didn't tighten down the muffler bolts, used the wrong bolt, which subsequently broke twice. Doesn't it suck that a dealer does so much worse a job than an inexperienced shade tree mechanic like me? | ||
| Robi |
I still would like to have a mechanic I could trust. Someone in my class just told me her boyfriend rides with someone who owns a shop. She's going to look into it. Keeping my fingers crossed. | ||
| Fast1075 |
I haven't taken the time to research the threads...but I think Buellistic brought up the idea that the primary chain adjuster is not a tension adjustment, but rather a limiter...I completely agree after seeing it myself...the lower shoe tensioner spring is a LOT stronger than I thought it would be...the adjuster bolt limits the downward travel... |
